new eZip motor

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latecurtis said:
I usually have a bad head ache after soldering.
You're not supposed to inhale the fumes. Glad the air purifier helped but lacking that, you could use a small personal fan, directed to pull the fumes away from your mouth/nose. Try to be safe.
 
Yeah either have the fan suck the soldering smoke away or have the fan blow it away. Hopefully LC was using Lead-Free solder which is more expensive. What I've done in the past is use a small computer case fan 12V, hooked up to a battery, heck even used 9V square battery, spare 2S or 3S 18650 lithium ions.


99t4 said:
latecurtis said:
I usually have a bad head ache after soldering.
You're not supposed to inhale the fumes. Glad the air purifier helped but lacking that, you could use a small personal fan, directed to pull the fumes away from your mouth/nose. Try to be safe.
 
Too loud! Sounds like the chain is too tight, as I here a click click a lot. like the chain is hitting a spot or more on the sprockets, or a few master links.

Sensorless controllers are pretty common now. Had/have one back in 07 still have it. It does work on a geared hub but not as well as a DD. I felt a lose in top speed or power. I would think they are better now than years ago. They are good to have as a spare or using when you loose a hall or a connection.

Sunder is the one that sent you the HUB motor. All I sent was batteries and charger. A few odds and ends too.

Dan

The chain is too tight. I thought so but wanted someone to verify that. I can give it just a little slack. Not much though. Then will do another test run in the same parking lot. It is huge and behind Wall-Mart.

I would love to know how a sensor less controller works. I am very curious. That means that only the 3 motor wires are needed and can unhook the sensor wires. I fixed the 26" hub motor and got it running and also have the 20" - 800 watt DD Turbo bike which is. If any of my sensor wires were to get damaged somehow I could run either DD with a 1,000 watt sensor less controller.

Have not heard from SUNDER lately. I hope he is ok.


I just noticed a major difference in my 2 - dual suspension mountain bikes. The one I was going to put an old brush motor on and pass it to Mike. he is the son of the woman i have been with for 23 years. Mary. Her son John got a Clear Creek Schwinn with an 800 watt brush motor on the back.

IMG_0461.jpg

That bike's back frame is perfect for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. The other frame , I was going to put the 1,000W hub motor I just fixed on. Instead I will put it on the back of the HaroV3. That dual suspension has the BMX handle bars. I can do that famous trick of mine and mount the 1,000W - 48V brush motor for 24V - 500W decent gearing.

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I doubt that I will be ordering much more this month as I spent way too much money. The only thing I might order is the 36V - 1,000W brush motor as I have a lot of 36V packs so anything I put it on is a 30 mph bike. At 44V LiPo probably 35 mph.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
At its loosest point, the chain should still have about 1/2 inch of movement when pushed lightly perpendicular to its span.

Too tight a chain is destructive to the chain, sprockets, bearings, and shafts involved.
 
At its loosest point, the chain should still have about 1/2 inch of movement when pushed lightly perpendicular to its span.

Too tight a chain is destructive to the chain, sprockets, bearings, and shafts involved.

OK.

I am not sure where loosest point is. I can shoot a video tomorrow of the chain after I give it just a little slack and you can let me know if it is right, I would appreciate the help.

Thanks

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
I am not sure where loosest point is. I can shoot a video tomorrow of the chain after I give it just a little slack and you can let me know if it is right, I would appreciate the help.
Normally that's going to be near the midpoint between the cogs, on the slack side.
 
I just noticed a major difference in my 2 - dual suspension mountain bikes. The one I was going to put an old brush motor on and pass it to Mike. he is the son of the woman i have been with for 23 years. Mary. Her son John got a Clear Creek Schwinn with an 800 watt brush motor on the back.

Then again maybe not. I already gave Mike a Schwinn Ranger. It is about equal to the Clear Creek Schwinn I built for his brother. He can look at his brothers Schwinn and do the same thing I did on his Schwinn Ranger. I will give him both of those motors. They both run and can tell him what sprocket to use for each. I will give him the 24" wheel with the 60T spoke sprocket already on it. It will work fine for 24V and 19 mph.

IMG_0464.jpg

He is mechanically inclined. He works on cars. If he don't want to put any effort at all into it then he should get a job and order a hub motor I guess. Not everyone is interested in working on e bikes. It will be easy for me to just have the rim on the 1,000 watt hub motor fixed and throw it on the back of the 26" dual suspension as it don't need any work so am keeping it.

I will bring up the 20" bike with the brushless motor as want to hook up a speedo. I will shoot a video of the chain before and after I give it a little slack. I want to do a test run on it after that with a speedo. I have to adjust the seat so I am not sliding forwards. It also needs longer power wires to hook up the batteries. They came unhooked when I hit a bump.

