New Bafang Crank-Drives

Just got my kit! Excited to build.

Are the brake levers standard-reach (road brakes, cantis, or avid road discs) or long-reach (linear-pull or mountain disc)?

What are people doing re:brakes right now? Is the cutoff useful to have?
 
zuumzuum,

"Are the brake levers standard-reach....or long-reach"

Probably long reach. Measure from the handle pivot to the cable attach point. Standard pull is typically under an inch. Long pull is typically over an inch. Some levers are sort of in the middle and "work" on both.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/travel-agent
 
On low powered drives like these, brake cutoffs are included more for a compliance point of view then usefulness. I have used them with this drive and found the made very little difference to the riding experience. I would suggest if you have stock Vee brakes on the bike, they can be of some benefit however with the stopping power of Hydros, I wouldn't even bother trying to convert the ebrake hall switch into them as the hydro stopping power has no problems overriding the the push from the drive in an emergency stopping situation.
 
I would recommend using the brake cutoffs. There are certain situations where having the motor kick in is undesireable. One example I often encounter is when pedaling super slow while following a line of cars through a stop sign (just a little faster than a trackstand). It's normal in this situation to keep the brakes slightly engaged and use the pedals to maintain balance -- without the brake cutoff, the motor would engage whenever the PAS triggers. Not good.
 
Do all the BBS0x kits come with the same display unit? For some reason i got the idea in my head that there were a couple different ones. If there are, what are the differences and is one preferable to the other?
 
Rusty123 said:
I would recommend using the brake cutoffs. There are certain situations where having the motor kick in is undesireable. One example I often encounter is when pedaling super slow while following a line of cars through a stop sign (just a little faster than a trackstand). It's normal in this situation to keep the brakes slightly engaged and use the pedals to maintain balance -- without the brake cutoff, the motor would engage whenever the PAS triggers. Not good.

A lot of PAS systems do this. Every bike i've ridden with PAS had this problem.

So usually end up tearing out the sensor and going with a throttle.
 
neptronix said:
Rusty123 said:
I would recommend using the brake cutoffs. There are certain situations where having the motor kick in is undesireable. One example I often encounter is when pedaling super slow while following a line of cars through a stop sign (just a little faster than a trackstand). It's normal in this situation to keep the brakes slightly engaged and use the pedals to maintain balance -- without the brake cutoff, the motor would engage whenever the PAS triggers. Not good.

A lot of PAS systems do this. Every bike i've ridden with PAS had this problem.

So usually end up tearing out the sensor and going with a throttle.

When Kepler reassemble my cooked motor l asked him to do a loop on the sensor positive wire. I put a switch to this loop and never look back. I can increase my range by 50% not having PAS. Done 1200km with this setup. When lm lazy l switch the PAS on.
 
Hi!
My setup is finally completed!
13601681955_57ef78298d.jpg

I did also a short test drive about 20km. The bike provides about the same power output in the boost mode than I had in the Magic Pie 3 kit. I'm quite happy of performance. I asked to remove the speed limit but they didn't (talked with Amy). Anyways it looks like the motor is not able to pass through 40 km/h with 46T chain ring and 8-speed cassette...

I found these levels:
- in eco mode: avg speed about 20km/h, power about 100-150W
- in tour mode: avg speed about 25 km/h, power about 150-250W
- in boost mode: avg speed about 35 km/h, power about 250 - 400W

The Magic Pie 3 kit was more powerful than this one but the 8Fun is so much better because of it's very light and better weight ratio! Please, check more photos in my ebike set:https://www.flickr.com/photos/61071130@N06/sets/72157632696804684/

-rado
 
radoCol said:
Anyways it looks like the motor is not able to pass through 40 km/h with 46T chain ring and 8-speed cassette... :

Have you changed the display setting to give you all 9 assist levels? The extra 6 levels are all more powerful than the standard 3.

My bike does 50km/h on the throttle in assist mode 9.

They probably have removed the speed limit on your unit - it's just you're power limited in the lower assist levels. Speed limit is also user configurable in the display - up to 50km/h.
 
amigafan2003 said:
radoCol said:
Anyways it looks like the motor is not able to pass through 40 km/h with 46T chain ring and 8-speed cassette... :

Have you changed the display setting to give you all 9 assist levels? The extra 6 levels are all more powerful than the standard 3.

My bike does 50km/h on the throttle in assist mode 9.

They probably have removed the speed limit on your unit - it's just you're power limited in the lower assist levels. Speed limit is also user configurable in the display - up to 50km/h.

Hi,

I have the C963 display, is it possible to change levels on this one as well? I did another test drive and the kit feels super smooth. It becomes a second nature to use two hand shifting. I use my left hand to engage the brake lever (not braking) and with the right hand to do shifting at the same time. I can also do "braking" if I don't want assistance. What a great kit! I can drive 40km/h and the power never goes up to 400W. That's amazing...

I have to check my setting again, thanks for the tip!

-rado

-rado
 
radoCol said:
Hi,

I have the C963 display, is it possible to change levels on this one as well? I did another test drive and the kit feels super smooth. It becomes a second nature to use two hand shifting. I use my left hand to engage the brake lever (not braking) and with the right hand to do shifting at the same time. I can also do "braking" if I don't want assistance. What a great kit! I can drive 40km/h and the power never goes up to 400W. That's amazing...

I have to check my setting again, thanks for the tip!

-rado

-rado

Yes.

To access the advanced settings from the general settings zone, you hold both + and - down and press power 8 times.

Manual for C963 - http://www.bike-emotion.org/downloads/manual-of-c963.pdf
 
amigafan2003 said:
TroySmith80 said:
Ok, so there's a C961 and C963. Is either preferable over the other, and why?

