New Controller and Display Issues

[adamsavage79]

So I have a new KT 36V/48V 1500W/1800W 45A Controller controller and the exact display is KT-LCD3 V3.0 5am 24/36/48. I've included all the info I have on my motor as well.

Couple issues I have.

1. I can't figure out how to get back my proper speed read out, and power usage in wattage. I changed something and now I can't figure out what I changed.
2. My torque seems to be limited.. The controller is 45A and the motor can handle 35, and was running at 25A before. I tried changing C5 to 10 and I get the speed I should get but my torque seems lacking
3. It's bit rough when it first starts up from a dead stop, but then is fine once u get up to speed. Not sure if this is a speed setting.
4. I can't seem to get my PAS to work either.

Suggestions ?

 

[slaphappygamer]

I’m not too sure about 1, but it may resolve itself when the other parameters are corrected.

2- try P3 at 0. This means the system will deliver power based on current and not speed. At 1, speed would be limited for each PAS level.

3, you can try C14 at 1, 2, or 3. 1 being weak start, the normal, and strong

4, try C1. I have a 12 pole PAS sensor on the non drive side if the bike and had mine set 3. I played with this setting. I noticed that some options disabled the PAS. Yours may not need to be 3, but you can try the other options as well.

I used the KT controller with a geared hub motor. So my settings should be different than yours.

 

[E-HP]

So I have a new KT 36V/48V 1500W/1800W 45A Controller controller and the exact display is KT-LCD3 V3.0 5am 24/36/48. I've included all the info I have on my motor as well.

Couple issues I have.

1. I can't figure out how to get back my proper speed read out, and power usage in wattage. I changed something and now I can't figure out what I changed.

Does this mean that everything was functioning properly (PAS worked, startup was smooth, etc.) before you made the changes?
Can you post a pic of the controller label? The controller you linked is rated at 22A (not 45A), but can peak at 45A, so you wouldn’t want to run it continuously at 45A.

 

[adamsavage79]

Does this mean that everything was functioning properly (PAS worked, startup was smooth, etc.) before you made the changes?
Can you post a pic of the controller label? The controller you linked is rated at 22A (not 45A), but can peak at 45A, so you wouldn’t want to run it continuously at 45A.

Yes, It was working. I don't know why I never caught the 22A part. So that's even less than my old controller which was 25A. No wonder it takes so long to get up to speed. I'm debating on seeing if the old controller even works still, or getting a replacement and just use that for winter, and use scooter for non winter months.

EDIT: Changing C14 to 3 , the bike felt more normal and got up to speed faster. Still can't figure out what setting I changed that gives me no wattage being used and the speed read out is a good 20 kph off.

EDIT2: Changing P2 to zero gave my speed read out. Just need my power usage and figure out that rough start.

 

[E-HP]

Yes, It was working. I don't know why I never caught the 22A part. So that's even less than my old controller which was 25A. No wonder it takes so long to get up to speed. I'm debating on seeing if the old controller even works still, or getting a replacement and just use that for winter, and use scooter for non winter months..

No, the controller will output 45A, but you just can’t do that all day or it will overheat. Just like you can’t drive for hours with your accelerator floored in your car, something is going to break.

 

[AGS]

3. ‘It's bit rough when it first starts up from a dead stop, but then is fine once u get up to speed. Not sure if this is a speed setting”.

Is it a sine wave or square wave controller? If it’s square then that would explain the rough start up.

 

[adamsavage79]

I believe it's a square wave controller, As it doesn't specifically mention sine wave.

 

[E-HP]

I believe it's a square wave controller, As it doesn't specifically mention sine wave.

So you said everything was working correctly, including the rough start issue, before you made changes, correct? The square wave issue is not related to settings, so wouldn't explain the rough start. I don't think any settings would correct that. A rough start could also be poor connections on your phase wires. If the controller is dual mode and can function sensorless, then if you had a hall sensor issue and it reverted to sensorless, that would also cause a rough start.

 

[adamsavage79]

I took it for a test ride today, and if I pedal a bit to get it up to 15- 20 kph and then engage throttle it's not as bad that noise. The max speed was normal. The acceleration might normal or close to it. Defiantly gets up to max speed faster if I pedal to help the motor. Still don't know why motor power usage isn't working. I made a tech service appointment with a shop that is familiar with the KT displays in hopes they can figure it out and get my PAS working. Though I technically don't need it, as pedalling as the motor is going helps anyway. I never use pedal only mode.

 

[slaphappygamer]

You have C14 at 3, the strongest assist. Try 2. Is it better? The power might be ramping up too fast and the motor is having a hard time producing.

You can also change C5 from 10 to 01. This will be a slower (smoother) start.

It’s great that you found a shop. Save their number!

 

[adamsavage79]

I had my c5 at 8 before and it lowered my top end speed before, so i brought it back up to 10. My c14 is set for 2 already. I even wrote down all the setting values in case i forget what i changed.

 

[adamsavage79]

I finally got my power reading to work. I had to change C11 setting from 1 to Zero.