New Bafang Crank-Drives

Several questions.

Tidiest method and placement of a wattmeter?

Best choice, bang for the buck meter?

Anyone have a source for 8fun OEM power connectors?

Can someone ID the style Lectriccycle uses and their source?



Thanks,

Tom

PS running in winter with studded tires is turning into good fun. Glad as hell I bought the frame mount battery to carry inside when shopping. I tried leaving it outside and 21F/-6C slows things down, a lot!
 
tomjasz said:
Anyone have a source for 8fun OEM power connectors?
I used these and they worked:

http://www.dx.com/p/male-female-bullet-insulated-connector-crimp-terminals-yellow-50-pairs-148501#.VICUj8mnBIl

But then I ended up replacing the male (motor) side after shortening anyway.

-=dave
 
I'd like to splice in a watt meter but would like a tidy install that looks clean and oem except, obviously, for the watt meter itself. I ride in winter and rain and don't really like the look of the Andersons or typical electrical parts in bright colors. Call me anal...
 
tomjasz said:
I'd like to splice in a watt meter but would like a tidy install that looks clean and oem except, obviously, for the watt meter itself. I ride in winter and rain and don't really like the look of the Andersons or typical electrical parts in bright colors. Call me anal...

Okay. You are anal. :)

Seriously, bullets are good for you as they make a nice, small and tidy joint. Use heat shrink on each connector up to the mating point when engaged. For environmental protection you can use some dielectric silicone grease on the contacts and apply shrink over the whole joint. Choose shrink lengths appropriately and you have a nice layered strain relief onto the wires.

Okay. I'm anal. :)
 
Hi my BBS02 750w bought from Lectriccycles came fitted with GX16-4 Aviation Conectors on the power lead.
You can get them from eBay,DX and others but I don't know how to insert a hyperlink. I use a GT Power LIPO WATTMETER Watt Meter in line in the battery bag as a fuel gauge.
Rgds
Darren
 
tungsten2k said:
Jazzman56 said:
Thanks Guys i'll look into how much work it entails :p
I'm not too keen on chopping up a BB of a new bike...
I seriously don't get all the hoopla… as long as the welds for all the tubes headed into the BB remain intact, since the BBS0x doesn't require or use any threads from the BB, I would just grind that sucker down to 68mm and call it good. It would even give you the opportunity to manipulate where in those 12mm of space you want to place the BBS0x so that you can best align the chainline (as long as you ensure the rest of the unit doesn't have any interference).

Good luck !

-=dave

I assume you mean the brand new bike..Don't do it! Apart from the fact the bike will have no resale value there are plenty of bikes to choose from with a compatible BB!
The new giant BB's are baffling :shock:
 
eMax said:
tungsten2k said:
Jazzman56 said:
Thanks Guys i'll look into how much work it entails :p
I'm not too keen on chopping up a BB of a new bike...
I seriously don't get all the hoopla… as long as the welds for all the tubes headed into the BB remain intact, since the BBS0x doesn't require or use any threads from the BB, I would just grind that sucker down to 68mm and call it good. It would even give you the opportunity to manipulate where in those 12mm of space you want to place the BBS0x so that you can best align the chainline (as long as you ensure the rest of the unit doesn't have any interference).

Good luck !

-=dave

I assume you mean the brand new bike..Don't do it! Apart from the fact the bike will have no resale value there are plenty of bikes to choose from with a compatible BB!
The new giant BB's are baffling :shock:

Bikes have wide bottom brackets for a reason, particularly fat bikes. Whey do most of them have 100 MM wide shells? To get the spacing needed to clear the chain to the tire through the range of gears. Wider tires are going to create this situation. You could always buy a $400 bikes direct single speed fat bike with a 68 MM shell and install an IGH to use with the mid drive Bafang.
 
That's a cool idea, there's a $300 fat bike at BigW (Australia) at the moment with a single speed coaster brake which might work... that's be fun, IGH and BBS02 750W fat bike.
 
Here is the bikes direct link for their single speed, 4 inch tire bike with a 68 mm bottom bracket shell. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/fat-bikes/fat-bikes-deadeye-monster.htm

Bike $400
Bafang motor :$550
Battery $500
IGH hub $500 laced to your rim

Around $1950 to build up a mid drive fat bike

If you already have a fat bike with a 100mm bottom bracket shell then I would just pay the extra for the outfit that modifies them to 100 mm width for around $1250 plus a $500 battery for a total of $1750 if you have your own bike already.

Of course you could go with other mid drive kits at a super high price or get a cheap one and have a nightmare of a time getting and keeping it running.
 
