New Bafang Crank-Drives

[tomjasz]

More on this conversion please?

Edit, never mind.

http://electricwheels.de/Cycle_Analyst_V3_Unofficial_User_Guide.pdf

 

[shanman3us]

Just wrap them up as neatly as possible with cable ties followed then by a feeling of "well that looks like crap". Its nice to have a plug and play harness but it would be nice to be able to specify a length. Anyway, this issue will soon be solved for me once I throw the stock screen as far away as I possibly can and install a CA3 in its place. Looking so forward to having a suite of riding and power consumption statistics in front of me again. Thanks electricwheels.de for figuring this conversion out 8) .

Is there a thread started somewhere on this conversion to the CA3? I'm certainly interested for down the road.

Shanman3us

 

[Kepler]

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=60433

 

[shanman3us]

@kepler

Sorry to bug you but I just got my BBS02 installed (with my mess of wires and all) and was not thrilled with the brake/s that came with the kit. They do the trick but I purchased a different brake that matches more closely what I had on there to begin with. I only used the left hand brake since I no longer needed the shifter for the 3 chain rings up front. I looked at your circuit that was for a throttle/PAS override for when you were shifting. I have also seen originally others that wanted to replace the 'lower quality' brake that comes with the kit. I have no issues with the recovery time when I use the brake and often use the lever when shifting and the motor is still assisting. Therefore, at the moment, I'm just looking to replace the brake and sensor and keep it working as it does stock.

I thought it was you that mentioned it had a hall sensor for the brake sensing. My brakes actually have a push-in button. It still comes out to the 3 pin connector but was wondering if they changed the brake sensor to a switch as opposed to a hall sensor? Do you know? If so, would it be an SPDT or just an on/off switch?

Thanks, Shanman3us

Added a couple of pictures:

 

[shanman3us]

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=60433

Great, thank you kepler

Shanman3us

 

[CellBalance]

Just wrap them up as neatly as possible with cable ties followed then by a feeling of "well that looks like crap". Its nice to have a plug and play harness but it would be nice to be able to specify a length. Anyway, this issue will soon be solved for me once I throw the stock screen as far away as I possibly can and install a CA3 in its place. Looking so forward to having a suite of riding and power consumption statistics in front of me again. Thanks electricwheels.de for figuring this conversion out 8) .

Kepler, I think I missed something. I have a CA (Cycleanalyst - http://www.ebikes.ca) onboard too. It is great for the info it provides. My question is, if you remove the stock display, how do you turn on the controller and/or modify settings?

 

[Kepler]

Kepler,
Not to change the subject of Bafang, but have you looked into http://www.speedict.com/ ? I just installed the Mars version last night and I like it better than a CA3 because you can save the data, memorize battery packs and move it from bike to bike. I think it is even cheaper. If your just looking for data and no control it seems like a better option.
Chalz

The Speedict looks good but I need something that does full control as well data. CA3 I think is the only aftermarket display that can do this (as far as l know)

 

[CellBalance]

The helically cut secondary gear is nice and wide to handle plenty of load and has an internal sprag or one way bearing press fitted inside. This allows the secondary reduction to free wheel under certain operating conditions.

In the context of trying to resurrect my BB-02 750W older/non-heat protected motor (plastic gear got hot and weakened then broke):
I was just about to ask you how the primary white gear locked onto the shaft that it rides on. Then I found the answer in this earlier post of yours above (had to insert a different photo). Thanks for that.
Cool:
Sprag noun
1 A simple brake on a vehicle, especially a stout stick or bar inserted between the spokes of a wheel to check its motion.
1.1 A one-way clutch that keeps a vehicle from rolling backwards.

A local machine shop here in Bali gave me 2 options to replicate my muched white plastic primary reduction gear: teflon/plastic or bronze. I opted for the latter, thinking it might be more robust. With this machine: they should be able to do it, as they say they can. Now to see if I can find a sprag/one way bearing in these parts to fit...
Stay tuned.

 

[Kepler]

@kepler

Sorry to bug you but I just got my BBS02 installed (with my mess of wires and all) and was not thrilled with the brake/s that came with the kit. They do the trick but I purchased a different brake that matches more closely what I had on there to begin with. I only used the left hand brake since I no longer needed the shifter for the 3 chain rings up front. I looked at your circuit that was for a throttle/PAS override for when you were shifting. I have also seen originally others that wanted to replace the 'lower quality' brake that comes with the kit. I have no issues with the recovery time when I use the brake and often use the lever when shifting and the motor is still assisting. Therefore, at the moment, I'm just looking to replace the brake and sensor and keep it working as it does stock.

