new bike light

ktronik said:
The Journey Guy said:
So, batt - goes to the bottom right lead of the driver (I believe that's pin 4), yes? Thanks again!


Doh, No, Batt - is the copper track around the outside of the driver...(letter B is on)

K

Got it now, thanks! OK, one last question, and I believe I'm set. If I have read this thread correctly, this light should run off 3.6v, yes? Would you advise me as to what specific battery I could use with this that will give me enough push to light very brightly for aprox 2 hrs before being recharged or replaced? The only batteries I have now are two LifePo4 24v packs. So, I'll have to get whatever battery you recommend to power this unit.
 
The Journey Guy said:
ktronik said:
The Journey Guy said:
So, batt - goes to the bottom right lead of the driver (I believe that's pin 4), yes? Thanks again!


Doh, No, Batt - is the copper track around the outside of the driver...(letter B is on)

K

Got it now, thanks! OK, one last question, and I believe I'm set. If I have read this thread correctly, this light should run off 3.6v, yes? Would you advise me as to what specific battery I could use with this that will give me enough push to light very brightly for aprox 2 hrs before being recharged or replaced? The only batteries I have now are two LifePo4 24v packs. So, I'll have to get whatever battery you recommend to power this unit.

one or 2 18650's in parallel, just one little 18650 should last 4-5hrs (@ 50% duty cycle) or any single cell from a old e-bike batt, laptop, any li-ion / lipo 3.6v cell (max charge is 4.2v) you can put the 18650's in a 18650 battery holder...

K
 
I would either design a led driver or buy a led driver kit or build a linear regulator with two lm317t's and hook them straight up to the battery.. You might require a bigger reg for the current draw but i doubt it if you do you homework.

That bike light i designed based on the lm317 draws 80 milliamps from the battery and 70milliamps from the reg. The led lamps draw 3.3 watts and the reg wastes less than .5 watts. Like PWM in led drivers doesnt even figure into the equasion when running them at full power and there is much debate over drivers vs constant current.
 
I could probably run 12 (3s4p) of the below lamps off a single Lm317t reg with little more than one amp current and you guessed it .5 watts loss on the drop. IMO would compete with most drivers on the market today.

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Hooked to the battery pack is sort of making life easier as they are allways ready to go.


I would run them in series with some 12v led bulbs to get the total volts 1.25v below LVC. Then you have constant bright lights right up until the battery is low on volts. it would start to dim below lvc.
 
Hi everyone,

I've created a new topic for creating one of Ktronik's "The Blinder" tail lights. Join me over there to discuss the building of one of these!

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13479&p=200004#p200004

Ambrose
 
ktronik said:
ambroseliao said:
Are you the owner of the company or an employee of the company that created the K-light?

Ambrose

I am the designer. my job is to make sure the LEDs are very well cooled for max lumen per watt & that the electronics won't blow up when used...

have a look @ what happens to your light when your LED heats up...the DX version of the MShine has 3 thermal junctions & poorly matted ones at that...a 12w LED light could loss over 100lm easily just by adding more thermal junctions to the light case...

tjdegc.gif


The more thermal junctions the less efficient heat transfer is, the hotter the LED junction becomes over time, the more light lost as heat...the less light you have...

its is great value for the price, but for me I like to have a driver & batterys that have been proven to work / last before I go off into the bush in the dark...I am sure many people will be happy with this light as it is...so I say go for it & buy buy buy...you can't go wrong at that price. But, I say buy off GEOMAN, as he has had his changed, closer to the spec I would be happy with, & has done so with feedback from user like me...

For me, I have modded mine...Thermal paste under the MCPCB, can lip, retainer & retainer thread, I used a IP68 cable gland, sealed the old cable hole, swapped out the untested driver to a tested AMC7135 in a 2.8A config, using 4 parallel wired 18650's, I have also 'stippled' the reflector for a smoother beam pattern & now I am happy, I love reflectors for the great beam they give ...for me this is a simple & reliable system with little to go wrong, that will get me home again...this is just MHO, people are free to make up thier own mind, as are you...

the DX version would have to be fully re-built to last any length of time just on the thermal side of things...let alone an un-tested driver & cheap batts...good for a cheapo modder to tinker...

good luck & enjoy

Ktronik

johnnyspoke said:
I have one of the Magishine lights from Geoman. HOLY SMOKES it's bright. I used to run to dinotte 200l's....this is quite a bit brighter. I still run one dinotte on my helmet, but I can't really see it unless I look a different direction than the bars are pointing. For 89 bucks shipped, it's really a screaming deal. If I was getting a couple lights with a 200 budget, I'd look no further. Heck, even if I had DOUBLE to spend, I'd get the magicshines and use the rest for other stuff.

Cool feedback; nice to hear Magicshine Led Lightset handily beats the Dinotte 200Lumen LED Lightset engine.:)

Magicshine High Intensity LED Lightset based on the newly updated SSC-P7 Seoul Semiconductor quad core chip LED which typically produces 700lm when current is driven thru the LED chip at 2800mA with a forward voltage of 3.6V and able to produce 90 lumens per watt of energy consumed.

Post generally discusses comparing the SSC-P7 based LED Lightset 666lumen (Magicshine) versus the SSC-P4 based LED Lightset 200lumen (Dinotte 200L).

