Nanjing far driver controllers

hello, does anyone have the ND72530 controller firmware that works with the kty83-122 thermal sensor?
 
hello, Are the line current mentioned in the fardriver datasheets, RMS or peak value ?
line current = battery current. and with DC there is no RMS since it is the actual current. Are you asking if this is the continuous current rating or just a peak (momentary/burst/whatever you want to call it) rating?

or are you asking about the phase/motor current (AC)?
 
line current = battery current. and with DC there is no RMS since it is the actual current. Are you asking if this is the continuous current rating or just a peak (momentary/burst/whatever you want to call it) rating?

or are you asking about the phase/motor current (AC)?
I meant the phase current
 
Phase current is peak, as like almost on any other of the cheaper controllers Sabvoton and Votol also advertise with peak values.
Sevcon has RMS values listed in there datasheet.
 
I am currently developing my own electronics for my Puch RL 125 (1956) conversion. Currently I am connected to the Fardriver motor controller with the USB dongle. I am wondering if I can attache my microcontroller in parallel to the USB-dongle (RX,TX and GND without the 5V as this voltage is only for the USB dongle supply). Does anybody has the information if this is possible? Thanks Regards
Andreas

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Hi all

I have just fitted a 2nd generation Fardriver ND72300 controller coupled to a DKD display and it uses the brown wire for the speed line instead of the light blue wire.

I’m unable to get the amps to work on the DKD using the brown wire, so I’m wondering if anybody has been successful in displaying amps on a DKD using a 2nd generation Fardriver controller.

In case you are wondering what the differences are, the multi plug wiring is different between the 1st and 2nd generation controllers. I don’t know if there are any internal differences.

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I finally got around to sorting this. Byte Options was set to zero and some of the options allow the display to monitor current. I have set it to Byte Option 6 for the time being as that appears to give the correct current reading.
 
Those cut wires are CAN HIGH / CAN LOW. Every farDriver comes with these.

UPDATE -----
I managed to get One Line Working on FarDriver 72280 (x80). I got a manual and did copy and paste all settings from the picture on it and then clicked Save, maybe a bug because most of settings were the same. And yes, its working with the LIGHT BLUE wire from controllers wiring harbess
What manual and which settings were those?
 
Hi everyone!
I’ve just got a FarDriver controller and I want to adjust the parameters directly (not only flashing files).
I saw some posts here mentioning that there is an English PC version of FarDriver software on Google Drive.
Could anyone please share the latest link with me?
Thank you!
 
Anyone have experience with Fardriver and a ME1616? I'm trying to do that now, but having trouble. I started a thread here: ME1616 with Fardriver
Not sure if I have an encoder incompatibility or what. Anyway, if you have done it I would appreciate any parameter settings you used, thanks.
 
Indeed it is; the vast majority of sorta insightful information I can search leads back here. I've read much/most of it and am still left mildly baffled. There are a good handful of youtube videos out there that go over some of the bare minimum to get the controller up and running, but then bail out on useful information after that.

For instance, trying to track down any concrete information about how regen works (there's a whole thread on ES) is yet still shrouded in gobs of mystery. Like the stop and max current. Most controllers are clear by having settings like "max battery regen" and "max phase regen", but there's zero clarify on if that's what these two values are, and if not, what they are otherwise.

There's also allusion to a variable regen mode in some docs I've seen -- not the typical "3-EABSWhenRelease" mode, but something else which implies there's a mode that could utility a mid-point-reset throttle to have "twist forward regen + twist back accel" type setup. But the translation for it is so...inscrutable that I can't make heads or tails of how it's supposed to work, if at all! Plus, the app has a value in the section that's just completely and fully undocumented that alludes to a brake voltage value! Like...a regen throttle?? But, alas, just reads some random voltage and can't be interacted with.

4.2 Negative current coefficient:

Tacitly approve 0, the faster the return speed of the accelerator, the smaller the braking force. Slow speed and light braking force.
1: The brake force is the strongest when returning to the accelerator.

Above this speed, turn back half of the speed without adding a uniform speed.The speed does not slow down. Take for example 4000 Express 0- 4000 The higher the rotation speed, the closer to half of the throttle value, 4000 The above intermediate throttle value is uniform and does not accelerate.

Deceleration state. Speed up above the middle value, below the middle value, slow down, and the more you turn back.The more powerful the brakes are.

Don't even get me started on the "ratios in speed" configuration nonsense. ("We based all our proportional field weakening on a 4 pole motor so every motor that's NOT 4 poles has some come up with some weird math when setting behaviors at "XYZ rpm". Ugh. Fortunately I can side step all that by just not using field weakening, yay!)
 
But, alas, just reads some random voltage and can't be interacted with.
Is there any pin on it's connector(s) that is not used in your harness that when touched with a finger (without touching any ohter pins) causes that voltage reading to change? If so, that is probably the signal input for this function.