I thought it was you that mentioned it had a hall sensor for the brake sensing. My brakes actually have a push-in button. It still comes out to the 3 pin connector but was wondering if they changed the brake sensor to a switch as opposed to a hall sensor? Do you know? If so, would it be an SPDT or just an on/off switch?

Thanks, Shanman3us

It is still a hall device even though it looks like a push button switch. This means it has a +5V line, Grd, and signal wire. You can emulate the hall signal with a couple of voltage dividers if you want to and then use a micro switch. Easier option to just the sacrifice the crappy brake lever and cut the stock brake sensor out for use with the new brake lever.

 

[Kepler]

The helically cut secondary gear is nice and wide to handle plenty of load and has an internal sprag or one way bearing press fitted inside. This allows the secondary reduction to free wheel under certain operating conditions.

In the context of trying to resurrect my BB-02 750W older/non-heat protected motor (plastic gear got hot and weakened then broke):
I was just about to ask you how the primary white gear locked onto the shaft that it rides on. Then I found the answer in this earlier post of yours above (had to insert a different photo). Thanks for that.
Cool:
Sprag noun
1 A simple brake on a vehicle, especially a stout stick or bar inserted between the spokes of a wheel to check its motion.
1.1 A one-way clutch that keeps a vehicle from rolling backwards.

A local machine shop here in Bali gave me 2 options to replicate my muched white plastic primary reduction gear: teflon/plastic or bronze. I opted for the latter, thinking it might be more robust. With this machine: View attachment 1 they should be able to do it, as they say they can. Now to see if I can find a sprag/one way bearing in these parts to fit...
Stay tuned.

Cant you just buy a new nylon gear with sprag bearing as a spare part?

http://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-mid-crank-system-gear-replacement.html

Very unusual for them to break so I doubt it would happen again.

 

[Kepler]

My question is, if you remove the stock display, how do you turn on the controller and/or modify settings?

Bit of mod work required. I am going off what electricwheels.de is posting. Have a look at his thread (link a few posts up) All is explained there. Plan to do this conversion this weekend.

 

[CellBalance]

From: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=50104&start=1925#p876033
and http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&hilit=bafang+program

I opened the display case (which is welded so the result isn't very clean ...). You can see on the pic the wire's color and function.

Which display is that?
I'm wondering if anyone out there has opened a C961 display in a similar fashion. Just for the fun of it and maybe because I'm part Scots I'm looking to crack that "potted" puppy and track down the source of "error 30" = communication problem. I know the error message isn't coming from the controller because a second C961 works fine.

 

[bose]

The speedict mercury does full control, remap throttle curve, pas etc.

http://www.speedict.com/

The Mercury measures and records Speed, Current, Voltage, Cadence and Temperature over time, then use these measurements to calculate the maximum Power (Watt), battery consumption (mAh). Real-time information as to live and peak Current, live and used Voltage, Current and maximum Power (Watt), as well as existing and consumed Capacity (mAh) is transmitting using Bluetooth technology. Biker can use their cell-phone to read these data in real-time for their pleasure or to fine-tune their power system.

Function mode allows configurable function model through its on-board 4 I/O ports, in combining with Governor features it can provide riders’ needs on both safety and system utilization. For instance, configure Speedict Mercury to measure Pedal Cadence rate, matching cadence rate for power delivery, redefine throttle’s highest and lowest point and even configure to compliant with EN15194 standard.

The Mercury can save up to 12 hours of information. Bikers can download their logged data to their Android device and manage the data and performance charts in offline mode.

Kepler,
Not to change the subject of Bafang, but have you looked into http://www.speedict.com/ ? I just installed the Mars version last night and I like it better than a CA3 because you can save the data, memorize battery packs and move it from bike to bike. I think it is even cheaper. If your just looking for data and no control it seems like a better option.
Chalz

The Speedict looks good but I need something that does full control as well data. CA3 I think is the only aftermarket display that can do this (as far as l know)

 

[samsavvas]

Its very hard to say, but...if you imagine the drive rotated around so the motor is above or behind the BB...maybe?