Parameters compared:

Cost per lumen comparison
battery run times comparison
physical setup comparison
physical configuration comparison
mounting options comparison
extending lightset run times comparison
lithium ion battery chemistry options comparison
LED Lightset beam quality comparisons hi/med/low intensities comparison
LED Lightset specifications comparison
Total Power in Watts generated by battery comparison
Total Power consumed at full load per hour-- high intensity comparison
Total Current consumed at full load power per hour -- high intensity comparison
Total Current consumed at low load -- low intensity -- low intensity comparison
Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination comparison
Total Power consumed at low illumination -- low intensity comparison
How many hours at low power with rated battery pack -- low intensity comparison
How many Lumens generated by LED Lamp at full power -- high intensity comparison
How many watts consumed by lamp at full illumination -- high intensity comparison
How many hours at high power with rated battery pack -- high intensity comparison
How much current consumed by LED lamp at medium power -- medium intensity comparison
How many watts consumed by LED lamp at medium power -- medium intensity comparison
How many hours at medium power with rated battery pack -- medium intensity comparison
Detailed indepth review on the SSC-P7 based LED Lightset 666lumen (Magicshine)
regarding above line item parameters

post has been revised to include all of the above information as of Oct 15 900am.

read/review post information and comment on any of the above line item parameters above if you have any information to add, amplify, or clarify that would make it a better and more informative posting for the benefit of the forum community readers; as that is purpose of posting.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dinotte 200L-AA-S Bike Headlight is a basic solid entry level 200lumen lightset that uses conventional readily obtainable rechargeable/disposable "AA" batteries almost everywhere inexpensively.;)

Dinotte 200L-AA-S Bike Headlight retails for approximately $150 that yields approximately 75cents per lumen which is a great deal for a great and well known reputable LED Lightset thrower/illuminator. (link provided for your reference if needed):;)

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_143922_-1_201529_10000_201537

The Magicshine MJ-808 retails for approximately $85 that yields approximately 12.8cents per lumen assuming approximately 666lumens, which is a great deal for a great throwing and illuminating LED Lightset that is giving the major light engine manufacturers a serious run for their money. (link provided for your reference if needed):;)

http://www.geomangear.com/index.php...ducts_id=138&zenid=tt8s64l8vo6338paikjv9i1732

Even better still get an additional Magicshine LED Lightset, one for the helmet mount and one for the handlebar mount to double up on illumination; with one providing fixed illumination duties on the handlebars and the other one providing variable point to shoot flood/spill illumination on the helmet.::thumbsup:

Now of course if one needed, wanted or desired to construct a "betty killer" illumination setup on a budget, one could always combo a third Magicshine on the handlebar and aim one far away down the road in the distance and one closer in front of the bicycle wheel so as to provide general flood illumination in front of the wheel as well as provide generally more dedicated far away illumination in the distance.:thumbsup: ;)

An added advantage of such a "betty killer" configuration setup would be the actual beam width would be naturally doubled also as well by having a double led lightset engine upfront as opposed to only a single lightset engine configuration setup.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The helmet mounted configuration would still be providing variable point to shoot flood/spill illumination on the helmet in its normally advantageous higher mounted illumination light source mounting position.;)

The combination of the three independent lighting sources (2handlebar/1helmet) even on the medium setting on the Magicsine LED Lightset (which is rated for 500lumens apiece) times three led light sources would add up to 1,500lumens; making the triple Magicshine LED Lightset a potential "betty killer" customized hybrid LED light configuration setup for less than $255.:thumbsup:

By running the Magicshine LED Lightset at only the medium(500lument) setting one can extend and optimize the total LED lightset total runtime to four hours or so; while still outputting sufficient the same 1500lumens lumination intensity.;)

Extending total light output plus 500Lumen High Power LED Lightset runtimes beyond fours is not only feasible but easily obtainable/affordable via cheap upgrades to the Li-Ion battery subsystem via an external battery pack. (link provided for your reference if needed):;)

Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 9aH external battery pack $80.00(not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of two 3.7V 9aH Polymer Li-Ion cells(good for >500recharges) $8.88 per amp::thumbsup:

http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerli-ionbattery74v9ah666whwithpcb.aspx

For those concerned with their Li-Ion chemistry external battery pack catching fire one can always opt for the safer alternative of encasing the external battery pack in an accompanying enclosure.:thumbsup:

Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 10aH external battery pack $140.00(also not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of four 3.7V 5aH Polymer Li-Ion cell(good for >500recharges) $14.00 per amp complete with trail tech connectors:;)

http://www.batteryspace.com/polymer...wh7arateinplasticenclsouretrial-techplug.aspx

For those concerned with their Li-Ion chemistry external battery pack catching fire one can always opt for the safer alternative of encasing the external battery pack in an accompanying enclosure while extending their total training run times for ultra-long illumination intervals an option might be.;)

Higher quality newer Polymer Li-Ion chemistry 25.2aH external battery pack $180.00(also not composed of 18650 cells) but composed of four 7.4V 12.6aH Polymer Li-Ion cell(good for >500recharges) $7.14 per amp complete with trail tech connectors::thumbsup:

http://www.batteryspace.com/polymerli-ionboxbattery74v252ah18648wh14aratewithtrial-techplug.aspx

The interesting thing with the mega capacity $180.00 25.2aH external Polymer Li-Lion battery pack would be capable of running all three Magicshine LED Lightsets in "betty killer 1500lumen mode" for approximately 7.5hours and still have the original three 4.4aH Magicshine Li-Ion batteries using them as backup for a total combined estimated run time of 11.5hours while still coming in well under betty budget busing led lightset and battery upgrade prices -->>$255 triple Magicshine MJ-808 plus $180 enhanced Polymer Li-Ion external battery subsystem equals $435 (29cents per lumen-->>1,500lumens) for the ultimate customized 1,500lumen "betty killer" running for up to 11.5 hours non-stop. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

feel free to chime in with feedback response and/or ideas on the ultimate "betty killer" mode design.
------------------------
for your reference I have included a weblink that illustrates some of the major LED Lightset manufactures and their respective beam characteristic patterns:

http://fonarevka.lux-rc.com/
------------------------
for your reference I have also in addition included the link of the Magicshine Lightset Manufacturer MJ-808 for their specification page below:

http://www.headlamp.cn/productsShow.asp?id=321
-------------------------
from the above specified link for the MinJin and geomangear (http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...38paikjv9i1732
) one can derive:

The batteries are 7.4VDC lithium ion batteries with 4.4AH of capacity that drives the battery for about three hours
and the low brightness illumination setting is 30percent of total illumination (200 lumens) and the medium brightness illumination
setting is five hundred lumens.
--------------------------
Now using rudimentary high school electricity/physics equations:

