Noob question thread

egtscs

100 µW
Joined
Dec 1, 2023
Messages
9
Location
Washington
Is there a place for noobs to ask more seasoned builders for advice on individual questions that don't require a dedicated thread?

I realize this being a dedicated thread itself is likely unnecessary, please forgive me while I familiarize myself with this forum.
 
If it's for a particular build or project, the best thing to do is start a thread in the builds section appropriate to the type of device, vehicle, bike, etc. Then you can provide necessary background, situation, etc., information, and then begin asking the questions.

If it is not for a build or project, but just assorted technical or general questions, I'd still do the same thing but place it in the appropriate technical or general forum.

If you like I can move this thread to the appropriate forum for that purpose and you can then edit the information and questions into your original post.
 
If it's for a particular build or project, the best thing to do is start a thread in the builds section appropriate to the type of device, vehicle, bike, etc. Then you can provide necessary background, situation, etc., information, and then begin asking the questions.
This was my backup plan, I had just wondered if there was a general questions thread that I could use for things that don't exactly feel like they belong in a build thread or need their own dedicated thread.

If you like I can move this thread to the appropriate forum
Are you able to move it to the dumpster instead so I can start over?
 
This was my backup plan, I had just wondered if there was a general questions thread that I could use for things that don't exactly feel like they belong in a build thread or need their own dedicated thread.


Are you able to move it to the dumpster instead so I can start over?
Ask your question or questions and see where it goes, then amberwolf will know what to do!
 
Well, if the questions don't apply to anything in particular, you might as well just start asking them here. ;)
 
Ask your question or questions and see where it goes, then amberwolf will know what to do!
Hey you're right, why not.

So I come from an electric skateboarding background and have a bit of experience with building VESC based boards. I'm trying to get a frame of reference for comparison to speeds and power that I've felt on my boards,
I'd like more power than my current daily electric skateboard which is about 3.5kw/motor (system is 48V and controller is set to 80A battery per motor)

It very much seems like any 4kw+ rated ebike motor like a QS273 would be capable of a substantial amount more power than I'd be used to from my board.

What would be a decent ebike motor to be more powerful than my board
Wheel torque: 24.1 nM
Wattage delivered to motors: 6.9kw
Battery voltage: 50.4v full charge (12S Li-ion)
Battery amps/motor: 80
Motor amps/motor: 100
 
About batteries, I have a basic understanding of how Li-ion and Lipo packs function, and the relationship between things like current, voltage, and capacity.

1: it seems BMS's in the ebike world are often wired for charge and discharge. I'm not familiar with how a discharge BMS functions and what is important to know on the user side.

2: I'm not used to 48v 60v 72v terminology, are there set boundaries for Max and minimum voltage to be considered 60v or 72v? Or is it more of a "closest applicable option" kinda thing?

3: it seems like 3X 6S 20AH Turnigy lipo packs wired up to an LLT BMS for discharge would be a good low cost, option for a decent amount of power and capacity, I've seen this done in esk8 but haven't seen it done here yet so I'm unsure if there are reasons for that to be avoided.
 
Is there a place for noobs to ask more seasoned builders for advice on individual questions that don't require a dedicated thread?

I realize this being a dedicated thread itself is likely unnecessary, please forgive me while I familiarize myself with this forum.

We like it when people ask questions in public so that others can learn from the answers.

Welcome to the forum!
 
1: it seems BMS's in the ebike world are often wired for charge and discharge. I'm not familiar with how a discharge BMS functions and what is important to know on the user side.
If your experience is with RC Lipo packs in various hobby craft/vehicles, then there is no BMS at all in those, for either charge or discharge. For these, "management" is done entirely within the charger, other than the ESC's (controller's) LVC and HVC, if it has these functions.

So an "ebike" BMS (battery management system) is a completely new thing vs those. The BMS is built into the battery, and (usualy) monitors each cell (group, if multiple paralleled cells), and if any cell (or other sensor) exceeds any parameter the BMS monitors, the BMS will shutdown either the input (Charge, C-) or the output (Discahrge, P-), or both. Otherwise these are always enabled, for the majority of BMSes.

Some BMS only have a single port (often called C-) that is both charge and discharge.

