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No throttle response

anthony222

New here
Joined
Oct 17, 2025
Messages
24
Location
Santa rosa ca
I bought a vevor 3000w "kit" from someone on marketplace and had to rewire the screen and the throttle since a dog got to it.The screen in working talking to the controller but was getting a e20h throttle input problem so I connected another 3wire throttle same 5v seems th be going from around 1v to over 4v when twisted but nothing happens. Any suggestions. Also its a 48v to 72v 3 mode sinwave controller and a vevor 72v 3000w motor. I only have 48v sla batterys 50v shown 49v when smart learn is going and spinning the motor would that some how be starving the controller and not able to keep up the 5v for the controller. Could it be wired wrong or need a different controller. Ignore the60h error i wired tx to tx and rx to rx at first im new don't kill me
 

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Also nothing else is connected besides screen with jumper for lock a 3wire throttle the hall sensor and the 3 phase wires and battery. No breaks lights pas or anything else. Also did self learn a ton of times. Two times the motor started to slowly turn when I had the trottle power and ground connected and was testing the voltage. Could it be a bad controller or user error
 
A 72v system probably has an LVC (lowest voltage the controller will allow motor to operate at) of the lowest voltage a 72v battery would be at. 20s x 3v is around 60v, LVC could be higher than that.

48v battery is around 54v full. (13s x 4.2v)
It's a 48v to 72v controller. I tried a 350w motor and also no response from the throttle.it has no error codes. Im going to redo the throttle wire and make sure the 5v is not dipping and make sure the hall sensor is working again incase I was tired and didnt notice anything
 
It's a 48v to 72v controller.

Multi-voltage controllers sometimes use an autodetect to figure out what voltage they are running on. This does not always work correclty, leaving it with the wrong LVC and HVC. Sometimes it is not fully automatic, and requires a specific sequence of events to initiate the detection.

Or they may have used solderable jumper wires inside, or zerohm resistors.

It might even be in a display setup menu item (this might be a simple parameter letter / number, and not have any visual relevance to what it is for; that is unfortunately very common).

To find out if any of these is the case, or something else entirely, you will have to check the manual for that controller, if it has one findable online / etc., or open it up to check for jumpers.
 
When I scan the qr on the controller it says keep the tire off the ground run autolearn for 8 seconds. If spinning the wrong way unplug and plug back in. Also have the lock wire jumped otherwise the screen dosent work. The screen is set to throttle only and no other options I can find other than pas on off and its level.
 
Autolearn is usually just for the motor hall/phase combination and spin direction. It doesn't usually do the voltage detection. Would be nice if it does, though. ;)

The lock wire just provides battery power to the controllers LVPS that creates 5v, 12v, etc to power the MCU, gate drivers, etc.

FWIW, most controllers with a display use the display itself to turn the cotnroller on, to connect it's lock wire to B+. If yours isn't doing that, perhaps osmething is wrong with the display that is also preventing it from enabling the controller via whatever data lines it has. (miswire, failed electronics, etc).

If the data lines are miswired, or failed such that they are not sending data to the controller (or the ocntroller isn't receiving the data that is being sent), the controlelr may not do anything because it may be waiting for you to choose a level other than PAS zero (which usually is "disabled motor", a safety feature to prevent accidental motor operation when the sytem is first powered on). Even if PAS is disabled, the controller may still have to be switched out of PAS zero to operate.
 
Autolearn is usually just for the motor hall/phase combination and spin direction. It doesn't usually do the voltage detection. Would be nice if it does, though. ;)

The lock wire just provides battery power to the controllers LVPS that creates 5v, 12v, etc to power the MCU, gate drivers, etc.

FWIW, most controllers with a display use the display itself to turn the cotnroller on, to connect it's lock wire to B+. If yours isn't doing that, perhaps osmething is wrong with the display that is also preventing it from enabling the controller via whatever data lines it has. (miswire, failed electronics, etc).

If the data lines are miswired, or failed such that they are not sending data to the controller (or the ocntroller isn't receiving the data that is being sent), the controlelr may not do anything because it may be waiting for you to choose a level other than PAS zero (which usually is "disabled motor", a safety feature to prevent accidental motor operation when the sytem is first powered on). Even if PAS is disabled, the controller may still have to be switched out of PAS zero to operate.
The display turns on since the lock wire is connected. The lcd turns on the controller otherwise i loose the 5 v to the throttle.i turned pas off on the screen and its throttle only assist level 0 the screen reads 49 to 50v. Also no wires to the pas. If I disconnect anything I get the error hall sensor for the hall sensor abnormal throttle when I unplug the throttle. Im guessing I might have broke the hall sensor on the throttle and its just idle not adjusting voltage. Also should I have voltage from the controllers signal to the throttle? I would guess no and only to the controller. I might of checked by checking positive and signal it was like 4am
 
The display turns on since the lock wire is connected.

