I have a 1000w hub and it comes with some dull looking mounting hardware, what should i replace it all with, and is there anything that will help keep it all nice and tight (blue loctite?). i plan to atleast replace the washer with two nord-locks. i was also thinking of replacing the big nut with a big locknut.
New bolting hardware
- Thread starter ian.mich
- Start date
hjns
100 kW
pics?
cal3thousand
10 MW
ian.mich said:
Nord-locks are sufficient. It will not come loose with Nord-locks properly fastened
dogman dan
1 PW
Unless you already stripped the axle.
In general, it's the poorly threaded axle that is the weak point, not the nuts. However, some kits have arrived with just as bad nuts. Take a nut to the hardware store, find the bolt it fits on, then you will know what type nut you want to replace it with.
Often a good approach is to look at lug nuts that have more thread depth, allowing a bit more torque to be used on the wrench.
But personally, I have my own opinion. Nuts that work loose without regen involved have either had the axle threads stripped, or they had miss fitting washers. C washers, grinding stock washers to fit better, etc is the real key to having your nuts stay tight.
That motor washer rarely really fits a bike dropout stock.
In general, it's the poorly threaded axle that is the weak point, not the nuts. However, some kits have arrived with just as bad nuts. Take a nut to the hardware store, find the bolt it fits on, then you will know what type nut you want to replace it with.
Often a good approach is to look at lug nuts that have more thread depth, allowing a bit more torque to be used on the wrench.
But personally, I have my own opinion. Nuts that work loose without regen involved have either had the axle threads stripped, or they had miss fitting washers. C washers, grinding stock washers to fit better, etc is the real key to having your nuts stay tight.
That motor washer rarely really fits a bike dropout stock.
dogman said:
this is what i was looking for. sorry for my vague words, i meant dull as in weak-looking, the threads on bothe the bolt and axle are fine, I was just looking for an upgrade. i think the addition of Nord locks and C washers will make my hub stay nice and tight. what about loctite of some sort, will that help too?
cal3thousand
10 MW
ian.mich said:
It might help, but the main concern in these cases is loosening from dynamic vibrations. Nord-locks KILL that, so the loctite would just add to difficulty when removing.
Have you seen the youtube?:
[youtube]mgwmuZuJ02I[/youtube]
Chalo
100 TW
150 years of applied practice with bicycle fasteners suggests that vibration levels do not reach such intensity that relatively expensive, inconvenient measures such as Nord-Lock washers are necessary or desirable. In fact, I have never seen a nylock nut with intact insert come loose in practice, in over twenty years of servicing other people's bikes.
To be dissatisfied with a loose, horrible "grade zero" nut, and then immediately jump to the conclusion that some engineering cult specialty item is necessary, is akin to getting punctures in a $10 tire and thus deciding that you need a liner, an extra-thick tube, and a sealant in the same tire. Rather than accept the tradeoffs of that approach, why not try a better tire first, and reap some benefits instead?
In another thread, someone suggested automotive lug nuts, which have a longer and more precise thread than the cheap junk supplied with cheap Chinese hub motors. I think a good quality nut would be a more appropriate next step than proceeding straight to a solution designed for much more extreme conditions.
Chalo
To be dissatisfied with a loose, horrible "grade zero" nut, and then immediately jump to the conclusion that some engineering cult specialty item is necessary, is akin to getting punctures in a $10 tire and thus deciding that you need a liner, an extra-thick tube, and a sealant in the same tire. Rather than accept the tradeoffs of that approach, why not try a better tire first, and reap some benefits instead?
In another thread, someone suggested automotive lug nuts, which have a longer and more precise thread than the cheap junk supplied with cheap Chinese hub motors. I think a good quality nut would be a more appropriate next step than proceeding straight to a solution designed for much more extreme conditions.
Chalo
nicobie
100 MW
Justin at grin tech sells the nylon core lock nuts.
cal3thousand
10 MW
Chalo said:
This is ES and these are (potentially) high powered ebikes. A loose nut on a pedal bike does not equate to danger and motor damage as it does in our realm. Also, the vibrations caused by pedaling a bike are virtually nil compared to the vibrations occuring on an e-bike.
I paid $4 per motor (2 pairs on a motor). Overkill is fine for a couple bucks.
I think being totally overkill is very warranted when dealing with ebikes, especially over 5kw lol, plus less time tightening is definately worth my $4. btw, what size of nord-locks are good for the regular DD hubs (9C kinda thing). I'll also be looking into the nylon bolts, hopefully home depot has something.
hjns
100 kW
Well, with 5kW, I don't rely on my bolts too much. I rely on the combo of my DrBass TA + DYI steel TAs, and just tighten the bolts to prevent the axle from vertical movement. Quite some people use a clamping device, which is even more appropriate.
If DD motors would come with an integrated universal TA, it would be even better. To fixate the hubmotor with 2 points (axle + TA) instead of 1 (axle only) is just common sense to me.
If DD motors would come with an integrated universal TA, it would be even better. To fixate the hubmotor with 2 points (axle + TA) instead of 1 (axle only) is just common sense to me.
itchynackers
100 kW
I run Nordlocks, kevlar tires, liners, thick tubes, and automotive slime. It's called insurance, against a blowout/failure at 45mph. Chalo, you do have auto insurance dont you? Well maybe you should just drop it to save a few bucks.
Chalo
100 TW
itchynackers said:
It's called paying with the quality of every single ride for something that perhaps might happen, that you perhaps might not be able to manage elegantly. (Not the Nord-Locks, but the tires).
Good enough is good enough. Less is more. Perfection is attained when there is nothing else to be taken away. That's the essence of the bicycling ethos, and it has worked fine for me for 25 years and counting. I suppose, philosophically speaking, that the fundamental ethos of e-biking might be more like "why not put some gravy on it, just because you can?", but I still approach e-cycling as just cycling.
As for car insurance, I would first need to have a car to derive any worth from that! Talk about too much tool for the job.
Chalo
agniusm
1 MW
Never the less the washer design is cleaver and in high vibration situation i bet they are irreplaceable. On a bike be it electric i don't think that there will be vibrations close to half of that on tests be it 20kw bike.
cal3thousand
10 MW
Chalo said:
That's fine. The rest of us that think a bit differently will continue to approach our e-bikes as a new class of vehicle requiring new methods (however much they are based on other classes above [moto] or below [cycle] is not the issue)
ian.mich said:
They are 14mm (9/16")