Power equals Voltage times Current

Voltage equals Current times Resistance

Voltage equals Power divided by Current

Resistance equals Voltage divided by Current

Current equals Voltage divided by Resistance
------------------------
From the above source known values one can find:
------------------------
Total Power in Watts generated by battery:

Power equals Voltage times Current

Power equals 7.4VDC times 4.4AH

Power equals 32.56Watts generated by battery over three hours:thumbsup:
------------------------
Total Power consumed at full load per hour:

Power equals Total Power divided by Time

Power equals 32.56Watt divided by three hours

Power equals 10.85Watts consumed at full load per hour:thumbsup:
------------------------
Total Current consumed at full load power per hour:

Total Current equals Power consumed in hour at full load divided by Voltage

Total Curent equals 10.85Watts divided by 7.4VDC

Total Current equals 1.466AH per hour:thumbsup:
---------------------------
Total Current consumed at 30 percent full load (low Magicshine setting):

Low illumination current (200lumens) equals Total Current time 30 percent of total current full load current illumination

Low illumination current (200lumens) equals 1.46AH time 0.30

Low illumination current (200lumens) equals 440maH at 200lumens:thumbsup:
----------------------------
Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination:

Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals low illumination current consumed divided by Lumen

Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals 440mA divided by one Lumen

Total current consumed to generate lumen of illumination equals 2.2ma/Lumen:thumbsup:
-----------------------------
Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshine setting (200lumens) equals Voltage times Current

Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshne setting (200lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 440maH

Total Power consumed at low illumination Magicshine setting (200lumens) equals 3.26Watts low power wattage:thumbsup:
-----------------------------
How many hours at low power (200lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals Li-Ion Battery current rating divided per hour low setting current draw

Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals 4.4aH divided 440maH

Time in hours at low illumination power setting(200lumens) equals 10 hours:thumbsup:
------------------------------
How many Lumens generated by Magicshine Lamp at high illumination setting at full power:

High illumination current flow equals 1.466aH

Current consumed per Lumen produced equals 2.2maH per Lumen

Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals high illumination current flow divided by current consumed per lumen generated

Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals 1.466aH divided by 2.2maH

Lumens generated by Lamp at high illumination equals 666Lumens:thumbsup:

Hey guys that's about what the max value for a type "C" bin P7 LED Lightset engine should produce ballpark depending on course of the particular driver used in application.
---------------------------------
How many watts consumed by lamp at full illumination.

Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshine setting (666 lumens) equals Voltage times Current

Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshne setting (666 lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 1.466aH

Total Power consumed at high illumination Magicshine setting (666lumens) equals 10.85Watts high power wattage:thumbsup:
---------------------------------
How many hours at high power (666lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals Li-Ion Battery current rating divided per hour high setting current draw

Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals 4.4aH divided 1.466aH

Time in hours at high illumination power setting(666lumens) equals 3 hours:thumbsup:

Hey guys, that is about what everyone is getting about three hours on high Magicshine setting.
---------------------------------
How much current consumed by Lamp at Medium setting (500lumens)

Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals Medium lumens times maH per Lumens

Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals 500Lumens times 2.2maH per Lumen

Current consumed at Medium setting (500lumens) equals 1.10aH:thumbsup:
-----------------------------------
How many watts consumed bye lamp at Medium (500lumens) illumination.

Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshine setting (500 lumens) equals Voltage times Current

Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshne setting (500 lumens) equals 7.4VDC times 1.10aH

Total Power consumed at Medium illumination Magicshine setting (500lumens) equals 8.14Watts Medium power wattage:thumbsup:
-----------------------------------
How many hours at Medium power (500lumens) illumination with 7.4VDC and 4.4aH rated Li-Ion battery

Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500lumens) equals Li-Ion battery current rating divided by per hour medium setting current draw.

Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500umens) equals 4.4aH divided by 1.10aH

Time in hours at Medium illumination power setting(500lumens) equals 4 hours:thumbsup:
-------------------------------------
Cheers, whew that was a heck of a review of high school electricity/physics review.

I actually had to crack open the books to review and practice.
--------------------------------------
Nice to review and know how to calculate the origins and answers from source derivative information but it all seems to check out as the answers seem to check out and are in what's called the "ball park" from what I have read on here in the mtbr and candlepower forums.
--------------------------------------
Review for Newly Purchased Magicshine MJ-808 P7 Based High Intensity LED Lightset Kit from Geoman is below as follows for your review and consideration:

Ordered the Magicshine P7 Based High Power LED Lightset Engine from Geoman. Order was processed promptly and accurately by Geoman. I am upgrading from a slightly dated led lightset in the form of a Princeton Switchback 1; so this will be a significant upgrade in terms of overall light lumen intensity.

I have seen some very good posted beamshots of the P7 Based Magicshine LED Lightset from a search on the internet; some very impressive looking illumination shots. I am willing to give the Magicshine MJ-808 high power led lightset the same chance I did with the Princeton Switchback I; as it looks like a great potential High Power Bicycle LED Lightset engine in the under one hundred dollar category.

As soon as I get the Magicshine after it ships from Geoman, I will factually share information of first product LED lightset impressions and in the field LED lightset impressions.

I got the Magicshine P7 Based High Power LED Lightset Engine from Geoman, the day after Columbus Day. Geoman by the way threw in the helmet mount as an added unexpected bonus to the Magicshine P7 based LED lightset kit. Many appreciative thanks to the Geoman or "G" Man for short.

I measured the Magicshine P7 based LED lightset head diameter dimension and it comes out to 1.5 inches and is 2 inches in lighthead depth for those concerned about it being bulky and/or heavy it definitely is lightweight as promised. The pushbutton on the back of the Magicshine LED lightset is about the size of a dime and is lit up with a green glowing LED when plugged into the 4.4aH Lithium Ion based battery pack.

The Magicshine lighthead bezel has a cool scalloped bezel design that makes it look very modern in styling. The Magicshine lighthead body behind the lighthead bezel has a concentric grooved cooling ridged design, with a professionally black anodized aluminum surface to help cool the LED lighthead.

