Need help with Amazon kit controller.

[HippieLove]

Hello everyone,

I am in need of multiple heads for thinking

I recently reversed the polarity on my bike. BAD NEWS!!!

FRIED CONTROLLER AAHCK!!!

SO I have got a new one. I have hooked it up. The display reads and lights up, but says there is no life in the battery. And I have no action from the throttle to the motor.

Anyone got any word that can help?

 

[wasp]

check the battery with a voltage meter and work forward through your system to see where the power stops
maybe blown fuse in the battery
you should list what your setup is so people can chime in photos are great as well
wasp

 

[HippieLove]

So it seems I cannot up load a photo with my tech at hand.

And as far as chasing the wires I need coaching to know what it wires should have which. Voltage when attatched to which. Wire when connected with a multi meter.

 

[Ykick]

What do you have? With no pics or at least a brand/model to go by how can anyone provide any direction? Check the battery output connectors using a volt meter. I'd also take precautions so that reverse polarity can never happen again.

Might've fried a BMS if equipped - was it specific replacement controller or a generic?

 

[HippieLove]

This is some cheap kit from amazon. From asomdirect if that tells you any thing also the wires replacement is the samended generic that came with the kit.

I have a model number if that helps.

Controller KT48ZWSLT-LCD

So you say the bms can be fried? Shoot what can I do about that if that is the issue?

Yes I was going to purchase proper connectors before. I am dirt broke. Part reason I want this bike running so broke a couldn't afford connectors.

It is on my priority list.

 

[HippieLove]

Hello anybody?

All I have is my phone. The site is not letting me load pictures from my phone. If anybody cares to help we cam communicate quicker by phone. Here is my number I can send pictures and run through the systems real quivck with anybody willing to help me out. 6232296881

 

[mark5]

You probably have this kit (1, 2) sold by Aosom Direct. Looks the same as Yescom.

What battery do you have? SLA batteries or something else? And do you have a multimeter so you can test whether your battery still outputs power or might have shut down? You could use one now. Harbor Freight has them for cheap.

 

[HippieLove]

I have come to realize that the display must have been fried. There is no other explaination.
The display when on allows the motor up operate. The display for some reason is not recognizing that the battery has power and therefore wont allow the motor to run.

Unless the new controller I recieved is bad which I doubt I have power going in an coming out.

That's is all.

 

[HippieLove]

Mark5 the battery currently has an output of 52.9V.

I have a cali battery

I do have a multi meter.

 

[John in CR]

Set your connectors up so reverse polarity is impossible. That and/or making permanent connections is the only way to be sure it never happens again.

 

[liveforphysics]

I like your username.

PM me your address, I will send you some connectors and a fuse.

 

[docnjoj]

Those LCD screens can be bypassed. I vaguely remember connect wires 1,2 and 3,5 to get the motor to run with the throttle. I would check the website, or perhaps KT website for more information.
otherDoc

 

[dogman dan]

He did not have a proper plug for his battery yet, and inadvertently hooked up the controller with the polarity backwards on the second or third ride.

If this issue does not resolve itself, (vendor sends you the parts) I was looking at controllers on ebay yesterday, and saw one for 22 bucks delivered. If you need to get one like that and I'll help you figure out the halls order to make it run.

Or for about 50-60, they had controllers that would self learn the halls order. Easy to get one to run.

 

[HippieLove]

Oh wow,

You guys I have been disconnected recently quite literally.

JohninCR I knew this just hadn't got around to getting the proper connectors.

Liveforphysics thank you I dig your name too.

Docnjoj I am not quite ballsy enough to try that method.

Nelson37 this sounds like something to be discussed on the phone. I could type out a whole list of what I am reading wire by wire and I am not all too wavy on what kind of readings I should be getting from here to there. From what I have assessed it was fault in the display. I got a new display and I still face the same issue perhaps it may be the new controller I received is faulty. I have been in contact with DogmanDan he tells me perhaps I gave a blown bms.

DogmanDan thanks for all of your assistance.

 

[dogman dan]

FWIW, he's about 70 miles from my house. So I'm planning to do a visit and put some of his stuff on the tester. Figure out what works, then go from there.

Looks like they sent him some stuff, and then gave him a full refund too!

 

[dogman dan]

Went by there this morning, and of course too damn stupid to bring my camera. So still no pictures.

Here's what I found. Battery is fine, and now he's got some 45 amp andersons on it to connect. His battery runs my bike with no problems at all. It's the 48v 15 ah cali battery.

All plugs appear ok, mostly good mini jst's no backed out contacts.

Trying the new controller Aosom sent him.

