New Bafang Crank-Drives

Kepler said:
Spot on post neptronix.

My Lycra buddies still give me a hard time about electrics even though I can out ride most of them on my unassisted road bike. Its so hard to get the point across and to get it to sink in. Some good points for me use on the next round of discussions.
Yes, but the joy of an electric is you can go from "I can out ride most of them" to "I can out ride out ride them all" and it requires bugger all assist. I use the argument, "I want to be like Lance but a testicle is too much to sacrifice". Perhaps that is another point you could use to help convince your Lycra buddies. See What Would It Take To Cycle Fast When You Can't? http://blog.urremote.com/2012/12/what-would-it-take-to-cycle-fast-when.html
 
tomjasz said:
Done. Read every word, some twice. My kit is ordered today. EM3ec's 36V 350W BBS01, 36V 13.8Ah battery, with switched charger with switch charge to 90% option. What a long strange well this has been. Now for a new wheel rear hub w/roller brakes. (as soon as scooter sells)

Dumb stuff edited out. :oops:

I also ordered a switched charger but apparently it does not work the Samsung batteries. Paul should be touch re this and he has told me a refund for the difference will be coming once the postage is finalised.

Andrew
 
If the battery is the newer style frame mount rectangular style then it has an input protection circuit on the BMS for the charge port, instead of just a simple fuse. You can not read the battery voltage at the charge port on these batteries and the HP style chargers in the aluminium case with fan will not switch ON when connected to these batteries.
The same goes for the newer FreeGo batteries that have the black plastic case.
 
ziltoid81 said:
The biggest question here is your cadence......the 48v (750w) version spins much faster.

36V-350w ~ 82rpm max @ 36V
48v-750w ~ 112rpm max @ 48V

Take the version that will match your cadence.

I'm able to push the 350W Kit to around 49km/h with a lot of pedaling......i dont need it to be faster.

I'm in the situation where the cadence in tour mode is perfect (750W kit and three assist levels:eco/tour/boost). However my speed is limited in tour mode to the 30 km/h (I usually go 28 km/h). Sometimes the road is good or I have plenty of back wind --> I have to switch to the boost mode to go higher speed! I also feel that the cadence is bit higher in the boost mode so I have to do exercise more. Switching the gear doesn't help to compensate the cadence difference between the assist levels.

But that's only me and my setup, what I'm saying here is that I'm kind of forced to drive faster what was my plan for the trip :lol:

-rado
 
Aushiker said:
tomjasz said:
I REALLY want to make my purchase with cell_man, but do I have to learn to wait days for an answer to questions? Is this just the nature of the beast? Buy and cross fingers?

This is a note now posted at http://em3ev.com indicating that they have been having email problems ...

We were having some email problems last week due to our Website Host, it seems there may have been some sort of issue with the shared server that is used to host this site and our email addresses. This caused every site on this shared server to be also blacklisted. The general emails are no longer affected by this issue, as some changes have been made, as they are no longer originating from the problem host, but site generated emails are still occasionally being affected as we cannot change where these emails originate from.

If you register on the site or place an order on the site, the email generated by the site may be rejected by your email provider, but we will receive the order and we will see any rejection notices. If you have any doubts about an order, feel free to send a contact form or email, we will receive it. We will most likely move to a new and improved host soon, but until then, we apologise for any inconvenience.

You can email on orders(at)em3ev.com or orders.em3ev(at)outlook.com, they will both arrive in the same inbox. Replace (at) with @, it's to avoid spam :)

BTW I got a response to my last email within two days. Reasonable in my view as even Paul is allowed the weekend off.

Andrew

Either the issues are not fixed or I'm being ignored. Sent a second message the other day and still no response from em3ev regarding my PAS stop working problem.
 
We'll see how this goes. My money has been sent. But Paul apparently does nothing by phone. It seems most are satisfied, unlike others in China he works in days rather than the weeks it take the rest. :lol: This is a very different sort of business model than I'm accustomed to. It's what comes out in the end that matters.
 
It may take a while for him to get back to you. Spring is an extremely busy time for him and i think the support end is still a one man operation.

He is always slow around this time. But he will get to you.
 
crossbreak said:
*arg* so many posts about programming but no summary.. anyone who want to sum up in a DIFFERENT threat!?! PLEASE!!!

If the GNG thread is no mess, this one definitely is!!

Youre so damn right. :?

Plus, everybody tells another story......cable to display....cable to controller.......3 wires.......5 wires.....with batt....without. :cry:
 
giantNRS1 said:
Bike plus rider will be around 84 kg. I have one 0.5 km climb that is 9%, about 46 m total elevation gain.
BBS-01 36V 500W
bike + rider 145 kg
0.38 km climb that is 6.5% overall, mid section is 9%, 25 m elevation gain
FOT plus me spinning, 38 km/h -> 12 km/h on top.
Was never able to climb that hill before.
 
ziltoid81 said:
Plus, everybody tells another story......cable to display....cable to controller.......3 wires.......5 wires.....with batt....without. :cry:
That may be because there are at least 3 different versions of display, C950, C961, C963, and each is only compatible with a particaular version of firmware that has been installed in the motor controller. If you read the display user manuals you will see that Bafang state what version controller firmware, say V4, that display is compatible with.

So, for those that have the software cable connected and working, could you please state what display you have and what motor BBS01/02 and the first four digits of the motor serial number, which is the year and month of manufacture. Hopefully this will help sort out how the individual units need to be configured.
 
