New Bafang Crank-Drives

[joshseitz]

Your problem is a common one discussed many times. Best solution for you is to use this 42 tooth chainring which will then give you the 6mm back to correct you chainline http://www.alcedoitalia.it/shop/guarniture/corona-42-denti-per-bafang-centrale-bbs01/

Would anyone in the States be interested in putting together a group buy on some of these Italian chainrings? I emailed them for a quote for 10 units with shipping and it saves a few bucks - $953 shipped for 10 units to Oregon. I could then re-ship them via USPS Priority or even first class mail for $4-6 each or so. If there is any interest I'll start another thread in the for sale area.

 

[amigafan2003]

I managed to bend the 34T pinion on my 11-34 rear freewheel group again on the weekend - one of the DMP epoch sets from Gloworm.

The DNP freewheels are made of cheese - I'm not suprised the torque from a BBS managed to bend it.

Solution is to get a regular wheel at the rear that has a good quality freehub and can take a good quality cassette. I'd be wary of using even cassette versions of motors (i.e. Bafang BPM CST or Q100 CST) as the freehubs aren't great quality on them and I wouldn't be suprised if a BBS could strip a cheap freehub as well.

 

[mick2d2]

Your problem is a common one discussed many times. Best solution for you is to use this 42 tooth chainring which will then give you the 6mm back to correct you chainline http://www.alcedoitalia.it/shop/guarniture/corona-42-denti-per-bafang-centrale-bbs01/. Next go to an 11/36 rear cluster or if you want crazy climbing power go to an 11/42 rear cluster. See this thread for a good example of this setup.. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=61070

Thanks.
So you think that's a better idea than getting the hacksaw out?

 

[pexio]

Your problem is a common one discussed many times. Best solution for you is to use this 42 tooth chainring which will then give you the 6mm back to correct you chainline http://www.alcedoitalia.it/shop/guarniture/corona-42-denti-per-bafang-centrale-bbs01/. Next go to an 11/36 rear cluster or if you want crazy climbing power go to an 11/42 rear cluster. See this thread for a good example of this setup.. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=61070

For the best chainline, I agree that the alcedoitalia 42t chainring is the best option (I have one on my bike). Another option though is to "downgrade" your cassette/freewheel. If you have, for example, an 8/9/10 speed 11-34 cassette, you could swap it for a 7 speed which is narrower and can be spaced farther outboard on the hub thereby improving the chainline with the stock 48t chainring. The same can be done with a freewheel. I replaced the 7 speed 14-34 freewheel on my gf's BBS02-equipped townie with a narrower 6 speed 14-34 version. This allowed me to space the freewheel approx. 5mm farther outboard which cured the bad shifting and noisy low gear.

With an ebike, especially a powerful mid-drive unit like the Bafang, I think it's more important to have an adequate range of gears - not necessarily a large number of gears. The motor makes up for big gaps between gears. :wink:

 

[mick2d2]

Cheers.
I have a 7 speed 13-34T compact cassette. If I were to put some sort of spacer/washer on the thread I could probably get 3 or 4mm more at the back. The only other option would be to cut a few mm off the crank hub and push the motor further in. I reckon I could get another 8mm here. Still not much though, but possibly enough. At the moment with my 38T crank, the chain lines up with 7th gear. If I could get it to work with the 34T & 38T it would give me a really good ratio for climbing hills, I think about 1.12.

 

[pexio]

Cheers.
I have a 7 speed 13-34T compact cassette. If I were to put some sort of spacer/washer on the thread I could probably get 3 or 4mm more at the back. The only other option would be to cut a few mm off the crank hub and push the motor further in. I reckon I could get another 8mm here. Still not much though, but possibly enough. At the moment with my 38T crank, the chain lines up with 7th gear. If I could get it to work with the 34T & 38T it would give me a really good ratio for climbing hills, I think about 1.12.

Yeah, I'd try spacing out the cassette before making any cuts anywhere. A few mm's makes a big difference in shift quality. Basically, space it out as far as you can so that in high gear (the 11t), the chain just barely clears the frame dropout. You can also try a more flexible (but weaker) 9 speed chain. Good luck!

 

[mick2d2]

The rear cassette has about 10mm of thread. I' wondering how much of that could I safely take. What do you reckon?
Thanks.

 

[pexio]

The rear cassette has about 10mm of thread. I' wondering how much of that could I safely take. What do you reckon?
Thanks.

I think your high gear will hit the frame dropout before you run out of adequate threads to engage. As noted, I put 5mm of spacers on my gf's bike (also with about 10mm of total thread) which was the farthest outboard I could go but it did the trick and there was plenty of thread for the freewheel to engage.

Can you space your chainring any farther inboard? How close to the motor case is it now?

 

[mick2d2]

This is the chainring:
http://www.declic-eco.fr/boutique/accessoires/adaptateur-plateau-bbs01-02-plateau-detail

It's about as close as it can get.

