Nine Continent 48v 45A controller

[Kurt]

I had been running a crystallite 48A digital 12 fet controller for the past year or two but got some water in there not long ago and fried some fets. I just replaced the crystallite controller this week with a little Nine Continent 48v 45A unit. It s about 1/2 the price and size of the crystallite but will do for a fill in while i repair the old unit. Perhaps my wife can use it later on when i build her a new bike.

Anyhow the controller looks well made and much more water resistant than my old controller. There are a few things I have picked up on that are not as good.

*The controller gets quite warm after a aggressive ride with lots of hills. Its not hot but quite warm and the old controller was cold no matter what I threw at it. Don't think its a issue but just something I picked up on.

* The other issue is more of a serious problem. The controller has a cruse control feature were if you hold the throttle in one position for more that 10 sec it will lock on at that speed until you move the throttle again. At first it sounded like a great feature but soon proved to be kind of dangerous.To put it into perspective imagine if your cars cruse control worked like this and was on all the time. I almost had a accident first ride out at a intersection with my 3yo daughter on the back of the bike .As your just not expecting the bike to be pumping 1800w into your rear wheel when you let off the throttle and by the time you realise your on cuse at full tilt and twist the throttle again to rest it and then the brake its almost to late.

I wish I could have a switch to turn this feature off or if not disable it all together any ideas on how this cruse control feature works or how to modify it would be great?

On a positive note. The amp limiting of this controller is spot on. load testing it shows it holds a steady 45A max. My old controller was rated at 48A but I would see all kinds of spikes and often over 55A.

Kurt.

 

[MadRhino]

Yep, I also find that this auto-cruise feature is dangerous. I guess it is meant to be used only with E-brakes, so it's cut off when you touch the brakes, and there should be a serious warning printed on it.

Then, you don't tell which motor that you have. If it's a fast wind Clyte, another potential problem with this controller is that it would become very hot riding uphill. The Clyte 18fet controller is better by very far, and a Lyen's 18fet programmable controller is even a bigger step up.

 

[Kurt]

I am running a 5304 motor off this controller. We do have some very steep hills around my area but none that last for more than a few 100m so I think it will be ok. Like i said its not getting toasty hot just quite warm when you give it a work out. Just wish I could disable that cruse control. Its like driving a car with a sticky throttle cable .

Kurt

 

[Cheeseboy]

Don't want to drag up a dead topic, but I thought I'd ask whether a solution had been found to the problem of disabling the cruise control?

I ask because today, the cruise control caused me to have a rather scary crash, leaving me requiring stitches in my hand.

I was going up a long hill with full throttle, as was required due to the cars behind me, and upon reaching the top there was traffic stopped at an intersection. I released the throttle and braked, but the cruise control had kicked in, and my brakes were trying to brake against the 2000+ watts I am running my HS3540 at, added to the fact that the rim was wet and I had a recipe for disaster. knowing I can't stop before I reach the cars in front of me, I turn the throttle on and off again to cancel the cruise control, and veer towards the sidewalk, I wasn't able to mount the kerb at the right angle and as a result the bike crashed and I was flung into a fence where I slashed my hand open.

I believe I made the right choice in getting off the road when I knew I would hit the cars in front of me.

So yes, anyone figured out how to disable this malicious cruise control?

 

[wesnewell]

If your controller is anything like the one I have (EB21X-something on the circuit board) cruise is enabled by shorting the CR pad to ground.

 

[bobale]

There must be CR pad on controller PCB which is currently jumped to the ground. I have no idea how could they enable cruise control by default, that's madness . Anyway, you should put a wire on CR and GND, and connect them to a switch mounted somwhere appropriately on your handlebar to enable CR when you really need it.

I still think it's useful functions, but by no means it should be enabled at all times.

 

[SamTexas]

* The other issue is more of a serious problem. The controller has a cruse control feature were if you hold the throttle in one position for more that 10 sec it will lock on at that speed until you move the throttle again.

My Infineon 36V/48V 35A behaves exactly the same way. I too would like to disable it but only if I can still engage cruise control some other way.

