Need help replacing hub motor

[valentinejr237]

I have an Anioki A9 pro max single motor. The motor has failed twice in 6 months. I think the motor is a HengTai as the markings are HWEW 1500w48v. I been told that a bafang core would fit the housing and also it would NOT fit the housing. I am hoping to find a higher quality core that doesn't cost the 549usd that Aniioki is asking for just the core. I want to continue to use the 60ah 48v battery and the YOLIN controller to make the replacement as easy as possible. Replacing the hub would be an issue because I can't get the hex screws broke loose from the disc rotor and drilling them out would cause another issue I think. Any help would be appreciated

 

[AdR]

Is the controller programmable or have a auto learn feature? If so you can replace with a motor of your budget

 

[fill]

Motor Failed?? Sensors or Burnt out coils?? if the latter? - address your controller config and level of rider awareness.. Otherwise expect the same again unless you upgrade the motor to one that wont burn out under your particular load conditions.

buy a new disk for the replacement hub.. laceing the wheel isnt a dark art, youtube has many 5-10 minute guides for the procedure, just trust the method - hardest aspect is sizing replacement spokes and online calculators are to be found to help there, failing that amazon returns policy

edit.. looks like a direct drive motor, if so check out the 'stator-aid' cooling options for the next motor perhaps, especially if its under extreme load..

 

[Balmorhea]

Take the hint and get a real bike. Like one you would be willing to ride even if it did not have a motor. You can find a good used MTB and convert it for less than your brand's replacement motor core, especially considering you already have a battery that is the most expensive part of a conversion.

 

[99t4]

hardest aspect is sizing replacement spokes and online calculators are to be found to help there, failing that amazon returns policy

Amazon takes back cut-to-order spokes?

 

[valentinejr237]

Motor Failed?? Sensors or Burnt out coils?? if the latter? - address your controller config and level of rider awareness.. Otherwise expect the same again unless you upgrade the motor to one that wont burn out under your particular load conditions.

buy a new disk for the replacement hub.. laceing the wheel isnt a dark art, youtube has many 5-10 minute guides for the procedure, just trust the method - hardest aspect is sizing replacement spokes and online calculators are to be found to help there, failing that amazon returns policy

edit.. looks like a direct drive motor, if so check out the 'stator-aid' cooling options for the next motor perhaps, especially if its under extreme load..

Why couldn't I use my current wheel and spokes, drill out the disc screws and use the disc on the new hub? Seems that replacing 5M hex screws would be much easier than buying a disc, wheel and spokes and hoping it all works together.

My main question is if I purchase a new hub, something like a bafang 1500w 48v, and it has the same plug and dimensions will it work with my controller?

When I Grok or Gemini the comparisons to my current unit and the Bafang I get conflicting answers. I'm hoping someone with experience can point me in the correct direction.

Each of the motors I've had lasted roughly 3700 miles each. That's riding on hilly terrain at 25-38mph while rarely using PAS. Is that normal wear and tear? 549$ for 3700miles of commute doesn't seem horrendous since has in a petrol moped/scooter would be roughly the same. With that said I would like to get even longer and enhanced service for less money if possible which is why I created this thread.

 

[E-HP]

Why couldn't I use my current wheel and spokes, drill out the disc screws and use the disc on the new hub? Seems that replacing 5M hex screws would be much easier than buying a disc, wheel and spokes and hoping it all works together.

If this is the plan, then nobody here can can suggest a replacement motor unless you provide the dropout width, dishing offset, flange diameter and flange spacing of the current motor.

 

[marty]

can't get the hex screws broke loose from the disc rotor and drilling them out would cause another issue

All kinds of ways to get screws loose. Start with penetrating oil. Tap to make oil soak in. Also time works. Spray and spray again tomorrow.

 

[99t4]

Why couldn't I use my current wheel and spokes, drill out the disc screws and use the disc on the new hub?

Sure, if the replacement hubmotor is the exact same dimensions as the old one. Specifically, the flange/spokehole diameters and flange width.

My main question is if I purchase a new hub, something like a bafang 1500w 48v, and it has the same plug and dimensions will it work with my controller?

Again, the flange dimensions are key. For the wiring hookups, generally, you can't count on the color-coded wires being consistent between components across various manufacturers, sometimes even between items from the same manufacturer over time. Seems like sometimes they use whatever wire is more easily available on the assembly line. Might require some testing with the multimeter and cutting/splicing the wires.

The motor has failed twice in 6 months... Each of the motors I've had lasted roughly 3700 miles each. That's riding on hilly terrain at 25-38mph while rarely using PAS. Is that normal wear and tear?

Seems like premature failure. Are you overheating them on the hills? Might want to incorporate a temperature sensor and power rollback feature.

 

[fill]

Why couldn't I use my current wheel and spokes, drill out the disc screws and use the disc on the new hub? Seems that replacing 5M hex screws would be much easier than buying a disc, wheel and spokes and hoping it all works together.

My main question is if I purchase a new hub, something like a bafang 1500w 48v, and it has the same plug and dimensions will it work with my controller?

When I Grok or Gemini the comparisons to my current unit and the Bafang I get conflicting answers. I'm hoping someone with experience can point me in the correct direction.

Each of the motors I've had lasted roughly 3700 miles each. That's riding on hilly terrain at 25-38mph while rarely using PAS. Is that normal wear and tear? 549$ for 3700miles of commute doesn't seem horrendous since has in a petrol moped/scooter would be roughly the same. With that said I would like to get even longer and enhanced service for less money if possible which is why I created this thread.

