MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

Korpin the 45Amps you are talking about is battery amps and has nothing to do with phase wires.
45DC amps is what flows from battery to controller. Phase amps is what flows from controller to motor.
People set their phase amps from 1,5x to 4x the DC current and if you set higher phase amps this means better acceleration/better torque and this is what heats up the motor/phase wires.

If you do go 45DC amps and set phase amps 45*3=135Phase amps I dont think you will have problems with stock wires.
Keep in mind that I had 400Phase amps with stock wires in the video, and it did survive during the tests.
Anyway, it is HPC that are building your bike, right? They should give you advice on all the things I mentioned above.
 
Allex said:
Korpin the 45Amps you are talking about is battery amps and has nothing to do with phase wires.
45DC amps is what flows from battery to controller. Phase amps is what flows from controller to motor.
People set their phase amps from 1,5x to 4x the DC current and if you set higher phase amps this means better acceleration/better torque and this is what heats up the motor/phase wires.

If you do go 45DC amps and set phase amps 45*3=135Phase amps I dont think you will have problems with stock wires.
Keep in mind that I had 400Phase amps with stock wires in the video, and it did survive during the tests.
Anyway, it is HPC that are building your bike, right? They should give you advice on all the things I mentioned above.

thanks allex I always get those mixed up....here are some photos of my build almost done
 

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I think panasonic bought sanyo batteries so they are owned by the same owner, probably same batteries AFAIK.
 
Allex said:
But Rick, you mentioned the correct motor, 4t it was :)

Yes I did, but I initially reported that you had went 115km/H with the 4T when it was the 5403. But after Ecycler asked me to confirm, I realized I had quoted the wrong motor. Oh well, my bad, with so much data out there, I am surprised I don't do this more often. BTW, did your TC3080 arrive?
 
korpin said:
Allex said:
Korpin the 45Amps you are talking about is battery amps and has nothing to do with phase wires.
45DC amps is what flows from battery to controller. Phase amps is what flows from controller to motor.
People set their phase amps from 1,5x to 4x the DC current and if you set higher phase amps this means better acceleration/better torque and this is what heats up the motor/phase wires.

If you do go 45DC amps and set phase amps 45*3=135Phase amps I dont think you will have problems with stock wires.
Keep in mind that I had 400Phase amps with stock wires in the video, and it did survive during the tests.
Anyway, it is HPC that are building your bike, right? They should give you advice on all the things I mentioned above.

thanks allex I always get those mixed up....here are some photos of my build almost done

I forgot that I can control Phase to DC amp ration on the fly. That means 75 DC amps will eqaul 300 Phase, that ought to wakes things up with virtually no volt sag from the pack :mrgreen:
 
Rix said:
Allex said:
But Rick, you mentioned the correct motor, 4t it was :)

Yes I did, but I initially reported that you had went 115km/H with the 4T when it was the 5403. But after Ecycler asked me to confirm, I realized I had quoted the wrong motor. Oh well, my bad, with so much data out there, I am surprised I don't do this more often. BTW, did your TC3080 arrive?

Yeah, thx for that Rick!
Here is some hub porn:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=76492
file.php
 
Hey folks...there seems to be a lot of great discussion on the MXUS motor in this thread, and I am still trying to catch up on all the discussion. I am searching for a CAD drawing of the MXUS. Would anyone happen to have one by any chance? If so, could please post a link to it? I hope to build a Raptor with the MXUS very soon, and would like to know where I would run into issues with the rear disk calipers or not or what I would need to make it work. I believe the MXUS dropout width is 142 mm, and the Raptor dropout is 155 mm. Theoretically, I shouldn't have any issues after adding few spacers, but reality will probably be something completely different... :shock:

EDIT: I should've taken the time to go through all the pages. I think i've found what I was looking for. I am attaching it after some editing for ease of readability. I am not sure if this is the latest version though..still digging for info.

file.php
 

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MXUS 4T/ Adaptto Midi/ 86 volts nominal runs smooth and quiet! loudest thing on bike is rear cassette when it is freewheeling!
 

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korpin said:
MXUS 4T/ Adaptto Midi/ 86 volts nominal runs smooth and quiet! loudest thing on bike is rear cassette when it is freewheeling!

Very Nice Korp, hows it handle compared to the Phasor?
 
Rix said:
korpin said:
MXUS 4T/ Adaptto Midi/ 86 volts nominal runs smooth and quiet! loudest thing on bike is rear cassette when it is freewheeling!

