New controller, new throttle, wheel still won't turn

[njdjninja]

I posted earlier in the summer that my Davinci e-scooter (similar to Motorino) just stopped working one day. The ignition turned on, the lights worked but the throttle did nothing. I figured it was the throttle as mine was a little beat up. It was just a throttle with a killswitch. I bought a new one that didn't have the killswitch but had a 3-speed button. My bike had been rebuilt a few times before me and had been set to one speed thus not requiring the 3-speed switcher. Once I hooked it up and realized I wasn't getting proper meter readings I took apart controller to have a look and saw that it was blown everywhere. I ordered a new controller.
Now, previously I had been running a 60v controller with 72 volts of battery and charging with a 72-volt charger. It had worked fine for a couple of years. I decided to get a 72v controller this time. I had an option for 800watts or 1000 watts. I thought I chose the 1000 watts but when it arrived I saw it was 800. I don't know anything about watts and don't know if that could make a difference but when I check continuity on everything, every hall, phase, all connecting wires, throttle, etc. all is good but I turn the throttle and nothing happens. I have a new rear hub motor wheel and it tested good oo. Why won't the freakin thing turn my rear wheel??? I'm at my witts end and all I can think it might be now is that I didn't connect the throttle to the speed switch wire coming from the new controller. Would that make the difference since my bike was only an "on /off" throttle and now I need it to shift? I have 6 wires coming from the throttle and not sure what to do next. HELP ME PLEASE!

 

[Voltron]

pictures would help a lot...

 

[fechter]

There are several things that typically can make a controller not work.

Invalid motor hall signals
Out of range throttle signal voltage
Battery voltage too high or too low
Brake switch input

There's often a bunch of wires for things you don't really need for it to run, so don't hook up anything that's not needed until you get it running. Be extra careful with the wires going to the throttle as there is often one with full pack voltage for the battery meter. If you touch this one to the wrong thing, something is likely to fry.

You can measure the inputs and signals with a voltmeter. Use the main battery negative as the reference for the measurements.

Also don't assume the colors on the new controller will match up with the old one (unless the controller is factory built for that model). Well, even then they don't always match up.

Many controller have a little LED on the board that will flash an error code telling you which thing is causing a problem. Problem is you have to take the end off the controller box to see it and the codes vary depending on the model.

 

[TommyCat]

Would just like to add energizing the controller's ignition or power up wire to Fechter's list. It enables the controller's electronics.

 

[njdjninja]

Before I got a chance to read these replies we tested the hall wires coming from both rear hub motors and now neither of them are showing anything. Is there a possibility that when we hooked up the old controller to them before we knew the first controller was shot, that we blew BOTH hub motors? If that is the case, am I at risk of having fried the new throttle as well?

 

[fechter]

Even if they are blown, you should see some kind of voltages on the halls. If you have nothing, like zero volts, then I would suspect something upstream feeding the voltage regulator.

If you unplug the motor halls and the throttle, you should be able to see 5v somewhere on the wires that go to the halls and throttle coming from the controller.

What TommyCat is pointing out is to check the skinny wire that feeds pack voltage to the "ignition" wire on the controller. This wire usually goes to the on/off switch but may also be just tied to the main pack positive depending on how your main switch is wired.