New Bafang Crank-Drives

Hi Shodd and welcome to the forum.

I put a BBS02 on an alloy frame for my sister and I used a coarse 3/8" round file to carefully ream out the center area of the bottom bracket. Unlike the steel frames, it is my understanding that most alloy frames leave extra metal in the middle between the threaded ends that needs to be honed down to fit the Bafangs. As mentioned earlier, a dremel tool also will work.

However you do it, good luck with the install.
 
giantNRS1 said:
Just thought I would share a photo from a ride a did today. My bike is a Giant NRS-1 and I have the BBS-01 with a 36V allcell battery in a custom frame bag.

I rode today in Tilden park in the hills east of San Francisco. The view is of Mt. Diablo. Superfun ride. I love this bike. Because of the motor I can get up to the trails without a car going faster than I would on a racing bike. It is hard to describe how awesome it is to have an e-bike like this. You can get all the exercise you want, the bike can go anywhere, and there is no speed penalty on regular roads like there would be with a standard mountain bike.

This is an amazing view giantNRS1. What kind of range do you get with your bike? (And capacity of your battery?)

I'm down in Mountain View (south of SF for those of you not in the area) and I'm excited to go explore all the great Bay Area trails/hills I've haven't had the courage to tackle with my hardtail mtb. My BBS02 750 v2 is being delivered today and I just placed an order for a 50V 24.8aH triangle pack from Em3ev today. So anxious to get this bike up and running!
 
Just got the new 25a kit

A few minutes into installing the kit, the bottom bracket fixing plate bolts thread too far in the housing, the screws are too long...if they are forced in too far they could bind something in the housing.
 
Supertux1 said:
Can you see the joints where the down tube, seat tube and chain stays come together at the bottom bracket?
Those tubes or their welds might be protruding slightly into the BB tube, a rounded file might help.

That's exactly what happened to me. I had to carefully dremel it out. By looking I didn't see it since it was so uniform but after careful inspection I could feel the raised ridge from the seat tube going into the junction just a little too deep.

Shanman3us
 
Anyone using bafang with hydraulic brakes - Tekro Gemini?
 
tumich said:
Anyone using bafang with hydraulic brakes - Tekro Gemini?

I tried to find hydraulics that would work with hall cutouts but could locate any. I have been using hydraulics without the brake cutouts for a while now and it hasn't been a problem.

The power of hydraulic brakes is incredible.
 
tumich said:
Anyone using bafang with hydraulic brakes - Tekro Gemini?

I'm using Deore M595's. I removed the hall sensor from one of the brake switches and Araldited it in place along with a neodymium trigger magnet:-

 
Hi all, just wanted to post a thank you to all who offered up advice on getting my stuck axle issue resolved.

I ended up filing the inside of the BB shell until the unit could slide through. Very pleased to be able to continue to progress. Now on to find some M33 hex nuts to use in place of the stock ones that I don't have a tool for.

Once again thanks to those who helped. This forum looks to be a great place to hang out; I'll be posting up some pics of my completed build once I get there :)
 
amigafan2003 said:
tumich said:
Anyone using bafang with hydraulic brakes - Tekro Gemini?

I'm using Deore M595's. I removed the hall sensor from one of the brake switches and Araldited it in place along with a neodymium trigger magnet:-



You think that this kit from Aliexpress will works good with Tektro Gemini hydraulic brakes? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/electric-bicycle-brake-sensor-for-Hydraulic-Brake-System/1117778378.html
 
shodd said:
Hi all, just wanted to post a thank you to all who offered up advice on getting my stuck axle issue resolved.

I ended up filing the inside of the BB shell until the unit could slide through. Very pleased to be able to continue to progress. Now on to find some M33 hex nuts to use in place of the stock ones that I don't have a tool for.

Once again thanks to those who helped. This forum looks to be a great place to hang out; I'll be posting up some pics of my completed build once I get there :)
If you had your location listed someone could direct you to a source. For future posts, having that info in your profile is very helpful. It helps others help you! And you never know you might find a build buddy.
 