There are advantages and disadvangages to both kinds, I've posted a few times in various threads about these, regarding using them with regen, or paralleling multiple packs, etc., if you want the details I can probalby find a link if you don't see them in my posts (the last time was probably a few months back).

Some BMS also have a function to balance cells, some don't.

Some BMS have programmable limits for these, most don't.

Most BMS use passive balancing using resistors to drain high cells, some use active balancing using various forms of charge transfer to take high cells' energy and feed it to low cells.

Some have current or temperature (or other) monitoring and associated limits, many don't. (some may state they have a current limit, but this doesn't mean they monitor the current and shutdown if exceeded, they may simply fail if that limit is exceeded (FETs fail, usually shorted, stuck on, if the current they can handle is exceeded).

Some BMS use contactors (relays), most use FETs as switches (just as ESCs do).

The BMS LVC is intended as an emergency cutoff, not to be used as an everyday shutdown. Doing so is hard on the cells, since the BMS LVC is usualy at the lowest end of the available energy in the cell.

Instead, the controller LVC, which is usually set a bit higher, is intended as the everyday shutdown, and will disallow motor function if exceeded. If the pack recovers (was just voltage sag under load) then most controllers simply resume allowing motor operation, until voltage drops below LVC and stays there.
 
Last edited:
2: I'm not used to 48v 60v 72v terminology, are there set boundaries for Max and minimum voltage to be considered 60v or 72v? Or is it more of a "closest applicable option" kinda thing?

These are nominal voltages, based on number of series cells x nominal cell voltage of the specific cell used (usually 3.6-3.7v, for the most common lithium chemistries, which is what all the stuff below will refer to). Their full voltages (HVC) would be the cell full voltage x number of cells, empty (LVC)....

So a 13s pack will be 48v, 13 x 3.7=48.1.

A 14s would be 52v.

60v would be 60 / 3.7 = 16s.

Etc.
 
3: it seems like 3X 6S 20AH Turnigy lipo packs wired up to an LLT BMS for discharge would be a good low cost, option for a decent amount of power and capacity, I've seen this done in esk8 but haven't seen it done here yet so I'm unsure if there are reasons for that to be avoided.

3 x 6s, if used in series (you don't state series or parallel) would be 18s. That's an uncommon voltage, so you'd need to use a controller with a programmable LVC (and HVC if applicable for regen braking, etc). But it would work fine as long as the controller's LVC / HVC allow full use of the pack.

If hte controller LVC is too high you won't get to use the full pack capacity, and if hte HVC is too low you can't charge the pack fully or the controller won't operate. (if hte controller's parts can't handle the full charge then it could be damaged).

3 x 6s, if used in parallel, is still 6s, and not many ebike controllers support this, though there are some--probably most of the programmable ones could be set that low.
 
If your experience is with RC Lipo packs in various hobby craft/vehicles
Admittedly we generally prefer to use Li-ion in electric skateboarding so 3 out of the 4 packs I have experience using are Li-ion (no personal experience building, rather leave that to experts)
I have 2 batteries that came from pre built boards, 1 lipo battery (2 6s Turnigy batteries in series), and the battery I'm most familiar with how it works is my 12s7p molicel P42A battery.

then there is no BMS at all in those, for either charge or discharge.
I think I may not have communicated well enough, lipo packs do not come with any form of battery management system, correct. Many esk8 builders will wire up lipo batteries to a BMS (generally an LLT) like this: 41d9f08b0aa1f9427483e31de84dedf37ea450ea_2_1332x1000.jpeg
Obviously a fuse inline with the charge port is important but this hopefully illustrates what I'm describing well enough.

So a 13s pack will be 48v, 13 x 3.7=48.1.
I was under the impression 12s packs were generally also referred to as 48v, is that incorrect? I was under the impression it was more of a naming scheme with pretty much anything close enough to 48v nominal all being considered "48v" is this incorrect?
 
3 x 6s, if used in series (you don't state series or parallel) would be 18s. That's an uncommon voltage, so you'd need to use a controller with a programmable LVC (and HVC if applicable for regen braking, etc). But it would work fine as long as the controller's LVC / HVC allow full use of the pack.
Yes, the plan was 3 in series.
I wasn't aware 18S was uncommon for ebikes, good to know.
I have experience with VESC based ESCS which all allow configuration voltage cutoffs, I'd like to be able to use one if at all feasible.
Any ebike specific difficulties with VESC hardware/software that I should be aware of?
 
