Phoenix HV ESC - 7 beeps - what does it mean? Also, 3 beeps

[swbluto]

So, I'm having a strange problem with my system and I suspect it's the ESC. I rev up, I decrease throttle, the current sticks for a few more seconds and then it decreases. After that, the ESC seems to ignore the throttle input for a few more seconds and then after about 5-6 seconds, it'll do whatever the throttle wants and the cycle repeats. Eventually, 7 blinks repeatedly show up. What does 7 blinks mean?

Also, if I go full throttle for a few seconds (Like 5 seconds), the ESC just stops the motor and then it blinks quickly somewhere between 15 and 20 times. ???

The manual at http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/Phoenix_User_Guide.pdf only seems to go upto 6. Maybe their manual is out of date?

 

[recumpence]

Sounds like your controller is in default lipo mode that beeps telling you how many cells you have before running. Also, it sounds like it is in auto throttle calibration mode. Or, you are hitting LV cutoff. If that happens, the controller shuts down and gives you a specific number of blinks before it will come back on.

Do you have the Castle Link? If so, go into the programming and set the throttle for "Airplane Fixed Endpoint" and turn off the auto cell calibration mode. Also, make sure the LV cutoff is set properly. If you never changed your settings and this came up on its own, that may be from merely turning it on. A small ripple goes through the system on power-up that can reset the default settings. I have had it happen to me a month ago.

I can PM you my number if you would like to talk on the phone. That may be easier.

Matt

 

[swbluto]

So, it would beep the number of cells it thought it had if it under-volted? I'm running 9S Lifepo4 and it goes down to 29.5 volts under no-load. I'm guessing the cutoff is 2.5 volt per cell or 17.5 volts for 7S?

I'll have to load test my batteries to see if that might be the problem. If that's not the problem, then maybe a connection somewhere.

 

[recumpence]

9S life po4 will look (to the controller) like 7S lipo. So, it sounds like it is in auto lipo calibration mode.

Matt

 

[swbluto]

Okay, so it's acting up now. I tested the voltage of the battery and they were well above the 7s cutout of 21 volts. So, I looked at it and this is how it went...

I held the throttle... it went full throttle, the battery quickly shut down to a lower motor speed, and in a few seconds, it shut down completely. The ESC kept blinking rapidly until I let go of the throttle, and after I did that, it blinked 3 times. After that, it'd repeatedly blink a sequence of 7 blinks assumably telling me how many in series it thinks it's handling. According to the manual, 3 blinks means

...


"Over-Current: Current draw exceeded
the safe capacity of the controller.
Reduce current draw by changing
to a smaller propeller, different gear
combination, or fewer cells."

What??? This is no-load testing hooked to the drive-train, and the measurement of current from my battery is like 5 amps. This is also didn't start acting up until I was about a mile and a half into my ride...

Interestingly, the 5 volt line collapsed at the same time it did this.

 

[AussieJester]

Sounds like she is, as we say here in OZ..."rooted mate" send back
for repair maybe? ...

KiM

 

[swbluto]

I have a little more faith in electronics. I want to troubleshoot until I determine that there's nothing left to do BUT send it back.

Anyways, I did more full throttle no-load testing. I uncoupled the motor from the belt and spun it up. No issue.

I reattached the belt. "over-current Issue".

I detached the belt. No issue.

I attached the belt. "over-current issue".

Ummmm.... Gee, is there a way to turn off that "over current" annoyance? I really don't think the battery is putting out that much current (15 at max), and the phase currents, while they might be high (Seriously doubt it!), should be tolerable with my incredible heat-sinking.

In the programming guide, I noticed an "over current" setting. What setting is recommended? I think I just used the normal setting.

1 Very
Sensitive
Will rapidly shut down when over current is
detected.

2 Sensitive

3 Normal* Moderate over-current threshold, will shut
down after a slight delay. Recommended for
all systems except for helicopters and high
power LMR applications. This is the FACTORY
setting.

