auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
This is easy cheasy once you learn how, but it can be a major PITA if you don't know the tricks.
Here are the tools - you don't need all of them, but it helps.
A automotive 3 jaw pulley helps immensely, but is not required.
Remove disc and freewheel and cut off connectors. I'm lucky to have a desk that makes this easier, but you can use blocks of wood or even two chairs.
The first step is to use either/or the box knife and sharpie to mark the motor so that the cover can be put back on the same way. This is because the motor covers aren't machined precisely, and if you don't put it on the same way you may get some scary rubbing sounds for the first hundred miles.
Ok. You CAN use a power drill to undo the bolts. My drill bit set didn't come with the appropriate allen key, but a square bit works. HOWEVER, the screws are made of VERY soft metal and WILL strip VERY EASILY and then you'd be VERY (un)screwed! Loosen first and tighten last manually with an allen key. You're supposed to do this in a star pattern to tension properly, but that's more important when tightening.
This makes life easier.
Now use the smallest flat head you have. Eyeglass kits are available at the dollar store and on ebay. Insert it in a screw hole so you may see how far it is going in. It is VERY important that it doesn't go in too far!!!!
If it does, it could break a motor winding and then the motor may be done for (unless you feel like rewinding the damn thing)
EDIT: it's been pointed it out that the screw holes are the weakest point on the cover and you should pry up on them. It's probably fine to tap the screwdriver in there, but don't pry up there. Another option is to mark the maximum depth on the screwdrivers themselves.
Work your way up in sizes going around the motor in a star pattern - careful to not hit the windings. This is hard the first time you open it as the motor is sealed with some water proof glue.
Once it's open big enough to fit the box wrenches in, you should be able to easily pry it off.
Once the cover is lose, it may not come all the way off. Flip the motor over, put your arms through the spokes, and press like hell on the back side of the cover. It may be a PITA but it WILL pop off eventually. Just be careful not to impale yourself on the axle when it finally gives.
If someone has an easier way to do this step, I'd love to hear it.
That's it! Now you can replace burnt out hall sensors, ventilate the covers, upgrade the phase wires, and install a temp sensor. All of which I'll be covering soon.
I don't think many will be interested in removing the stator as almost all the mods and repairs don't require it. If you'd like to though, here is a useful video.
Here are the tools - you don't need all of them, but it helps.
A automotive 3 jaw pulley helps immensely, but is not required.
Remove disc and freewheel and cut off connectors. I'm lucky to have a desk that makes this easier, but you can use blocks of wood or even two chairs.
The first step is to use either/or the box knife and sharpie to mark the motor so that the cover can be put back on the same way. This is because the motor covers aren't machined precisely, and if you don't put it on the same way you may get some scary rubbing sounds for the first hundred miles.
Ok. You CAN use a power drill to undo the bolts. My drill bit set didn't come with the appropriate allen key, but a square bit works. HOWEVER, the screws are made of VERY soft metal and WILL strip VERY EASILY and then you'd be VERY (un)screwed! Loosen first and tighten last manually with an allen key. You're supposed to do this in a star pattern to tension properly, but that's more important when tightening.
This makes life easier.
Now use the smallest flat head you have. Eyeglass kits are available at the dollar store and on ebay. Insert it in a screw hole so you may see how far it is going in. It is VERY important that it doesn't go in too far!!!!
If it does, it could break a motor winding and then the motor may be done for (unless you feel like rewinding the damn thing)
EDIT: it's been pointed it out that the screw holes are the weakest point on the cover and you should pry up on them. It's probably fine to tap the screwdriver in there, but don't pry up there. Another option is to mark the maximum depth on the screwdrivers themselves.
Work your way up in sizes going around the motor in a star pattern - careful to not hit the windings. This is hard the first time you open it as the motor is sealed with some water proof glue.
Once it's open big enough to fit the box wrenches in, you should be able to easily pry it off.
Once the cover is lose, it may not come all the way off. Flip the motor over, put your arms through the spokes, and press like hell on the back side of the cover. It may be a PITA but it WILL pop off eventually. Just be careful not to impale yourself on the axle when it finally gives.
If someone has an easier way to do this step, I'd love to hear it.
That's it! Now you can replace burnt out hall sensors, ventilate the covers, upgrade the phase wires, and install a temp sensor. All of which I'll be covering soon.
I don't think many will be interested in removing the stator as almost all the mods and repairs don't require it. If you'd like to though, here is a useful video.
)
