My e-KMX

Beuhji said:
OK ! I have tested it all days since last weekend and the maximum voltage ripple seems to be widely better (2.12 V) than the previous build without capacitors (arround 5.3 V) ! Moreover, my new top speed is 75 km/h :D

Thank you Matt !!!

However I have some problems with bearings of the rear wheel of my KMX Tornado. There are some radial play and i doesn't remember it was already present during my firsts runs. Matt do you ever killed the rear wheel bearings of a KMX with too much power ? :|

voltageripple1.jpg


voltageripple2.jpg
Click to expand...

Nope, I have pumped 40hp though mine. Oh, wait, you are using the plastic mag wheel. Hmm, that may be the weak link in your setup..........

Matt
 
etard said:
Great build man, can't wait to see more vids! Are you getting the rear wheel loose? :mrgreen:

I love how visible you set it up to be, is this going to be a commuter or something?
Click to expand...


Yes, the final goal of this project is to take me over the 8 km between my house and my company. It must work all the year, without weather concerns. Signals and lights are very important for this very low frame.

The velomobile concept is my model ! The last step will be to make a strong, light, convenient, weatherproof and aerodynamic outer shell ! A ridiculous job ...

go-one-084.JPG
 
Bad day for my e-KMX ...

=> The flag fixing had exploded due to hard air flow
=> Front light / signals device fell due to vibrations
=> One element is inflated on my lipo battery pack

This element is softly inflated since the begining of my project and has usualy a lower voltage than others. This time he has higher voltage than others (about 0.1V higher) and the charger doesn't arrive anymore to equilibrate it. It is a Turnigy 6S 5000 mAh. Do anyone had have issues with this brand ?
 
Beuhji said:
It is a Turnigy 6S 5000 mAh. Do anyone had have issues with this brand ?
Click to expand...
All the LiPo pouch packs can puff like that. Sometimes they can be recovered, sometimes not. Most likely if it is showing a *higher* voltage then it's already shot, not recoverable, as it's internal resistance may have increased too much to be useful. If you can take the bad cell (assuming only one) out of the pack, then you could replace that cell or run that pack as only 5S, if you are not paralleling it with another 6S.
 
Beuhji said:
Unfortunately it is 6S4P pack I cannot remove this element ... Allo, Hobbycity ? :evil:

Do you think it is possible to replace this pack with a new one (the same) without hurt the others (old) packs ?
Click to expand...


Yes you can you just need to keep checking all the packs for balance and discharge voltage along the way. They will all work together well but it may take a few charges.

Tom
 
Ok all those issues are fixed, I have brought a new battery, strongly fixed the flag, and reajusted rear wheel ball bearings.

Now i will try to fix other problems like belt slipping and direction stabilization.

Matt you are again my muse ! For the belt slipping I will buy your slipper clutch for my own christmast gift if my wallet is not empty :mrgreen:

For the direction stabilization, I've seen these images of your yellow trike on your thread but i haven't seen any comments about the jack (damper ?, vérin in french) mounted between the left front wheel and the frame. Could you explain to me your constraints, if it work properly and where you have found it please ?

seatdone.jpg


batterybox2.jpg
 
OK, by waiting for my MS V3 drive with slipper clutch :p and a total rebuilding, I have installed a steering damper in order to stabilize my e-KMX at high speeds :

p1040288x.jpg

Steering damper from eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220501604857) Mouted between the frame and wheel link.

p1040300k.jpg

Crimped M8 nut.

p1040302g.jpg


p1040306.jpg


p1040308u.jpg

The machined threaded spacer I made to replace the original one. 13mm high, M8 thread
 
Looks good.

My only advice is;

Be aware that the steering link will flex quite a bit with that much rise to the link. I try to reduce the rise to the lease possible.

You will really love the difference that dampener makes. I love being able to adjust mine to suit the riding I will be doing. It allows extremely sharp handling without the twitchy steering response you would normally have.

You will really enjoy this thing above 50kph.

Matt
 
Yahhhh !!! Today, I have received a parcel from Matt ... I'm HAPPY :D ! BUT, I must buy a complete set of hexa keys with imperial standard, I cannot do anything with my metric set !!! :shock:

I would also like to thank the French customs that have kept my package hostage one month and for which I had to pay a ransom of 150 €! :x


Parts delivered with a belt and a motor sprocket, thank you Matt !


The monster's shadow MOUhaHAhahahaha !


The KMX frame mounts have threaded holes beside to fix a battery support, what a great idea but where I must find non metric screws now ...






2,54mm (1 in.) between screw rails and shaft hole is 12mm (1/2 in.) wide






This adaptor is a precision jewel !


My 38t BCD 130 chainring is very small and the chain arrive just in touch on the BCD adaptor. I will see ...


The Whiteindustry freewheel have very thick teeth ! they are stranded into chain links, I will see if it is an problem ...
 
Hi guys !

I'm not very lucky with my build ...

First I have received my V3 drive from Matt but HTD belts don't fits on the 70 teeth pulley for an unknown reason ... After testing of 4 diferent brands of HTD belts, I have found a GT2 type which fit by stretching it very strongly.