Very Nice Korp, hows it handle compared to the Phasor?

right now shitty....even at only 30-35 battery amps and 71 phase amps and 86-96 volts AND running on flat ground at only 30-35 mph the motor is blazing hot! any ideas????

i included photo of power profile
 

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V3?
----------------------------
Edit: Wow!!!! I just found out there is a V3 for this motor, good stuff. Bent magnets, axle upgrade, 6 halls.

Good stuff!!!!

If I was to buy a V3 motor, I'd buy a 2T but since that is not available, I'd settle for a 3T and lace it to a 17" motorcycle rim, perhaps a Holmes Hobby rim.

I might have to sell my modified V2 4T and buy a V3 3T and modify it.

That FerroFluid Justin sells has peaked my interest, its a little pricey but the thing is, you know its legit and the claims are solid. So to pay a premium is alright in my books, better then my money going overseas to some shady online merchant that might sell you toner instead of the real deal.
 
korpin said:
Allex said:
You motor settings are prolly all wrong, check adaptto thread.

another HPC botched job....sent you PM before i saw this

Seems to be your luck, you bought your Phasor frame about the same time I got my Bomber in 2012, it took almost a year for HPC to get that up and going for you, then nothing but problems for the following year. Then you sold that bike for this about the time you got all the bugs worked out. I hope its not the same for this bike.
 
Rix said:
korpin said:
Allex said:
You motor settings are prolly all wrong, check adaptto thread.

another HPC botched job....sent you PM before i saw this

Seems to be your luck, you bought your Phasor frame about the same time I got my Bomber in 2012, it took almost a year for HPC to get that up and going for you, then nothing but problems for the following year. Then you sold that bike for this about the time you got all the bugs worked out. I hope its not the same for this bike.

went over the software with HPC its running better now....looks like Kinaye Motorsports sent me a 5T instead of a 4T like motor report said....it can get up to 42 but no more no matter how many amps I put thru it and I cannot put much since its a 5T and thin phase wires....anybody ever order an MXUS direct from factory?...how long did it take and shipping?...thinking of getting 4T V3 would solve a lot of issues for me
 
anybody ever order an MXUS direct from factory?...how long did it take and shipping?...thinking of getting 4T V3 would solve a lot of issues for me

I sure did order mine straight from the factory. I can not remember how long shipping took. I bought the 4T in the V2 unlaced. Bought my Crystalyte rim and spokes from ebikes.ca. I like my 4T, with my Xie-Chang (Infineon) Lyen modified 18fet at default 45A I got up to 65kph. I laced the wheel myself, it was the first time ever for me lacing a rim. And its straight as can be, I dreaded lacing, but I kept at it. Took several hours, but I learned how to do it. I didnt need a true'ing stand either, just did it on the bike once everything was in place. I modified mine with PTFE Teflon "military spec" 10AWG wire, and I ground down the sharp wire tunnel edges.

I would say it took a month of shipping. $160USD for the motor, and $135 for "Express" shipping. So $295USD in total, and this is a very very heavy motor. End of 2014 I bought it.

I would buy the version 3 in a 3T with the upgraded beefier axle, if I were to redo it now.
Then I would lace that motor in a 17" motorcycle rim from Holmes Hobby.
I'd do the same modifications, 10AWG PTFE Teflon wire, and file down the sharp edges on the axle tunnel for the wire. I bought my Teflon wire from ApexJR.com, great solid guy, out of California. Postal service messed up on a clearly written package, sent it to Melbourne AUS, when it was intended to go to Alberta Canada. We waited a couple weeks and he sent out my order again as a replacement at no cost to me. Came within a few days, a few weeks later the rerouted package arrived. So I got a 2 for 1 deal I guess. Solid solid company. Pay by the foot.
 
Allex said:
Korpin, OVS settings?

i made it 2 like you said but I could not get "---" like you said for boost settings just put them all the way up..bikes gets to 42 mph then shuts down in boost mode...works ok in normal mode about same speed
 
I'm not convinced about the curved magnets for what its worth. I used to make a lot of wind turbines from Fisher and Paykel rotors with the same layout. We used to curve the stators by hand to avoid cogging. But there was a decrease in power due to loss of flux.

My recent dyno test on Mxus V2 with FOC is exceptionally smooth with little harmoninc bounce at low or high speed. I don't think removing the small amount of cogging needs to have a physical solution inside the motor. I think its easier to do with the controller.
 
korpin said:
Allex said:
Korpin, OVS settings?

i made it 2 like you said but I could not get "---" like you said for boost settings just put them all the way up..bikes gets to 42 mph then shuts down in boost mode...works ok in normal mode about same speed


You need to pull the values down, not up. Press left until you see --- and you can set the ovs to more than 2
 
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