New Bafang Crank-Drives

[samsavvas]

Guys, I think I may have found my new bike to bafangnize...Please let me know what you guys think. Mostly riding this bike to work in clean bike lanes and the beach. But want to focus on weight reduction and top speed (30mph+) with the 750w/48v. Is this a good candidate for the bbs-02?
I need to check that the bottom bracket is going to be compatible though. Plus, not sure if my LBS carries this model in stock.

Really, if you want to buy a new bike to put the BBSxx on, I wouldn't look at any of the ones you linked to. Mainly because they are carbon or (I presume) aluminium. Call me behind-the-times but I feel that if you are going to add extra stress to a frame from a motor drive, then you need to go with the strongest and most resilient material available from the start. Since most of us can't afford titanium, the next best alternative (in my book) is good old cro-moly steel. I'd just get a nice lightweight cromo bike to start with. It may be a bit flexible but it won't break up under you and try to kill you. And once the average human sits on a bike, the weight of the frame and components is reasonably immaterial.

My opinion anyway!

Savvas.

 

[amigafan2003]

Guys, I think I may have found my new bike to bafangnize...Please let me know what you guys think. Mostly riding this bike to work in clean bike lanes and the beach. But want to focus on weight reduction and top speed (30mph+) with the 750w/48v. Is this a good candidate for the bbs-02?
I need to check that the bottom bracket is going to be compatible though. Plus, not sure if my LBS carries this model in stock.

Really, if you want to buy a new bike to put the BBSxx on, I wouldn't look at any of the ones you linked to. Mainly because they are carbon or (I presume) aluminium. Call me behind-the-times but I feel that if you are going to add extra stress to a frame from a motor drive, then you need to go with the strongest and most resilient material available from the start. Since most of us can't afford titanium, the next best alternative (in my book) is good old cro-moly steel. I'd just get a nice lightweight cromo bike to start with. It may be a bit flexible but it won't break up under you and try to kill you. And once the average human sits on a bike, the weight of the frame and components is reasonably immaterial.

My opinion anyway!

Savvas.

It's a myth steel frames are stronger than cf or allow frames.

How many steel DH bikes do you see on the world cup circuit?

 

[TroySmith80]

There's a few common misconceptions here.

I suspect that any of the frame types will have no problem with the extra stress of the BBS unless you're already a very large person and you're on a race-grade bike.

Carbon can ride stiffer than aluminum, or softer, it depends on how the carbon is laid up and designed. One of the nice things about carbon is that you can get it to behave in different ways in different parts of the frame by the way you build it. In other words, it can be very stiff in some ways and more forgiving in others. That said, ANY bike rides rough unless it has suspension, a suspension seatpost or at least a springer seat.

What racers use (in almost any sport) has little to do with what will or won't work for consumers, because racers' equipment is serviced and replaced so frequently. It may be true that a race bike frame would break after a year or two of repeated stress from use with a high power e-kit even though world class riders can use the same frame for a few races.

I believe there are press-fit to threaded bb adapters available, try a google search. In fact, i think some were posted earlier in the thread, good luck finding them.

I'd spend less money on a carbon frame and more money on a nice drivetrain, brakes and panniers, lights, comfortable riding clothes, etc. Whatever you get, make sure it can accept fenders.

 

[Warren]

Any of the more expensive roadbikes are going to have the newest/greatest/most expensive, and ironically, cheapest to produce, fat, press-in bottom bracket. The 21st century version of the 19th century Ashtabula bottom bracket is OK, but won't work with your Bafang.

For the weight and speed of an e-assist, I'd want a touring frame. The longer chainstays will help with the Bafang's poor chainline, and the longer wheelbase will help with bumps, and stability. Also, last time I was looking, you could still get a decent touring bike with an old-school, bottom bracket.

 

[d8veh]

I spoke with the guys from 8fun today. They said that the problems are all sorted now and they're back in production with the crank-drive motors.

 

[teslanv]

I spoke with the guys from 8fun today. They said that the problems are all sorted now and they're back in production with the crank-drive motors.

Great news!

 

[speedmd]

It is not the frame material or bb threading / press fit interface that is of issue, but it is the thickness of the shell that will not allow it.

 

[TroySmith80]

Ahh, good point. So even with a press fit to threaded adapter, it still would not fit. Thank you for pointing that out.

My favorite thing to do is find an old mountain bike for cheap on craigslist, then put nicer parts on it. You wind up with a very comfortable and capable bike, with nice components and great versatility. Plenty of room for wide comfy tires, fenders, often disc brakes, etc. I always look for steel frames because i like to braze racks and gadgets onto the frame, but if you're not doing that then aluminum is just fine.

 

[Rusty123]

Guys, I think I may have found my new bike to bafangnize .

