Hi, i need help about a new controller.

[sadebikebuilder]

I am very frustrated. I started building an e-bike a year ago and built it with a Chinese 2000W controller that came with the 1500W kit. After the first few rides, the FETs died on that one; I didn't think it would last too long anyway.


I have a 14S12P 52V battery with a JK BMS, by the way, using LG 18650 cells.


The motor is a 1500W CSC MTX from AliExpress, which didn’t really heat up much from 2000-2200W use with the bad controller. It didn’t go above 40-45°C after a longer ride.


I bought a Votol EM50-4 controller thinking I would push about 50-60 battery amps. I assembled everything, had a lot of trouble setting it up, and after programming the poor-quality Chinese Votol software, I connected a TF100 universal display to try it out. But the controller is got cooked before the first test ride.


I took it to a professional, and they told me the processor is dead.


Now, I’ve seen the Makerbase 84100HP and Makerbase 84200HP models, along with the Makerbase 75100 and 75200, and the Flipsky 75100 and 75200.


The problem is, I don’t know what to buy anymore. I don’t have any more money to throw out the window; actually, I have no more than 100 Euros, maybe 120 Euros left.


Will my bike work properly with any controller that is not a BAC2000, which costs more than the whole thing?


Will the Makerbase 84100HP fail on me?


Are there any better alternatives?


I want to push about 3500W peak through my motor on a 14S setup and don’t want throttle lag. I also want it to be programmable and have built-in Bluetooth or an option for a BT module.
i also am a little confused about phase and battery amps but i think i need about 60battery amps because my battery can handle that much continuous


Thank you!

 

[sadebikebuilder]

I am very frustrated. I started building an e-bike a year ago and built it with a Chinese 2000W controller that came with the 1500W kit. After the first few rides, the FETs died on that one; I didn't think it would last too long anyway.


I have a 14S12P 52V battery with a JK BMS, by the way, using LG 18650 cells.


The motor is a 1500W CSC MTX from AliExpress, which didn’t really heat up much from 2000-2200W use with the bad controller. It didn’t go above 40-45°C after a longer ride.


I bought a Votol EM50-4 controller thinking I would push about 50-60 battery amps. I assembled everything, had a lot of trouble setting it up, and after programming the poor-quality Chinese Votol software, I connected a TF100 universal display to try it out. But the controller is got cooked before the first test ride.


I took it to a professional, and they told me the processor is dead.


Now, I’ve seen the Makerbase 84100HP and Makerbase 84200HP models, along with the Makerbase 75100 and 75200, and the Flipsky 75100 and 75200.


The problem is, I don’t know what to buy anymore. I don’t have any more money to throw out the window; actually, I have no more than 100 Euros, maybe 120 Euros left.


Will my bike work properly with any controller that is not a BAC2000, which costs more than the whole thing?


Will the Makerbase 84100HP fail on me?


Are there any better alternatives?


I want to push about 3500W peak through my motor on a 14S setup and don’t want throttle lag. I also want it to be programmable and have built-in Bluetooth or an option for a BT module.
i also am a little confused about phase and battery amps but i think i need about 60battery amps because my battery can handle that much continuous


Thank you!

 

[eee291]

You need to know what you're doing with these makerbase/flipsky controllers. I have some experience with them so I could help you set it up.

 

[sadebikebuilder]

You need to know what you're doing with these makerbase/flipsky controllers. I have some experience with them so I could help you set it up.

Are they good?Would the 84100hp be enough for me to push about 3500w through them?Would they last longer then a few weeks because of the load being close to its max?

 

[eee291]

I don't know about the reliability. Haven't had the chance to run it much on an EV, got one 75100 running for about a year as a lawnmower (fixed rpm). It might overheat if not sufficiently cooled as they don't have heatsinks but rather heat spreaders. I had to put a block of aluminum on the 75100 version just to get 40A continuous. If you are running only 60A short bursts when accelerating then I think the 100A Controller will be enough.

 

[n00b]

There's some like..16-fet 50 Amp 72(84)v Komodos I think.
The one I'm using doesn't pull that many amps, and I don't care because it adds range.
Why do you need so many amps? My motor as it is out-accelerates cars accelerating normally.
Here ya go, this is the one I was thinking of:

48V 60V 72V 84V 3000W 60A Brushless Controller Display For Electric Scooter Bike | eBay

Display Specification Color:As Shown In The Picture.

www.ebay.com

The controller I use is the 32A model. Same company, it's quality.
That looks small, could be Sine wave.
Here it is for cheaper, too.

