cwah
100 MW
I tried the C963 display which is 20usd more expensive than the C961, but it has actually less functionality and less voltage?? And speed is limited to 40km/h???
Why is that?
Why is that?
I've had two resellers tell me that the only reason they stock the 963 is because they have requests and that they prefer to sell the 961 with their kits.cwah said:I tried the C963 display which is 20usd more expensive than the C961, but it has actually less functionality and less voltage?? And speed is limited to 40km/h???
Why is that?
melodious said:I'll add another gripe and welcome a lesson why there is a 1/2 second delay before power cutoff? I understand the delay and rampup on startup is to preserve drivetrain, but the cutoff is baffling. :?
tomjasz said:I've had two resellers tell me that the only reason they stock the 963 is because they have requests and that they prefer to sell the 961 with their kits.cwah said:I tried the C963 display which is 20usd more expensive than the C961, but it has actually less functionality and less voltage?? And speed is limited to 40km/h???
Why is that?
cwah said:tomjasz said:I've had two resellers tell me that the only reason they stock the 963 is because they have requests and that they prefer to sell the 961 with their kits.cwah said:I tried the C963 display which is 20usd more expensive than the C961, but it has actually less functionality and less voltage?? And speed is limited to 40km/h???
Why is that?
What about the new c965? What does it worth?
tomjasz said:I have two kits from two suppliers, both have different levers. Frankly I can't see them as any better or worse than the levers on any $500-$750 bike out there.
Samd said:Thinking of throwing one on a carbon 29er. But the BB shell is nearly 20mm thick from inside thread thru to outer area. I don't have a spare bbs on me to check, but does anyone know what the maximum BB shell thickness can be before hacking onto anything?
Cheers.
Samd said:No that's ok - happy to machine out that section as carbon isn't so hard to modify with aerospace epoxy and the ally shell has huge contact area to bond back to.
Tossing up whether to give it the 2kw rear gearhub treatment instead for that extra bit of adrenalin. I'd have to bond rear torque plates then anyway.
If anyone does know the max BB shell diameter for clearance I'd be keen to know. Otherwise I'll unbolt our shop unit from the wifebike tonight and take a peek, time permitting...
scfoster said:1) Turned out the motor torqued itself out of alignment without the missing bolt, so the spindle was no longer parallel to the motor.
[...]
2) Everything went back together perfectly. Used slightly longer M6 bolts (5mm gap due to the 73mm bottom bracket) and two 5mm thick plastic spacers.
[...]
3) I still don't like having only one M33 retaining nut but I can't decide whether I want to mess with grinding the bottom bracket (yes I'm lazy).
[...]
4) Another option would be to just drill the M33 retaining nut with a small hole for a lock-wire.
tungsten2k said:The rubber pad on the BBS0x
0utrider said:tungsten2k said:The rubber pad on the BBS0x
The rubber pad? What rubber pad? Did I miss something installing my kit?
Thanks man. I needed to remove the cranks to tighten the nut anyway so I'll inspect that I have it. If I don't, I'll add one!tungsten2k said:Also highlighted is the rib that will likely need a bit shaved off
tungsten2k said:scfoster said:1) Then you probably didn't install the motor as tight as you could up against the downtube. The rubber pad on the BBS0x is supposed to butt tight up to it. If you cannot do this, because of the design of the frame, then you probably should build something to take up the space so that the downtube is the primary part to keep the motor from twisting in the BB. There is a section of aluminum that makes up the thread section for one of the M6 bolts and it can sometimes hit the downtube first, preventing the rubber pad from resting against the tube, which can dent the tube, but also cause the motor to loosen as the dent gets deeper. It also torques the motor sideways. If yours hits, grind the section of the aluminum rib down on the BBS0x: there's enough thread there to handle loosing a little. The reason this issue exists, is the motor is now offset by 2.5mm (in your case) so is not centered as originally designed.
-=dave
scfoster said:I'm surprised that Bafang hasn't come out with a unit that supports a proper 73mm BB width. Looks like most of the bikes in the bike shop have 73mm BB's rather than 68mm.
John Bozi said:melodious said:I'll add another gripe and welcome a lesson why there is a 1/2 second delay before power cutoff? I understand the delay and rampup on startup is to preserve drivetrain, but the cutoff is baffling. :?
I brought this a few pages back with no idea.
I wonder if I can pull apart the ebrake and epoxy the sensor to the thumb throttle so that the motor is cut off when the throttle is not engaged. (I don't use PAS as that half second is dangerous).
Has anyone tried using the ebrake softly at the end of powering to see if the delay gets cancelled?
I don't really see the point in thumb throttle as I was trying to see if you can hold it quarter turn half turn and to see if there is a power difference, I couldn't see the difference. I reckon just simple push button (like regen button would work just as well.)
samsavvas said:Check out Kepler's illustrated posts on this subject.
Savvas.
quoted from an Aussie who was part of a group buy.Speaking of gears, all our bikes are internal hub gears, either Shimano Nexus or Sturmey Archer (AB & S3X). They are not designed to be shifted under power, which means that chain has to stop moving. The motor has lag, thus when you stop pedalling, you have to wait until the motor stops... going up a hill, this means losing momentum. The ideal solution will be a sensor in the motor that cuts power as soon as the cranks stop turning. We have proposed a work-around where an instant-off button on the handlebar is spliced into the ebrake, because if you touch the ebrake, the motor instantly quits. The challenge going up a hill is to goose the brake just enough to cut power, but not slow the bike; pressing a red button would be like an electronic clutch. We'll report on it, if we get it in the next batch. The other way to go is to install the NuVinci N360 transmission hub that can be shifted under power.