 

[mick2d2]

This is my bike:

 

[pexio]

This is my bike:

OK, it looks like the chainring is as close as can be. Are you sure that's an 13-34 freewheel? It sure looks like a 14-28 to me. Here's a pic of my gf's 14-34 6 speed freewheel. Note the two spacers inboard of the freewheel. The chainline now is such that the chainring lines up between the second and third smallest sprockets (between gears 4 and 5). I could probably add another 1-2mm spacer since the chain is not that close to frame dropout but it shifts fine as it is and is quiet.

 

[Russell]

Cheers.
I have a 7 speed 13-34T compact cassette. If I were to put some sort of spacer/washer on the thread I could probably get 3 or 4mm more at the back. The only other option would be to cut a few mm off the crank hub and push the motor further in. I reckon I could get another 8mm here. Still not much though, but possibly enough. At the moment with my 38T crank, the chain lines up with 7th gear. If I could get it to work with the 34T & 38T it would give me a really good ratio for climbing hills, I think about 1.12.

Your LBS should have the spacer or get it just about anywhere online, for example;

http://www.jensonusa.com/Cassette-Spacer

-R

 

[mick2d2]

Thanks for the help. You're right, that's the original cassette

This is the new one. As you can see, I've managed to adjust it a bit and it now stays on, but not very happily.
The hill climbing torque with the 34T & 38T crank is amazing. I've just come back from a ride up quite a steep gravel track and it was wheel-spinning on 9!
I think I will probably cut 10mm off the crank hub to compensate for the cogs on the motor and the maybe fit the 48T crank outside the 38T so I can use both. I've switched my 700C wheel size to 18 in the advanced settings as somebody in the forum suggested, so my theoretical maximum assist speed is now 50mph
I don't use it too much (or for very long) on settings above 6 as my battery is only 13Ah and the motor can pull 20Ah, or at least that's what it says on the casing.

 

[Electric Junk]

21amp max and 1050 watt peak on my watt meter for the new 25a kit

 

[speedmd]

New replacement controller I just got for my original failed unit runs very well. My bbs02 750w with it's new controller seems to run even quieter than it did originally. Pas programing is much improved also. It does seem to have just a bit less power than before but still plenty of power to handle most any terrain. I had to replace the main link cable as well as add a new throttle and brake switches as the connectors have all changed. They went to a slightly larger motor communication cable connectors and slightly smaller throttle and brake switch connectors. All in all some significant improvements.

 

[teslanv]

New replacement controller I just got for my original failed unit runs very well. My bbs02 750w with it's new controller seems to run even quieter than it did originally. Pas programing is much improved also. It does seem to have just a bit less power than before but still plenty of power to handle most any terrain. I had to replace the main link cable as well as add a new throttle and brake switches as the connectors have all changed. They went to a slightly larger motor communication cable connectors and slightly smaller throttle and brake switch connectors. All in all some significant improvements.

Can you snap some photos of the new connectors.?

 

[Ilpo]

My eBike:

Technic:
Motor: BBS01 36V/350W C961 (BmsBattery http://www.bmsbattery.com/)
Battery: 36V/10.4Ah (BmsBattery)
Bike: City Comfort 28", Shimano Nexus 7 (Biltema)
Battery bag: 3M-thermo (Biltema)

Settings:
4 assist levels
max. speed 30 km/h
PAS only

Bike had only coaster brake so I had to install extra rear side-pull caliper brake.

With full battery I was able to ride 60 km, which is nearly double than with my 8Fan 250W hub motor and same battery capasity.

BmsBattery had very quick delivery. 1 week after my order the motor was here in Finland.
BmsBattery have also very quick live chat support.

 

[geofft]

My eBike:

Technic:
Motor: BBS01 36V/350W C961 (BmsBattery http://www.bmsbattery.com/)
Battery: 36V/10.4Ah (BmsBattery)
Bike: City Comfort 28", Shimano Nexus 7 (Biltema)
Battery bag: 3M-thermo (Biltema)

....nice simple 'clean' looking install, I suspect that few casual observers will spot the true nature of the beast.

Just got my BBS02 yesterday (48v 750w), that's just the kind of look I'll be aiming for.... :wink:

 

[spinningmagnets]

Declic Eco (from France) just posted a disassembly video for the BBS-series, I will add the link to the article:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hfVAa5M6Nmk

 

[Aushiker]

Declic Eco (from France) just posted a disassembly video for the BBS-series, I will add the link to the article:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=hfVAa5M6Nmk

Thanks for sharing that. A great find.

Andrew

 

[teslanv]

The video is good except they don't show the removal of the rotor. For this, clamp the helical gear in a vice with wood blocks and pull the housing off by force.

 

[mick2d2]

I was just wondering, how many KM can we expect these motors to run for (if we get a good one)? I've done about 500KM on mine so far. Anybody had to do any maintenence yet?

 

[pjgold]

3000km on mine, only issue has been lock nut coming loose which thread locker seems to have solved.

 

[speedmd]

Can you snap some photos of the new connectors.?

They look nearly the same, just different diameters. Motor com cable has bigger connector and three wire ones are slightly smaller. Old ones will not fit. Speed sensor cable connector stayed the same. Motor com cable connector is still a bit small for my liking. Will take dimensions when I disassemble it.

 

[tomjasz]

Can you share the different manufacture dates?