Hi there, i upgraded my battery from 48v 1000w to 52v 1500w battery and i assumed eventually it would blow and it has, so need a new controller to my 1000w voilamart hub. i did read you can put 2000w through that hub with no reliability issues and I've not even got to that. Just need to know what controller to plug in, i always have to solder the battery cables every time, don't mind a couple more if i know which ones to do and which controller matches? Thanks
My wheel only spins one direction with wires disatached from controller?
- Thread starter Wizzo
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markz
100 TW
Maybe Greentime EVFitting would have a 52V 40A controller for you, sensorless, trapezoidal waveform, ebraking, no regen I dont think. Be sure your battery has a BMS and note what the Amp rating is so you can purcahse suitable controller.
I have a 35A controller with a 40A battery, might not mean much of anything if the bms on the battery cuts out for lvc, but I'd rather replace my controller the battery bms.
I have a 35A controller with a 40A battery, might not mean much of anything if the bms on the battery cuts out for lvc, but I'd rather replace my controller the battery bms.
Wizzo said:
Hi ive ordered a new controller wich is much more complex than my old one. Power is going in but my multimeter is reading nothing from the red and black wire out of the 3 with the green too but thats just a senser reply to controller. I think im missing something like the antifeft and lock sysytem mite be stopping the power going to the throttle maybe? Thanks I will put some diagrams up in a min
Normally, red and black would be something like 5v (or 4.2v?) and ground? And the the throttle lever would be just a voltage divider between Vcc and ground through the green wire?
I saw that controllers specify throttle input as 0 to 4.2v, so just trying to understand what actually happens.
I saw that controllers specify throttle input as 0 to 4.2v, so just trying to understand what actually happens.
Wizzo said:
You need battery positive to go to the "electric lock" in order to turn on the controller. Usually you'd hook up some sort of ignition switch to turn it on and off. If the controller isn't on, you won't get voltage to things like your throttle.
justlooking808
100 W
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2021
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Wizzo said:
Link to your controller might help as the diagram you posted seems to be missing some stuffs or cut off.
My new controller come I wired via the colour code from battery to the throttle output 3 wires, I even bought I 3 pin throttle with same color wires but in different order so just reorganised them to match. Now the motor is trying to jump forward and back it seems PS. Its a 1000w Voilarmart hub wiring
![ATTACH]](/sphere/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2F%5BATTACH+type%3D%22full%22+alt%3D%22Screenshot_20211025-121956_Alibabacom.jpg%22%5D305343._xfImport%5B%2FATTACH%5D&hash=c3747e4b5c91ca9a9b2c9fa80da4dfa9)
picture number 1 iHave connected all the top ones the red ant anti lock red to red battery wire and the black to black battery. A B AND C To the wheel hub as colour coordinated they are. And the throttle the hall sensors going to controller are same plug an same colour coordination
I've bought a new controller for my wheel and the best I can get the wheel to do is move forward for a second then stop. Adjusting hall sensor wires I can get the wheel to just judder. I can never get it to properly even spin, other than the second then stop.
pwd
10 kW
If you've tried all possible phase cable and hall sensor combinations; then it may be time to test the motor's hall sensors and controller's phases. Ebikes.ca has some great troubleshooting videos/articles
pwd
10 kW
https://ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
Testing for Blown Mosfets
Testing for a Defective Hall Sensor
Testing for Blown Mosfets
Testing for a Defective Hall Sensor
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