FWIW, that's backwards of how every other controller I've seen or used works.

Yours could be different, but normally you have say, 5 wires between controller and display. The ones from controller to display are marked as FCD below, and the ones from display to controller as FDC, as viewed at the controller end of the cable.

B+ battery positive FCD
GND (B-) FCD
Lock (ignition, keyswitch, KSI, etc, carries B+ when display is on) FDC
TX FCD RX
RX FDC TX



The lcd turns on the controller
While yours may be different, the lock wire to the controller getting B+ is what turns on the controller, in every other controller/display system I've seen or used.


otherwise i loose the 5 v to the throttle.i turned pas off on the screen and its throttle only assist level 0 the screen reads 49 to 50v. Also no wires to the pas. If I disconnect anything I get the error hall sensor for the hall sensor abnormal throttle when I unplug the throttle.
Well, disconnecting things wouldn't be one of my suggestions. ;)

Whether there is any PAS actually connected or not, switching the display from PAS zero, or whatever default-power-on assist level it has, to any other level, is usually required to make the system operate for PAS *or* throttle, for systems that have this safety mode (it's fairly common).



Im guessing I might have broke the hall sensor on the throttle and its just idle not adjusting voltage.
You already indicated that it is working correctly, from 1v to 4v output range.



Also should I have voltage from the controllers signal to the throttle? I would guess no and only to the controller.
I don't know what that means; you'd need to be more specific.
 
Yeah my lock wire is the positive wire to the lcd so they don't work if not connected I never had another controller and don't know how others work this is my first one and thats what it said to do online if I want to use a screen otherwise I need to jump wire. If I dont turn on the screen I have no 5v power from the controller.i set up with pas assist 1 on when I set up like it said then turned off pas on the screen and set to throttle only. not pas or both. I disconnected to see if it throws a code or stayed the same. It throws a code so I know its communicating normally or I would assume. It was changing voltage with another throttle but maby had a bad connection I missed idk
 
Also should I have voltage from the controllers signal to the throttle? I would guess no and only to the controller
Your guess is correct.

Back probe your throttle connector on the controller side with system powered up. Black test probe to Black wire, Red test probe to Green wire.
Still have 1 to 4vdc with throttle actuation?

Yes. Tried all the stock settings nothing the changed settings to throttle only after I tried assist 1 2 3 off
Thanks for trying.
 
Your guess is correct.

Back probe your throttle connector on the controller side with system powered up. Black test probe to Black wire, Red test probe to Green wire.
Still have 1 to 4vdc with throttle actuation?


Thanks for trying.
Ill setup and start checking in a few im finishing making dinner for my kids. Also i could just be bad at soldering so going to rewire the connector again. It was a 5wire throttle plug when I got it but 3wire and 2 wire lock on controller.
 
Ill setup and start checking in a few im finishing making dinner for my kids. Also i could just be bad at soldering so going to rewire the connector again. It was a 5wire throttle plug when I got it but 3wire and 2 wire lock on controller.
On the 2 throttles One hall sensor has no signal voltage, one throttle had a signal voltage of 1.9 to about 4.so i took it apart tested with a magnet and seemed to work 0-6 ish mph
 
Many displays can power up w/o a display and run on throttle and a default PAS. | Maybe you had a buggy display that keeps the controller in PAS 0 where throttle is usually turned off. Try it without the display attached on TxD and Rxd.

How did the learning process work? You connect the two wires on power up, and the wheel starts to spin? Keeps spinning til you you disconnected the wires and power down?

If your display has a walk mode, invoke that and see if wheel turns.
 
Many displays can power up w/o a display and run on throttle and a default PAS. | Maybe you had a buggy display that keeps the controller in PAS 0 where throttle is usually turned off. Try it without the display attached on TxD and Rxd.

How did the learning process work? You connect the two wires on power up, and the wheel starts to spin? Keeps spinning til you you disconnected the wires and power down?

If your display has a walk mode, invoke that and see if wheel turns.
I tried before with a jumper to run no screen per instructions but made no difference. It spins slows down and waits for me to unplug. I just took apart my 2 throttles one had no signal voltage but wires had continuity the other had to high voltage took apart and used a magnet and it ran only to about 6mph but worked. It's a cheap throttle so I think it just was not in a good position with the magnet. Later after the kids go to bed im going to see if I can replace the hall sensor with the other throttle and go from there
 
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