Brushless Controller 36V 48V 52V 60V 62V 72V 84V 350W-3000W For E-Bike ATV Quad | eBay

Color:As Shown In The Picture.

www.ebay.com

 

[sadebikebuilder]

I don't know about the reliability. Haven't had the chance to run it much on an EV, got one 75100 running for about a year as a lawnmower (fixed rpm). It might overheat if not sufficiently cooled as they don't have heatsinks but rather heat spreaders. I had to put a block of aluminum on the 75100 version just to get 40A continuous. If you are running only 60A short bursts when accelerating then I think the 100A Controller will be enough.

so the controller can handle 60a battery current for accelerations?

 

[eee291]

It can even do 100A but it will go down quickly to protect against overheating

 

[sadebikebuilder]

It can even do 100A but it will go down quickly to protect against overheating

and how much phase amps?How different is the 84100hp from theb75100 one only the built in bt and phase line sampling instead of low side sampling?

 

[eee291]

The newer version should be better. I've only had the 75100 and 75200

 

[sadebikebuilder]

The newer version should be better. I've only had the 75100 and 7o

The newer version should be better. I've only had the 75100 and 75200

ok then if you say it can do 100phase amps i try it thank you for your help

 

[A-DamW]

Makerbase and Flipsky are some of the lowest cost VESC based controllers, they are also the lowest quality.

I do own 4 Flipsky controllers, and they have worked just fine for me over the years, but that is probably because I run them at less than 50% of their rated output.

I have heard that the Makerbase 84100HP and the 84200HP may have better noise filtering, so if you wanted to run at say, 100 phase amps, I would recommend the 84200HP, just so you have plenty of headroom.

For slightly more money, Spintend is generally regarded as quite a bit higher quality.
You can order directly from their website below:
Spintend ESC based on VESC

The 85V 240A , or the 85V 150A would probably work fine for you.

 

[sadebikebuilder]

Makerbase and Flipsky are some of the lowest cost VESC based controllers, they are also the lowest quality.

I do own 4 Flipsky controllers, and they have worked just fine for me over the years, but that is probably because I run them at less than 50% of their rated output.

I have heard that the Makerbase 84100HP and the 84200HP may have better noise filtering, so if you wanted to run at say, 100 phase amps, I would recommend the 84200HP, just so you have plenty of headroom.

For slightly more money, Spintend is generally regarded as quite a bit higher quality.
You can order directly from their website below:
Spintend ESC based on VESC

yeah not a bad idea,i think i will go with the bigger one because i think it can do more phase amps from same ammount of battery current

 

[A-DamW]

ok then if you say it can do 100phase amps i try it thank you for your help

Makerbase and Flipsky are some of the lowest cost VESC based controllers, they are also the lowest quality.

I do own 4 Flipsky controllers, and they have worked just fine for me over the years, but that is probably because I run them at less than 50% of their rated output.

I have heard that the Makerbase 84100HP and the 84200HP may have better noise filtering, so if you wanted to run at say, 100 phase amps, I would recommend the 84200HP, just so you have plenty of headroom.

For slightly more money, Spintend is generally regarded as quite a bit higher quality.
You can order directly from their website below:
Spintend ESC based on VESC

The 85V 240A , or the 85V 150A would probably work fine for you.

 

[scianiac]

I mean it seems controller quality is what you pay for, it seems perfectly possible for a controller to be made cheaply and reliably but it's not often the case. And it's not that they all fail it's just that some percentage of them fail because their designs are not amazing and quality control is poor. I have several cheap flipsky VESCs that are holding up but they are for sure crap quality. I've seen many fail as well. I mean makerbase basically ships every new ESC with numerous design flaws, they just released the 100/300HP or whatever it was called and the only one I saw somebody receive was DOA and they pulled the listing probably because there was some design or production flaw. Same with the 84200HP that had several design flaws when it was new. They are just low quality controllers and this can make them hard to use.

I think either buying cheap controllers with some level of warranty so you can get your money back if they fail right away or buying something mid-tier that some effort was put into designing and producing it. So something like a spintend or makerX, etc.

All of these use low side shunts except the 100/300HP which isn't currently available it seems as they are fixing the issues. Only a few higher end VESCs use phase shunts.

Even still as much as I like VESC and think it is superior in many ways it does require some skill to tune sometimes and that seems to be more the case with lower quality controllers that have poor filtering and poor design. Operating them below their max limits may help but I also think it's a matter of the motor, so pushing a motor harder requires more tuning or a higher quality controller.