As for the wierd choices in UI and functionality and bases for variables, I've got plenty of audio and image editing software**** that has plenty of that, caused by what I used to call "programmer syndrome" but is really "engineer syndrome". That's where the designer of whatever it is decided a way it would work, and built everything around that, including the UI, without any thought to what the user needs to interact with and how. When confronted by the user with this problem, it is almost always declared to not be a problem, and called "as intended" or "as designed", and the user is left frustrated and may have to choose to walk away and use something else instead. The problem is, of course it was intended and designed that way, but that's not the way it *should* be designed, because the UI doesn't have to (and almost never should) work the same way the internals do--it's a USER interface, not a PROGRAM interface. ;) The same is true of hardware as much as software, hence the "engineer" vs "programmer" change to the syndrome.

Over the decades, I have tried with *many many* people to get past this in their designs, and have almost never been able to even get the problem across, much less get them to try to fix it. I don't think I have *ever* gotten any of them to fix it *correctly*. I'd say it is probably the biggest single reason I don't really want to beta test anything anymore, because I started doing that to help get these kinds of changes in during development, but that doesn't work either. :(


****I won't even go into the programming software / IDE / etc problems with this, which are even worse....
 
I never heatd of twist forward regen.
I had installed a ND72680 which had done variable regen by turning the throttle slower or faster back to 0V.
There a at least two different controllboards in the Fardrivers out there.
Later I installed a ND72450 in another scooter, i could not get the variable regen working, same with my now installed ND721800. They only have fixed regen current.

The other cheaper chinese Controllers, like Votol, have no better documentations.
 
But there you don't get 450A phase and 200A line current for 150 bucks.
I also really liked to have a good manual, as I would like to use the traction control function in my scooter and raise the phase current to 1800A and the line current from 400 to 500A. But the now set 1400pA is the max I can safely handle on good roads without fearing of loosing control whilst starting from a standstill.
I never tried Vesc, I am used to industrial Siemens frequency inverters where every of the nearly 500 parameters is well documented, so I know how a good documentation can look like.
 
Hi guys, I have a few questions for you regarding battery parameters in the Fardriver app. I am running a 26s11p battery for which my BMS is setup at 84V low and 109V max Voltage. Since I started to use the ND96680 I didn't really look at the battery parameter, assuming that with auto-learn and inputting my battery voltage (96V) it would be good enough. But now that I looked at it I realized that the controler over voltage is setup at 118V and I can't change that value. I can change the low voltage protect, I can change 0 and full battcoeff but not overvoltage.

Any idea why that is and how I can fix it ? Is it dangerous to keep it setup at 118V when my BMS overvolt protection is setup a 109.4V ?

Another topic is that when I go in the Graph tab the remaining battery percentage was always off. I thought it was because my battcoeff parameter were off so I set them up at 840 (assuming it stands for 84.0V) for the 0battcoeff and at 1090 for the max battcoeff (assuming it was 109.0V). But now even at 102V the battery indicator in the graph tab show 100% when it should show something like 80%.
Do you know why it is doing this ? Are the battcoeff parameters not for fixing this ? Is there any risk with my current battcoeff parameters ?

I looked here, on google and FB groups but couldn't really find any information about what these 2 parameters are actually supposed to do. Also, I don't have a display on my bike so that's why I'd like to have a decent battery gauge in the app, otherwise I need to also connect on the BMS app or just estimate by looking at battery voltage, which I can do but reading a % is more convenient.
 
It is not dangerous with the overvoltage settings at 118V.
I have a ND96850 which came with overvoltage setting set to around 90V , with a firmware update the setting was raised to 121V, it ran with 116V without any issues.

I do not know which are the rigth settings, for battcoeff for your controller and your battery.
I just set my upper one when the battery was fully charge to show 100% and the lower one just before the battery was empty to show 0%.
 
I can change over voltage setting on my 80A and 200A fardrivers. I think you can use the PC program on some settings that the app can't change, like temp and maybe voltage in your case.
 
I can change over voltage setting on my 80A and 200A fardrivers. I think you can use the PC program on some settings that the app can't change, like temp and maybe voltage in your case.
Yeah maybe, I can change temps, so far the over voltage is the only parameter I wasn't able to modify using the app.

Secondary question, totally unrelated. It appears that the on/off switch I am using on my bike is creating some issues where the bike stops working if pulling hard. It seems to shut down for a few seconds, and it seems that the bike becomes responsive again only after it comes to a stop. The on/off switch I was using before wasn't causing any issues and reverting to that switch solved the issue.

Does anyone know if there are ways to wire the ignition switch on a lower V part of the controller or is it all using 96V in the case of a ND96 series controller ? At the moment the switch is wired with the ignition wire and a wiring coming from the + of the battery.
 
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