Anyone tested this custom spider gearing from hi-powercycles? http://www.ebay.pl/itm/104-BCD-Custom-Spider-Gearing-Bafang-8fun-Mid-Drive-750W-500W-350W-BBS01-BBS02-/121341300801

"This spider, with the right gearing, allows you to increase your torque by over 25% when using a smaller chain ring. Our customers have ridden thousands of miles on these without any problems!
"
 
shodd said:
Hi all, just wanted to post a thank you to all who offered up advice on getting my stuck axle issue resolved.

I ended up filing the inside of the BB shell until the unit could slide through. Very pleased to be able to continue to progress. Now on to find some M33 hex nuts to use in place of the stock ones that I don't have a tool for.

Once again thanks to those who helped. This forum looks to be a great place to hang out; I'll be posting up some pics of my completed build once I get there :)

It really would help if you gave your location. Anyway, I wouldn't replace those nuts because the second nut is a cover nut that helps to keep out the dirt from the threads. Get the end of the threads dinged up and it will be harder for you in the future if you need to remove and re-install the motor. All you need is an under sink wrench or "basin" wrench. You can buy them at any hardware or building supply store. Here's an add from Ebay with a pic so you know what I'm talking about. They work great...even better then the wrench I bought for the damn nut.

Bob

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BASIN-UNDER-SINK-FAUCET-PLUMBING-WRENCH-PLUMBER-TOOL-/281366269643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4182bc8ecb
 
shodd said:
. Now on to find some M33 hex nuts to use in place of the stock ones that I don't have a tool for.
)
Fastenal, but do you have a 50mm socket? :wink:
 
tumich said:
Anyone tested this custom spider gearing from hi-powercycles? http://www.ebay.pl/itm/104-BCD-Custom-Spider-Gearing-Bafang-8fun-Mid-Drive-750W-500W-350W-BBS01-BBS02-/121341300801

No... but I just ordered one 8)
 
dumbass said:
All you need is an under sink wrench or "basin" wrench. You can buy them at any hardware or building supply store.

Hey Bob, thanks for the idea. I have that exact wrench in my toolbox and will try it next time I need to put those nuts on or take them off. I just used an old flat chisel and a hammer last time. :D
 
Rassy said:
dumbass said:
All you need is an under sink wrench or "basin" wrench. You can buy them at any hardware or building supply store.

Hey Bob, thanks for the idea. I have that exact wrench in my toolbox and will try it next time I need to put those nuts on or take them off. I just used an old flat chisel and a hammer last time. :D

Yeah, that's exactly where I found mine. And I agree a flatten edge chisel will work but it's a whole lot cleaner and easier to get the cap on when you use a wrench. BTW, I found that, that wrench is well because the handle (if you want to call it that) turns. Works good on bikes with obstacles in the way of a normal wrench. Of course a socket work really nice but the price is a killer.

Bob
 
Wouldn't a 38mm socket be a good candidate to grind into a two lug locknut wrench for $15. It does do a neater job and lends itself to using a torque wrench. I hate jury rigged tools that can bugger up parts. I'm all for saving bucks but for a buck I've saved on a scruffy tool I've been known to spend double on a fix.

The version two outer ring tool is an off the shelf Shimano tool with a handle AND 1/2 drive to use a torque wrench. I think I'm in $15 on Amazon Prime. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Hand-Outboard-Bearing-Bottom-Bracket-Wrench-Comfort-Handle-YC-29BB-2A-NEW-/141327813915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e7cb4d1b And, Yeah I know, some of you are just so good rhere's no need for another expensive tool, yet my motor holds, without slipping, with both styles of locknuts. Wrenching on a Vespa out of necessity, and being a n00b I swore by my torque values and had none of the typical weekend warrior wrencher mishaps. Not to loose, not to tight, just right. The engineers had to get some things right.

I have a nagging feeling that there is a 2 or 4 lug socket in the right size, we just have to find the application and source. Come on LeGrand spill it.
 