So there are complaints that this thread is becoming a little chaotic and hard to follow and I think I agree. I'm quite new to all of this and don't have any experience in these matters but I'd like to ask those more knowledgeable how the main thread might best 'branch out' into several more specific and appropriately defined threads. How does it just happen? Just 'organically' or does someone take matters in hand and go out and start a couple more threads? I note someone has started a programming discussion. How about a BBSxx technical, problem and repair thread? Or maybe a BBS 'vendor experience' thread? I know it sounds a bit nerdsville, but - as a student of systems stuff - it's interesting to watch it happen. Hey - maybe there's a Masters or PhD in it...?

Savvas.
 
""there are at least 3 different versions of display, C950, C961, C963, and each is only compatible with a particaular version of firmware that has been installed in the motor controller. If you read the display user manuals you will see that Bafang state what version controller"""

also i want higlite this
so please gentelmens be more specific
 
""there are at least 3 different versions of display, C950, C961, C963, and each is only compatible with a particaular version of firmware that has been installed in the motor controller. If you read the display user manuals you will see that Bafang state what version controller"""

also i want higlite this
so please gentelmens be more specific
 
Arbol said:
Question: is the BBS-01 (or 02) only available for BSA (English thread), or is it also OK to install it with Italian thread? Many existing road bikes have an Italian thread, I believe.

It doesn't actually "thread" into the bb shell, it just goes though it, so the threads are immaterial. So as long as your BB shell is 68/73mm wide and at least 34mm in diameter you'll be fine.
 
samsavvas said:
You might also consider the Philips Pedelec-specific, twin-led light available from mail order places like Bike24. It has a wide range of inputs and a specially designed, road traffic-friendly lens and reflector (no glare). I have the dynamo version on a dynamo-bike which is just fantastic.

Missed this and ordered a Busch & Muller Lumotec IQ2 Luxos B 179B from http://bike24.com only just last Friday. I will be using a DC to DC converter to have the battery power it and the taillight.

Andrew
 
beazee said:
nukezero said:
Has anyone tried running the mid-drive with a NuVinci hub?
Yep. What's your question?

I read somewhere the N360 Nuvicini is not designed to take the load of the 48v 750w? It's only designed for 250w mid-drives?

Does it shift faster or switch to the next gear ratio much more smoother than a derailleur? Therefore, you really don't need to pause the throttle to change gears? you can just mash the throttle and change the gear on your shifter?
 
Okay guys, after 8 months with my Motiv Electric Bike and Bafang BPM, I'm dying for some more speed. 25MPH is great but it sure feels nice to hit 30MPH when I go down hill. I'd like to be able to sustain 30MPH so I'm hoping that I can get there on this bike with the 48v 750w BBS02.

Now there are some concerns that I want to raise.

1. First, the factory battery on this bike is a 48V 10Ah polymer pack that is probably rated for at best 20A. The 48v/750w BBS02 calls for 25A. That may mean I may or may not need a new battery pack? or perhaps can I buy those new triangle packs (which are cylindricals) from letriccycles and put that in parallel to get more amperage but maintain same voltage? Would mixing battery chemistries in parallel be bad?

2. I will need to ditch the rear hub motor and wheel. However, I've decided that I want to buy one of those 6-spoke Teny wheels. The teny wheels supports an 8 speed cassette and that's great since I can slap a 11T shimano cassette on there. I can't do that now with the bafang bpm because it only supports freewheels. Are there any concerns, opinions, constructive criticism about using these wheels? Please advise.

3. OR... my other option is to buy another triangle battery pack from lectriccycles, put that in series (48v+48v) = 96v and buy the lightningrods GNG kit? Again, this goes back to the question, #1, can I mix battery chemistries like that, and two... I'll only double the voltage, but the current is going to be my biggest limiting factor...
 

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Recieved mine from a new shop in the UK www.custom-ebikes.com (spacey) on here.





Is it possible to remove the connections I don't need by removing this plug? I'm not going to use ebrake connections or the throttle connection.

 
sacko said:
Is it possible to remove the connections I don't need by removing this plug? I'm not going to use ebrake connections or the throttle connection.

No, it's a sealed connection.

If you're sure you'll never need the connections though you could always cut the connectors off. Useful to leave them though for diagnostic purposes.

I'd try to use at least one brake switch though. It's annoying moving the pedals a little whilst stopped at lights and the bike trying to take off when the PAS kicks in!
 
nukezero said:
I read somewhere the N360 Nuvicini is not designed to take the load of the 48v 750w? It's only designed for 250w mid-drives?
That's what manufacturer says if you want to keep the warranty and operate the hub within it's optimum.
d8veh said:
Mine slipped a couple of times with my GNG at 36v and 30 amps when I was too lazy to change from top gear to a lower one up a hill.

Does it shift faster or switch to the next gear ratio much more smoother than a derailleur?
It does, faster and smoother.
Therefore, you really don't need to pause the throttle to change gears? you can just mash the throttle and change the gear on your shifter?
It can be done shifting the gears down (for climbing hills), it's much more harder shifting up.
Releasing the throttle even a little bit (keeping the pedals still) will speed up the process and extend the life of your hub.
Haven't had the problem with motor shut down.

nukezero said:
the factory battery on this bike is a 48V 10Ah polymer pack that is probably rated for at best 20A. The 48v/750w BBS02 calls for 25A.
You won't be able to use the whole lot of what the motor has to offer.
 
Arbol said:
Question: is the BBS-01 (or 02) only available for BSA (English thread), or is it also OK to install it with Italian thread? Many existing road bikes have an Italian thread, I believe.

It doesn't use the threads so the issue you imagine doesn't arise.

Savvas.
 
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