You can certainly reuse your current disk, its just you seemed reticent earlier and its not a bank breaking expense if you elect for
that. Re-using the current wheel rim would be expedient too afaik spokes are single use items.. once fitted they are stretched under tension to perform ( not a materials engineer so tspoon of salt included)

Grin @ ebikes.ca will probably have a suitable motor? confirm by gathering the measurements listed above to confirm.

Your certainly suffering from early death of your motors tho you should be getting an order of magnitude or two more miles at least imho

Amazon takes back cut-to-order spokes?

Probably not but they will accept returns of basic 36x Xmm long 12 gauge sets ok..

 

[E-HP]

You can certainly reuse your current disk, its just you seemed reticent earlier and its not a bank breaking expense if you elect for
that.

This thread made me go check my rotors. Ugh, they’re paper thin. Floating 203mm front and back, and I think the 3rd pair, based on my Amazon history. Ordered.
The OP’s bike is a behemoth. If the rotors don’t need replacing now, they probably will soon anyway.

 

[yooper2001]

The A9 pro max weighs like 180 ibs.....Realistically how far could you pedal a near 200 pound bike if it malfunctioned?

 

[valentinejr237]

The A9 pro max weighs like 180 ibs.....Realistically how far could you pedal a near 200 pound bike if it malfunctioned?

Absolutely nowhere. I didn't buy it to pedal. I am a 52yr old man that's not interested in bike riding. I need to get to work, Drs appts and the dollar general lol.

 

[E-HP]

it’s looking like the $549 replacement motor is probably the best option in your case. Maybe buy a spare to have on hand.

 

[valentinejr237]

it’s looking like the $549 replacement motor is probably the best option in your case. Maybe buy a spare to have on hand.

Yeah, I'm thinking so. They did offer me a $200 discount so 349usd for a motor with one year warranty doesn't sound horribly bad. If they give me the 1yr warranty I will probably just go with the Aniioki part. I know it will fail within a year so I will basically be buying insurance for the $100-$150 more the Aniioki part is versus an Amazon purchase.

Wonder how many times they'll replace it?

 

[E-HP]

Yeah, I'm thinking so. They did offer me a $200 discount so 349usd for a motor with one year warranty doesn't sound horribly bad. If they give me the 1yr warranty I will probably just go with the Aniioki part. I know it will fail within a year so I will basically be buying insurance for the $100-$150 more the Aniioki part is versus an Amazon purchase.

Wonder how many times they'll replace it?

Too bad they didn’t design the bike better. Not sure what skills you have, but sounds like you were/are willing to replace the motor internals, so ok with tearing it down. If that’s the case, then I’d add a temp sensor to the new motor, and then you can avoid overheating your motor and having to replace it so often. I never let my hub exceed 90C and it looked new inside the last time I checked (I have just shy of 10k miles on it). I ride on a lot of steep hills.

 

[valentinejr237]

Too bad they didn’t design the bike better. Not sure what skills you have, but sounds like you were/are willing to replace the motor internals, so ok with tearing it down. If that’s the case, then I’d add a temp sensor to the new motor, and then you can avoid overheating your motor and having to replace it so often. I never let my hub exceed 90C and it looked new inside the last time I checked (I have just shy of 10k miles on it). I ride on a lot of steep hills.

I've replaced the core only after the original unit started making noise after a few miles. They sent me an internal core only and I kept it in the box until the original eventually failed after 3800 miles.

How would I install the temp sensor? Would it solder in? How would I read the sensor?

If I do replace the core only I think I'm going to use ATF as lube instead of the thick white grease they sent with the last unit

 

[99t4]

There are probably several threads here on ES showing temp sensor installation, sorry I don't have time now to search for you but you can find them. Also, others have tried ATF in their hubmotors, seems like the main problem is that it leaks out and can foul the disc brake (pads), you can probably find posts on that as well.

 

[E-HP]

I've replaced the core only after the original unit started making noise after a few miles. They sent me an internal core only and I kept it in the box until the original eventually failed after 3800 miles.

How would I install the temp sensor? Would it solder in? How would I read the sensor?

If I do replace the core only I think I'm going to use ATF as lube instead of the thick white grease they sent with the last unit

I used an NTC 10k sensor, which is pretty common, and pushed it in between the coils of the stator. I used a little epoxy to hold it in place. The sensor has two thin conductors that you would fish through the same opening as the motor cable. You could get away with fishing only one wire, then using the hall sensor supply ground for the second conductor, which I did..

uxcell 10pcs 10K 3590B 1% NTC Thermistors Resistors Temperature Sensor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

uxcell 10pcs 10K 3590B 1% NTC Thermistors Resistors Temperature Sensor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Then you’d want a temp meter that is calibrated to use the NTC 10k. I use my Cycle Analyst to read the temp, but you could get any meter calibrated for use with the NTC 10k. Make sure it covers the temp range that you need (greater than 100C).

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Fahrenheit-Temperature-Thermistor-Protection/dp/B01L1DLPWG

 

[hillslayer@]

Sell it you will never trust that bike . Buying a premade bike that can take a lot of use is probably a short list and a lot of research.

 

[kristian92]

Same plug and 48V are a good start, but I wouldn't take that as a guarantee it'll work with the existing controller.

I'd want to confirm the phase/hall wiring, axle and dropout dimensions, wheel size, and whether the Yolin controller has any kind of self-learn function for a different motor.

I'd also try to figure out what actually failed in the last two motors before buying another one. If the windings were cooked rather than something like a hall sensor or bearing, two motors dying at roughly the same mileage might point more toward heat/load than just bad luck.