Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!
- Thread starter VasiliSk
- Start date
exe
10 W
VasiliSk said:DHL works fine, just pricy
Maybe it is time for a group buy. for different regions, US, Europe etc. Then one person in each region can re send plus small fee for his/her trouble.
Altair
1 kW
I'm all for this. But if DHL's prices are exhorbitant for small packages, won't they be also for large packages?
Wouldn't it be better to try to solve the shipping cost problem before we embark on a group buy?
Another thing is that (in my case) Canada Post is still practically stalled. I recently ordered two 18650 cells from a seller in Alberta, and it took 5 weeks to get to Quebec.
I understand that I could use a courier like Fedex or whatever once within the country, but this only increases the total shipping cost.
Wouldn't it be better to try to solve the shipping cost problem before we embark on a group buy?
Another thing is that (in my case) Canada Post is still practically stalled. I recently ordered two 18650 cells from a seller in Alberta, and it took 5 weeks to get to Quebec.
I understand that I could use a courier like Fedex or whatever once within the country, but this only increases the total shipping cost.
parabellum said:
From Russia?
What do you mean, "solve"?Altair said:
Either you
A. pay the cost required by a relatively fast reliable private carrier, or
B. you take your chances with public postal services, and quite likely never get it, or maybe in 6 -8 months, or
C. wait for Russia to "solve" its COVID-19 epidemic before placing your order
Unless you know someone flying from there to your location that can carry it in their luggage
those are pretty much the only options, unless Vasily decides to produce his controllers in China, or another country with better shipping choices
Altair
1 kW
"Solve" meant trying to find a cheaper courier that still offers normal delivery times.
Vasilii could maybe call them and try to arrange special rates with their business representatives, as this won't be a one-time shipment but rather regular shipments from a company.
Rates are always negotiable when the shipper does regular shipments, it works like that with all of them. You call them and make an arrangement with them. They will even supply you with the pre-printed label to put on each box, no need anymore to manually fill up the damn waybill for every package you send.
I've had my own company, I know how it works.
Vasilii could maybe call them and try to arrange special rates with their business representatives, as this won't be a one-time shipment but rather regular shipments from a company.
Rates are always negotiable when the shipper does regular shipments, it works like that with all of them. You call them and make an arrangement with them. They will even supply you with the pre-printed label to put on each box, no need anymore to manually fill up the damn waybill for every package you send.
I've had my own company, I know how it works.
VasiliSk
1 kW
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2014
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- 420
Yeah i asked dhl manager at my last visit to office, they said with this amount discount will be small, greedy bastards :lol:
And they take so much time to pack a single package! Im already missing for normal post, it's much faster or same time to ship it, depends on operator qualification. For DHL price i expected faster service.
I will figure this shipping stuff over time, just not everything at once.
And they take so much time to pack a single package! Im already missing for normal post, it's much faster or same time to ship it, depends on operator qualification. For DHL price i expected faster service.
I will figure this shipping stuff over time, just not everything at once.
thoroughbred
100 W
I'm fine with DHL. I would rather you spend your time on your products rather than stressing about how to save the buyer every penny on shipping.
Pantera_666
1 mW
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2019
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- 18
Hey guys! i'm in need of a bit of support with my 24fet controller...
i use it in my bike to go work everyday, i really need it working asap
So while riding, out of nowhere, the display just turned off as the motor locked on for a brief second. Then i tried to turn if on again but the motor would not spin at all. So i go on "devices" and the controller wasn't there... Later on i tried it again, this time the controller shows in "devices" but as soon as i hit the throttle the whole thing just dies. You can hear the motor trying to spin for a brief moment, but like i said it just dies right after...
Man i don't know where to start, the only thing that comes to my mind is a mosfet? If i knew what is wrong, i could probably fix it myself but I'm hesitant to start messing with the controller before i get proper advice or guidance...
i was running it at 120a 52v, 200phase amps (nothing crazy...) on a qs v3 motor, peak 5600w... And yes, i checked the battery and bms, they are not to blame...
How can i proceed?
i just checked the resistance between the negative and the phases, and one of the phases shows 0.7k ohm while the other two show 36k ohms...
Pretty sure is one or more mosfets blown...
i use it in my bike to go work everyday, i really need it working asap
So while riding, out of nowhere, the display just turned off as the motor locked on for a brief second. Then i tried to turn if on again but the motor would not spin at all. So i go on "devices" and the controller wasn't there... Later on i tried it again, this time the controller shows in "devices" but as soon as i hit the throttle the whole thing just dies. You can hear the motor trying to spin for a brief moment, but like i said it just dies right after...
Man i don't know where to start, the only thing that comes to my mind is a mosfet? If i knew what is wrong, i could probably fix it myself but I'm hesitant to start messing with the controller before i get proper advice or guidance...
i was running it at 120a 52v, 200phase amps (nothing crazy...) on a qs v3 motor, peak 5600w... And yes, i checked the battery and bms, they are not to blame...
How can i proceed?
i just checked the resistance between the negative and the phases, and one of the phases shows 0.7k ohm while the other two show 36k ohms...
Pretty sure is one or more mosfets blown...
Pantera_666
1 mW
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2019
- Messages
- 18
nope, it's not potted...
When you try to turn the motor by hand, with it connected to the controller, is it hard to turn?Pantera_666 said:
Does it become easy to turn when disconnected from the controller?