Or you could buy one of the new Biktrix Juggernaut Fat Tire Bikes right now for $1650 with the Bafang BBS02 and battery all installed:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/205514134/biktrix-juggernaut-the-ultimate-electric-fat-bike
 
leelorr said:
Or you could buy one of the new Biktrix Juggernaut Fat Tire Bikes right now for $1650 with the Bafang BBS02 and battery all installed:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/205514134/biktrix-juggernaut-the-ultimate-electric-fat-bike

You could but it doesn't look like they will deliver till next April at the earliest.
One advantage of DIY is that you can choose frame size and go with a larger battery and have an IGH. Their bike and components certainly aren't top drawer.
If you already have a quality Fat Bike then spending the extra money on the 100 MM bafang motor might be worth it.
 
In case anyone else missed it EM3Eev now has a range of chain wheel sizes listed as spare parts 44T to 52T :D .

Just ordered my Nuvinci so a 44T should go nicely with that :D
 
0utrider said:
pjgold said:
Just ordered my Nuvinci so a 44T should go nicely with that :D
After this weekend's ride filled with stop and go downtown traffic, I'd sure love a Nuvinci. I just can't afford it and they are out of developer (Model 171) kits.
How much was yours?

They are not cheap but hey it's xmas, I picked one up of ebay for $299 from bikewagon. Trouble is you need new spokes a 20T sprocket and it all adds up.
I am going to have a go at building my own wheel though it looks like so much fun :shock:
 
I wish I brought 2 171 dev kits when Utah Triakes had them for US$110 (IIRC). I haven't used the 1 I did get yet, but I have an N360 on my commuter with a front hub, and I'd not go back to a deraillier - I ride country roads and all the grit and dust plays havoc with them, plus it's so hilly and variable around here, that the infinite adjustment of the nuvinci more than makes up for any efficiency loss - My first week with the N360, I gained 1km/h on my average speed, and that was after 2 weeks off cycling.

The Dev kit is supposed to be for the longtail cargo bike I'm building, with a 350W 36V bafang.
 
I got the Hub Cone Spanner BT-2919 tool for the Bafang lock rings on Dec. 9th. Ordered it on e-bay on Dec. 1st for $6.36 including shipping from China. It works fine as a spanner wrench for the M33 lock nut but does not work so well with the external lock ring. I finally got it to work on the outer lock ring after filing down the teeth. Here are some closeup photos.
tool4.jpg
tool5.jpg
tool3.jpg
The fit of the teeth on the lock ring was too tight using the front face of the tool. I could not get the tool to grab the lock ring securely. The fit using the back side of the tool was worse. I then used a small flat file to file down the teeth and area between the teeth and finally got it to fit secure enough to turn the ring. After close inspection, I think I wasted my time filing down the area between the teeth. I think all you need to do is to remove the plating off the teeth. I suspect this tool is just stamped creating the tapered front edges and the sharp back edges. However, the plating then made the fit too tight even using the tapered side.

So if you plan to use this tool only occasionally, I guess it's worth the $6.36 and you plan to file down the teeth. Otherwise, spend the $30 for a spanner wrench and BBT-19.2 (not sure if this the right size) if you like good tools. Heck, I just used a hammer and slotted screwdriver for the M33 lock nut and then a strap wrench on the external lock ring to avoid bite marks marring the finish before I got this tool.
 
maxwell92036 said:
Their bike and components certainly aren't top drawer.
Man, is that bike a Mongoose Fat Bike from Walmart?

870264d1392608331-mongoose-beast-review-etc-walmart-fatty-867821d1391745859-new-geese-way-mongoose.jpg


Change the stem, saddle strip decals and place bafang unit and you have...

684f9fc1ad186ed3e08d69334d78a793_large.png


Still, it's a good price really.
 
Walmart mongoose has a steel frame and biktrix juggernaut a aluminum frame among other differences. :shock:
 
If anyone ordered anything from elifebike.com?
Here they have good price for Bafang BBS02 with new display C965 for 405$ + 63$ shipping by courier Fexed.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2014-3C-S316.027VD
 
Just fitted my BBS02 onto my old mistreated GT Avalanche 3.0 which is all stock, apart from some Schwalbe Marathon Tyres, oh and rockshox forks but I forget what model.

All I can say is, wow. On a good day (with little traffic) my commute of 7 miles by car is about 35mins, today, my first commute by bike, was 30 minutes, and it seems to have barely dented the battery (18.5Ah)

I settled on a PAS of around 3, and found that the throttle was mostly useful for a quick tap to get past things or away at lights.

The only negative so far that I hadn't anticipated are the brake levers, which are wobbly and crap, and not really suited for use with mechanical disc brakes (too much travel makes them all spongy) has anyone tried it with a hidden wire brake sensor, or know of any other aftermarket brake levers with the switches?

I might also point out that this was my first time on an ebike of any kind, so I have no frame of reference to draw comparison, but the kit has certainly surpassed my expectations.

Everything was purchased from EM3EV, and they provided tremendous service.

I would write a build summary, but having seen so many on here I think mine would be redundant.

Are there any general suggestions for things to do or buy with a new setup like this? The only things that I can think of at the moment is a mirror, or perhaps an internally geared hub (I'm going to see how long my original cassette lasts though).
 
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