New Bafang Crank-Drives

[shanman3us]

How many people trust this kit to go to work for months without being stranded?

I trust this kit 100%.

I usually use PAS and only the odd time do I use throttle but when I do use throttle, I am usually peddling along with it to keep the load down. I don't know if I need to do that but that is my riding style and I'm most comfortable with PAS.

Shanman3us

 

[Electric Junk]

How does the PAS work? Like what triggers when it engages and what triggers it stops? Does it sense the speed and cadence and calculate the assist?

Sorry, i'm just looking for a more detailed answer other than the obvious.

 

[tahustvedt]

How does the PAS work? Like what triggers when it engages and what triggers it stops? Does it sense the speed and cadence and calculate the assist?

Sorry, i'm just looking for a more detailed answer other than the obvious.

A sensor inside senses movement of the crank shaft and activates the assist. It cuts assist 250 ms after you stop pedalling. The assist is gradual based on the rpm of the crank, but it's not very good at following your pedal cadence. It works well enough though and I'm happy with it.

I trust the drive now after a month. It's been reliable and nothing has changed in the way it works, other than the resistance when spinning the crank without the motor being reduced compared to new. I guess the seals needed some run in time.

 

[dumbass]

by teslanv » Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:26 pm

Yeah, could be a phase wire came disconencted, or battery power. Does the diplay turn on?

And go to this thread for faults & fixes:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58898

Yeah, I have a big family gathering at my hose this Saturday so I haven't had time to worry about bike riding, repairs or mods. But after this weekend I am going to swap my good drive (500w 18a) from the bike I originally installed it on to a bike that better fits me. Then I'll start playing with the 750 to find it's problem (I'll be looking for a lot of help too). Everything on the screen shows normal with no faults. But the motor just doesn't run. It will click and even jerk now and then but that's it. But now that it's basically a freebie I'll start playing with it.

Bob

 

[UpRider]

Has anyone had this problem? I have a bbs01 with the C961 LCD. Any time the system is shut off (by shutting off the battery, shutting off the 961, or shut down by system timeout), the clock is reset to 00:00. It's not a big problem, but annoying. And it's nice to be able to see the correct time so easily when it works.
UpRider

 

[teslanv]

Has anyone had this problem? I have a bbs01 with the C961 LCD. Any time the system is shut off (by shutting off the battery, shutting off the 961, or shut down by system timeout), the clock is reset to 00:00. It's not a big problem, but annoying. And it's nice to be able to see the correct time so easily when it works.
UpRider

Internal button battery?

 

[jslabonte]

I received a dud from conhismotor. The kit was a 750 watts 20 amps one.
It made a hell of a ruckus from the get go, and despite many tries at troubleshooting, I could not find the problem.
It's a shame because i bought it because of the simplicity involved at first.

I just sent it back(which cost me another 100$) and the vendor agreed to send me another one.
The kit if I receive it back, will probably come in september, well after the summer.
I strongly suspect they never tried the motor, and that quality control was never done on this one...

I'll let you draw your own conclusions, but beware that crap happens. As for me, next time I will go with justin and the wonderful peeps at ebikes.ca.

 

[Ken Taylor]

Has anyone had this problem? I have a bbs01 with the C961 LCD. Any time the system is shut off (by shutting off the battery, shutting off the 961, or shut down by system timeout), the clock is reset to 00:00. It's not a big problem, but annoying. And it's nice to be able to see the correct time so easily when it works.
UpRider

Mine was like that when new for a few days. I left it powered overnight and it was fine after that.

 

[tomjasz]

I received a dud from conhismotor. The kit was a 750 watts 20 amps one.
It made a hell of a ruckus from the get go, and despite many tries at troubleshooting, I could not find the problem.
It's a shame because i bought it because of the simplicity involved at first.

I just sent it back(which cost me another 100$) and the vendor agreed to send me another one.
The kit if I receive it back, will probably come in september, well after the summer.
I strongly suspect they never tried the motor, and that quality control was never done on this one...

I'll let you draw your own conclusions, but beware that crap happens. As for me, next time I will go with justin and the wonderful peeps at ebikes.ca.

Or EM3ev.com, absolute warranty coverage. And in 5 business days from acknowledgement.

 

[dumbass]

I received a dud from conhismotor. The kit was a 750 watts 20 amps one.
It made a hell of a ruckus from the get go, and despite many tries at troubleshooting, I could not find the problem.
It's a shame because i bought it because of the simplicity involved at first.

I just sent it back(which cost me another 100$) and the vendor agreed to send me another one.
The kit if I receive it back, will probably come in september, well after the summer.
I strongly suspect they never tried the motor, and that quality control was never done on this one...

I'll let you draw your own conclusions, but beware that crap happens. As for me, next time I will go with justin and the wonderful peeps at ebikes.ca.

But why should "you" have to pay for the return shipping? You ordered a product in good faith at a set price. So it's the seller who should pay the return shipping. That's what I told my seller. I contacted PayPal and American Express that the product was defective and was sold as a 750w 25a kit. But I received a kit marked 750w 20a. And it failed to run after 1 block. PayPal and American Express agreed it wasn't my problem to deal with and refunded 100% of all my money. And I still have the defective kit and there's been no request for it to be returned. I'm guessing the taxes are very high to get it back into China. Surprised that your vendor isn't going to get hit with a re-entry duty and VAT. Maybe he just doesn't know about all that yet. I'm guessing that's why sellers located in China generally don't ask for the damaged part back.

Bob

 

[Aushiker]

How many people trust this kit to go to work for months without being stranded?