12/24/2020 - 11:26 PM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSe-5O_CKQ8&feature=youtu.be

I did not record the part in between as when I spun the wheel it was too loose. I really can't do any better than that. It looks like a half an inch to me. I will measure it.

IMG_0468.jpgIMG_0469.jpg

At its loosest point, the chain should still have about 1/2 inch of movement when pushed lightly perpendicular to its span.

It looks like half an inch to me. I am going with that. We will see how it runs if I can find my camera. It is currently MIA.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Is the slack moveable? Like can you adjust the tension by moving the motor back or forward? If you can then try giving it more slack and seeing what the sound is like. If you can't move the motor to adjust tension then you should make it so you can.
 
The wheel moves back and forth. It is not possible to move the motor in that particular mount. Did you watch the video?

I was told 1/2" around center chain. I tried it looser before taking the video and had no luck. Basically if I want the chain to stay on it has to be as tight as it is now but not as tight as it was before. It was too tight. There is just a little difference.

I lost my camera and cant shoot another video in that parking lot unless I find it. I can't spend any more money until the first of the year. I will go to the bike shop one time to get the brake hooked up on the back of the Giant Roam and see if they can fix the high spot on the 26" hub motor I re wired, Other than that I have to stop spending money for awhile.

I want to finish the 26" dual suspension with the 26" hub motor and may have to help Mike put the Unite chain drive on the Schwinn Ranger. He has no money or job so will probably have to buy 1 more 7.5 Ah SLA so Mike can have 24V and John will give Mike the other battery and he will have 24V. Both their bikes will be geared about 20 mph at 500 watts.

I need to do some solder work on the two 24V controllers and test them both with the Unite motor at 24V so the e bike workshop will be active probably up to Christmas. I would like to order a 1,000W 36V Unite motor for Christmas though but the 3 kilowatt brushless motor will have to wait for the second stimulus check but might order a Cro-motor instead.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Maybe the sprocket on the motor is not aligned with the gears that the motor is not level.

looks ok to me. I think it will work better now since there is a little slack. I need to find my camera and take a ride. The master link is a little wider than it should be. Usually a master link has the link , two chain links and the clip. It goes thru the first link , then the second and then the clip,

However there was a lot of movement back and forth so had to add two links. one extra on each side to reduce that movement. That could be the noise that is heard. Only a motorcycle shop has that chain or would need to order another master link or two, I would rather just run it the way it is. That movement is why it failed and popped off when installed on the Clear Creek before I switched to the #25 chain and 80T sprocket.

I got rid of the other black dual suspension I was going to put the 3 kilowatt motor on the back of. I gave it to Mike as that Schwinn Ranger is a pedal bike only. The rear is way too narrow for a #40 sprocket and chain.

I don't need any new projects for awhile that will end up costing 2 or 3 hundred bucks to do. Only low budget where I can get the motor and controller for less than 100 bucks and chain and sprockets less than 50 bucks. NO expensive custom sprockets.

I was wondering about these motors. My question is what motor sprocket would fit on it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/C6374-high-efficience-brushless-motor-170KV-for-electric-skateboard-longboard-US/124001141812?hash=item1cdf0b4434:g:mXcAAOSwLrdbh16-

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170KV * 24V = 4,080 rpm.

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It is basically a 4 horsepower motor at 25 or 26V as is rated 2,900W @ 24V. For less than 50 bucks. Not sure how much the controller is. I Have to check.

I have been looking at these RC brushless motors for awhile now. They are cheap and would love to build an e bike with one and for the price and 170KV @ 24V is a great choice for a low budget build.

Please let me know.



Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
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It looks like half an inch to me. I am going with that.
Looks good. :thumb: For the drive chain, a little too loose is better than a little too tight.

Are those painted bricks between the motor and frame? Seems like that would be excessively heavy?
 
Are those painted bricks between the motor and frame? Seems like that would be excessively heavy?

No. It is wood. Brick and steel is difficult to drill thru. It is 2 by 4. I think pressure treated. It was an old piece I found on the ground and dried out. It was solid but had a little ground in dirt so looks a little like brick.

I use wood a lot for mounting motors to the frame behind the seat. I did that with the Currie build and a 750 watt gear reduction motor. The chain still feels a little tight but passed the 1/2 inch test midway between the sprockets. I think too tight is better as if the chain falls off at 30 mph it could cause serious injury.

Back to that 42 buck brushless RC motor. It is a simple question. Does anyone know where I can get a motor sprocket that will fit on that shaft. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
99t4 said:
Are those painted bricks between the motor and frame? Seems like that would be excessively heavy?

