New Bafang Crank-Drives

speedmd said:
I would like to see a electric rear derailleur, setup to run automatic tranny like through the controller/ programing! 8) Econo mode, normal drive, sport settings through the pas settings on the display. You could then program a bit of throttle off during shifts. Auto down shift as the speed decreases /come to a stop. Never in the wrong gear.

If we keep this stuff up, we may just put a man on the moon some day. :lol:


Have you seen the FAG Velomatic?

http://www.fag-velosolutions.com/en_velomatic.html
 
Not seen the FAG. I bit behind putting all the technology/ mechanical workings just to pull cables and use old tech derailleurs. Cool if affordable. Still would like to see a more universal tranny setup with current DI electronic shifting. Tie heart rate / power metering into it and you could bridge the lycra crowd also into the technology.
 
Trying to diagnose a new issue after 1000 miles. When I let off the throttle there is a very loud clicK/clank noise. The unit still seems to work just fine. I have dissasembled it and regreased everything. The countersunk bolts on the back of the freewheel are still tight. Not sure what is causing it. Push the throttle, bike goes, no noise, let off the throttle, 70% of the time there is a very loud click/clank. 30% of the time there is initially no click, but as soon as I move the pedals the click/clank happens. My best guess is that the internals of the free wheel are starting to fail? Anyone have this issue?
 
LyonNightroad said:
Trying to diagnose a new issue after 1000 miles. When I let off the throttle there is a very loud clicK/clank noise. The unit still seems to work just fine. I have dissasembled it and regreased everything. The countersunk bolts on the back of the freewheel are still tight. Not sure what is causing it. Push the throttle, bike goes, no noise, let off the throttle, 70% of the time there is a very loud click/clank. 30% of the time there is initially no click, but as soon as I move the pedals the click/clank happens. My best guess is that the internals of the free wheel are starting to fail? Anyone have this issue?

Check the large nuts holding it to the bottom bracket. Mine would start making clanking noises when it loosened, as it was both moving inside the bottom bracket and bumping against the down tube.
 
My favorite tool. I like to "prefright" my rides at least weekly. This has been the perfect tool and has become a favorite bit of kit. I can buzz through a complete fastener review in 10 minutes with every fastener bit at immediate hand.

Every size needed for all BBS01 parts and assessors on my bike as well as all hex heads on the KHS bike. One tool and small bananas coming soon.

Topeak The Mini 9-Function Bicycle Tool

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FIE49A/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=30923220861&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5430180566487012103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_447locgnow_e
 

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LyonNightroad said:
Trying to diagnose a new issue after 1000 miles. When I let off the throttle there is a very loud clicK/clank noise. The unit still seems to work just fine. I have dissasembled it and regreased everything. The countersunk bolts on the back of the freewheel are still tight. Not sure what is causing it. Push the throttle, bike goes, no noise, let off the throttle, 70% of the time there is a very loud click/clank. 30% of the time there is initially no click, but as soon as I move the pedals the click/clank happens. My best guess is that the internals of the free wheel are starting to fail? Anyone have this issue?
Could you please stop using some huge fontsize?
 
Test drive
Motor: Bafang bbs02 750 watt 25 A
Display: C965a Display (controller)
Bike: Haro extreme x6 2007
Battery: 48V (51V) samsung 18650 cells

[youtube]nfzQ1uMVFVw[/youtube]
 
Looks a bit slow on the hillclimb Rimo. What tooth count do you have on the rear top gear?
 
tomcortijo said:
I just wanted to tell you guys. I have a BBS02 (manufactured june 2014).

After 2500 miles (crossing America on my bike, and still on the road trying to get to Maine before the snow).

- Makes a awful lot of noise, specially after it rains (every time it rains I squeeze tons of oil into it)
- Burnt my connecting (battery cable, the black one) it took only 10 minutes to fix
- The throttle still pushes strong (and i can pedal on top of it)
- The assist doesn't do much and it sometimes gets stuck.

I'll keep posting until the motor dies! I have a spare and I want to make 6k miles. I am hoping this motor will make it another 500 miles until i have to use the spare!

I hope that helps!!


3,000 miles would hardly seem a ringing endorsement. Nor making a lot of noise at 2500. :(
 
2600 miles (4200km) of pretty much daily use. Am going to strip and lube sometime soon. Seems to be going well as a commuter for me.
 
Hi Guys.

