markz
100 TW
https://sheldonbrown.com/inner-tubes.html
Opinions on Slime (or similar products)?
- Thread starter AHicks
- Start date
I live in goathead central and slime and stans no tubes have both let me down, in addition to tire liners and every 'flat proof' tire imagineable. The only thing that survives on these roads is motorcycle tires. Thick rubber is the only answer.
The thickest bike tire i have ever seen had 7mm tall rubber. I'd estimate that goatheads are about 12mm tall. Thats a problem!
The thickest bike tire i have ever seen had 7mm tall rubber. I'd estimate that goatheads are about 12mm tall. Thats a problem!
Chalo
100 TW
neptronix said:
For such conditions, and assuming an e-bike, I'd use a Freedom ThickSlick Deluxe with the wire beads cut off, tucked inside a Maxxis Hookworm.
And I would consider relocating.
The drier parts of the west are my home, so i'd rather engineer a solution 8)
I havent done tire in a tire yet, but i suppose if you could get two 7mm thick tires in parallel, you'd have a light motorcycle tire. My only concern is how the inner tire fits in the bigger one.
How do you make sure that there isn't a seam that adds a lil' bump or divot to the outer tire? A heavy application of duct tape or what?
I havent done tire in a tire yet, but i suppose if you could get two 7mm thick tires in parallel, you'd have a light motorcycle tire. My only concern is how the inner tire fits in the bigger one.
How do you make sure that there isn't a seam that adds a lil' bump or divot to the outer tire? A heavy application of duct tape or what?
Use an inner tire that is slightly smaller than the outer tire, and just take the bead off. If you use two identical tires, one doesn't fit right in the other.
I have tried the extra tire thing, including leaving the bead on once, so the inner tire would work even if the outer one disintegrated (which happened) but I get better results with extra old tubes with the valve stem cut off and then slit along it's inner circumference, so it can simply be slipped on over the actual tube you're going to use.
You can use multiple layers like this, if you need the thickness, and you can even put those plastic protector strips between tire and tube safely, becuase the extra tube layer(s) protect the actual tube from being sliced open by the strips.
But...given the choice, I'd rather use an actual moped or motorcycle tire than have to do all those things, if the MP/MC tire was sufficient to stop the threats. Mostly so I don't have to deal with lining up all the layers whenever doing work on the wheel/tire.
So far, the Shinko SR714 16"x2.5" tires I've been using on the rear of SB Cruiser have done perfectly fine--the only issues I have run into so far were:
-- one, just one, pinhole puncture from who knows what; had to keep airing up the tire (didn't use slime at the time, though I have kept some in there since then, with no signs it's had to do anything, when I have had teh tires off for other wheel work like bent up rims from potholes, or moving rims/spokes from motor to another for upgrades).
-- even the "good" bicycle tubes can still ahve crappy valve stem joins to the tube and can fail there; using the MP/MC tubes with metal stems/joins and the nut to secure them to the rim fixes that problem.
-- rim tape failure (from not using actual rim tape or it's equivalent, and using other solutions instead like electrical tape
) allowed the tubes (any of htem) to get cut (like snakebite) on the inner circumference of the tube, usually small enough to just cause a leak rahter than a complete flat. Of course, slime/etc won't plug that area. Patches don't work well on that area either.
Other than those tube failures, I have had no problems with the trike since changing to the Shinkos, for something like two years I guess it's been, where all the various bike tires I'd tried in the rear up to that point either wore out very quickly (a month or so) or failed in some other way, or allowed punctures from various debris. The trike has grown notably heavier since then, too, so the Shinkos have to deal with that as well.
I have tried the extra tire thing, including leaving the bead on once, so the inner tire would work even if the outer one disintegrated (which happened) but I get better results with extra old tubes with the valve stem cut off and then slit along it's inner circumference, so it can simply be slipped on over the actual tube you're going to use.
You can use multiple layers like this, if you need the thickness, and you can even put those plastic protector strips between tire and tube safely, becuase the extra tube layer(s) protect the actual tube from being sliced open by the strips.
But...given the choice, I'd rather use an actual moped or motorcycle tire than have to do all those things, if the MP/MC tire was sufficient to stop the threats. Mostly so I don't have to deal with lining up all the layers whenever doing work on the wheel/tire.
So far, the Shinko SR714 16"x2.5" tires I've been using on the rear of SB Cruiser have done perfectly fine--the only issues I have run into so far were:
-- one, just one, pinhole puncture from who knows what; had to keep airing up the tire (didn't use slime at the time, though I have kept some in there since then, with no signs it's had to do anything, when I have had teh tires off for other wheel work like bent up rims from potholes, or moving rims/spokes from motor to another for upgrades).
-- even the "good" bicycle tubes can still ahve crappy valve stem joins to the tube and can fail there; using the MP/MC tubes with metal stems/joins and the nut to secure them to the rim fixes that problem.
