New Bafang Crank-Drives

It's mostly hidden now. The arrows point to the reed switch hidden under a huge chunk of hot glue, and the magnet on the lever. I had to protect the fragile glass reed switch. I'll try cutting the blob down later. The wires are connected to the NC pins of the reed switch, and the magnet keeps it open normally. When the magnet is moved away from the reed switch it closes. Both up and down shifting on these shifters move the rear lever, so it works both up and down.

I thought about doing the same thing when I had the motor on my fatbike, but then I would only use it on downshifting as it's a trigger shifter. I don't think it's that critical on upshifts.

The video shows how it works, only when stationary. It interrupts the assist and spins the motor at this speed when riding, and the assist engages immediately after I release the shifter. There's no gap like with the brake switches.
[youtube]_rZQum-Znkc[/youtube]

I had fiddled with the throttle settings which offset the bottom, so it was stronger and faster in the video. I reset it now, and it's bothweak and slower again, even in first gear. ;) IT just needs to interrupt the assist, so it's perfect now. I could make it interrupt the throttle lever as well by connecting the NC end of the reed switch in series with the throttle. That way it would disconnect the throttle lever, and run thgouth the resistors when shifting.
 

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Bafang 750 watt, 25 amper, bbs02, c965 display unbox
[youtube]Sbn2jiPktJ8[/youtube]
 
mwkeefer said:
Since then ( a few weeks ago ) he's been pushing it as hard as the stock controller with some removed throttle delay / ramp setting for nearly 200 miles with no temperature or other issues at 15S or 55.5v.

No grinding, play, overheating or well.... no issues at all.

Moral of the story, for the least amount of headaches... ensure your vendor has v4 drives, which we currently do not as they are about to set sail but if you can't find one in the next 3-6 weeks, contact me via PM I will be glad to reserve one for you.


-Mike

3rd request. PLEASE if we're going to plant information, how about making is usable by pinnig down a build date and serial code. Please Mike, finish the great piece of information with a set point that is usable.

What has been done with BBS01 over this time?


Thanks!

Tom
 
giantNRS1 said:
Does anyone know of a switch I can buy that connects to Anderson power poles? Right now I am connecting them manually every time I want to ride and I feel like over time I am going to wear them out. What I want is something that connects on both sides, one side to the motor, the other to the battery and has a switch or something to make the connection live. Does anything like that exist??
I bought a wired switch and installed Anderson power poles on each side. I'm not sure what you are asking for? A switch with anderson's already installed? I can make one for you at cost plus first class postage if you send me a picture of the connection. You pay for the Anderson's, the switch, and the first class envelope and postage. Look for a SPST on Amazon or someplace where it doesn't take a month to come from China.
 
[youtube]d8Qt0hd7C9Y[/youtube]
2004 Maverick ML-7
Bafang BBS02 750W Midmount Motor
11.5 Ah Bottle mount Battery w/Samsung 29E 18650 cell 13s4p
DUC32 Maverick inverted dual crown fork
Magura Marta SL Disc Brakes
Clarks 203mm rotors
SRAM PG-950 9 speed 11-28 Cassette
Ergon GR3 Biokork grips
SRAM XO rear derailleur
Moots Titanium Handlebar
WTB 1.5 x 26 Slicks (80 psi)
Mavic 819 rims
Maverick Dropper seatpost
Niteye B20 front light
Knog Blinder Road rear light
Bafang single chainring is 48T
Gel saddle from my 1990s college mtb.
Grin Technologies - Cycle Satiator Smart Charger
 
Struggling to think how you'd fit 16 fets in there....
 
"Electric bike Mid Drive 8fun 48V 750W BBS02 New 16 Mos. Ver. 1400 W max output
New 2015 Version 16 Mosfett -Normal is 9 Mosf controler"
 
Yup that's what they say. I guess it goes with the "53T" chainring.

WOW!! That's one suspicious sale.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-bike-Mid-Drive-8fun-48V-750W-BBS02-New-16-Mos-Ver-1400-W-max-output-/271526025442?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f383658e2

Is this the mysterious V4 Keefer eludes to?
 
LOL :D
16'th FET you get as a spare free of charge

Why the hell you would need 15FET controller for 28A? I would say that even if it was true 12FET would be more than enough.
PS If you look closely in the screenshot in that ebay link you'll see that motor is 18A 500W
 
raktas said:
LOL :D
16'th FET you get as a spare free of charge

Why the hell you would need 15FET controller for 28A? I would say that even if it was true 12FET would be more than enough.
PS If you look closely in the screenshot in that ebay link you'll see that motor is 18A 500W

Yes your right. Plus if it's a "New" system then why is it still using a C961 screen? They also indicate a standard chainring of 46t. The 46t is standard on the 48v 500w. The 48v 750w standard chainring is a 48t.

Bob
 
The resistance of the resistor I used for the gear sensor is 113.6 kOhm. Makes it run super slow/weak so that it doesn't run away if I accidentally press it while standing still. However, I programmed the controller so that assist level 1 is completely dead so that the bike will not react to any input after I turn it on.
 
Do I have a bad throttle or speed sensor?