4 Insensitive **Recommended setting for all helicopters and
LMR applications (covered under warranty).

5 Disabled Use at your own risk!

This hasn't been an issue before now. The only thing that's changed is that I'm using a 230 kV .03 ohm motor instead of a 200 kV .03 ohm motor, and the belt seems a little tight. Not too bad, though. But, it looks like the back-wheel is being pushed back and isn't being effectively "set" by the adjusters, so I guess I'll readjust that and tighten the adjusters a little more. Maybe the belt is just too tight. Plus, I'll probably need to change the over-current setting. Just need to know if setting 4 is recommended or the risky setting number 5 (Programming is a pain in the butt, so I want to do it right the first time).

 

[recumpence]

Hmm, here's what I would do. Assuming it [may be] bad, I would turn off the current protection and see what happens. Maybe just the sensing circuit is bad. You have nothing to lose. Then again, the 5v dropoff is another clue.

Maybe you have a bad connection somewhere?

Honestly, I think your ESC is fine and there is a different issue. Of course, I could be wrong. My wife says that all the time.

Matt

 

[AussieJester]

I have a little more faith in electronics.

This is another area we differ greatly...i have none and know little LoL.. I am the polar opposite

Hope it is fine, when electronics start doing funny things i usually bin them or get
someone who knows what they are doing to fix it LoL..


Best of luck...

KiM

p.s Matt...maybe it is not you that is wrong...but your wife! :lol:

 

[swbluto]

Okay, so I reprogrammed it to "4 V nicad" or some such to effectively remove the voltage cutout and I also programmed it to setting number 4, insensitive to overcurrent (recommended for high-power LMR applications). I kept the other settings the same. I also loosened the belt a little bit and tightened the axles so that it wouldn't tighten on its own.

Well, guess what, it's doing it again. Yippee!

Except, there's something different. Instead of rapidly flashing and then flashing 3 times after cutting out, it's now rapidly flashing after cutout and then... nothing. After that, it repeatedly blinks 7 times to indicate 7s I presume. I SWEAR I chose 4V nicad, so I'm thinking it does autodetection on its own.

Why the sensing circuit would be destroyed is beyond me... if this controller wasn't meant for environments with vibration, then that might explain it.

 

[recumpence]

I just did some Googling and found that 7 flashes means "Prop Strike". It sounds like your drive is binding up maybe?

Matt

 

[swbluto]

Maybe. I think I'll contact castle creations to see if there's someone there who can explain it.

 

[recumpence]

Bernie in the tech department is the one to talk to.

They are in the process of moving their facility this week, however. They may not be around.

I would check for binding. That is the only thing I can see that would mean "Prop Strike" in your case.

Matt

 

[swbluto]

Bernie in the tech department is the one to talk to.

They are in the process of moving their facility this week, however. They may not be around.

I would check for binding. That is the only thing I can see that would mean "Prop Strike" in your case.

Matt

I have no idea what "binding" would mean since the scooter is rolling right along when this happens. I assume the belt is rolling right along when this happens, and it seems to accelerate fine for 3 seconds before cutting out.

I got an auto-reply saying they'll be back in July 19th.

Anyways, I really don't want to mention it's being used on a scooter. I fear that total "Yep, sorry, it's all your scooter's fault. You need to buy another one or get yours repaired" without an explanation on what the error code means. It'd be nice if I could actually be lead to fixing whatever the error might be.

Interestingly, when I first start it up, it rolls fine for about 10 seconds before cutting out. After that, it rolls along for about 3 seconds before cutting out.

 

[swbluto]

So, a small update, it doesn't seem to be the ESC at fault.

It seems to be the servo tester. I tested it out by going full throttle and then pulling apart the ESC throttle connection and the same results happened. Also, it apparently resets whenever this happens. So, I'm going to have to investigate that.

EDIT: So I looked at the servo tester and it appears that there was a dry joint on a capacitor. I soldered that on securely and took it out for a spin and the problem went away! Yippee! The castle controller is still kickin'!

 

[recumpence]

That is truely good news! That explains the 5v dropout.

If you call Castle, ask for Bernie. He knows me and is fine with bike questions. He is in a wheelchair. So, he can appreciate small electric transport.

Matt