farmerjoe99
10 W
I think they have a MOQ of 20 now so I'm not sure you can still order one motor direct anymore...?korpin said:
There is a group buy started for the mxus v3 in the for sale new section if your interested.
MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
There is a group buy started for the mxus v3 in the for sale new section if your interested.
Rix
100 TW
Samd said:
Sam, if I am understanding this correctly, the eddy losses are higher with curved magnets?
The rectangular magnets are 3mm thick. the curved are 3,2mm thick while the airgap reamains the same and more thickness means more strength.
the bended shape feature optimal contact to the back iron (without airgap) what means the strength also grows. MXUS uses 38SH types which have very high heat stability.
All above confirmed from MXUS.
Yes, the stronger the magnets, the higher the eddy losses. But as usually these hub motors operate at low RPM, the copper losses are dominant in most operating situations so it cannot harm to have more torque output per amp in trade of a bit higher eddy losses.
i'm not sure what you exactly mean, but sounds like you mixed stator iron with magnets. because with curved magnets the flux will be higher not worse, though cogging more.
the bended shape feature optimal contact to the back iron (without airgap) what means the strength also grows. MXUS uses 38SH types which have very high heat stability.
All above confirmed from MXUS.
Rix said:
Yes, the stronger the magnets, the higher the eddy losses. But as usually these hub motors operate at low RPM, the copper losses are dominant in most operating situations so it cannot harm to have more torque output per amp in trade of a bit higher eddy losses.
Samd said:
i'm not sure what you exactly mean, but sounds like you mixed stator iron with magnets. because with curved magnets the flux will be higher not worse, though cogging more.
Rix
100 TW
Thanks for clarifying Maddin.
teslanv
1 MW
Stronger magnets also imply a lower Kv, since the Kt will increase a little. This will reduce the top speed of a given winding slightly, but as mentioned, Improve the torque per amp of phase current.
teslanv said:
check out this message straight from factory:
"Thanks for your note of our new super powerful motor . It is new upgrades of V2 .
V3 motor and cover cannot put into the V2, because V3 stator is bent , and the axle of V3 is bigger "
????if stator is "bent" to match "bent" or curved magnets how could motor be installed or removed??? UNLESS its curved on one side only??? am I missing something can anyone clue me in???
Many of these Chinese customer service reps have good intentions and are trying very hard. However, they often use "Google translate" because their english is not fluent. I don't know what they mean by "bent stator". Just know that you can't mix and match parts from the V2 and V3.
The V2 is awesome, and the V3 is better, but...costs a little more. I think the main issue that would affect a purchasing choice is...how many amps will you be running? If you know you will be running very high amps, or that you may want to run higher amps in the future?...get the V3 with the fatter phase wires installed from the factory.
The V2 is awesome, and the V3 is better, but...costs a little more. I think the main issue that would affect a purchasing choice is...how many amps will you be running? If you know you will be running very high amps, or that you may want to run higher amps in the future?...get the V3 with the fatter phase wires installed from the factory.
markz
100 TW
Upgrading/Modifying phase wires is very easy. Having a good axle is a bonus, but really how many axles on the V2 have been broken?
teslanv
1 MW
The rotor on the V2 and V3 are identical, other than (eventually) the curved magnets. You should be able to swap the V3 parts onto a V2 rotor.
teslanv
1 MW
One that I am aware of. I sent the customer a replacement axle. I believe it failed due to having a torque arm on only one side.markz said:
General rule is that you should install torque arms on both sides with this motor.
Rix
100 TW
korpin said:
:? Rather than write a detailed explanation, next time you go to HPC, have the shop show the inside hub flange like the 54xx and H40xx. You will see the difference between magnet styles. You will also understand why the 54xx has a 12 pole count and the H40 has a 23 pole count. And what ever you do, don't work on your own motor.
markz
100 TW
Well I am back to trying to find the right color combo for this motor connected to a 18fet Lyen modified Xie-Chang (Infineon) controller. Anyone know the color combo for the Halls, Phase and Throttle. I seem to have wrote it down wrong.
Is the throttle to matching the wire color?
Cuz without that, I be spending hours.