If I were looking to buy a new bike to convert to electric, I'd lean towards just buying an electric bike, probably with the Bosch drive unit. Like these:

http://www.electricbike.com/bosch-cannondale/
http://www.feltbicycles.com/International/2014/Bikes/ebike/QXe-Men/QXe-85-EQ.aspx
http://www.haibike.de/produkte_detail_en,3009,20501,detail.html
http://www.bosch-ebike.de/en/produkte_neu/marken_2/alle_marken_1/alle_marken_1.html

 

[amigafan2003]

If I were looking to buy a new bike to convert to electric, I'd lean towards just buying an electric bike, probably with the Bosch drive unit. Like these:

Or do you own for half the cost?

 

[Rusty123]

If I were looking to buy a new bike to convert to electric, I'd lean towards just buying an electric bike, probably with the Bosch drive unit. Like these:

Or do you own for half the cost?

True, but if cost is an issue, why buy a new bike to start with, when there are millions of perfectly suitable used bikes collecting dust in garages and sheds around the world?

 

[t3sla]

If I were looking to buy a new bike to convert to electric, I'd lean towards just buying an electric bike, probably with the Bosch drive unit. Like these:

Or do you own for half the cost?

You can't compare the BBS01 with the Bosch system, that's like running with numb feet.

The new OEM bafang system is another story, I prefer it to my Gen 1 Bosch at the highest power level
Lower speeds / cadence is another story and the domestic torque sensors can't compete with German FAG sensor Bosch use and the next gen is shaping up to be even better.

Also a third party supplier had developed a contraption to assist in cutting power when changing gear, I was meant to have a meeting with them today I'll post up some info about it after I talk with them.

 

[tomjasz]

Guys, I think I may have found my new bike to bafangnize .

If I were looking to buy a new bike to convert to electric, I'd lean towards just buying an electric bike, probably with the Bosch drive unit. Like these:

http://www.electricbike.com/bosch-cannondale/
http://www.feltbicycles.com/International/2014/Bikes/ebike/QXe-Men/QXe-85-EQ.aspx
http://www.haibike.de/produkte_detail_en,3009,20501,detail.html
http://www.bosch-ebike.de/en/produkte_neu/marken_2/alle_marken_1/alle_marken_1.html

Which one is available to buy in the USA?

 

[nukezero]

Ok guys, I guess I'm leaning towards the Crosstrail Comp Disc from Specialized. I'm not a brand whore, I actually don't know much about bikes. Road vs. touring etc. All I know is that, I don't want those extreme road bikes where I have to arch my bike forward the entire time. I want a simple, light-weight bike, easy handling, low drag, and can carry a couple grocery bags on each handlebar. Disc brakes and and hold the bafang mid drive. At the same time, my last bike didn't have front shocks and I felt that was a mistake. I had 2 bikes in my life with front shocks and 2 without. I'm definitely going to make sure I get a bike with shocks again because of the strain on my hands when I impact potholes and curb ramps.

Anyways, i'm 30 yr old and 155lb. I've never owned a 700c tire bike. I'm hoping that the 700x38c tire @ 25-30mph will be comfortable, paired with a front shock. I've always owned 16 inch bike, when I was little, mountain bikes, and general recreational bikes (Electra), and beach cruisers. But I think it's time I try something different in my life, like a new lady one would say.

Also, a lot of these bikes don't have internal routing for the deraileur/rear brakes. The cables are directly underneath the downtube. As a result, there is no way I could mount the mid-drive kit then because it would press against the cables. Therefore, my selection for choices of bikes gets more limited as I have to target slightly higher end bikes with internal cable routing. But I like internal cable routing anyways.

 

[tomjasz]

Fitted a BBS01 to my wife's new Yuba Mundo last night, rear wheel sensor lead was barely long enough - had to rotate the unit down in the BB shell to make it reach. Anyone had experience with lengthening the rear sensor lead?

http://www.greenbikekit.com/accessories/bafang-mid-crank-driven-kit-speed-sensor-cable.html

I got a couple with an order at that price...

Shipping on one brings it to $11USD, OK by me.

EDIT OOPS $11 in shipping each additional was an additional $11 in shipping. WTF? I was gonna grab a few and offer them. Not today... :x

 

[nukezero]

Okay, I'm itching to plunk down some money on this bike... do you guys think this is a good bike for the mid-drive conversion? Is that chainstay long enough?
Sorry for the long post, but trying to narrow down on a commutable, tourable, comfortable, and mid-drive converter bike. I sold my old bike and I've got nothing to ride on

I would consider the Trek's... 8.4, 8.5's which are popular in socal, but the problem is they don't have internal cable routing....