Well I have fitted one to my commuter ... my commute is 42 km each way with no alternative transport beside a taxi if I get stranded, which would be more than a motor dying ...

Andrew

 

[Spacey]

Hi Guys,

The new V2 Updated Bafang 750W mid drive motor kits are now in stock and physically at my shop

The controllers have been upgraded from 6 Fets to 9 Fets so should run cooler.

£449

Order from here:

http://www.custom-ebikes.com/bafang-bbs ... ive-motor/

Paypal, Debit an Credit cards accepted.

Shipping to UK is free

Shipping to Europe is £15

Cheers guys

Spacey

 

[Miles]

Hi Spacey,

This isn't the place for sales pitches.

Feel free to start a thread in the For Sale section........

 

[kudos]

I'm starting to get interested in getting one of these mid-drives, I have a bike just begging for it to go on.

This is now a huge thread, can anyone point me in the direction of or let me know what the stats are?

I'd like to know what the max speed is under throttle on the four versions (250W 36V, 300W 36V, 500W 36V, 750W 48V) 26" wheel.

Most importantly I'd like to know about efficiency, are these mid-drives more efficient than say a Mac hub motor all other things being equal ?

Thanks,
kudos

 

[hie2kolob]

I have the 750w BBS02 (from Lectric Cycles) with an Allcell 13.5 ah battery installed since February 22nd on my Fuji Reveal 2.0



My commute is 18.2 miles in each direction. As of today I have 1,647 miles and ZERO problems.
I weigh in @ 220 lbs and use PAS only. Compared to my geared hubs I've used, this kit is the best I've owned and would purchase it again in a heartbeat.

Great to hear that the motor you have and the one I am buying is so reliable. Thanks for the info!

 

[Spacey]

Hi Spacey,

This isn't the place for sales pitches.

Feel free to start a thread in the For Sale section........

Yep, sorry Miles... just seemed appropriate for this thread due to many people waiting on them. Will stick to the For Sale thread for future stuff :wink:

 

[joshseitz]

Aside from the new 9-fet controller better able to handle 25 amps without overheating, have other improvements been made to the kit? F

or instance some complained about the "dead band" in the throttle and non-linear throttle response.

Also I believe a delayed throttle decay when letting-off of the throttle was reported.

Any other idiosyncrasies that may have been remedied with this later iteration?

It sounds like we may not have the ability to modify programming in the near-term as well. Any news on that front?

 

[pjgold]

Is anyone using threadlocker on the bottom bracket main lock nut.
Mine has come loose twice now so i'm thinking to lock it but I'm worried if I have to remove it for any reason.

Also any tips for removing the crank arm, I have the correct puller but it won't budge and i don't want to strip the threads.

 

[samsavvas]

Is anyone using threadlocker on the bottom bracket main lock nut.
Mine has come loose twice now so i'm thinking to lock it but I'm worried if I have to remove it for any reason.

Also any tips for removing the crank arm, I have the correct puller but it won't budge and i don't want to strip the threads.

Re removing the crank,
- have you got the removal tools threads screwed all the way in? All bike mechanics will ask you this because all - at some time or another - have been careless about it and learned about stripped threads the hard way!

- I can't recall but was there a washer under the crank bolt? If there is, you have to pry that out - the crank won't move unless you do. They can be hard to notice after you have removed the bolt...

Savvas.

 

[tomjasz]

I use thread loc, I prefer the green. Lighter hold but tough enough IME, and easiest to break loose. Second choice blue. NEVER RED requiring heat, unless all else fails. I always try the lightest duty first. Just as I did on my Vespa GTS250. One bike here was done with a torque wrench without loctite and nothing has come loose yet but I've only got 200 miles on that ride.

 

[PaulD]

Is anyone using threadlocker on the bottom bracket main lock nut.
Mine has come loose twice now so i'm thinking to lock it but I'm worried if I have to remove it for any reason.

Mine slowly works its way loose as well and starts creaking. I plan on trying locktite. I think the way that the kit fits the BB shell is not very well designed, with nothing that locks it concentrically with the BB shell on the left side. For those of us that actually pedal, I think this is a deficiency in this kit, and can be improved upon.

 

[tomjasz]

Are the units loosening the first (two lock rings) or latest design (lock ring and threaded cap)?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[PaulD]

Are the units loosening the first (two lock rings) or latest design (lock ring and threaded cap)?

I have the old design... I didn't realize there was a new one, but I found a pic here: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5XmVivdk4tA/U5QfQnJ5opI/AAAAAAAALw0/BEewHLTQYBw/w1030-h774-no/P1010374.JPG
Looks like it might be more effective, but still wouldn't help the lack of concentric locating feature for the left side of the BB shell as far as I can tell.

 

[pexio]

I have the new design (like the pic PaulD linked to) and it also loosens up. Loctite is next.

 

[pjgold]

Is anyone using threadlocker on the bottom bracket main lock nut.
Mine has come loose twice now so i'm thinking to lock it but I'm worried if I have to remove it for any reason.

Mine slowly works its way loose as well and starts creaking. I plan on trying locktite. I think the way that the kit fits the BB shell is not very well designed, with nothing that locks it concentrically with the BB shell on the left side. For those of us that actually pedal, I think this is a deficiency in this kit, and can be improved upon.

Yep this is exactly what happens with mine and I agree the plate needs to have a small tapered seat on it that just enters the edge of the bottom bracket. A small tapered ring between the plate and the bottom bracket should do the trick.

Mine is the newer version with the threaded cap.

I'll have a look for the washer in the crank arm, thanks for that tip.

I'll give the light or meduim loctite a go but while I'm there i'll have a look and see if a ring will work.