Technically a 12s is 44v, though they could be mislabelled as 48v. ;)

The reason it matters is that the controller LVC is set based on the series cell count, and if you buy a typical 48v ebike controller, it's almost certainly going to have a (non-user-alterable) 41-ish volt LVC. Using that with a 12s pack is going to leave a lot of capacity unusable.

EDIT: You can use a 36v controller with a 12s pack well enough; it's nearly certain to have parts that will survive the full voltage range. The only catch is if it has an HVC it won't let you fully charge the pack and still use it--you really couldn';t even half-charge it (42-43v should be the HVC if there is one). Or if you want to use regen braking, usually the regen limit is set some voltage below max pack voltage (so it doesn't overcharge the pack); sometimes this is all HVC is used for.

If the LVC/HVC in the controller is user-alterable (programmable, jumpers, etc) then you can use whatever series cell count you like that it supports...but the common ones don't usually include 12s. You can commonly find controllers built for 10s, 13s, a few 14s, 16s, 20s, 24s, etc.

Some listed as multivoltage autoswitch based on the pack voltage at the time they're powered up. If youi have a 36v/48v controller, and hook it up to a 48v pack that is anywhere above near-empty, it will "know" it's a 48v pack and autoset it's LVC/HVC appropriately. If it's near empty, it's so close to the switchpoint that it might think it's 36v. And vice-versa, with a full 36v pack could get detected as an empty 48v.
 
Last edited:
Any ebike specific difficulties with VESC hardware/software that I should be aware of?
Not that I know of, there are numerous ebike controllers based around it (some of the OSFW (OSF open source firm ware) projects here on ES are based on it, for instance, some of them are for much larger EVs as well).

The main thing is that many high-power "RC" controllers (regardless of what brain they use) are designed with small low-capacity heatsinks, and poor cooling that is meant to be in the airflow from highspeed props, etc. (same with the RC motors). Used on a relatively heavy ground vehicle, startup torque demands much higher currents for much longer than the original design usage, and the heatsinkls don't ahve the thermal capacity to deal with taht, and/or the FETs dont' have the thermal path to get heat out fast enough, etc.

This too-often causes blown FETs, overheating, even PCB damage, occasionally physical motor damage depending on what exactly happens when the FETs fail (since they usually fail shorted, which shorts the motor phases, and if it's a DD hubmotor or other non-freewheeling system it can then damage whatever the motor is mounted to, or hte actual motor shaft or axle if it can't handle the sudden lockup torque on it).


It happens with cheap ebike controllers too (and scoooter/motorcycle), with poorly mounted FETs / heatsinks / casings, and/or units mounted inside bags or boxes or frames with insufficient thermal path to the outside air.
 
The main thing is that many high-power "RC" controllers (regardless of what brain they use) are designed with small low-capacity heatsinks, and poor cooling that is meant to be in the airflow from highspeed props, etc. (same with the RC motors). Used on a relatively heavy ground vehicle, startup torque demands much higher currents for much longer than the original design usage, and the heatsinkls don't ahve the thermal capacity to deal with taht, and/or the FETs dont' have the thermal path to get heat out fast enough, etc.
I'm pretty confident the VESC project was designed for skateboards. Are you referring to VESC controllers specifically as "RC" controllers?
Or is this more specifically about RC speed controllers like the castle creations mamba XLX or hobbyking max4? I'm not familiar with any RC plane equipment.

Or is this just a general warning to ensure I'm looking at motors and controllers that can thermally handle the power I intend to use?
 
Just in general about controller design--make sure whatever you're after is designed for the purpose you're going to use it, or that you design your system around the limitations of what you use.

For instance, if you use a controller with inadequate cooling, you can add better cooling if it's design allows for it, and if your system / vehicle design allows for it.

Same for a motor.

It's not about what they're "rated" for, since those may even have nothing to do with reality and everything to do with increasing sales :( but rather what they can do in the specific environment and usage they're going to be in.