Why are people trying to jury rig scokets and use hammer and chisels etc - just buy the proper tools - they aren't expensive:-

Inner lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-C-Spanner-Shock-Wrench-Small-38mm-52mm-/350267911163?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
Outer lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-STEEL-BOTTOM-BRACKET-INSTALL-TOOL-FOR-SHIMANO-HOLLOWTECH-II-UK-Q33-/170873727732?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
 
shodd said:
Hi all, just wanted to post a thank you to all who offered up advice on getting my stuck axle issue resolved.

I ended up filing the inside of the BB shell until the unit could slide through. Very pleased to be able to continue to progress. Now on to find some M33 hex nuts to use in place of the stock ones that I don't have a tool for.

Once again thanks to those who helped. This forum looks to be a great place to hang out; I'll be posting up some pics of my completed build once I get there :)

It's worthwhile being patient with this. Mine didn't go in easily and now I'm wondering how I'll ever remove it again non-destructively. :?
 
On 15th I had a chance to do a quick ride with that lastly built black bike, about I wrote earlier (36V 350W motor, 14 Ah battery and C965 display).
Here's a bit better picture of display:
2014-07-15_C965.jpg


My goal was to test motor’s ability to go uphill. When I first lifted up this bike, I was surprised, because it didn’t feel much heavier than my current commuter – 15 year old Scott Taos without any electric assist.
At first I did couple uphill rides near the shop. There is maybe 70 m long and somewhere 6-7 meters high climb on gravel track.
With first assist level I had to do a bit of work, but nothing much. With 3rd level it was like riding on a level ground and with thumb throttle, there was no need to pedal, because bike climbed itself and with pretty fast speed. After those short climbs I went to test Trepi street rise. With that ride I already got used to this bike and tried different assist levels and speeds. On level ground there is enough assist with every level, just top speed with the same comfort is different.

As Trepi rise is paved, but not too smooth, I tried to make videos from all three assist levels and thumb throttle ride. With assist I tried to keep same comfort zone, so I wasn’t trying to get maximum from motor. Distance is somewhere 230-250 meters and rise 18 meters.
Unfortunately there is some issue with Photobucket and uploaded video quality is much lower, than original videos, but you can get an idea of the abilities of this small motor.
Assist level 1:
http://vid1162.photobucket.com/albums/q523/7Winter7/Liberator/2014-07-15_04_1_speed_uphill_zps07a688de.mp4

Assist level 2:
http://vid1162.photobucket.com/albums/q523/7Winter7/Liberator/2014-07-15_05_2_speed_uphill_zps568b883b.mp4

Assist level 3:
http://vid1162.photobucket.com/albums/q523/7Winter7/Liberator/2014-07-15_06_3_speed_uphill_zpsddf5f625.mp4

Thumb throttle:
http://vid1162.photobucket.com/albums/q523/7Winter7/Liberator/2014-07-15_07_full_throttle_uphill_zps2ebb49c4.mp4

When I returned the bike I was very impressed with its performance and didn’t believe that with that short test ride I had covered nearly 6 km. Thanks to electric assist it didn’t feel half of it, not to mention, that all those uphill rides where pure cruising. In my opinion for everyday commuter, this 350W BBS is very OK.
Most likely, the same motor and display will be installed on couple of our next Liberators. We'll see, how they'll work, when finished.

PS! Unfortuantely haven't had chance to make pictures of C961 and C965 side by side yet, hopefully next week.
 
amigafan2003 said:
Why are people trying to jury rig scokets and use hammer and chisels etc - just buy the proper tools - they aren't expensive:-

Inner lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-C-Spanner-Shock-Wrench-Small-38mm-52mm-/350267911163?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
Outer lockring:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-STEEL-BOTTOM-BRACKET-INSTALL-TOOL-FOR-SHIMANO-HOLLOWTECH-II-UK-Q33-/170873727732?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160
I have those tools, but with a 1/2" drive socket modified to have lugs I can use my torque wrench. I have a $200 wrench from my scooter work. I figure I may as well use it and use the Bafang torque specs. So far it works for me. But then I'm not yet that accomplished of a bike mechanic as I tend to over or under torque by hand. Same with the Shimano tool I posted. I can set the proper torque. Now before someone feels the need to chide me, it's a practice that works for me. Never a "you should" from this camp!
 
i'm messing with the controller settings, whats the difference between "level amount setting" within the advanced settings and the power assist levels you can change on the fly.

motor works great, i don't have the chain on but when i spin it gives the error 21, but thats exactly what should happen

The max speed setting is 50kmh. I'm using a 38 tooth gear with adapter from ebay.