-- rim tape failure (from not using actual rim tape or it's equivalent, and using other solutions instead like electrical tape
) allowed the tubes (any of htem) to get cut (like snakebite) on the inner circumference of the tube, usually small enough to just cause a leak rahter than a complete flat. Of course, slime/etc won't plug that area. Patches don't work well on that area either. Other than those tube failures, I have had no problems with the trike since changing to the Shinkos, for something like two years I guess it's been, where all the various bike tires I'd tried in the rear up to that point either wore out very quickly (a month or so) or failed in some other way, or allowed punctures from various debris. The trike has grown notably heavier since then, too, so the Shinkos have to deal with that as well.
Chalo
100 TW
The main problem with motorcycle tires is that most of them only fit motorcycle rims. So you wind up eating like a 5X total wheel weight penalty when you only needed a little more tire to address the problem.
16 inch moped tires on 20 inch bicycle rims are an exception. But they are pretty seriously compromised by their small diameter. My current e-bike has a 20 inch front wheel, and that's its biggest drawback. Larger wheels make for better speed, better ride quality, better traction.
16 inch moped tires on 20 inch bicycle rims are an exception. But they are pretty seriously compromised by their small diameter. My current e-bike has a 20 inch front wheel, and that's its biggest drawback. Larger wheels make for better speed, better ride quality, better traction.
MadRhino
100 GW
Yep. Large wheels are so much a better ride, unless you are 4ft9...
Thorns are PITA. I would go tubeless, use Cush Core tire inserts and 5oz of Green Slime. The same as they use in elite DH racing. Low PSI UST racing knobby tires of course. Noisy on pavement, but so much more reliable. The weight of motorcycle wheels is an absolute turnoff to me.
Thorns are PITA. I would go tubeless, use Cush Core tire inserts and 5oz of Green Slime. The same as they use in elite DH racing. Low PSI UST racing knobby tires of course. Noisy on pavement, but so much more reliable. The weight of motorcycle wheels is an absolute turnoff to me.
Chalo
100 TW
Here's an example of one of the unintended consequences of Slime in a bicycle tube:
Glycol ooze has compromised the adhesion between the brass valve body and the rubber tube.
This failure is less common than Slime clogging or fouling the valve, but I've seen it many times.
Glycol ooze has compromised the adhesion between the brass valve body and the rubber tube.
This failure is less common than Slime clogging or fouling the valve, but I've seen it many times.
wturber
1 MW
Interesting. You'd think centrifugal force would keep the Slime away from the valve.
But speaking of Slime, a bottle of it saved my bacon this last Saturday when I had a flat that was caused by a crack/cut in the rubber about 1/8" from base of the Presta valve for my front inner tube. I had to try to patch since the spare tube I had was a Shrader valve tube - which is what I have on ther rear. That was dumb of me. A Presta would work for either rim in an emergency. After two failed attempts at patching, it looked like I was sunk and would either have to walk 8.5 miles or call for a ride. Then I noticed that there was an Ace Hardware close by. I walked over and bought an 8 oz bottle of Slime.
I installed the full 8 oz bottle and rather than spin the wheel, I bounced it so that Slime would splash up against the valve. Spinning would have caused the slime to move away from the inner perimeter of the tube. I also held the tire with valve side up for a bit and then would quickly invert it hoping this would cause the Slime to cascade down along the inner perimeter.
One or both of the methods ... or shear volume of Slime ... got enough Slime to the crack to seal it up well enough to get me home. I only had to stop and re-fill the tire once.
FWIW, I've since drilled out the valve hole in the front rim and am now sanely running Schrader valves front and back.
But speaking of Slime, a bottle of it saved my bacon this last Saturday when I had a flat that was caused by a crack/cut in the rubber about 1/8" from base of the Presta valve for my front inner tube. I had to try to patch since the spare tube I had was a Shrader valve tube - which is what I have on ther rear. That was dumb of me. A Presta would work for either rim in an emergency. After two failed attempts at patching, it looked like I was sunk and would either have to walk 8.5 miles or call for a ride. Then I noticed that there was an Ace Hardware close by. I walked over and bought an 8 oz bottle of Slime.
I installed the full 8 oz bottle and rather than spin the wheel, I bounced it so that Slime would splash up against the valve. Spinning would have caused the slime to move away from the inner perimeter of the tube. I also held the tire with valve side up for a bit and then would quickly invert it hoping this would cause the Slime to cascade down along the inner perimeter.
One or both of the methods ... or shear volume of Slime ... got enough Slime to the crack to seal it up well enough to get me home. I only had to stop and re-fill the tire once.
FWIW, I've since drilled out the valve hole in the front rim and am now sanely running Schrader valves front and back.
MadRhino
100 GW
Chalo said:
What kind of slime?
