New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)

[bigmoose]

Thanks Nick! It will take me a while, as I "ponder" too much, and build too little!

7 turns of (Qty 9) #25 = 0.01585 square inches of Cu; and 6 turns of (Qty 2) #18 = 0.01530 square inches... so it is a wash on copper fill and no real net gain. I may have to keep fiddling with it, and see if I can find #17 and then see if it will fit. That would be a 26% increase, and I bet it won't fit the slot.

I have a pristine HS3040 from Methods, but as many have stated, the exit wiring needs a bit of work. It is always easier to have two of something to play around with modifying! Especially when one is already apart! (Thanks again.) ... I had the bare stator laying around, and I had to keep reminding the wifey to keep her laptop well away from it...

 

[Kiwi]

I have a HS3548 and a HS3540, both sensored. Methods 100v100a controller and Xlyte 72v45a sensorless.
Still sitting in box here unlaced. Pretty nervous now about Kentucky Fried Crystalyte. Turnigy temp monitors going in both of them before I play.
I bought 5 motors, 3 have gone out to other New Zealand e bikers.
I have so many builds going on, it will be weeks before I get these guys running, but will give a good comparison between the two windings.

..I am thinking about mid mounting the 3548 driving through to a nuvinci...24", lipo...

 

[groundproximity]

For those who still think about the HSx and controller combination:
Tried the HS3525 sensorless on 16s A123 and the new, no PAS crystalyte sensorless controller 48V/40A. Unfortunately only on the test stand but the throttle response was very smooth up to full speed. Turning the wheel against rotation and applying throttle - no problem. I will try and report the dead stop scenario on a hill as soon as the trike is finished.
I had trouble getting the CA to work on that particular controller but i guess Justine wrote about that before.

 

[Spacey]

I'm getting worried now, I have one of the very first shipments of HS3540's and has done about 700miles so far on it.... I thought these were the best of the best so forked out the money to upgrade from 9C 2807.

But now I am crapping myself about the wires possibly getting sliced by the wheel and breaking my controller! Looks like I'll have to stripit a bit and see what I can do to stop that from happening.

Kenny, you have any ideas?

 

[itselectric]

I'm getting worried now, I have one of the very first shipments of HS3540's and has done about 700miles so far on it.... I thought these were the best of the best so forked out the money to upgrade from 9C 2807.

But now I am crapping myself about the wires possibly getting sliced by the wheel and breaking my controller! Looks like I'll have to stripit a bit and see what I can do to stop that from happening.

Kenny, you have any ideas?

Yes, Spacey, i have the simplest solution to prevent wire cut. It only takes 5 minutes to solve this problem. Here is the final result.



I will posted a detail instruction on a new topic, this topic is getting 50 page of information and continue to grow, it makes it hard to find information that you need.

Ken

 

[groundproximity]

Ken,

did you just turned the inner plastic cover 180° and dremeled a new cable guide/outlet like others suggested before?

Anyone thought about glueing the cable to the axle notch in the area where it rubs the black plastic seal and then in addition use the plastic cover 180° mod?

 

[Hyena]

Why are you rotating it and making a new hole on the other side when you could just enlarge the existing one ? Or am I missing something ?

 

[groundproximity]

That´s how i understood the plastic piece mod: Any corrections - please post.

I think that the marked piece of plastic doesn´t hold the cable tight enough to the axle. Therefore you could turn it and make a better hole that keeps the cable closer to the axle or - that´s what i thought - epoxi the cable to the axle until a 1/4" beneath the plastic ring and then guide it through that plastic ring with dremel smoothened edges. That should prevent the rubbing between the seal and cable.

 

[Spacey]

I'm getting worried now, I have one of the very first shipments of HS3540's and has done about 700miles so far on it.... I thought these were the best of the best so forked out the money to upgrade from 9C 2807.

But now I am crapping myself about the wires possibly getting sliced by the wheel and breaking my controller! Looks like I'll have to stripit a bit and see what I can do to stop that from happening.

Kenny, you have any ideas?

Yes, Spacey, i have the simplest solution to prevent wire cut. It only takes 5 minutes to solve this problem. Here is the final result.



I will posted a detail instruction on a new topic, this topic is getting 50 page of information and continue to grow, it makes it hard to find information that you need.

Ken

Appreciated.

 

[itselectric]

Ken,

did you just turned the inner plastic cover 180° and dremeled a new cable guide/outlet like others suggested before?