Or am I overlooking something obvious? Since I'm installing a bbs02 on a Cannondale tandem (my first build), it's not surprising that the speedo sensor cable is too short to reach the wheel spokes. I'd like to test the motor with the throttle before I order an extension cable in case there are more parts to add to the completion list. But the throttle doesn't start the motor, even on PAS 0. No error codes show on my 961 display, battery indicator shows full; it just doesn't work. Do I need to have the speedo sensor working before I can test the motor?

Because of drop handlebars and an unwillingness to remove the brake hoods, at this point I'm just holding the throttle with the bike on a stand. The brakes that came with the kit are not installed, but plugging them in made no difference.

Another note about the speed sensor. Holding the spoke magnet 2mm from the sensing point does not turn the red light on. Seems like it should.
 
EstebanUno said:
Do I need to have the speedo sensor working before I can test the motor?

Another note about the speed sensor. Holding the spoke magnet 2mm from the sensing point does not turn the red light on. Seems like it should.

Got PAS to work by activating speed sensor with a magnet. Apparently the spoke sensor that came with the kit didn't have a magnet. Works with error 21 showing. I hope error is because the speed is not being reported to controller, which will clear up with proper installation of speed sensor. Also had to disconnect the freely hanging brakes to make motor start.

Throttle still doesn't work on any PAS setting. I think it is bad.

Is this the wrong place to post these types of questions? I'm confused about the BBSOX thread organization?
 
If you had to disconnect the E-brakes to make the motor start that means that on at least one of the brakes the switch is making contact. You could plug them one at a time to see which one, assuming that they are both not doing it. I have been riding my Bafang BBS02 equipped bike for weeks without the ebrakes while I convert the bike from Hydraulic brakes to mechanical brakes, so I know system works without the E-brakes plugged in.

In other words, if the connection from the brakes is "open" then the motor works. When the Ebrake switch is working correctly, the switch will be "open" (not connected) when you are NOT squeezing the brakes. The switch makes contact when the brakes are squeezed.
If you have an ohm meter you can probably test the throttle.

Good luck
 
leelorr said:
If you had to disconnect the E-brakes to make the motor start that means that on at least one of the brakes the switch is making contact. You could plug them one at a time to see which one, assuming that they are both not doing it.
I just tried each of the brakes plug into each of the yellow higo leads, one at a time. Brake lever not pressed. Motor doesn't start. Could it be that without the brake cable attached, the mechanical sensor is not activated so it deactivates the system?

In any case I need to order hidden-wire brake sensors so I can use my existing cantilever brakes.

I do have a multimeter, but I don't know what or how to test in the throttle. It would be valuable information though, in case the problem is not within the throttle itself.
 
I'm getting a few Aussie customers contacting me after several months complaining of left crank squeaks. Its a failure to tighten the new left crank properly and is also very common in unpowered bikes over the same run-in period.

As a result I am greasing lightly all my left cranks before fitting to ensure the square-fit taper draws all the way up onto the BBS' spindle. Greasing seemed odd to me, but its what many old bike mechanics do for non-powered bikes. It works.

When a soft aluminium crank is damaged its almost impossible to tighten and consider it fixed. Take off a squeaking left crank and take a look - it becomes obvious.

To that end, I have plenty of spare cranks due to the number of customer cranks I fit back onto the install. So if you have damaged cranks PM me and I can send you a free pair if you cover postage.

The standard install manual does specify a crank torque for left and right, but if it pointed this out more specifically (and the error 21 due to poor magnet mounting) many of my customer install enquiries would disappear.

I now tell all my customers to look out for these two things before starting to install. It's working well.

Sam.
 
I've used a rubber mallet to seat the crank arms into the spindle, then torque down the locking bolt w/blue loctite. Seems to keep the arms solidly in place.

I've just switched my BBS system to an Electra Townie 7speed and it fits well. :idea: It may actually fit within the frame if one were to cut out the chain guard mounting tab, not sure though. But it does fit normally, very well. FYI, don't expect an uphill/downhill bomber from this model. :wink:
 
This is common for all square taper cranks. I see the same thing in bicycle forums. Most people don't have a torque wrench, and 40 Nm seems like a lot, and is nearly mpossible to achieve with a regular allen wrench.
 
melodious said:
I've used a rubber mallet to seat the crank arms into the spindle, then torque down the locking bolt w/blue loctite. Seems to keep the arms solidly in place.

I've just switched my BBS system to an Electra Townie 7speed and it fits well. :idea: It may actually fit within the frame if one were to cut out the chain guard mounting tab, not sure though. But it does fit normally, very well. FYI, don't expect an uphill/downhill bomber from this model. :wink:


I think the Townie, Pure, Smoothie, and all crank forward frames make the ideal BBS0x platforms. I've now installed BBS on sixe flat foot frames. All are uber comfortable rides. A lowly BBS01 will cruise at 25 without much problem. A 48T chainwheel cinches it. 52T adds a bit more, but rider better pay attention to stress and heat before running 52/11. Definitely do not start out without down shifting. The upright position makes long riders very easy and traffic view ans awareness from that position is the best of any bike IMO.
 
I would like to see a electric rear derailleur, setup to run automatic tranny like through the controller/ programing! 8) Econo mode, normal drive, sport settings through the pas settings on the display. You could then program a bit of throttle off during shifts. Auto down shift as the speed decreases /come to a stop. Never in the wrong gear.

If we keep this stuff up, we may just put a man on the moon some day. :lol:
 
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