The C963 adds a watt readout.

In my opinion, the C963 with the Watt Read-out doesn't provide much additional advantage, since I don't believe it include a watt-hour "odometer" - Just instantaneous watts. Nor Does it include Battery Voltage.

I have to wonder "Why Bother, Bafang?"
 
I'd still rather see the wattage than not. Watt-hour in addition would be great, but either is better than nothing.

Amigafan said: "Have you changed the display setting to give you all 9 assist levels? The extra 6 levels are all more powerful than the standard 3."

does it really work that way? I thought it took the total available power and divides it among however many assist levels you have. So if you have 9 levels then 3=1/3 power and 9=100% and if you have 3 levels then level 1=1/3 power and 3=100%.

11 is one louder then, in't it? (#SpinalTap)
 
Hi,
I did better water protection for the C963 display:
13616575503_f73a05b643.jpg

I know it's not pretty but that's the idea. Thefts don't like ugly stuff... :lol:
I used silicone and tape...

-rado
 
Hi,
Another photo for you...
13601678515_3a688808b5.jpg

In my bike the Trek Marlin there is a 73mm bottom bracket so the offset is difficult for the chain wheel. I can't use my lowest gear (biggest cog) on the back because the chain drops off if I use the big cog on the back (8-speed cassette). I adjusted the front guide to make a stop for the chain and making some noise, it's is also a warning sound for me to avoid the lowest gear. I also found that in my bike it's not possible to use the 48T chain wheel because of the back support for the tire so wide.

So make your measurements before ordering, I did and ordered 46T...

-rado
 
TroySmith80 said:
I'd still rather see the wattage than not. Watt-hour in addition would be great, but either is better than nothing.

Amigafan said: "Have you changed the display setting to give you all 9 assist levels? The extra 6 levels are all more powerful than the standard 3."

does it really work that way?

Yes.

I thought it took the total available power and divides it among however many assist levels you have. So if you have 9 levels then 3=1/3 power and 9=100% and if you have 3 levels then level 1=1/3 power and 3=100%.

No.
 
Pretty sure there's a solution for this, but having trouble finding it:

Is there a mod kit available to use the BBS02 kit with hydraulic disc brakes?
 
teslanv said:
Pretty sure there's a solution for this, but having trouble finding it:

Is there a mod kit available to use the BBS02 kit with hydraulic disc brakes?

Just disassemble one of the switches and araldite the sensor and a magnet somewhere convenient, like I've done:

IMAG0569_zpsrkrdtfxa.jpg


It's just a hall sensor so any decent size magnet should suffice.
 
Hello, I have the right programming software from BAFANG ( http://ulozto.cz/x1zej9PD/software8fun-zipp ) I guess and also some connection diagram from them but it does nothing if I connect in proper way. Any idea, what might be wrong? I did connected the green connector which leads to the motor(controller) but if I connect device like this http://aukro.cz/show_item.php?item=4104897828 it shows no Port in software and does nothing. thx T@m
 

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Electorbikes said:
Hello, I have the right programming software from BAFANG I guess and also some connection diagram from them but it does nothing if I connect in proper way. Any idea, what might be wrong? I did connected the green connector which leads to the motor(controller) but if I connect device like this http://aukro.cz/show_item.php?item=4104897828 it shows no Port in software and did nothing. thx T@m

Looks like the typical TTL serial cable that Tom L was trying to connect up.

http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBTTLSerial.htm
 
Electorbikes said:
... but it does nothing if I connect in proper way. Any idea, what might be wrong?
In the network box on the right of the BAFANG software GUI there is a drop down box labelled "Port:" which is probably blank. If it is blank this is the problem.

Even though it is a drop down box you can type in it. Open Windows Device Manager and look for the section that says Port (Com & LPT). In that section you should see several things like yyyyyyyyyyyy (COMx) where "y" is a string that describes a device and "x" is a number. You need to find the entry from the USB serial device you have plugged in. When you think you have identified the correct one, try unplugging it and see if it goes away then comes back when you plug it back in. You need to know the number represented by "x". Then go back to the Bafang software and in the box labelled "Port:" type "COMx" replacing x by the number. It will then talk to the Bafang controller.
Electorbikes said:
I did connected the green connector which leads to the motor(controller) ....
Where did you get the green connector? A lot of people have been looking for where you can buy these.

On a related topic, everyone who is interested in motor/controller behaviour ought to play with this software because many of the claims I read on here are software setting dependant and have no generality. If two people have different settings they will see different behaviour and there is a lot in this controller that is configurable. For example TroySmith80 and amigafan2003 are debating PAS assist level behaviour in http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&start=1900#p875399 . It is quite likely their controller settings are different and when Amigafan said:
"Have you changed the display setting to give you all 9 assist levels? The extra 6 levels are all more powerful than the standard 3."
and TroySmith80 replied:
"does it really work that way?"
that it does work that way for amigafan but not for Troysmith80. Delay after ceasing pedalling before motor stops is configurable, throttle ramp is configurable, throttle can control speed or current, whether power is proportional to cadence is configurable, PAS ramp is configurable, throttle signal minimum and maximum, etc. Most discussions ought to specify the software settings they are using to be meaningful to others. The problem for most is they don't know what settings their controller has. Just playing with the software gives insight into the possibilities.

Lectric Cycles offers to supply units with custom programming at no additional charge http://lectriccycles.com/blogs/news/10345441-custom-programming-available-on-mid-drive-kits but unless you experiment with the software it would be difficult to know what to ask for, even then you might want to change settings after you have tried a particular configuration. For a dealer there would be value add in configuring motors for retail customers because most people wouldn't understand what behaviour they want or what settings to get it.
 
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