If so, then the most likely thing is one (or more) phases' FETs are blown (shorted). This would match with your ohms readings, if your'e doing those like it says over on http://ebikes.ca/learn in the troubleshooting tab.
If it is not easy to turn when disconnected from the controller, then it might have blown the FET(s) by having shorted phases inside the motor (windings) or shorted phase wires either at the connector or somewhere in the motor cable (usually right the exit from teh motor, whree the cable gets bent/flexed or where it can get damaged in a crash or fallover of a bike (for hubmotors).
Another thing that can cause it is a loose phase wire connection, where arcing can occur, and the RF from the arcing can blow the FETs on that phase. Often this is obvious from heat damage (distortion, melting, etc) on a connector, but not always.
More rarely, a hall sensor can fail, either electronically or jsut a bad connection, and the controller fails to provide the right timing for the instant before it stops trying to power the motor, and the feedback from this can blow FETs.
OneBadWolf
10 mW
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- Feb 28, 2017
- Messages
- 23
Altair said:
Canada Post is the worst. Its even more terrible at my end of the country. 6 weeks for Expedited Parcel from On. to Ab. The Mississauga black hole swallows everything. A decent logistics company can still get stuff shipped quick and cheap though.
Perhaps selling through Amazon or eBay in order to use their shipping and logistics networks would be worth whatever the surcharge is. Have you considered that option Vasili?
Something needs to happen. As things are going, the Chinese will have Nucular controller clones available on Ali Express before the pre-orders are fulfilled.
Pantera_666
1 mW
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- Sep 26, 2019
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- 18
Yes sir, you are absolutely correct, blown mosfets...
so i took the controller apart and it seems that if got water in somehow...
So question is: which mosfets to get, and where can i buy them? I'm in the US by the way...
so i took the controller apart and it seems that if got water in somehow...
So question is: which mosfets to get, and where can i buy them? I'm in the US by the way...
Unless you are replacing all of the FETs in the controller, use the same ones that are already in there.
If you're replacing all of them, you can replace with different ones, but generallly this is probably a good enough controller that the fets it's designed with are probably good ones to use the same type.
Also note that if there's water damage that caused them to blow, there is almost certainly damage to other parts than the FETs, like gate drivers, and potentially gate power supply or even the MCU (the lines that control the gates).
You can test the gate drivers' basic function by taking the blown FETs out, then tracing out the circuit for gate drive. If they are IC chips, that's easy by looking up the p/n on them and finding the datasheet whcih has pinouts and suggested circuits to show you the parts you're looking for. If they are discrete transistors, it's a little harder. Once you find the output of the gate drive, you can meausre the voltage there while inputting the correct voltage at the input pin, or by attempting to operate the controller (minus the FETs and without motor attached), to see if it pulses the gate drive output at the same time it pulses the gate drive input. If the gate drive has no output, it's blown too, and needs to be replaced.
If the gate drive is blown in a way that leaves them *on*, rather than off, then you can blow the FETs again just by turning on the controller, because it can cause a pass-thru event where boht top and bottom FETs in a bridge are both turned on at the same time, and battery current flows directly thru (instead of going thru the motor first).
Also...make sure to test your motor...or you may just blow the FETs again if one of the posted problem exists.
If you're replacing all of them, you can replace with different ones, but generallly this is probably a good enough controller that the fets it's designed with are probably good ones to use the same type.
Also note that if there's water damage that caused them to blow, there is almost certainly damage to other parts than the FETs, like gate drivers, and potentially gate power supply or even the MCU (the lines that control the gates).
You can test the gate drivers' basic function by taking the blown FETs out, then tracing out the circuit for gate drive. If they are IC chips, that's easy by looking up the p/n on them and finding the datasheet whcih has pinouts and suggested circuits to show you the parts you're looking for. If they are discrete transistors, it's a little harder. Once you find the output of the gate drive, you can meausre the voltage there while inputting the correct voltage at the input pin, or by attempting to operate the controller (minus the FETs and without motor attached), to see if it pulses the gate drive output at the same time it pulses the gate drive input. If the gate drive has no output, it's blown too, and needs to be replaced.
If the gate drive is blown in a way that leaves them *on*, rather than off, then you can blow the FETs again just by turning on the controller, because it can cause a pass-thru event where boht top and bottom FETs in a bridge are both turned on at the same time, and battery current flows directly thru (instead of going thru the motor first).
Also...make sure to test your motor...or you may just blow the FETs again if one of the posted problem exists.
This is the first time I have heard of a hardware failure on a Nucular.
After repair, it must be made waterproof. Unfortunately the problems with post office does not make things easier but it would be better to send it back to Vasili for repair ans potting.
After repair, it must be made waterproof. Unfortunately the problems with post office does not make things easier but it would be better to send it back to Vasili for repair ans potting.
serious_sam
10 kW
Careful. This is NOT a "hardware failure", per se.PITMIX said:
Unfortunately for Pantera_666 (but fortunately for all other Nuc owners, I guess) this is user error:
Pantera_666 said:
Yes I spoke of hardware failure but not that the hardware is involved. Indeed it is a water infiltration but I still think that it is a weakness of this controller. The passage of cables is absolutely not waterproof against splashes. With a better seal at this level it would be sufficient without taking the option of potting.
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