Over due Rear 9C report

[nineball]

I finally got arround to swapping out my bent hub/rim (700c 29")for the new 9c rear (28") setup from E-bikekit.com, ThankYou Jason.

I did have a few problems however..

First, I installed it with 1 of the included spacer rings for the freewheel, and it was too far out and the chain hit the dropout on the last gear, so I took it all apart and removed the spacer, only to find that it is still to far out and I still can't use the last gear. Not a biggy for me, because I only peddle for effect.

Second, the "All rims are trued" before shippng got me excited to have a trued rim finally....NOT!!

Sorry Jason, but this one must have missed the stand, was way off.

Third, I reached for the included spoke wrench (to true the wheel)....missing...in both kits/hubs...I got 2

There was a nice torque arm, and axle end caps included.

The PLUS side is..the hub works great, performs as good as the 48v 1000w it replaced.

I'm running it on 84V,(allmost 100v with topped batteries) with a keywin controller, motor temps are fine, 75-80F, torque is great, and I can hit 40MPH with ease. I regulary hit 45+ on downgrades, I actualy have to watch my speed to conserve batteries, I find myself @ 35+, too much for my batteries.

I must have a good ten trips on it now (100+ miles), and it hasn't skipped a beat..

I'm in the process of building a tadpole trike with a 26" rear hub too, more to follow.

I have yet to test anything that claims better than this 9C, but for the money way bother, 45MPH is plenty for me.

Thank You, E-Bikekit.com, Great Hub Motor

 

[icecube57]

How in the heck has that 9C stayed at 75-80F. Most certainly not for extended periods. I can barely can keep my Air Cooled GM and the phase wires cool at the same voltage on level ground. 3600w continuous is not good especially with stock wiring. Be careful.

 

[dnmun]

what size spokes did you use on the 29"? are they 13G, they must be long, but the single cross has gotta be less severe. so glad to see someone is running the infineon controller at 100V. i just bot some 4110s from methods to upgrade some more controllers.

i have the 100V1000uF caps, sell them for 30 cents each plus postage, just sold another 32 to dave.

45mph! and it doesn't get hot!!!

what are your Wh/mile?

 

[icecube57]

The highest i put on my Keyin Infenion is 98.4 stock without upgraded power resistors... They are using 4310 fets. I havent checked the rails I probably should... But my nominal is 87-88v so im not to worried about the rails being pulled absurdly high.

My thing is its a 29" wheel so i know its running wait out of its effiency range.

Actually I stand corrected. I just checked Swblutos simulator. On level ground at 100v its 84% effiencient.

My GM is 74%. My GM just sucks all around. The 9C has far better numbers in all the voltage amperage and grade ranges. My motor is trailing atleast 10-15% behind the 9c on effiency.

I feel an upgrade in my future.

 

[dnmun]

do you want me to mail you some 300 ohm 2W resistors? that should help your input a lot.

you most likely are pulling the 12V rail up to 24V and the mosfet drivers are really not that strong, maybe they will go to 35V, but the 5V rail has to be around 9-10V too.

just better to use the power resistors in the input.

 

[nineball]

Well I'll wack it hard in the morning, and take another temp reading, but I've ck'ed it a few times and it's allways been good..85f tops. My Wh/mile, is ??? cause I'm not sure what to set the CA at. Keywin told me 2.0 but I don't think so, I think I'm at 1.5 now and I still run out before the ah is reached. I'll do an amp clamp test and try to match the draw to that............Ok I just ck'ed...shunt @ 1.4, Wh/mile...48.5. amp limit @ 57 (hits it)

The only problem I really have is with connections, mostly the switches and relay. How can I use caps to soften the arch?? Cause the contacts either arch weld shut....stick...melt.....etc. The motor runs @ 75 f ....the switch and relay hit 110+ F......G....if fix that I might hit 50

 

[dnmun]

you can slowly precharge the capacitors if you put a resistor across to make the initial connection, then connect your main connector when it is charged. instantly essentially too.

 

[JasonEBK]

Deleted. Thank you to all at ES.

 

[nineball]

No problems here, just reporting....but i could use a wrench

 

[dogman dan]

Obviously he's not riding where ambient temps are 95F for starters. To get a ballpark idea of motor temps inside, get a reading from the axle. Cover temps are meaninless, but the axle is directly connected by metal to the windings better, giving a reading with less variablility. Then add 30-40 F to that. for the real internal temp. Add 30 in hot weather, and 40 in cold. So if he's really running about 100F on the axle stub, then he's doing 140F. That's totally plausible, but ride length is the other factor in motor temps, likely it would be closer to 200F after 10 miles of non stop full throttle. Temps in the sub 200F range are not uncommon when the air is cool and damp. Even in 95-100 weather, it takes me about 10 miles full speed to reach the hot zone, around 260F.

Anything less than full speed may stay cool all day.

 

[JasonEBK]

Deleted. Thank you to all at ES.