The VESC, for instance, has many versions with physically divergent layouts and powerstages, some of which are useful for ground vehicles with high current loading for long periods and some of which are not. (for instance, there are VESC-based controllers that might work for a small RC plane, car or boat that claim dozens to hundreds of amps capability***--but if you use them to drive a big DD hubmotor on an ebike, and try to start from a complete stop by motor only, especially under a high-load situation (heavy rider, going up hill, etc), they would probably rapidly overheat and either shutdown if properly designed and built, or just blow up if not.

The same is true of any controller that can't shed it's heat fast enough, regardless of the source design.

There are VESC variants designed for large human-carrying aircraft and ground vehicles as well...and those are physically designed around the necessary heat capacity to handle the power needed for this...or with cooling methods built in or required for them and noted in their docs, etc.


***because they *can* do that kind of current, just not for very long without sufficient (high) airflow or water cooling, etc., which you won't typically have on an ebike/scooter/etc. They don't need to do it very long (less than a second in many cases) with common scale-model RC devices, but they may have to do it for at least several seconds or longer for a full-size heavy ground vehicle, and they don't all have the thermal capacity for that.
 
It's not about what they're "rated" for, since those may even have nothing to do with reality and everything to do with increasing sales
I think this is part of my confusion. Wouldn't most 4kw ebike hubs be capable of much more than my little 4kw esk8 motor? I understand inflating specs for the sake of marketing but ebike motors seem to be under rated right?
 
I think this is part of my confusion. Wouldn't most 4kw ebike hubs be capable of much more than my little 4kw esk8 motor? I understand inflating specs for the sake of marketing but ebike motors seem to be under rated right?
The power isn't directly comparable as just power. You have to compare specific motor and system design, usage, conditions, etc.

For instance...the tiny RC motors are only capable of those power levels when used at high RPM, so that the RPM itself is part of the power creation. (power = speed x torque) If you tried to use one of those small high speed motors at say, typical hubmotor RPM, for that kind of continuous power, it would burn up, because it would be running so far below it's winding RPM that it's BEMF would be negligible, so current would remain high, and waste heat generation would remain high. But if you run it as a middrive (or even friction drive) so it can run near it's correct RPM for the voltage it's used at, then it could produce much of the power it was actually designed to, as long as the motor can keep it's BEMF up and phase current down.

This does *not* mean it can produce what an ad says it can, outside it's original intended use, because the ground vehicle usage is not going to have the built in cooling of the RC usage, and it's going to have far more mass to accelerate so the power it requires to do this will be used for far longer than it would in the RC usage, so the motor will be at lower RPM than intended for the given voltage and load for far longer, and heat will be generated in higher amounts for longer.

So if you take an RC motor (etc) that normally runs at 5000RPM and then stick it in a usage that loads it up at only 500RPM, you can only use it at a tenth of the power it could have been used at, at most (assuming equivalent cooling, etc).


Conversely, if you were to take a hubmotor and (assuming it could physically handle the RPM) spin it as fast as the tiny RC motor, then it could produce proportionally more power than it did at the slow RPM in the wheel.



Ratings.... :/

Hubmotor (and other motor) "ratings" are worth very little, usually "made up" by a seller or even a manufacturer, with no dyno testing to find out what they can actually do under a variety of conditions and usages. They may be based on some form of reality, such that some other similar motor that *was* dyno tested can handle some amount of power, so the maker or seller of this different motor claims only a "little" more than that one could do, for instance.

Many motors are sold as a wattage that fits a specific legal requirement, but could actually handle much more if used correctly in the right system and riding conditions, etc. Other motors are sold as being far more capable than they actually are, so they could handle a *peak* power for a few seconds that is close to the claims, but if you did that continuously they'd overheat.

But none of the ratings are applicable outside the specific usage and conditions they're designed for, so if they don't provide that info as well, the rating isn't useful--you'd have to assume a specific usage and conditions, whcih may or may not have anything to do with what they meant. Ebikes.ca has a good page about motor ratings that sums this all up in other ways:


All of those things are also true of the controllers used for them. (and even batteries (there is LOTS of discussion around here about battery "ratings"))



I highly recommend checking out the simulators at ebikes.ca to see how all the different things interact to change system behavior and requirements; experimenting with it will teach you quite a bit about how things actually work under various conditions without spending any money on parts and blowing them up. ;)
 
Back
Top