I have been using automotive green slime for many decades without such problem. Yet, I have the habit of buying and replacing tubes and tires together, so I might never had one old enough for that problem to develop. Now that I am turning my bikes tubeless, the valves will likely stay on the wheel and see many tires.
markz
100 TW
Thorn Proof Tubes - https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn-Resistant-Bicycle-Tube/dp/B000AOA0KG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=thorn+proof+tubes+26%22&qid=1560483959&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Use an old Thorn Proof for a custom Tire Liner. Simply cut the valve off, and cut length-wise, put between tire and tube.
Just found these....
Thorn Proof with Slime by Slime - https://www.amazon.com/Slime-30046-Self-Sealing-Schrader-1-75-2-125/dp/B000ENQRCI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thorn+proof+tubes+26%22+with+slime&qid=1560484065&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Remember, always carry spares, along with the tools to change the old tube out.
Use an old Thorn Proof for a custom Tire Liner. Simply cut the valve off, and cut length-wise, put between tire and tube.
Just found these....
Thorn Proof with Slime by Slime - https://www.amazon.com/Slime-30046-Self-Sealing-Schrader-1-75-2-125/dp/B000ENQRCI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thorn+proof+tubes+26%22+with+slime&qid=1560484065&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Remember, always carry spares, along with the tools to change the old tube out.
markz
100 TW
^Sure beats using these Tire Liners....
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4001-642/Bicycle-Tire-Liners-%28700-x-28-32%29
....These are a waste of money....
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5032-730/20-x-1-75-2-125-Tube-Schrader-Valve
Today: Brand spanking new, in package, in front of Waltons Chinese Store and a pin hole.... luckily I caught it, but I was astounded, perhaps I installed the old flat. No worries, to Waltons $10 Bell with Slime inside + $5 Bell but they were in millimeters 26" Schreader 40-51mm.... maybe they got a cheap deal and pawned it off on Waltons customers.
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4001-642/Bicycle-Tire-Liners-%28700-x-28-32%29
....These are a waste of money....
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5032-730/20-x-1-75-2-125-Tube-Schrader-Valve
Today: Brand spanking new, in package, in front of Waltons Chinese Store and a pin hole.... luckily I caught it, but I was astounded, perhaps I installed the old flat. No worries, to Waltons $10 Bell with Slime inside + $5 Bell but they were in millimeters 26" Schreader 40-51mm.... maybe they got a cheap deal and pawned it off on Waltons customers.
Chalo
100 TW
MadRhino said:
It was green. Which flavor of green Slime, I don't know-- but I know the feeling of glycol.
The tube was branded Specialized light weight.
motomech
10 MW
I have my doubts about how effective sealant in tubes can be. In the event the tube is torn or sliced, the sealant won't work, so it's only effective if whatever caused the puncture stays in place.
I battled goat's head thorns for a number of years until I went with "Flat-resistant" tires. The Schwalbe Marathon series was effective and I never had a flat with them, but I never liked the squirmy feeling the thick tread imparted.
I have since switched over to WTB Slicks flatguard sport(A misnomer, since they have tread);
https://www.amazon.com/WTB-Slick-Flatguard-Sport-Tire/dp/B004YK101K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
and I must say, these are the best bicycle tires I have ever used(They should be @ almost $50 ea.). The tread is not as thick as the Schwalbes and they don't feel squirmy. Unfortunately, they don't seem to avail. in the 26" size anymore. A shame.
I pair them up with the, hard to find Kenda extra thick tubes and enjoy the carefree flat assurance, while retraining good rolling and handling.
I battled goat's head thorns for a number of years until I went with "Flat-resistant" tires. The Schwalbe Marathon series was effective and I never had a flat with them, but I never liked the squirmy feeling the thick tread imparted.
I have since switched over to WTB Slicks flatguard sport(A misnomer, since they have tread);
https://www.amazon.com/WTB-Slick-Flatguard-Sport-Tire/dp/B004YK101K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
and I must say, these are the best bicycle tires I have ever used(They should be @ almost $50 ea.). The tread is not as thick as the Schwalbes and they don't feel squirmy. Unfortunately, they don't seem to avail. in the 26" size anymore. A shame.
I pair them up with the, hard to find Kenda extra thick tubes and enjoy the carefree flat assurance, while retraining good rolling and handling.
MadRhino
100 GW
Nothing is better than a tubeless tire with a Cush Core insert and 6oz of slime. You can ride it as low PSI as you want, it does keep seated on the rim if you ride it on a flat. Fix a flat in seconds with the wheel on the bike, only needing a tubeless plug kit. And, it does ride better, less bouncy because of the insert. Downsides: Higher cost for tires and inserts, more work replacing a tire.
wturber
1 MW
motomech said:
That's not really true. My tire and tube were cut and the tube sealed in a few seconds and stayed sealed after adding some more air.
[youtube]YEAAIxuyIxw[/youtube]
The tube stayed sealed. Here's the actual cut and the stuff I pulled out of it. the fibers filled the cut.
I no longer run Slime in my tubes. I don't like the mess it can create. I prefer to armor the tubes instead. But it works on more than just small punctures.
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