Anyone thought about glueing the cable to the axle notch in the area where it rubs the black plastic seal and then in addition use the plastic cover 180° mod?

groundproximity:
that is correct. Just create your own groove and allow the wire exit from the top, instead of 90 degree bend against rubber seal, which is the cause of the cut wire.

Like I say, this topic should be by itself, so others can find it easily. If others had already mentioned here, i am sorry if I made double posting. There are just too much information in this posting here. May be I just don't know how to search.

Ken

 

[deVries]

what i found disapointing is the poor machining of the axel groove for the phase wires.. the axel look like cheaper than on the X5... and the groove is narrower on the HT motor.

The axle is cheap crap . We are thinking of designing and making a 8) better one.

How easy is it to replace the axle? Can axle parts be ordered to replace the existing axle?

Are you going to offer a custom axle to ES members, or does anyone know a source to do this?

 

[electricwheels.de]

what i found disapointing is the poor machining of the axel groove for the phase wires.. the axel look like cheaper than on the X5... and the groove is narrower on the HT motor.

The axle is cheap crap . We are thinking of designing and making a 8) better one.

How easy is it to replace the axle? Can axle parts be ordered to replace the existing axle?

Are you going to offer a custom axle to ES members, or does anyone know a source to do this?

We're working on it ... well, we will definitely do so after the summer holiday .

But just for interest, what size wires would you guys want to put through there? What is the outer diameter of these wires? What kind of thread would you prefer? 1/2" UNF? M14? Do you want extra long threads? What else would you like to incorporate?

 

[parabellum]

How easy is it to replace the axle? Can axle parts be ordered to replace the existing axle?

Are you going to offer a custom axle to ES members, or does anyone know a source to do this?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28039

 

[sn0wchyld]

That´s how i understood the plastic piece mod: Any corrections - please post.

I think that the marked piece of plastic doesn´t hold the cable tight enough to the axle. Therefore you could turn it and make a better hole that keeps the cable closer to the axle or - that´s what i thought - epoxi the cable to the axle until a 1/4" beneath the plastic ring and then guide it through that plastic ring with dremel smoothened edges. That should prevent the rubbing between the seal and cable.

hey GP, can you link me to that original 180deg discussion/thread, i cant seem to find it anywhere!! is it basically pull out the black sealent gunk, pull that black plastic peice that guides the wire out from the axle and turn it 180deg, redrill and refit? I dont have a dremiel so would a drill work ok?

sorry for the abundance of q's just worried about killing my build before i get to ride it !!

cheers

 

[itselectric]

That´s how i understood the plastic piece mod: Any corrections - please post.

I think that the marked piece of plastic doesn´t hold the cable tight enough to the axle. Therefore you could turn it and make a better hole that keeps the cable closer to the axle or - that´s what i thought - epoxi the cable to the axle until a 1/4" beneath the plastic ring and then guide it through that plastic ring with dremel smoothened edges. That should prevent the rubbing between the seal and cable.

hey GP, can you link me to that original 180deg discussion/thread, i cant seem to find it anywhere!! is it basically pull out the black sealent gunk, pull that black plastic peice that guides the wire out from the axle and turn it 180deg, redrill and refit? I dont have a dremiel so would a drill work ok?

sorry for the abundance of q's just worried about killing my build before i get to ride it !!

cheers

sn0wchyld, Spacey, groundproximity:

I just posted the solution in this thread here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29731&p=429300#p429300

Ken

 

[rui_fujino]

hi guys, has anyone actually done 72v setup with HS3540 yet?
im interested of upgrading to it if the top speed is good with price... but then as far as i know all the problems are putting me off from even getting new motor...
how may types of controller is available so far for the sensor-less? i know you can get 72v40 and 72v45a at moment...

 

[Julez]

We're working on it ... well, we will definitely do so after the summer holiday .

But just for interest, what size wires would you guys want to put through there? What is the outer diameter of these wires? What kind of thread would you prefer? 1/2" UNF? M14? Do you want extra long threads? What else would you like to incorporate?

Wow! There is hope! First of all, M14 would be nice. Extra long threads as well. One can always saw them off, if not needed.
I think the material also need consideration. The 406 Axle of my push trailer motor begins to rust. Would it be possible to machine the axle from stainless steel? This stuff is a bitch to machine, but I think it would be worth it.

Cheers,

Julez

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I have to say now, that I agree with DocBass. I won't be going near these motors anytime soon. Everything about them just seems to be half-assed and rushed together. This is the sort of quality I would expect from a Cammy_CC motor, or a Conhismotor 9C knockoff.