The display has an on off button, which works. Turn it on, and the display lights up. Power levels 1-5 toggle like normal. But when you first plug in, the battery meter starts to show some bars, but then quickly fades out, like it's going back to 0v for some reason.

Display has 5 wires. red black, and three others of some other color. Blue, and two others I forget. There is 53v going into the display, But the battery meter in the display shows no bars. The 53v does show on the display side of the plug.

Both displays do this identically, Both the new one sent, and the old one.

Throttle wires. With the display turned off, 0v. Exactly as it should be. When you turn on the display, it shows .3v on the red wire. .3 not 3v. Clearly something is not right here. But no sparks, hot connectors to the battery, or bms trip. so it's not a huge dead short somewhere.

Question. Does anybody know how to hotwire this controller to turn on without the display? I'm assuming it's red to connect to one of the other wires. It would be interesting to try to power up the controller without the display.

If that is not possible, or nobody knows, The plan now is to get a simple controller off ebay, and start over. The whole problem could be the new controller they sent is shit. I left him some parts, so maybe he can repair the old one.

On the bright side, they sent parts, and then even sent his money back. So he's ahead a motor. 8)

 

[amberwolf]

YOu might check my Fusin 1000w kit review thread; somewhere in there I found how to bypass it's LCD display to run the controller without it. I forget which wires it is, but I think it was "obvious" :lol: from the voltages; been so long I don't remember for sure.

 

[nutnspecial]

The plan now is to get a simple controller off ebay

Sounds like the display to me. Maybe aosom will sell it singularly?

Otherwise, I'd check for two wires that get polarity when display is powered up- just close the circuit before the display? The red is probably to power display and/or pack level imo.
The controller shouldn't be depending on anything else from the display cuz everything runs into the controller first from what I understand.

 

[HippieLove]

So straight red to black before the.

 

[nutnspecial]

No dont do that man

 

[dogman dan]

No, I never figured red back to black. Red to one of the other colors. It's going to be similar to the ignition wire connection of a controller with a fat and skinny red wire.

Red is already 52v, so it's not just connect battery to the red.

But not sure it's the display, both displays do the same thing. One of them did work at first. More I think about it, I suspect the new controller they sent has the defect.

Others sell the same, or similar enough parts one by one, but at a price that makes buying a whole new kit almost better.

 

[d8veh]

The battery voltage goes up the red wire to the display. When you switch on the display, it latches a switch to send the power back down the blue wire to power the controller. If there's a problem in the controller or anywhere else downstream, like a short, you'll see the battery level go down in the display. You can test for that by checking if there's a spark when you join the red and blue wires. Normally, the current is very low, so there should be no spark.

In theory, you can bypass the display like that, but the otyer two wires are txcand rx data. The controller might be set to level zero by default. You need the dispkay to chage it to get power from the throttle. I'd be very surprused if it was a problem with the dispkay. I'd say that it's almost certainly downstream, so you need to check all the other wiring.

 

[dogman dan]

Thanks for that one. Just the info I needed. This is how a dumbass like me learns, I'm not able to look at a board and go, this does this, that does that.

So, I'd say nothing to lose by trying that Hippielove. See what happens if you connect the red display wire with the blue. If it runs great. When the display fires up, it's set to level 4. So some possibility that it will run in level 4.

Worth a try. I seriously doubt you can wreck the controller trying it, it's broke now so,,,,

I can't remember if the plug on the controller is female or not. If it is, clean off a chunk of bread bag twist tie, and jam it in the plug to jump the power from red to blue. I've done that with 5v ignition switch wires lots of time. no key, just scrap of wire you can pull out.

 

[nutnspecial]

Hi dogman, I didn't realize you'd tried another display as well. . . That does help rule it out.

d8v, you know your stuff! So the display does a little more than complete the pack voltage on/off circuit, it also sends pas level signal to override whatever the default controller setting is (assuming there is a default?).
So any low volt protection, ebrake function, speed limit are independent of display.

Good luck guys!

 

[dnmun]

that original controller may still work yet if repaired. too bad he doesn't have a digital camera to load the picture onto his disk. i can download pictures from my phone to my disk so not sure why his phone will not download to disk.

anyway, when the controller is reversed in polarity the battery shorts through the body diodes of the output mosfets.

that current all flows through the shunt wires and since it is a dead short through the body diodes then the shunt is usually vaporized by the current.

the reverse polarity also can damage the input caps since it applied against them but since the voltage on the caps, even though reversed is not likely to have been very high because the BMS would shut off for over current before the voltage could climb much imo.

if he had a BMS on his battery then it is possible the shunts did not blow but until we can see it there is no way to know.

you can test the output mosfets with the diode tester on the DVM to see if the current damaged them. but it should be repairable.