View attachment 1

The plan is to have it directly behind the BB

The challenge is not where the motor ends up but whether you'll have room for that larger diam. BB shell between the BBxxx crank spindle and the motor housing. This has been raised in a previous post (and similar project) and I'm not aware that the question was ever resolved. Best to draw it all up I think and get the dividers out...
Savvas

 

[samsavvas]

A local machine shop here in Bali gave me 2 options to replicate my muched white plastic primary reduction gear: teflon/plastic or bronze. I opted for the latter, thinking it might be more robust. With this machine: View attachment 1 they should be able to do it, as they say they can. Now to see if I can find a sprag/one way bearing in these parts to fit...
Stay tuned.

Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a new gear? They're pretty cheap. GBK have them but the postal cost might be frightening. EM3ev/Paul could probably get you one easy and I know he uses China Post (good for small items).

Savvas.

 

[shanman3us]

It is still a hall device even though it looks like a push button switch. This means it has a +5V line, Grd, and signal wire. You can emulate the hall signal with a couple of voltage dividers if you want to and then use a micro switch. Easier option to just the sacrifice the crappy brake lever and cut the stock brake sensor out for use with the new brake lever.

OK, thanks again Kepler. Now that I know it is still a hall sensor I will be able to figure out what I want. My first priority is programming the controller which has plenty of info now that I'm in a position to try it.

Thanks again.

Regards, Shanman3us

 

[Ken Taylor]

Kepler, I think I missed something. I have a CA (Cycleanalyst - http://www.ebikes.ca) onboard too. It is great for the info it provides. My question is, if you remove the stock display, how do you turn on the controller and/or modify settings?

You turn on the controller by:-

Interestingly shorting P+ and PL on the controller side turns the speed sensor LED on, indicating this is how the controller is powered up.

You lose the ability to modify settings.

The BBSXX controller is programmed so that it only responds to the throttle. The CA3 then does the control logic and outputs a throttle signal to vary the BBSXX power.

A local machine shop here in Bali ...

Where is there a machine shop in Bali? I've been looking for one to manufacture drop outs, bottom bracket tubes and ream head tubes for the wooden frames I'm building there. A lot of people have told me the nearest machine shop is in Surabaya.

 

[Mara2000]

Just finished my wife GT avalanche bike :wink: 750W/ 48V 11.6Ah

 

[Mara2000]

... and preparing next build my Cube LTD pro 27.5

 

[Kepler]

Nice platforms. I really like the white battery on the white bike. Gives a strong OEM feel to the conversion.

His and hers BBS's 8)

 

[m4s73r]

Nice platforms. I really like the white battery on the white bike. Gives a strong OEM feel to the conversion.

His and hers BBS's 8)

I would have to agree. Very nice. As a thought, you could paint the crank gear white to help with that oem feel.

 

[Ken Taylor]

Nice platforms. I really like the white battery on the white bike. Gives a strong OEM feel to the conversion.

His and hers BBS's 8)

I would have to agree. Very nice. As a thought, you could paint the crank gear white to help with that oem feel.

Yes, but the bundle of wires at the front, while as good a solution as is possible, doesn't look very OEM. You've also kept the front dérailleur, presumably to avoid the chain coming off due to difficulties with chain line.

 

[Kepler]

Commonly known as the Bafang Bundle. Clean well executed conversion regards. 8)

 

[shanman3us]

I must agree as well. Nice clean look with the White on White....

I have the GT Aggressor (mainly red with some black) and have always loved the look of the frame along with the strength of the welding and angles etc.

I also have to say, after programming my BBS02 500W 48V I'm totally loving it! This has to be the quietest, slickest and most versatile PAS/Throttle electric kit going. I feel that even though I didn't really know what I was waiting for over the past couple of years, when it came to converting my gasoline engine pedal assist to electric, that this was obviously what I was waiting for!

Shanman3us

Edit: BTW, I tied my 'Bafang Bundle' to the steering tube. From the pictures, yours looks a little cleaner then mine 8)

 

[Mara2000]

Nice platforms. I really like the white battery on the white bike. Gives a strong OEM feel to the conversion.

His and hers BBS's 8)

I would have to agree. Very nice. As a thought, you could paint the crank gear white to help with that oem feel.

Yes, but the bundle of wires at the front, while as good a solution as is possible, doesn't look very OEM. You've also kept the front dérailleur, presumably to avoid the chain coming off due to difficulties with chain line.

... you are right, wires a connectors in front realy not looks good, but it is not final version, after test with new 44T chainring, installing cutt off red switches for slight geraing i am going to minimalize this wires issue ( maybe cut connectors and do cleanly wires instalation with heathshrink)