Unfortunately, it has killed the ball bearing of my Turnigy 80-100 with effect to kill my CC160HV ... I presume.

This morning, arriving to work after 11 km at a mean speed of 60km/h, the controler begins to BIPBIPBIPBIPBIP and dont want to let turn the motor anymore, I have turned it off and finished the last 500 meters by pedaling. The motor is realy hot.

After two hours of cooling, I try to turn it on, the controler emits all normal beeps, I put just a bit of throttle but motor only vibrating like he does if he have a disconected wire. I turn it off and I check the motor, it seem to be hard to turn.

A last test, I turn it on, he emits all normal beeps and just after the last beep : FLASH ! :shock: Controler smoked, the 200A fuse is fused and I want to scuicide me ... Don't understand nothing, it is realy crazy, smoked without any throttle I am damned ! :x


img20110427191059.jpg

My brand new V3 Drive and aluminium battery boxes !

p1040373i.jpg

The 200A fuse ... fused !

p1040371u.jpg
 
Sounds very similar too what happened to me...I got my Turnigy red hot wires shorted the controller still worked. The motor
was very hard ti turn, when i turned on HV160 all beeped as it should, i attempted to turn throttle and POP POP POP clear disticntive
sound of the moffsets in the HV160 blowing due to the motor being shorted. It also took out my Turnigy meter... I think my motor
was on its last legs it had suffered abuse previously, with correct gearing though i haven't been able to overheat a Turnigy 80-100
without doing silly things on big hills, normal riding they stay at a temperature you can rest your hand on continuously...

Good news for you, sort of, if your controller is toast its only 130 bucks for paid warranty...

Hope you get it sorted asap and cheap as possible..

KiM
 
I was not the belt tension that killed the motor. I run all my belts extremely tight and have never had an issue with them. The issue is those motors are really poor quality. Also, the controller died from repeatedly trying to run a shorted motor.

This is the series of events (I have seen this before); The motor over-heated, then the windings went. At that point, the controller shut down. After repeated attempts to restart a shorted motor, the FETs began shorting out in the controller. Once the FETs began shorting, the 200 amp fuse blew.

I like your setup and I am glad to see another trike convert. However, and I will say this as kindly as I can, this is why I refuse to make drive systems for these crap Turnigy motors. In stock trim, they are garbage..........

I feel really bad for your loss. That is very frustrating. I know, I have been there.

Matt
 
Thank you for your support guys !

@Recumpence : My dream of a robust, powerfull, efficient and cheap motor disappears ... You are right as usual :oops:

@AJ : It seams to be very similar indeed. I have checked the winding resistance of the motor after cooling and before to burn the controler, I have measured 0,4 Ohm between each wire, I have never measured it before, don't know if it is normal or not ... I have mounted capacitors directy on the controler, do you thnk that Castle Creation will replace it for a flat price ?

@Ypedal : Yes, I know this box is not realy suited for a controler mount, I will replace it with the same boxes I have used for the batteries.

I will dismantle motor and controler tomorrow to make a complete checkup.

Bye
 
You just need to get someone who knows how to rewind the motor and check the lamations while they do it and you will have a good motor!
 
Ok, today I have disasembled my motor to make a check up and to try to understand what appened.
=> Ball bearings are all OK
=> Just have seen a cutted winding but don't know if I do that when by disasembling the motor or before ...
=> Windings seems to have been heated but only on one side of the stator.

Matt, what are the spec of you custom Astro ? :wink:

p1040379q.jpg


p1040378.jpg

Grease expulsed from the bearings

p1040386j.jpg

Broken winding
 
Beuhji
I will give you $50 pluss shipping for that turnigy if you like.
 
The first thing I did to my 80-100 was strip it down and epoxy the windings. All it takes is one loose winding to vibrate off the stator and get torn up by the magnets and its toast. It looks to me that this is what happened with yours.Over heating the motor is never a good thing ether. Perhaps that's why the bearings are shedding there grease running to hot?

I think the two lessons learned from it all is.

One: When dealing with electric motors and controllers and something doesn't sound or feel good.The first thing to do is STOP AND DISCONNECT POWER! .

Two: The 80-100 motors really need pulling down and some QC done at home before putting them to use. Some times a small amount of clean up and small modifications can save you trouble in the long run .

I do agree that the Turnigy motors are slapped together for a price. Honestly I would pay double the price say $200 for the same motor to have it wound to a higher standard "tighter windings and a thicker gauge wire" + better quality jap bearings fitted stock. Perhaps cleaning up a few sharp edges here and there to.

Kurt
 
@Arlo1 : I'm sorry, it must costs another 50 bucks to send it to you from France, are you sure ? ;)

Humm, are the astros are less sensitive to heating or more efficient ? :?

3210, 3215, 3220, turns, what is the best choice for my KMX ?

Pfff, I have retrieved the fan that I have planned to mount on this motor ... :cry:

Thanks All :)
 
Astro motors are far more efficient and that efficiency makes them run cooler.

The size of the motor depends on how hard you want to push it. For 30mph, a 3210 is fine. For 35mph, a 3215 is best. For 40mph, you want a 3220.

I prefer a KV of 170 or so for most applications. I need to know your final gearing, though.

Matt
 
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