 

[wesnewell]

If you hook up ebrakes, that disengages it when you pull either brake handle. It also engages regen braking if you have that enabled. I don't have a problem at all with it. Just release the throttle and tap it again if I don't want to use the brakes. I can see where you would want to disable it if you don't have ebrakes hooked up and a simple toggle switch could do that.

 

[bobale]

I too would like to disable it but only if I can still engage cruise control some other way.

I just said how in my post above. You only need cruise control ocasionally if you're city commuter, so it makes sense to hook up wires to CR and GND and put a simple switch on handlebar, so cruise control can be activated only when you need it (rarely), and be safely off when you don't (most of the time).

 

[Cheeseboy]

Thanks for the info

I hooked up an e-brake on my rear wheel, and rode to a completely deserted stretch of uphill, to test something.

I don't know how the e-brakes work exactly, but I assume they just cut-out the throttle's signal, giving the controller no throttle input. Since the cruise control keeps the motor on when the throttle input is zero, I was worried that the e-brakes would not cut out the motor, and even worse, not allow the cruise control to be reset when you twist the throttle with the e-brake activated.

I discovered that, while this wasn't true, there was still an issue.

The motor stops whilst the e-brake is activated, but once it is released, the motor starts again at the cruise control speed, and continues running until the throttle is turned, and the cruise control disabled.

My scientific method was by no means perfect, but when I release the brakes, I should not start accelerating again going up a hill :lol: So I'm pretty sure my inferences are right.

I have removed the controller, and am just about to (hopefully) get rid of this cruise control once and for all.

Thanks for the tips guys

 

[wesnewell]

Don't know what you did, but once CR is disengaged, it stays disengaged until you set it again. At least that's how it works on my controller. Noticing you have a twist throttle, once the release the ebrake, the throttle is again active and if you haven't released the throttle back off, then the bike will probably react to the throttle setting at that time.

 

[aurum]

I have Lyen's Cruise control handlebar switch on a Lyen 12 fet controller. It works great when I hit the cruise button it lights up with a cruise light and I can let off the throttle. It shuts off immediately when I hit either brake and then activates the regen function. This feature is great for my 10 mile commute since my right thumb got sore at the end of the ride in the past. I would only use the cruise feature if the bike was configured in exactly this way.

 

[Speedracer]

Hey guys, I just got the 9c kit which came with ebrake handles but I have hydraulic brakes and this only works with cable. So I'm wondering if you guys have figured out a way of disabling the cruise? I'm thinking if I hook up a switch or wire in a loop to one of those connections will that work?
I'm worried if I loop it in if it will throttle at all or will it automatically activate the regen when the throttle is off? I'm not so sure it has regen? If not it's easy with a loop back.
Cheers

 

[wesnewell]

To totally disable cruise control on EB controllers, you must remove jumper between pad CR and ground. This may be a set of wires coming out of controller or it may be jumpered inside controller. I put mine on a toggle switch mounted on end of controller. If you just want a way to simulate the ebrake switch then a make/break button can do that. You could also use a reed relay to cause a closed circuit when you apply your brakes, but it may have a problem with accuracy going uphill. Any throttle movement will also disengage CC.

 

[Speedracer]

Hey thanks for that. So with a switch or hard wired loop on the cruise wires. Won't the controller think that the brake is always engaged and stop the throttle working altogether?
Or is it not that smart?

 

[wesnewell]

The CC wiring has nothing to do with the ebrake wiring. Shorting the ebrake wires will disengage everything (including throttle) and engage regen braking if you have it enabled. Shorting the CC wiring does nothing but enable the use of CC. It is engaged by holding the throttle at the same position for 6 seconds on EB type controllers. I'm assuming you have this type controller. If not, disregard everything I've written. I use a different type fwiw.

 

[Speedracer]

Hey guys can you help with figuring out which wire is which?

1 battery
2 on/off switch
3 ebrake switches
4 ?
5 motor
6 throttle
7 motor 2nd connection
8 single wire ?
9 single wire ?

Thanks guys