The Magicshine lighthead power cord that goes to the external Lithium Ion based battery pack is a generous 45 inches long to allow the flexibility of mounting the battery pack wherever convienently desired.

If you enjoy the appearance and physical body design of the Lupine Tesla design this looks similar in most aspects and you will definitely like its cool, streamlined, sleek, lean body based looking LED Lightset design overall.

The external Lithium Ion battery pack is 2.75 inches height tall body and has side dimension of 1.5 inches on each side; so it is relatively small and lightweight with a nylon pouch included to allow one to wrap it underneath the handlebar near where the LED Lighthead is to be mounted on the handlebars.

The Magicshine P7 based lightset kit also comes with an AC adapter designed specifically to recharge the Lithium Ion based external battery pack rapidly/quickly and its DC output voltage is listed as 8.4VDC so as to enable the rapid recharging of the 7.4VDC external battery pack at a current rate of approximately 1.8aH equivalent to a recharging rate of 30ma per minute.

The external Lithium Ion battery pack only took about an hour to top off its charge and turn from the red glowing led on the recharging AC adapter to a green glowing led.

I followed the included yellow instruction sheet from the Geoman which clearly outlined the simple and self explanatory procedure to follow to cycle through the various five modes; the high, the med, the low mode intensities of illumination, along with the high frequency flash mode setting and the final strobe mode setting before going back to totally turning off the LED Lightset completely.

The two black latex mounting o-rings included are sized 1.5 and 2.0 inches respectively and the thickness of the two black latex mounting o-rings included are both 3/16 of an inch thick which looks like it can be bought at any local hardware store having black latex o-rings available or at geomangear for $4 for the small/large o-ring paired 1.5/2.0 inch o-ring set.

The included yellow instruction sheet also notes and mentions information regarding the lithium-ion battery should last approximately 300-500 charge/discharge cycles typically.

The sheet also mentions the lithium ion battery pack prefers partial discharges as opposed
to full discharges to lengthen, optimize and enhance the lithium ion battery packs longevity.

The lithium ion battery pack prefers to be discharged no more than 60% of total capacity:
4400maH times 0.60 equals 2,640maH. This would be equivalent to approzimately two and a quarter hours on medium(500lumens) illumination setting as a conservative estimate or alternatively one and three quarter hours on the highest illumination setting.

If one needed additional battery capacity requirements on the day of bicycle tour or ride as a battery backup or extension to battery reserve capacity; Geoman has spare/extra Lithium Ion battery packs for $40 per extra battery pack; also as well.

This is altogether, not a bad idea as in the colder upcoming autumn weather Lithium Ion battery pack capacity may be compromised by at least ten percent or more in total run time/capacity.

I will be taking the Magicshine P7 based lightset out on the local streets where I live with an outside temperature of about 48 degrees F here in New Jersey, running the lightset on the highest lumen P7 LED setting for about an hour or so in order to test the overall general lighting and beam width/depth/quality first impressions.

I will also use the helmet mounting option first as Geoman was so generous to have included it in the Magicshine lightset kit; so I figure I might as well test that also as well at the same time as testing the Magicshine Lightset overall.

Its was fairly easy and relatively self explanatory to use and mount the large two inch diameter black latex o-ring around the horn on the base of the LED Lightset and then thru the helmet mounting base and the other end of the o-ring around to the other side of the horn on the base of the LED Lightset to secure the Lightset engine securely.

The 3/16 of an inch thick black latex o-ring can best be fitted on the front horn best by first removing the small phillips head screw to facilitate the temporary removal of the black anodized aluminum base of the LED Lightset to initially set the black latex o-ring in its assigned channel due to the fact the front mounted lightset wire temporarily obstructs the path for securely inserting the black latex o-ring for its initial placement position in its channel/lip.

The utility of moving ones head is useful to custom aim/direct the Magicshine P7 Led Lightset where it is best illuminated and seen on the ground both in front of the bicycle as well as in the far off distance at high lumen intensity to evaluate the merits of overall general bicycle lighting and the desired beam width/depth/quality first impressions.

An additional added unintended potential benefit for both the touring and/or mountain bike cyclists might be the head mounted Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine might better illuminate, reveal subsurface road obstructions and follow the irregular contours of the road better as well as reveal some of the more subtle shadows of road surface irregularities before inadvertently hitting them unintentionally; as a result of its higher vantage point helmet mounting position.

Furthermore an added unintentional potential consequential benefit of having the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine mounted on the helmet might also help to further stabilize and reduce the undesired vibratory artifactual visual illumination based bouncing/shaking effects of mounting the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine on the handlebars; for example while cycling on rough mountain trails, obstruction/roots strewn paths; one can dynamically aim ones head to light and illuminate the desired path ahead; well in advance.

Additionally, mountain/touring biking cyclists may also wish and/or desire getting a second Magicshine P7 based light engine also mounted on the helmet; to increase the depth, illumination and the desired characteristic led lightbeam width, shape and quality by aiming the two individual independent Magicshine Lightset Engines in combination together; one dedicated for close range illumination and the other for far away illumination; similar to benefits achieved using a double shot led lightset engine setup (i.e. cateye twinshot)

Moreover, having a second Magicshine P7 based light engine mounted on the helmet affords one additional adjustment and scalability options in the adjustment of the total lumens scalability value that can be selected by the user.

To help illustrate the point; reference column matrix below (reference column number by the bracket grouping):

First column ----->> First Led Lighthead(lumens) is streetside
Second column ----->>Second Led Lighthead(lumens) is curbside
Third column ------>>Total Led Combination Lighthead(lumens) current draw along with battery run times for 4.4aH pack
Fourth column ------>>Derated battery run times for 4.4aH pack

(Off) / (200lumens(low)) / (200lumens equals 440ma / ten hours )--> (six hours(derated))

(200lumens(low)) / (200lumens(low)) / (400lumens equals 880ma / five hours) --> (three hours(derated))

(Off) / (500lumens(medium)) / (500lumens equals 1,100ma / four hours) --> (two hours +24min.(der.))