I have a 36v 500w bafang that has done about 2000klm in 12 months.
I ride a 25k one way commute each morning and the battery no longer last the distance.
Assuming the issue is the battery and not the extra inefficiency in the motor, i am looking for a new battery.
I currently have a 36v 10ah lithium from TNA Battery, the one that mounts tot he bottle holder.

Does any one know if the 5002 36v bafang motor and controller will take a 48v battery? or what i need to do to make it work?
Also if anyone is in Australia and has made their one battery configurations I would love to hear form you, maybe work out a deal and buy some thing from you.

Thanks
 
It doesnt work with a 48v I'm afraid. PM me if you need battery options.
 
krunchi said:
Hi Guys.

I have a 36v 500w bafang that has done about 2000klm in 12 months.
I ride a 25k one way commute each morning and the battery no longer last the distance.
Assuming the issue is the battery and not the extra inefficiency in the motor, i am looking for a new battery.
I currently have a 36v 10ah lithium from TNA Battery, the one that mounts tot he bottle holder.

Does any one know if the 5002 36v bafang motor and controller will take a 48v battery? or what i need to do to make it work?
Also if anyone is in Australia and has made their one battery configurations I would love to hear form you, maybe work out a deal and buy some thing from you.

Thanks
You have all the luck. I have a battery from Sam's bunch and it's a score. Double score for you being near the maestro himself. I'd get a 16Ah or such and make that ride without a sweat. I've also seen a charge at work option that is brilliant!
 
In theory if i have the 500w 36v bafang my current battery is 36v discharged and 42 volt charged.
If that is the case i can buy 2 x 5s lipos and run them in parallel and still have the
right discharge voltage profile for the controller?
Does that sound adequate guys?
 
Yes for sure, although I suggest you run at least two in parallel if you are running 5ah bricks or less.
Lots of people using multistars it seems as 2x6s bricks.
 
will 6s be too much as in the 36v controller will cutt off too late and may go spastic with the extra charged voltage?
 
My BBS02 is from paul@em3ev and has a 14s triangle battery. Which renders the battery gauge on the c965 display "useless".

I saw this italian company claiming they can modify/reprogramm the c965 for 11s.

Anybody knows how the display can be modified/reprogrammed (dor 14s in my case)

http://www.ebikeclub.it/shop/it/accessori/40-modifica-display-c965.html
 
I think I saw some concerns that it was difficult to obtain new controllers for the BBS0x.

Here's an italian company that seems to be selling them: http://www.ebikeclub.it/shop/it/10-accessori?
 
No loss from my perspective. The C965 and every other version is essentially useless for any decent battery management or even monitoring. The Kepler adaptation of the CA2.3 seems the only nearly useful battery management/information display. I have a shunt ann CA3 on one of my BBS01 bikes but it's not really a good integration but it does give me useful battery information. If anyone figures out a way to integrate the Cycle Analyst, either with the Bafang controller or an external controller we'd have a real tool. So far I've not been able to goals any how to on an external controller. An external controller and possible Cycle Analyst integration really enthuses me.
 
The trip meter tends to be my fuel gauge, I know my 12s 10ah lipo's will take me 22 lazy miles (35km) so I reset the trip at every charge, this then tells me how far I've got left in the battery.
A bit basic I know, but it works well enough for me - I suspect many others use a similar method. You can always back this up with a cheapo bike computer if you don't trust the Bafang display..
 
geofft said:
The trip meter tends to be my fuel gauge, I know my 12s 10ah lipo's will take me 22 lazy miles (35km) so I reset the trip at every charge, this then tells me how far I've got left in the battery.
A bit basic I know, but it works well enough for me - I suspect many others use a similar method. You can always back this up with a cheapo bike computer if you don't trust the Bafang display..
Same here. But if there's a quick in for the display, always nice to know/have.
 
geofft said:
The trip meter tends to be my fuel gauge, I know my 12s 10ah lipo's will take me 22 lazy miles (35km) so I reset the trip at every charge, this then tells me how far I've got left in the battery.
A bit basic I know, but it works well enough for me - I suspect many others use a similar method. You can always back this up with a cheapo bike computer if you don't trust the Bafang display..

Exactly, and coupled with the bars remaining on the display, plus the slight drop in motor performance, it's easy enough to tell when it's time to head home :wink:
 
opperpanter said:
Anybody knows anything about these new "Max Drive" middenvelder from Bafang?

http://www.szbaf.com/
It looks like it's for OEM as it uses a proprietary frame.
 
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