You're not mucking around, constant progress.
Thanks
The prints look great. Are they first iterations? What kind of measuring tools do you use to acquire accurate dimensions?
With the phone holder i already knew the measurements required for fitting onto the frame, 155mm between the tubes, 25mm for the tubes themselves, do that in my design, i use blender because im no good with cad, and it fit first try.
For the holes into which the phone slots i just calipered the outside dimensions of my phone-in-case-folded-open, subtracted a MM from each since the case is pleather and a bit compressible for a secure fit.
For the v-brake posts fender mount i calipered the cylinders onto which it was to slide and measured the distance between them with a ruler, did a basic mockup which was printed 1mm thick for a test fit.
Found i needed to spread the holes by 1mm or so, did that, designed the rest, printed it and found the spacing was right.
But the smaller diameter of the holes, the brake mount posts have a step of about 1mm larger towards where they attach to the frame, this was the area my test printed mockup fitted, was just a fraction too small, fixed by running a right size drill bit through to widen it by those fractions of a MM.
The rest of the fender, its two sides parts and the central rib fitted together and into the v-post-mount first try, they were all designed together, their screw holes booleaned/cut by the same 3d models and their fit against each other designed in with some tolerance added in from experience with putting together 3d printed things.
Another example of printing experience coming into play was the rear light, aiming for strength where needed and designing away having to use a lot of supports, those two are often the same thing as prints are quite strong in x/y and weak in z, relative to the print bed.
The L shaped top part slots inside the other part, its held in by the panel mount style diodes, and forms a clamp which holds to the rear frame rail and is also locked in by the saddle as it is bolted down through it.
The L was printed on its side so all layer lines go through the whole L, and the lower part was printed with the side facing us downwards for the best surface finish on the visible side, supports were required for the overhang closest to the L part and the half circular cutout but the inside was bridged alright by my creality hi, just needed minimal cleanup in there with some tweezers.
Are you going to powder coat the frame?
Dont have the hardware or will to spend for that, im going with spray paint as im not all that fussed a completely polished look. The bare metal is getting matt, or maybe satin, black.
The fender mounts may also be getting black, or possibly silver for a bit of contrast.
The front/rear lights will be silver.