(Off) / (666lumens(high)) / (666lumens equals 1,466ma / three hours) --> (one hour +48min.(der.))

(200lumens(low)) / (500lumens(medium)) / (700lumens equals 1,540ma/two hours +51min)-->(one hr.+43min(der.))

(200lumens(low)) / (666lumens(high)) / (866lumens equals 1,905ma/two hours +18min)-->(one hr.+23min(der.))

(500lumens(medium)) / (500lumens(medium)) / (1,000lumens equals 2,200ma / two hours) -->(one hr.+12min.(derated))

(500lumens(medium)) / (666lumens(high)) / (1,166lumens equals 2,565ma / one hour +43min)-->(one hr.+2min(der.))

(666lumens(high)) / (666lumens(high)) / (1,332lumens equals 2,930ma / one hour +30min)-->(54minutes(derated))

The matrix table above shows just some of the potential possible combination that would become available for selection based on your personal preferences or circumstances on the night of the bicycle ride/tour.

Remember Lithium Ion batteries should not be discharged more than 60 per cent of total rated capacity.

4,400maH times 0.60 equals 2,640maH working current so make sure to derate the above calculated run times by 40 per cent,
in order to ensure one can potentially obtain the typical 500 Lithium Ion battery pack discharge cycles.

Derated run times is displayed for your reference if needed in the right last column in the matrix table.

Unfortunately, at the 1,000lumens, 1,166lumens and 1,322lumens illumination light levels the battery run times are only around an hour; so if continuous run times at these high intensity lumen light levels are anticipated, one would need extra Lithium Ion Battery packs to extend total run times to whatever one would need.

An investment in a quality P7 based Lightset is an investment in confident, safe and enjoyable nightime cycling. With that being said I will go into some amplifying details on some firsthand impressions of the Magicshine P7 based Lightset.

I definitely will have to say that the Magicshine P7 based Lightset Engine Kit is a very complete and impressively well put together kit; for the under the sub $100 category P7 based Lightset Engine.

The minimal very compact footprint profile and total weight of the lightset engine is sufficiently small that one can easily put two Magicshine Lightsets on ones helmet at the same time; as the lighthead is only about 240grams in weight along with its similarly lightweight and minimal 200gram external Lithium Ion based battery pack that is easily tucked away in ones rear cycling jersey pocket.

The forty-five inch cord from the lighthead that goes to the external battery pack is sufficiently long so as to easily reach ones rear cycling jersey pocket conveniently.

The dime sized rubber covered green glowing switch on the back of the lighthead has a nice tactile feedback quality and feel to it. The build qualty of the lighthead itself is decidedly excellent and solid in both feel and looks; which is very easy on the eyes due to the sleek black anodized coating on the lighthead's surface.

I went for my first ride last night with the Magicshine P7 based Lightset mounted on my helmet with the supplied helmet mounting bracket from Geoman. The helmet mount has a nice and great lightset head tilting adjustment feature that makes it easy to vary the vertical tilt angle evenly and smoothly in a controlled manner using only one hand; even while riding ones bicycle.

Kudos and many thanks to the Geoman for doing his homework and getting this helmet mounting bracket for his loyal and faithful customer/users; as I am sure that they will fully enjoy its exceptional utility and safety options it potentially offers to Magicshine Lightset users/customers.

All of you reading this are probably wondering how did the Magicshine P7 based Lightset perform. My initial trial bike ride with the Magicshine Lightset with it mounted to my provided helmet mount was for about an hour and fifteen minutes with the Lightset set on the highest lumen intensity for the entire ride.

The lighthead's beam quality is absolutely superb and intensely white and bright in intensity; with just the right amount of evenly divided spotlight and accompanying healthy amounts of needed desired spillover floodlight just outside the spotlight's corona.

Now being a user of the Princeton Tec Switchback I LED Lightset which is now a rather dated LED lightset; I just was not prepared for the light intensity in the LED spotlight and floodlight quality arena.

In comparison to the Princeton Tec Switchback I Lightset this is a spotlight and floodlight monster; as this is another level of bicycle lighting illumination altogether and will dramatically alter your nighttime cycling experience(s) at multiple level(s).

I was able to ride on my bicycle anywhere from approximately ten miles per hour on the flats to up to approximately twenty-two miles per hour on mildly sloping downhills with total utter confidence, safety and ability to see everything in front of the bicycle on the dark pitch black roadway.

As a result, I was able to rapidly settle into and enjoy my nighttime bicycle ride instead of worrying about being seen and also worrying about seeing what is in front of my bicycle safely. During the ride, I felt I never had to worry about slowing down for safety reasons; trying to read the road subsurface at night for potential road obstruction hazards or dangers.

I will have to definitely say this is one powerful and intense updated P7 based LED torch Lightset put out by the folks over at Magicshine and can safely say I have never seen or experienced such a high quality level of bicycle lighting illumination before in a bicycle lighting system. Kudos to the Geoman and Magicshine people for a job well done; to successfully bringing this product to the bicycle lighting market.

I have no doubt they will have no trouble selling many more of these now updated P7 based LED Lightsets once the good word of mouth advertising and good press release communications news gets out about how good the level quality of currently updated P7 based LED bicycling lighting system design has gotten.

During the one hour and fifteen minute nighttime bicycle ride, the Magicshine Lightset was set on its highest intensity setting the whole time and the Lithium Ion external battery pack did a fabulous job at maintaining this high level of light intensity without missing a beat.

Even after seventy five minutes of high light intensity being delivered to the P7 based LED Lighthead, the level of light intensity remained high during the whole time without any signs of fading or diminishment in light intensity.

I plugged in the Lithium Ion external battery pack into its Lithium Ion based recharging AC adapter and it recharged the battery pack in about an hour without any muss or fuss about it; with the LED on the recharging AC adapter turning green after it finished showing it was finally done recharging the Lithium Ion battery pack.

The whole Magicshine MJ-808 LED Lightset Kit is a well put together and thought out bicycle lighting system upgraded and enhanced with the newer P7 based LED Lighting technology which is now starting to be widely available and starting to enter the bicycling lighting system market.

