Sorry if I’m a little late to reply, but yes, the battery was the issue. I should not have cheaper out and ended up buying one that seems like it’s on life support lmao. Thanks for the help.eee291:
You need a more capable battery. If 40A causes such a voltage drop then it's more like a weak OEM battery for 750w or maybe 1kw.
yea but expensive!Yet my problem or the thing i cannot understand is why this low voltage only happens after a long freewheeling (say 30s or more ). At all other times even at the highest speed, full throttle, and full max cur. Amp, I never saw the voltage drop below 57V. It is only happens after free wheeling/coasting of the 30 ec, regardless of whether the regen is on or off.
Nanjing far driver controllers
- Thread starter j bjork
- Start date
Can someone help me with the far driver nd72440. I have a 13s 10p pack. I’m running a q’s motor 200w hub. Im not fully understanding phase current and BUS current. How many watts can I expect to get out of this controller? Max and average? TIA
eee291
100 kW
Im assuming you have a 72450 since I can't find a 72440 online. The rated current is 190 Battery amps aka line current or bus current. The 450 stands for 450 phase amps or motor amps.
A 13S battery has a nominal voltage of 48v.
Watts are calculated from the battery amps not phase amps!
So the math would be 48Vx190A = 9.12kw
I don't know what cells and BMS your pack is using, at peak acceleration it would draw 19 amps from each cell, this isn't a problem with high c rate cells and proper battery current design. If the battery can't handle that current then you can always set the line current lower.
A 13S battery has a nominal voltage of 48v.
Watts are calculated from the battery amps not phase amps!
So the math would be 48Vx190A = 9.12kw
I don't know what cells and BMS your pack is using, at peak acceleration it would draw 19 amps from each cell, this isn't a problem with high c rate cells and proper battery current design. If the battery can't handle that current then you can always set the line current lower.
Or it is a 72240.
Is it really a 200W hub or a 2000W hub?
During acceleration you can get 3-4 times the rated power. If it is a 2kw Motor I would start with lower values.
80A bus or battery or line current and 200A phase current.
Is it really a 200W hub or a 2000W hub?
During acceleration you can get 3-4 times the rated power. If it is a 2kw Motor I would start with lower values.
80A bus or battery or line current and 200A phase current.
peadar
100 W
Got the PC software on old laptop,
Anyone know the baud rate ?
Last edited:
eee291
100 kW
The software does that automatically.
It's important for the COM port to show up in device manager, you may need to install some driver.
peadar
100 W
I will track down device manager and look for com port,
When I connect cable nothing happened,
What kind of driver ? Am I looking for
When I connect cable nothing happened,
What kind of driver ? Am I looking for
eee291
100 kW
I use a Noname USB to TTL converter. I found the drivers for it online. Are you using the cable from fardriver? If so you should be able to contact Sia or QS motors to get the driver from them.
From what I gathered online this driver could work since the cable uses a rs485 converter.
peadar
100 W
I got a no name,will try your link today
thanks
eee291
100 kW
It depends on the chip, you may need some other driver.
www.silabs.com
ftdichip.com
CP210x USB to UART Bridge VCP Drivers - Silicon Labs
The CP210x USB to UART Bridge Virtual COM Port (VCP) drivers are required for device operation as a Virtual COM Port to facilitate host communication with CP210x products. These devices can also interface to a host using the direct access driver.
Drivers - FTDI
ftdichip.com
peadar
100 W
downloaded link ok un zip ok but does not seem to finish install of driver
will try the other link
misha B 144
1 µW
I'm in need of help, my bike ran until I strapped all the wiring down, I Also, touched the positive lead on the controller with my hand and the bike frame and it shocked me. And I did something in settings that stopped letting me connect and bind to the app, it now beeps 5 short beeps, one long beep, I can't connect to the app to change whatever setting I messed up, trying to find a way of factory resetting the controller without the app somehow, please help
Attachments
rcnonstop
1 µW
Will this controllers work fine with simple low-KV outrunner motors like 6374/6384 (14 poles)?
I really like the reliability of these controllers and how sturdy they are unlike most RC ones that I usually use. But I wouldn’t want to end up with an unsolvable incompatibility.
As far as I understand fardriver cannot work in sensorless mode? And so it’s not entirely clear to me whether there will be compatibility with sensored versions of the motors that I want to use.
I really like the reliability of these controllers and how sturdy they are unlike most RC ones that I usually use. But I wouldn’t want to end up with an unsolvable incompatibility.
As far as I understand fardriver cannot work in sensorless mode? And so it’s not entirely clear to me whether there will be compatibility with sensored versions of the motors that I want to use.
its the 190a controller. what are you doing for the start up to stop arcing? I’m coming from a Kelley. Thnx for the info!
eee291
100 kW
For such motors, I would go with a VESC or a clone of one like flipsky or makerbase.
eee291
100 kW
Could you elaborate on this?
rcnonstop
1 µW
I have dealt with them many times and unfortunately they all died sooner or later. Even with DIY improved cooling. I need reliable 80A/12S constant power for several hours. All that VESC clones don't last long if they work like that. So I'm very interested in the possibility of connecting fardriver to that motors, commonly used in RC applications.
The controller is always connected to the battery. You only have to Power an enable input.
If you want to switch the controller completly off, you need a BMS with a precharge circuit.
What do you mean an enable input? On the Kelley We had a solonoid to stop inrush current. Btw, I’m using a 2000w motor. Qs205.
When I connect battery there’s an inrush of current and there is sparking on the controller + or - post depending on which one I connect first.
JRP3
1 kW
You need a pre-charge resistor in the circuit that connects before the main contactors and charges the controller capacitors in a few seconds instead of all at once. The Kelly may have handled that internally.
Normaly you only connect the controller one time to the battery , there you can use a resistor or a light bulb to charge the capacitors.
The rest of the time the controller stays connectetd to the battery, and for driving you have an "enable pin" called key lock.
This one has to be connected to the battery plus with a switch to get the controller working.
The rest of the time the controller stays connectetd to the battery, and for driving you have an "enable pin" called key lock.
This one has to be connected to the battery plus with a switch to get the controller working.
JRP3
1 kW
Don't you put a contactor between the battery and controller? I do, and that needs a precharge circuit unless the controller handles that internally. Not all of them do.
No , as I drive daily, there is no need to cut the controller from the battery.
All three of my scooters had the controller directly connected to the battery. Only things between battery and controller is a fuse and the bms.
All three of my scooters had the controller directly connected to the battery. Only things between battery and controller is a fuse and the bms.
JRP3
1 kW
I've always considered it standard practice to have a main contactor between pack and controller. That is what the schematics show from the manufacturers of the controllers I've used, and I'm fairly certain OEM EV producers do the same.