I am also using an ebikekit geared rear motor both hooked up to a 15ah battery, for a little boost and redundancy.

i'm going do do a few trials and see under what circumstances dual drive is better since i can't really find any real world conclusions.

parts are coming in a week to finish it off
 
hachiko said:
giantNRS1 said:
Just thought I would share a photo from a ride a did today. My bike is a Giant NRS-1 and I have the BBS-01 with a 36V allcell battery in a custom frame bag.

I rode today in Tilden park in the hills east of San Francisco. The view is of Mt. Diablo. Superfun ride. I love this bike. Because of the motor I can get up to the trails without a car going faster than I would on a racing bike. It is hard to describe how awesome it is to have an e-bike like this. You can get all the exercise you want, the bike can go anywhere, and there is no speed penalty on regular roads like there would be with a standard mountain bike.

This is an amazing view giantNRS1. What kind of range do you get with your bike? (And capacity of your battery?)

I'm down in Mountain View (south of SF for those of you not in the area) and I'm excited to go explore all the great Bay Area trails/hills I've haven't had the courage to tackle with my hardtail mtb. My BBS02 750 v2 is being delivered today and I just placed an order for a 50V 24.8aH triangle pack from Em3ev today. So anxious to get this bike up and running!


I have the 350V system which seems enough for me as I like to pedal and I weigh about 145 lbs. I have a 380 Whr allcell battery in the custom frame bag. I not really tested my full range yet but I use about 200 Whr to go 18 miles, with a fair bit of climbing. So I guess that means I could go over 30 miles with the battery.

You are going to love your system with the power and battery you have. If you are interested in coming to the east bay to do a ride, let me know!
 
hachiko said:
I'm down in Mountain View (south of SF for those of you not in the area) and I'm excited to go explore all the great Bay Area trails/hills I've haven't had the courage to tackle with my hardtail mtb. My BBS02 750 v2 is being delivered today and I just placed an order for a 50V 24.8aH triangle pack from Em3ev today. So anxious to get this bike up and running!

You're gonna love it. Do you have the tools to remove your cranks/existing BB?
That's the biggest PITA of the whole installation affair.

Two tools which aren't immediately obvious that will help installing the BBS02 securely are these things:

Bottom Bracket Lock Ring Tool HCW-5:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW...7KRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405719352&sr=8-1

(Optional) Bottom Bracket Wrench BBT-9:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT...2BMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405719376&sr=8-1

The first tool is to help tighten the lock ring that goes on the non-drive side of the BBS02 crank. You can also use a very wide jawed pipe wrench.
The second tool helps install the cup that goes over the lock ring. You can use a wide wrench on this but you'll scratch it all up. This cap is for looks/protection and doesn't need to be on real tight, so you might get away with using loctite and your hands or a strap wrench. :)

Let us know how much range you get out of that pack. I have the 18.5 Ah version and have yet to do a range test, I'm hoping 45+ miles to beat the MAC 10T. :)
 
Supertux1 said:
Two tools which aren't immediately obvious that will help installing the BBS02 securely are these things:
....................
(Optional) Bottom Bracket Wrench BBT-9:
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT...2BMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405719376&sr=8-1
The second tool helps install the cup that goes over the lock ring. You can use a wide wrench on this but you'll scratch it all up. This cap is for looks/protection and doesn't need to be on real tight, so you might get away with using loctite and your hands or a strap wrench. :)

FYI I couldn't use my BBT-9 tool for the lock ring on my BBS02 500w unit - the outside of the spanner touched the motor housing so the tool couldn't slide onto the lock ring - I had to use an open ended BB tool - like this one
 
Back
Top