Everything about the Magicshine P7 based LED Lightset offering; from the LED lighthead mounting system; to the LED lighthead beam quality and the LED lighthead casings modern and updated sleek black anodized looks; to the advanced Lithium Ion based external battery pack subsystem design and its battery run time life is fantastic.

These are all potentially desirable invaluable bicycle lighting system characteristics and traits in purchasing a potential bicycle lighting system.

When I was contemplating purchasing this particular Magicshine bicycle lighting system I was initially concerned with all of the above discussed referenced items in this review. I can safely say after having experienced firsthand; the Magicshine P7 based LED Lighting Kit System will immensely add a much appreciated measured level of added bicycling safety and enjoyment to your next nighttime serendipitous bicycle riding road/mountain experience; at a fair value price that cannot be beat, to boot.

To the guys at Geoman/Magicshine; many Kudos/thanks for bringing this updated P7 based LED bicycle lighting system product successfully to cyclists worldwide via the internet; finally cyclists on a global wide basis have an alternative choice when it comes to selecting both a decent and very powerful P7 based LED Lighting System for their nighttime bicycle lighting system needs.

Thanks guys for reading.;) cheers[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT]
 
That is the longest single post on any BB I've ever seen in my entire life! I'll need to come back to it to try and digest more of it later on! Nice post! It's a case of TMI, but in a good way! 8)
 
Yes, there is a lot of discussion about this particular P7 based LED Lightset Engine.

Some of it quite controversial on candlepowerforums, some of it accurate and some of it inaccurate.

Figured, I would post information that I have collected over a period of time; after taking the time to digest information trying to figure out what does all this information mean to a potential bicycling lighting system consumer.

Hopefully there will be less controversy, chaos and confusion.

There have been heated debates regarding P7 versus P4 LED designs in regards to the actual light output in lumens.

Unfortunately, it is not altogether that clear cut or simple as one would think and a little bit more information and analysis is needed.

So I have done the best that I can with the information that I currently have on hand and try to present it in such a way as to benefit the forum community at large to hopefully answer some of the more common frequently asked primary and secondary questions about this controversial P7 based LED Lightset Engine and hopefully others on this forum and others will share their experiences both positive and negative of course so that we can all learn from them.

If anyone has an infared temperature sensing thermometer, it would be nice to know what range of temperature values might one expect coming off a typical heat sinked P7 versus P4 LED Lightset Engine.

cheers
 
Thanks Daniel58,

There's no controversy from me. It's a great light at a great price. I think there are some folks who like other more expensive lights and are trying to defend their previous purchases! :wink:

The first batch of MS lights were of lower quality (swarf, not enough thermal compound, short screws, etc.). However, mine doesn't have any of those issues and has worked perfectly for me.

I've had mine for about a month now and it is amazing both as a light so others can see you as well as a light to light up the road. I use it in flash mode when it's bright outside for visibility to others and full-high power mode when it gets darker. The battery lasts a good long time and mounts easily on my bike's stem.

Ambrose
 
ambroseliao said:
Thanks Daniel58,

There's no controversy from me. It's a great light at a great price. I think there are some folks who like other more expensive lights and are trying to defend their previous purchases! :wink:

The first batch of MS lights were of lower quality (swarf, not enough thermal compound, short screws, etc.). However, mine doesn't have any of those issues and has worked perfectly for me.

I've had mine for about a month now and it is amazing both as a light so others can see you as well as a light to light up the road. I use it in flash mode when it's bright outside for visibility to others and full-high power mode when it gets darker. The battery lasts a good long time and mounts easily on my bike's stem.

Ambrose

Yes, its so true some people are in shock and awe that a new entrant into the marketplace can offer the lumen intensity of a Lupine Tesla class bicycle lighting system with reasonable quality.

Felt it was necessary to identify what this P7 based LED Lightset Engine represents to the potential bicycle lighting system consumer.

Perhaps its not the same level of quality as that of Lupine Tesla or Wilma or Betty class bicycle lighting system but then neither is the price ridiculously out of reach for most "Joe Six Pack" bicycle riding commuters/recreational cyclists; I will grant you that.

What it does represent however, is a major and exciting breakthrough in "lumens for dollars" for most "Joe Six Pack" bicycle lighting system consumers who just want a very bright (around 600-700 lumens) "no frills" bicycle lighting system?

I myself personally, use it everywhere and anywhere any kind of illumination is needed.

Literally overnight, it has handily rendered obsolete and replaced all my non-led flashlights as well as also rendering my personal collection of led flashlights in general to the status of secondary backup lighting sources (which is still needed on occasion).

Now this is primarily due to the fact that the P7 LED Lightset engine is so versatile in nature, powerfully bright, utilitarian and fully scalable to any job or task one might have at hand.

I use the head/helmet mount attachment all the time on mine and that allows handsfree operation literally.

Getting underneath the kitchen/bathroom sink, under the bathroom toilet, in the workshop as a workshop light, outside for mowing the lawn because the sun sets early, cycling of course, nighttime hiking without the fear of getting lost, going up to the attic to search for something, going to the basement to check on furnace/plumbing, checking underneath ones car or working on ones car after dark, etc. All of these tasks and many more now; are no problem or worry whatsoever anymore.

And guess what it has so far not let me down as of yet; go figure.

Now to be sure I had my doubts like others on these and other forum boards, but the more research I did; the more I became comfortable with the idea of using the new P7 based LED Lightset engine as a powerful lighting tool to illuminate whatever one might be doing on the spur of the moment.

Simply put, as a powerful LED lighting tool and for the price(this tool is no joke); one can derive a "whole lot of utility" from this indispensable tool; even though despite the fact it is not a Lupine Tesla/Wilma/Betty class "state of the art" (SOA) LED Lightset engine.

The Lithium Ion external battery pack is absolutely superb in both battery reserve capacity, lightset total runtime and profile size footprint.
It recharges quickly, simply and reliably as one would expect a powerful cordless drill battery without drama or theatrics.