Is the throttle to matching the wire color?
Cuz without that, I be spending hours.
teslanv
1 MW
markz said:
Most likely combination:
Swap the yellow and green phase and hall sensor wires.
or just note the color of the wires on the Controller's A, B & C Phases.
From the MXUS Motor:
Phase A = GREEN
Phase B = YELLOW
Phase C = BLUE
My Xie Chang controller's are pretty much identical to Lyen's. At least the same boards.
markz
100 TW
Mine are not labelled like that, just the usual colors.
The most I've been able to get it is to do a very small short pulse by pressing two of the throttle cables together.
Otherwise every throttle combo I've used does not work.
Swapped out the throttle, tested continuity at connector.
The most I've been able to get it is to do a very small short pulse by pressing two of the throttle cables together.
Otherwise every throttle combo I've used does not work.
Swapped out the throttle, tested continuity at connector.
teslanv
1 MW
markz said:
If you open up the controller, are the phases labeled on the board? Mine are labeled "Phase A" "Phase B" and "Phase C".
markz
100 TW
teslanv said:
Ok I opened the controller up (Lyen 18fet) and A is Yellow, B is Green and C is Blue.
So I connect
MXUS Green to Lyen Yellow
MXUS Yellow to Lyen Geen
MXUS Blue to Lyen Blue
Then the halls, "Swap the yellow and green phase and hall sensor wires."
which would mean blue to blue.
Some how that sounds familiar. I hope it works, too late now at 4am. I should still order that tester machine from em3, because I got to do the same with my BMC V1 motor.
teslanv
1 MW
markz said:
That sounds exactly right.
If that combo doesn't work, I'm going to say it's a bad hall sensor.
markz
100 TW
Hmmm good point there Teslanv, good point I will have to check that out. Thanks.
Is there a way to test the hall sensors with a DMM?
My next step is to open the motor anyway. I just did a round and I get nothing, no rough running, no ccw, no cw, no spin at all. I checked continuity, checked battery to controller wires ~60V and LVC is set at 45V, checked ignition wire, halls inc. red and black wires, phase wires.
Yesterday I did get it to burp, but with the 2 pairs of the throttle wires touching. It did not spin, just a quick kinda jump, moved the bike maybe an inch or two. Thats what got me thinking its not the motor. But you might be right Teslanv on the halls.
I have no other solutions.
Is there a way to test the hall sensors with a DMM?
My next step is to open the motor anyway. I just did a round and I get nothing, no rough running, no ccw, no cw, no spin at all. I checked continuity, checked battery to controller wires ~60V and LVC is set at 45V, checked ignition wire, halls inc. red and black wires, phase wires.
Yesterday I did get it to burp, but with the 2 pairs of the throttle wires touching. It did not spin, just a quick kinda jump, moved the bike maybe an inch or two. Thats what got me thinking its not the motor. But you might be right Teslanv on the halls.
I have no other solutions.
markz said:
Yes. Run 5v to them on the red wire and make sure the black is grounded on the Hall wire harness. Then measure against ground each of the sense wires as you spin the wheel in the air. Each should fluctuate between ~.2v and ~4.2v as you spin the wheel. Do you have a spare controller to doublecheck it is not a controller issue?
Hi
Fun day
Last Monday I had to hop on my ebike to feel that the rear tyre is stuck in itself. My 4t MXUS3000 had rusted and the pieces had merged. So today I opened my ebike motor, easier than I thought it would be as past experience was a broken axle with the first geneation 35mm. This time I just did it. Se pics if you like and now it works! While removing it I did brake a little bit of the magnets but works :lol:
Fun day
Last Monday I had to hop on my ebike to feel that the rear tyre is stuck in itself. My 4t MXUS3000 had rusted and the pieces had merged. So today I opened my ebike motor, easier than I thought it would be as past experience was a broken axle with the first geneation 35mm. This time I just did it. Se pics if you like and now it works! While removing it I did brake a little bit of the magnets but works :lol:
markz
100 TW
^^^^^^^^^^^You should paint the inside.
I do and its the 60V 800W Sunwin controller.... and the battery pack is built for it too, for the LVC that is.