Now look what you've done. You made me want to build a bike frame out of bricks.
 
Now look what you've done. You made me want to build a bike frame out of bricks.

Yea. If you do , imaging hauling it up three flights of stairs and a narrow hallway. :lol:

Any luck on that motor sprocket. I am not 100% sure but with all the types of low KV RC motors out there these days at very low prices Horsepower to cost ratio I see a possible way to turn a profit buying low cost Wall-Mart bikes brand new and making minimal modifications to install these brushless motors , controller and batteries to turn a modest profit.

I would be willing to build them for 50 to 100 buck profit if I can average 10 bucks an hour which is way below minimum wage. If it works maybe 20 bucks an hour building it at the most to sell them quick.

Please let me know as I want to order that which will be my prototype.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Chalo said:
99t4 said:
Are those painted bricks between the motor and frame? Seems like that would be excessively heavy?

Now look what you've done. You made me want to build a bike frame out of bricks.

Hey Chalo, now latecurtis is peering down the petticoats of RC motors to power his contraptions.

[Below] I don't know what kind of sprockets rc motor ebike guys use, but there is reduction if you cant get the kv low enough. The power hogs use Astro, but burn out ESC's easily. Not sure what ESC you'd use on that as I never got into RC motors for ebikes. I'd guess they'd have 6S 50A would be common but you'd have to look at Hobbyking.com to see. 6S 75A would be available, I dont know what the price jumps would be. Then there how and what do you do for a throttle. Maybe have one hand on the handlebars and one hand on the transmitter.
Have fun - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCttlrkLRNc
I was wondering about these motors. My question is what motor sprocket would fit on it.
 
Then there how and what do you do for a throttle. Maybe have one hand on the handlebars and one hand on the transmitter.

Yea. I did not know that. If I can not control the motor properly that would be a deal breaker.

ust put your biggest DC brush motor on the rear of some bike, parallel all your 36V batteries into 2 equal batteries, run the 2 batteries in series for 72V, rig power from battery to motor through your 60A breaker.

Ready?
Long level straightaway, speedometer, camera, life insurance ...
Pedal up to best speed, hold on and engage breaker.
Should be good for at least 1 40mph run!

Well I guess I won't be able to sell them and make a profit bur what DA wrote there gives me an idea. If I were to run a cheap 250 or 500 watt hub motor on the front or even a 250 - 500 watt chain drive on the front I could run it up to 15 or 20 mph and when I want to go really fast use that thing in the video for a rear RC motor but starting out with that switch may not work well, I never used one as never had an RC motor for anything.

If anyone has ever ran an RC motor for anything how does that thing work at low speed or take off.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
There is a way to get a normal ebike throttle on an ESC, there are more ways to make your own throttle of some kind. Servo's can work, https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-760lv-hv-dual-pulse-width-selectable-servo-tester.html?___store=en_us

Servo and rc motor sounds twofer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv1apQ48OVw

RC motors on ebikes are loud.

Alienpower Systems has some quality stuff but to rich for your blood.
https://alienpowersystem.com/product-category/brushless-motors/
 
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I ordered that for now. The sprocket was 36 bucks from electric scooter parts.

I I am waiting on my 12V heaters for the dash and the other 22Ah SLA as it has been really cold. When I get those I can have heat in the van and am taking the 1,000W 26" hub motor I rewired to get the high spot in the rim fixed and will have the dual suspension back on the road again.


I ordered more 4mm bullets just in case.



Thanks.

LC, out.
 
fighting with the seller about shipping.

I hate sellers who only ship FED X or UPS.

I only like USPS and have a PO. box.

I might not get the 36V - 1,000 watt motor.

I don't want my stuff stolen ship here. I sleep all day and wont hear them come. Ilooked into it and there is a FED X at Wallgreens where i get my BP pills. I called there and can track it there and pick it up. I sent the address to the seller and am waiting.



Thanks.

LC. out.
 
You will hate Luna Cycle then because they ship by, you guessed it Fed Ex. They might use someone else for domestic shipping within America but into Canada its Fex Ex and I pay an extra $44 for that pleasure.

latecurtis said:
fighting with the seller about shipping.

I hate sellers who only ship FED X or UPS.

I only like USPS and have a PO. box.

I might not get the 36V - 1,000 watt motor.

I don't want my stuff stolen ship here. I sleep all day and wont hear them come. Ilooked into it and there is a FED X at Wallgreens where i get my BP pills. I called there and can track it there and pick it up. I sent the address to the seller and am waiting.



Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New e Zip motor. 750 + 750 = 2 horses.

IMG_0474.jpgIMG_0476.jpg

A super reliable perfect heavy hauler and hill climber.

The 26" Dual suspension with the 1,000W front hub motor Sunder sent on the back and a 750 watt gear reduction motor on the front. At 36V though the hub motor is only 750 watt or 1 horse. + 1 horse on the front = 2 horses.

But what about the new e Zip motor ?

The 36V - 1,000 watt motor as I will get it shipped to Wall Greens about a mile away. The seller did not return my message and am willing to bet is because business hours are over. I do not see why they wont ship to Wall Greens if Wall Greens is willing to let me pick it up there. If not a different pick up location is ok as I got a van and my heaters should be in tomorrow, It has been really cold lately.

The Currie e Zips new motor will be the 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm Unite motor with the 89T - #25 sprocket. A 250W upgrade from the second e zip motor. It originally came with the 450 watt gear reduction motor. It was 24V and after a 36V upgrade burned it out up a hill and installed a 48V - 1,000W Unite MY1020 motor which was 750W and 2,250 rpm @ 36V. I ran it almost two years before taking that off and about two years after that it got the 750W gear reduction motor.

My post above shows 28 mph gearing on a 26" wheel @ 36V and 35 mph @ 45V. with that 36V - 1,000W - 3,000 rpm Unite motor I ordered- If the old 44 packs can't do the trick for 35 mph I will be looking at a large 20 Ah - new - 13P Lithium ion pack so the Currie will see 35 mph next year. You guys are right. I really don't need to go 40+ mph. At 53V it might even go 36 mph. That is close enough.

I looked at the 26" dual suspension a few hours ago and thought , I hate to get rid of the pedal chain as it is a way home if the motor fails with out pushing. In other words if one horse dies I can walk so no pedal chain is like having a bum leg riding one horse.( supposed to have knee replacement surgery 6 years ago) :lol: But two horses is a different story. They share the load and if one needs time out 20 miles from home the other will get me back. Also hills will be a piece a cake with two horses.

IMG_0477.jpgIMG_0478.jpg

Check out the rear rack that will be re enforced with steel for heavy cargo. The chain drive and battery rack will even the weight distribution with the battery frame rack and will have dual cargo baskets also back and front. Gearing for the 1,000W hub motor at 48V I think is 28 mph. It should run about 23 or 24 mph @ 36V so will be gearing the 750W gear reduction motor the same so 1,500W total power output for around 24 mph. What a beast. :lol:

DA. You appreciate e zip bikes and are a stickler for proper gearing. If I manage to pull this off I would like to hear from you. It might even deserve a graph for power up hills. I will supply a video with a speedo, That would be a Christmas present with one of your graphs. like cream cheese frosting on a fresh warm home made spice cake. :lol:

It will be my main ride and will keep it in the van. I will install the 1,700 lumen light with its own 12V power pack for night riding. :mrgreen:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
That laced hub motor leaning up against the wall looks wide, almost like a 45-50H width, could just be that angle that the picture was taken.


And please, I beg of you do not wear a speedo, just wear some baggy cargo shorts or something. :lol:
I will supply a video with a speedo
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Batteries.

I will be building a 12P - 3S pack with these 18650 cells most are over 4.0V. I will be hooking them up to a 3S BMS after I solder wires to each and parallel them all up.

It is basically practice. I am thinking about ordering a lot of 200 cells after that for a huge 15P - 13S pack for a 2,600W - 30 + Ah pack.

As for the old LiPo packs I decided NOT to store them out in the van. They have been stored in two different storage units and two apartments in the last 3 years and NOT run. There have been a lot of temperature changes.

I do not feel comfortable having them in my apartment either so put them in the area off the bathroom where there are water pipes. Note the fiberglass insulation under the metal cash box. If they were to burn the metal could melt thru the plastic tote so put insulation under it. They are also in a LiPo bag inside the cash box.

Note the hole in the lid. It serves to allow smoke out slowly if a fire occurs and is large enough to fit two bullets in. I forgot to order 6S balance extensions. I will need to extend a balance cable about 4 feet and will eventually balance charge out in the van.

When I run them it must be behind me on a rear rack so I do not inhale smoke if it does catch on fire. That leaves me with two questions.

1) Do they make a small on board fire extinguisher for a motor cycle or scooter / e bike. ?????????

2.( What is an easy simple way to test the capacity of the 12V Lithium ion packs after I parallel them up. ????????

I would like to test the 3S - 6P pack that is together as well as each bank of the 3S - 12P - pack before I build it so I can see if possible to run them in series with the pack already built for 24V.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
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