The replacement Lithium Ion batteries are easily and universally available on the internet for no more than $40 apiece if one should need or desire a backup battery for the "piece of mind", have an extra battery on hand for "no matter what", or just doubling up on battery reserve capacity, its all affordable enough.

Now to be sure, I am almost certain I am going to come under attack from the Lupine "fanboys" shortly due to the above paragraphs, but I cannot afford to spend a small personal fortune for a set of very good (SOA) LED Lightset engines.

So this is a very good compromise and "substitute goods" for me and the "Joe Six Pack" P7 LED Lightset buying consumer as well.

To solve the problem of carrying the external Lithium Ion battery pack I wear an old recycled cycling jersey with the three pockets in the back; just in case one was wondering.

You may have other commentary, feedback, observations, thoughts, ideas to share with the other forum members so please do not hesitate with your reply responses whether they be positive or negative feedback it is all good.

cheers
 
WOW!! I am overwhelmed by all of the information on driving lamps/leds, maybe this is to simplestic as to current limiting using led's.

I am using some 9 led harbor freight flashlights, the eaiest way to current limit using old ideas, I used 3.5-4 volt Christmass lamps, they act as a ballast in current limiting, 3 in series will limit the current to about 100ma with a 5 to 8 volt~ input. (I use only 100ma [10ma~per lamp] when the lamps are on for many hours to lenghten their life {they get hot @ 200ma})

One can series/parrell lamps to do a simple current limit using led's on a higher voltage source. Maybe this is not the most efficent current limiting, but for my short trips at night the extra losses incurred if any, 200ma +/- for 15~ min., the actual losses are in the noise. (4- 200ma~, 9 led units in series with a 24volt input, with lamps in a series/parrell string.)

The lamps only glow when in use, so their life should be indefinite.

I installed some led night lites (yellow) going on some 15~ years now, using house juice with a wall transformer, they are still usable, on 24/365.

My $.02
 
JEB said:
WOW!! I am overwhelmed by all of the information on driving lamps/leds, maybe this is to simplestic as to current limiting using led's.

I am using some 9 led harbor freight flashlights, the eaiest way to current limit using old ideas, I used 3.5-4 volt Christmass lamps, they act as a ballast in current limiting, 3 in series will limit the current to about 100ma with a 5 to 8 volt~ input. (I use only 100ma [10ma~per lamp] when the lamps are on for many hours to lenghten their life {they get hot @ 200ma})

One can series/parrell lamps to do a simple current limit using led's on a higher voltage source. Maybe this is not the most efficent current limiting, but for my short trips at night the extra losses incurred if any, 200ma +/- for 15~ min., the actual losses are in the noise. (4- 200ma~, 9 led units in series with a 24volt input, with lamps in a series/parrell string.)

The lamps only glow when in use, so their life should be indefinite.

I installed some led night lites (yellow) going on some 15~ years now, using house juice with a wall transformer, they are still usable, on 24/365.

My $.02

I will try to break this down into the simplest terms so it is easier to understand, the job of the led driver is to ensure a stable constant source current that the led needs to run by dynamically adjusting the DC input voltage as needed.

Now for more Led driver product information for you particular intended LED application to be driven go over to ledsupply (link provided below)

http://ledsupply.com/wired-buckpuck.php

The link above details the specifications for whats called a wired buck puck module that acts like a current regulated led driver to power up ones led application.
Output voltage will vary as required to maintain the specified output current with differing forward drop voltages of LED junctions

Now the Buck Puck is designed to deliver a fixed current to the led; in this case that would be 350ma, 500ma, 700ma or 1000ma for whatever your LED application called for in the specifications data.

Look over the types of LED's on ledsuppy and configure your own particular led light array and combine that with your Buck Puck; just make sure to check and print out the specification page data for your particular led application along with the buck puck specifications page and make sure they match up and apply to your particular application.

cheers
 
It's been mentioned that some AC power supplies might work from 48-50VDC and up, and be able to power these kinds of lights from your traction packs, when looking to convert your pack's high voltage down to something some of the low-voltage LED driver boards like the one on Dealextreme can handle.

I may have found a way to power them from lower voltage traction packs pretty easily, via a cheap (free, actually) source of DC-DC converters, in old celphone chargers and other portable-device AC adapters.

I started going thru my collection of ac adapters, including a couple acquired from Freecycle today, and found a couple of Samsung celphone chargers (TAD137VSE) that output "5.0V @ 0.7A" for "100-240VAC @ 0.7A" which also output the regulated supply at as low as 23VDC input. I'm sure the current draw would be higher at the lower voltage, but I didn't test it at it's full output, only with a 1Kohm load on it (~5mA), which drew pretty much nothing on the source side according to the Sorenson's ammeter.

I tested by hooking the AC input of the charger to the DC output of my Sorenson 0-60VDC adjustable linear bench power supply, the 1Kohm load to the + and - output terminals of the charger, and the DMM on VDC across the resistor. Adjusting the Sorenson's output from 0V upward resulted in output from the charger around 3.5-4VDC starting at about 18VDC input from the Sorenson, swinging up to 5.14VDC output at a 23VDC input, stable at that voltage all the way to the 62VDC max output of the Sorenson.

It is stable at 5.14V with that load or no load; might regulate better to 5.0V at a higher load. One diode in series with it should drop it enough to not worry about for the LED boards on the bike lights.

It's around 3.5W output capability at 5V, about 3.1W with the diode dropping almost half a watt across it at full load. So depending on what the LEDs draw, one of these might easily supply that LED board. Two paralleled would work if one won't, and they're quite small and light, even if left in the original little wallwart cases. If used like that, the long lower-voltage wire from it could be run to the light, rather than the higher full-pack voltage, making it safer if a wire were ever shorted somehow.

Alternately, they could be built into the lights' housings, and just run full pack voltage there (with a fuse or micro-breaker at the pack end).

I have a bunch of others not yet tested that range from 4.5V to 6.0V outputs, and from 100mA to over 1A output capabilities.