I did touch the pos and neg on the frames down tube for a split second. Steel frame.
Controller was hose clamped to that down tube.
Another, phase wires touched when I was trying to get the motor to burp by touching random throttle wires together, but fried a banana clip jumper wire that connected the phase wires. Its more secure now.
Guess my first action is to swap out controller.
Second action test hall sensor wires.
Third action is to open up the motor.
I did just buy five Genuine Honeywell SS41's from Lyen for $3USD/$3.90CDN each. He ships quick so they should be here by middle of next week, this being Friday and all. Mouser sells them for $2.73, but shipping is expensive. I dont know if Grin's would work.
I do and its the 60V 800W Sunwin controller.... and the battery pack is built for it too, for the LVC that is.
I did touch the pos and neg on the frames down tube for a split second. Steel frame.
Controller was hose clamped to that down tube.
Another, phase wires touched when I was trying to get the motor to burp by touching random throttle wires together, but fried a banana clip jumper wire that connected the phase wires. Its more secure now.
Guess my first action is to swap out controller.
Second action test hall sensor wires.
Third action is to open up the motor.
I did just buy five Genuine Honeywell SS41's from Lyen for $3USD/$3.90CDN each. He ships quick so they should be here by middle of next week, this being Friday and all. Mouser sells them for $2.73, but shipping is expensive. I dont know if Grin's would work.
markz
100 TW
Of note, currently when I spin the wheel, theres drag but its jittery. Throttle was taped to half throttle.
What is that an indication of?
Maybe a blown FET?
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All three hall wires go between 5V and 0V when wheel is spun.
I hope a controller swap will solve the issue, I have a sinking feeling it might.
Which means what went wrong in my $200 controller that a $20 controller is now operating the mxus motor.
And if that be the case, how does someone go about troubleshooting a defective controller.
Is it a matter of following pcb traces, testing already installed caps and fets.
Time will tell.
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I hooked up the sunwin and nothing happened. Might try my BMC V1 with the Sunwin.
I took the wheel off, and opened the mxus motor. There might have been some insulation torn at the axle, so I will go 12awg PTFE inside shaft, then 8 or 10awg at shaft exit..... instead of the 10awg PTFE from windings to controller....... which was very very tight.
I doubt the halls were the culprit. But all three are broken now, started off breaking leads off one hall which in turn broke another lead off another hall. I say f-it, already ordered a new set from Lyen, ripped out all 3 halls. I will make sure the motor is wired properly. In the meantime I will reopen Lyen 18fet and inspect AGAIN.
What is that an indication of?
Maybe a blown FET?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All three hall wires go between 5V and 0V when wheel is spun.
I hope a controller swap will solve the issue, I have a sinking feeling it might.
Which means what went wrong in my $200 controller that a $20 controller is now operating the mxus motor.
And if that be the case, how does someone go about troubleshooting a defective controller.
Is it a matter of following pcb traces, testing already installed caps and fets.
Time will tell.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hooked up the sunwin and nothing happened. Might try my BMC V1 with the Sunwin.
I took the wheel off, and opened the mxus motor. There might have been some insulation torn at the axle, so I will go 12awg PTFE inside shaft, then 8 or 10awg at shaft exit..... instead of the 10awg PTFE from windings to controller....... which was very very tight.
I doubt the halls were the culprit. But all three are broken now, started off breaking leads off one hall which in turn broke another lead off another hall. I say f-it, already ordered a new set from Lyen, ripped out all 3 halls. I will make sure the motor is wired properly. In the meantime I will reopen Lyen 18fet and inspect AGAIN.
Rix
100 TW
leffex said:Hi
Fun day
Last Monday I had to hop on my ebike to feel that the rear tyre is stuck in itself. My 4t MXUS3000 had rusted and the pieces had merged. So today I opened my ebike motor, easier than I thought it would be as past experience was a broken axle with the first geneation 35mm. This time I just did it. Se pics if you like and now it works! While removing it I did brake a little bit of the magnets but works :lol:
Lot of rust on the stator flange and magnets. venting a Boeshield T9 would prevent that.
markz
100 TW
What is a
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