While I don't want to be sensationalist, and while I don't want to dismiss the fact that people have had very good performance results with these motors, the bottom line is that the tried-and-tested qualities of the X5 range remain the determining factor for me.

Sure, they are heavier, but they are better built, offer greater endurance and can be run with a sensored or a sensorless controller.

Removing the sensors, offering a lighter but poorer manufactured motor, with associated issues like wire shredding, less heat-capacity etc.......sorry. I think this motor falls between two stools, of the X5 and the 9C.

Just my $0.02.

 

[wojtek]

i understand your point. But as someone said correctly HS/HT are great motors to be run at under 2000W. More than that might be too much for it.
Re the cable thing - yes it sucks! But there is quite easy solution for it. Sensorless - no issue for me. I run it on my scorpion fs, on road / off road. LITTLE movement is enough to engage motor. Anyway who wants to start a bike on a motor alone? The only real problem is starting on very steepy hill. But how many times you will have a situation like that? If many times, then the sensorless is not for you.
Yes i did criticize this motor and crystalyte for many things around this new motor on this forum, but now i have been actually using it and the results are very positive for someone looking for a low power motor up to 2000W / 40-50kmh.

 

[rui_fujino]

i understand your point. But as someone said correctly HS/HT are great motors to be run at under 2000W. More than that might be too much for it.
Re the cable thing - yes it sucks! But there is quite easy solution for it. Sensorless - no issue for me. I run it on my scorpion fs, on road / off road. LITTLE movement is enough to engage motor. Anyway who wants to start a bike on a motor alone? The only real problem is starting on very steepy hill. But how many times you will have a situation like that? If many times, then the sensorless is not for you.
Yes i did criticize this motor and crystalyte for many things around this new motor on this forum, but now i have been actually using it and the results are very positive for someone looking for a low power motor up to 2000W / 40-50kmh.

what controller do you run on? nd whats your top speed like?

 

[wojtek]

crystalyte 48v45a / zippy 44v25ah 20c
tyres: schwalbe marathon front / odyssey dirt path rear so not really least rolling resistance tires ever produced! + it is a full suspension trike.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29748

top speed - i will go check now but i assume around 45kmh - will confirm in 1-2h ok?
just need to install the GPS as the f**** xlyte released the sensorless controller that does not quite work with CA but their own solution is not ready yet!!!

 

[rui_fujino]

thats cool ride u've got there
I hope the result are goin to be good! I thought their APM-Display has speedometer??

 

[The Mighty Volt]

i understand your point. But as someone said correctly HS/HT are great motors to be run at under 2000W. More than that might be too much for it.
Re the cable thing - yes it sucks! But there is quite easy solution for it. Sensorless - no issue for me. I run it on my scorpion fs, on road / off road. LITTLE movement is enough to engage motor. Anyway who wants to start a bike on a motor alone? The only real problem is starting on very steepy hill. But how many times you will have a situation like that? If many times, then the sensorless is not for you.
Yes i did criticize this motor and crystalyte for many things around this new motor on this forum, but now i have been actually using it and the results are very positive for someone looking for a low power motor up to 2000W / 40-50kmh.

Hi Wojtek, I agree with you....but isn't this what 9C was created for?? The other thing about the 9C is that it has been out for longer and seems to have a greater variety of windings. I spoke to IceCube578 last night {much kudos to him} and he mentioned that there was some sort of choice in that department with the HT/HS. However, I still feel the 9C has the track-record. We have a ton of practical data on them. Now maybe when all the teething issues are knocked out of the new HT/HS range, they will be better, but the 9C offers that sort of performance right now and with far fewer of the performance issues. I'm not saying I would never buy one, but....not right now.

 

[icecube57]

HS and HT are only two flavors that ken carries but a vendor in Cali has like 6 or more flavors to simulate different stator width and windings.

 

[wojtek]

OK i tested the top speed using my GPS
39-42kmh at 46.5v depending on how flat the road was...
44-45kmh at over 49v
but i dont trust GPS - would like to verify on normal bike computer.

tomorrow videos of starting uphill at 23% the webcam batteries are charging as we speak

crystalyte 48v45a / zippy 44v25ah 20c
tyres: schwalbe marathon front / odyssey dirt path rear so not really least rolling resistance! + it is a full suspension trike.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29748

top speed - i will go check now but i assume around 45kmh - will confirm in 1-2h ok?
just need to install the GPS as the f**** xlyte released the sensorless controller that does not quite work with CA but their own solution is not ready yet!!!