FRAME
Specialized M4 Premium Aluminum, double-butted w/ smooth welds, fender/rack braze-ons, forged dropouts, kickstand mount
SWAT
REAR SHOCK
FORK
SR Suntour NCXi Coil, magnesium lower, custom integrated fork crown, hydraulic lockout, 50mm travel
HEADSET
1-1/8" FSA Campy style, integrated cartridge, 8mm alloy cone spacer
STEM
Specialized 3D forged alloy, 10-degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBARS
Specialized flat bar, double-butted alloy, 10-degree backsweep, 31.8mm
GRIPS
Specialized Body Geometry XCT, dual compound, lock-on
FRONT BRAKE
Shimano BR-M446, hydraulic disc, dual piston, 160mm rotor
REAR BRAKE
Shimano BR-M446, hydraulic disc, dual piston, 160mm rotor
BRAKE LEVERS
Shimano, hydraulic lever
FRONT DERAILLEUR
SRAM X7, top-swing, dual-pull
REAR DERAILLEUR
SRAM X7, 10-speed
SHIFT LEVERS
SRAM SL-500, 10-speed
CASSETTE
SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36
CHAIN
KMC X10
CRANKSET
SRAM S-620, 48/32, 10-speed
CHAINRINGS
48/32
BOTTOM BRACKET
SRAM Power Spline
PEDALS
Alloy, loose ball, w/ reflectors
RIMS
Alloy double-wall, sleeved rim, 32h
FRONT HUB
Disc, Hi Lo flange, machined disc side, loose ball, dual-lock nuts w/ 19mm contact side, QR
REAR HUB
Disc, Hi Lo flange, machined disc mount, double-sealed, loose ball, ground race, dual-lock nuts w/ 19mm contact side, QR
SPOKES
FRONT TIRE
Specialized Trigger Sport, 60TPI, wire bead, 700x38c
REAR TIRE
Specialized Trigger Sport, 60TPI, wire bead, 700x38c
INNER TUBES
Standard presta valve
SADDLE
Body Geometry Targa Comp, Cr-Mo rails, 155mm
SEATPOST
Alloy, 2-bolt, 12.5mm offset, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER
Alloy, 31.8mm
NOTES

 

[teslanv]

nukezero: The only challenge I see with that set-up is connecting the Bafang ebrakes to the bike's hydro brake system. - Has anyone sourced a compatible brake sensor to fit the Bafang Wiring harness, or does this need to be "hacked"? I would NOT recommend putting the BBS0X kit on without an ebrake.

 

[nukezero]

nukezero: The only challenge I see with that set-up is connecting the Bafang ebrakes to the bike's hydro brake system. - Has anyone sourced a compatible brake sensor to fit the Bafang Wiring harness, or does this need to be "hacked"? I would NOT recommend putting the BBS0X kit on without an ebrake.

Well what if I told the bike shop, rip out those hydralic brakes and give me the Tektro e-comp which HAS the e-brake signal? I think the LBS should be able to do that for me no? Then I would just splice off the bafang e-cable wire and solder it back in together?

If the LBS does not obliged, I can always buy the Tektro E-comp myself and install it myself no?

and yes, I agree with you wholeheartedly 100%, that it's best to have the ebrake cutoff. My girlfriend has this townie with the 36v kit and when we were riding I was helping her pull up the bike, but I yanked the throttle and the bike lunged forward up in the air. Luckily, the crappo wuxing levers stopped it.

 

[teslanv]

Or ask for Mechanical disc brakes, and then it's super simple to install the Standard Bafang Ebrakes.

 

[tomjasz]

Any preferred models of disc brakes? I'm having a new wheel Alex DM24 built for the back with a drum brake. I'd like to upgrade and have a matching wheel built with a disc rather than pad front.

 

[Warren]

nukezero,

Be sure to get video, when you ride your new e-bike at 30 mph with a grocery bag hanging off each handlebar.

 

[teslanv]

Any preferred models of disc brakes? I'm having a new wheel Alex DM24 built for the back with a drum brake. I'd like to upgrade and have a matching wheel built with a disc rather than pad front.

https://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb7-mountain-mechanical-disc-brake

 

[tomjasz]

Thanks another dumb idea and learning curve.

 

[nukezero]

nukezero,

Be sure to get video, when you ride your new e-bike at 30 mph with a grocery bag hanging off each handlebar.

I sure will!


I just came back from the LBS. Test rode the Specialized bike above. I wasn't impressed The suspension fork was quite shitty. It was real wonky. I'm so depressed. A bike that costs over $1000 bike seems to perform worse than my older $500 Townie Electra.

Then I tried their Specialized Sirrus line, one with just carbon fork and alum frame, and one with full carbon. Wow, the carbon fork definitely absorbed a lot of vibrations. I didn't feel a significant difference when riding both but full carbon was definitely 8-10lb lighter. However, that doesn't justify double the price tag. So I might consider just a alum frame or cromoly frame with a carbon fork now.

 

[nukezero]

How about this bike? Will the bottom bracket work? It is fully carbon, by diamond back. A relatively low price of $1200. Diamondback is owned by Raleigh, and I used to have a diamondback in my childhood days. Great bike, until somebody stole it out of my garage. I was pissed for a couple days...

This is the best picture I have of the bottom bracket. I cannot tell. But my understanding is that, I would simply replace the BB with some sort of press-fit adapter bearing. Then I would slide the bbs-02 into it?? But there needs to be enough clearance between the base of the bottom bracket to the center of the shaft?

This bike is not yet released, (due May 2014)... But it is so far the cheapest all carbon bike and initial reviews seems to be good.