By the way, the batteries I'm using are four B&B BP12-12s with maybe 200 miles on them (~30 recharges) and two B&B EB12-12s which of course are barely used.
If you bridge the shunt, the motor current might be higher than the FET rating during acceleration (translation: boom). Be careful.
At lower voltages, you can use more current.
I bought a DPDT switch that says it's rated for "20 amps at 125 VAC". Is the switch actually specific to AC or does it work just as well with DC? I would assume so.
Also, are the two non-corner plugs the 'common' ones?
Usually they are. If in doubt, use an ohmmeter to test.
For your application, AC or DC won't matter much. At higher votages, DC will tend to draw an arc across the contacts when you open the switch under load. If the arc is sustained, it will melt the contacts.
If you aren't switching under load, the amp rating will be higher.
There may be a tendency for the contacts to fry if you're switching batteries with the controller connected, since the main capacitors will be charging or discharging. Some switches are OK with this.