Some of the ones tested wont' start until they reach 50V or more. The Samsungs were the first ones I found that work at such a low voltage.
 
To cut through all the expensive stuff (the Christmas lamps are still the cheapest) use a lm317 as a current regulator, go to;

http://users.telenet.be/davshomepage/current-source.htm

for a complete information rundown. (3 volt voltage drop)
 
I just bought a cree 3 watt for $12 Its awesome bright at 3.8v.

Three of them is going to be as bright as I need. Even 11X1 watters is going to be enough. I really should get my hands dirty and build some driver for them but its much easier to match your voltage with leds in series and just use a resistor, not over power them so its reliable. To be perfect a divider over the series isnt too hard. What to do?

Inductors and timers vs a resistor. Driver vs the led in series. Either way can be designed cheap, safe and efficient.
 
JEB said:
the Christmas lamps are still the cheapest

Would you expand on that comment? I'm always looking for inexpensive and easy ways to do things.
 
Hi JG, A long story--- Years ago I purchaced a bunch of mini Christmas lights -35 on a string for $1.50, needed a testing rig to check NMH AA cells after charging. At work they were using NC cells and built a very complicated electronic system using digital timers relays voltage compartors (sp) etc- What I built was the simplest load/timer I could think of , a 1.5 volt clock from clockkit- 3.5 volt~ lamps, they have a fairly flat current/voltage load, when the volts dropped to around .9 the clock would stop. (read out hours/min) Easy way to select the best cells. (clock/lamps in parrell)

I like led's, I light my whole house with them, a hundred or more in every room, using a resistor in series with the led, and in the same enclosure, the whole thing would heat up alowing the led to draw too much current. What I use now is a 5-6volt wall transformer with 3 light bulbs in series with the led's (9 to 10 in parrell) for a 100ma~ draw, the voltage can be as high as 8volts and still be around 100ma, close enough for me. I have been using some cheap China import led's, even though they rate them at 200ma their life is too short, so 100ma works ok. just use more.

Some battery enclosed fixtures from Costco have more of a current draw, so 6 lamps work better, 3 in series, X2, then place them in parrell.
 
It looks like DX has put up a diving version of this LED in a flash light format. $81 for 900 lumens.

Diving Cree SSC-P7-C-SXO 3-Mode 900-Lumen LED Flashlight Kit (2*18650/4*CR123A/4*16340)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29069

Ambrose
 
After my first real night ride with a Walmart special headlight, I cleaned out my underwear and found the reviews for the Magicshine. I just installed the lighthead that I got from Geoman, and was wondering if there are any lurkers out there that have come up with a clever way of mounting it. I found a while back on another EV forum that ti.com will send you free samples, but not sure of what the requirements are. I use a university email address and haven't had a problem so far. I am using a 30w 36v-75v dcdc converter from them, and have it setup to output it's max rating of 5.5V inside an aluminum project box I got off of Ebay and cutdown to fit the power supply. The lighthead draws about 2amps max(.25A from pack after converter) and will operate fine down to about 5.4V (although power led is always red of course). After that it gets a bit flaky. Tomorrow will be my first real test ride with it but not expecting any issues.
As you can see from the pic, I have my power supply box mounted below the lighthead with some zip ties. I am thinking of mounting the power supply box onto a handlebar mount that swivels,and mount the lighthead on top of that. Any ideas?
 

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Seems that DX has posted a new Magicshine LED headlight. I don't see any major differences except that the circuitry is rated for 1,000 mA instead of the 2,400 mA of the old one. The new one has 5 modes while the old has 3.

Here's the new one:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.30864
Here's the old one:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.25149

I have one of each of the 3 mode and the 5 mode. Not sure if my 5 mode is the same as DX's. They are equally bright. I bought my 5 mode from the thesingletrackstore.com and my 3 mode from DX.

Total cost was around $130. I use a "Y" power cord to power both lights from the one battery.

Dual Magicshine Lights.jpg
 
Interesting. Didn't know there was a 3 mode version. The one I got from Geoman is the 5 mode version. I am taking the light off of my handlebars and putting my old blinky walmart light back on. I ordered the headstrap from Geoman and extra long cord so I can plug into my power supply. I love the light and think it would work even better mounted on my helmet.
I notice that the listing states it comes with the helmet mount, and a UK style plug charger. Do they sell only the headlamp (couldn't find it)?
 
DX does not sell the light head by itself. Geomangear.com and thesingletrackstore.com sell the head separately for $45ish.

Ambrose
 
I got one of these SSC P7s from DX, $35 delivered
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19767

Supposedly also 900lm but I don't have anything else that powerful to compare with. It's direct driven which is supposedly a plus, but I don't know... It's not as blazingly bright as I thought it would be given all the rave reviews, but I guess it's good enough to ride bush trails at night at reasonable speeds so what else do I want ?
I guess for the price you could fit 2 and still be in front. A second one with a tighter spot aimed higher would be ideal.
 
For those looking for really cheap and don't mind DIY, and have a pack above 48V (for areas using 110-120VAC) or 72V (for areas using 220-240VAC), this is about as cheap as you get:
1DrivewayOverheadsOff Rear View ISO1000 DSC02070.JPG
4DrivewayOverheadsOff Front View ISO1000 .JPG
Yard Rear View CFL light ISO1000 DSC02080.JPG

The headlight beam could stand improvement, and I'm working on that, but if you want something people can see *you* by, and you can see the area in front of you with, well, this works.

The taillight is just...superb. :)

DSC02042.JPG
DSC02007.JPG
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14193&start=0
 
Heh dude that's so ghetto :lol:

I just went for my first proper night ride, about 15ks through national park fire trails. The P7 was pretty good and enabled me to do about 30km/hr while feeling safe. I took it up to about 45km/hr a few times but it was a bit sketchy at those speeds on narrow or twisty sections of the tracks. For not riding like a mad man one is fine but I still think adding a second one with a tighter spot aimed higher would be perfect.

I find pictures are a bit misleading with the shutter speeds and different exposures. I might make a video next time if anyone is interested
 
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