Motor Troubleshooting
- Thread starter Alastor
- Start date
To tell you a little more details i was minding my own business riding and suddenly i was starting to loose power.To the time that the hob motor was stack thinking that i had regeneration on all the time.I disconnected the regen system in case it was broken and still the same.Only when i removed the hall sensor cable the bike rolled normal again.Ofc the motor is not running at the moment at all.
So when i got home i checked the hall sensor wires and connections all seem normal with my multimeter.
When i remove the hall sensor cable and trying to move the bicycle it kinda trying to turn but stops.That means that i got some burned hall sensors inside my motor ?
Is there a way to make my Lyen 12fet sensor controller work like a senselessness ?
Thanks in advance
So when i got home i checked the hall sensor wires and connections all seem normal with my multimeter.
When i remove the hall sensor cable and trying to move the bicycle it kinda trying to turn but stops.That means that i got some burned hall sensors inside my motor ?
Is there a way to make my Lyen 12fet sensor controller work like a senselessness ?
Thanks in advance
When i have the hall sensor wire the motor is not doing anything even if i try to give it some speed first.When i don't have the hall sensor cable on and i pedal then i open the throttle the motor is stops like someone engaged the regeneration.
Any suggestions ?
I use Crystalyte 3525 and Lyen 12fef 4110 controller
Any suggestions ?
I use Crystalyte 3525 and Lyen 12fef 4110 controller
I did some more measurements to see the voltage produced by the hall sensors while the wheel is spinning and one of them is dead 
I found out a short on one cable.That probably killed one of the sensors Poor sensor.Anyone have an idea where to find crystalyte sensors ? or i can use wtv sensor i like ?
I found out a short on one cable.That probably killed one of the sensors
Poor sensor.Anyone have an idea where to find crystalyte sensors ? or i can use wtv sensor i like ?wugambino said:
Thanks for the link mate.Unfortunately i only have sensor controllers
I was wondering if i can program my sensored controller to work like a sensorless one is that possible or the controller is just missing the sensorless chip ?
Today i manage to remove the bolts and take a look inside the motor she is badly beaten .Two of the phase wires are melted and shorted as well as three of the hall sensor wires.
I was intrigued to open the cover due to the fact that the motor was jammed while i was rotating the wheel backwards.I repaired the wires insulated them manage to re arrange them under the barring connected everything and the motor as expected was not working.....This has to do with the fact that one hall sensor is dead probably.
Is there a way to tell if my motor is dead without the use of a sensor-less controller ?
When i hit the throttle the motor is trying to spin but it halts.There is current going from the battery to the controller and the CA reads some wattage.
P.S.
After the repair i did connected the CA hall wires and phase and i wanted to see if the motor will get any voltage while pedalling.The CA get's power and the jamming on the wheel is no more.
she is badly beaten .Two of the phase wires are melted and shorted as well as three of the hall sensor wires.I was intrigued to open the cover due to the fact that the motor was jammed while i was rotating the wheel backwards.I repaired the wires insulated them manage to re arrange them under the barring connected everything and the motor as expected was not working.....This has to do with the fact that one hall sensor is dead probably.
Is there a way to tell if my motor is dead without the use of a sensor-less controller ?
When i hit the throttle the motor is trying to spin but it halts.There is current going from the battery to the controller and the CA reads some wattage.
P.S.
After the repair i did connected the CA hall wires and phase and i wanted to see if the motor will get any voltage while pedalling.The CA get's power and the jamming on the wheel is no more.
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dogman dan
1 PW
I did sound more like shorted phases than shorted halls to me. Unfortunately, if phases short while you have the controller running, it often blows the controller. So you might find you have that problem too now. And while hot enough to melt phase wires, the halls could croak along with that wire.
dogman dan
1 PW
There should be something in the wiki that details how to test halls function.
The short version is get a 5v power source like a few flashlight batteries, and put 5v in the red wire and out the black. Then with a voltmeter, look for voltage on the black and and colored wires as you rotate the wheel. So - on black, + on the green, and you should see 5v display on the voltmeter turning on and off with a good hall.
Phases are easy, unplug everything, and the motor should resist a little, if shorted, they resist a lot. Gearmotors, turn the motor backwards to test.
The short version is get a 5v power source like a few flashlight batteries, and put 5v in the red wire and out the black. Then with a voltmeter, look for voltage on the black and and colored wires as you rotate the wheel. So - on black, + on the green, and you should see 5v display on the voltmeter turning on and off with a good hall.
Phases are easy, unplug everything, and the motor should resist a little, if shorted, they resist a lot. Gearmotors, turn the motor backwards to test.
dogman said:
Thanks man ,
For the hall sensors i did that the other day and one of the sensors is dead it gets 0.02V and the good ones get 4.5 to 5v.
I didn't know that testing the phase wires is so easy....There is no resistance on the wheel at the moment but you are right when the wires where shorted i was getting a hell lot of resistance like i had regen on.
Change to sensorless and upgrade my phase wires so they can take the little extra juice or keep the hall sensors ?Is it possible because one of my torque arms had fail that day the wires got all spaghetti in the motor ? Or its typical in some point the wires to get snap and turn like that ?
P.S.
Damn Crystalyte put some hex or alen bolts on the damn motor covers omg
dogman dan
1 PW
When your axle rotated, likely you cut the phase wires and got a short then. But problems often come more than one at a time.
Phase shorts can easily blow your controller, so you may still be in for some spending.
Phase shorts can easily blow your controller, so you may still be in for some spending.
jazzon
1 mW
E-Fuel said:
Buy a gear puller like this: http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W137P-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B000V4FIRK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380151176&sr=8-5&keywords=gear+puller+6
You can see this video, this will help you how to use it: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30211&p=436758
Good luck!
E-Fuel said:
Yes you need a gear puller to do so.I only managed to remove the disk brake cover side witch dose not require the special tool.I repaired the phase wires this way but if you have damaged hall sensors as well you need the gear tool to get to them safely.
Question out of the blue.....is it bad if i don't buy this gear tool and install new hall sensors on the other side of the motor ? is it going to work ?
Thanks
P.S.
I think i will get one because it really hurts to pull the motor outside without one......
jazzon
1 mW
At 15$ ship incl. is almost an investment.
dogman dan
1 PW
The puller is worth it, you only need the very cheap version. But you can get covers off other ways. Screwdrivers and such, with some wood blocks added when the gap gets big can work. Easy to damage stuff that way though.
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