Pinout of Hub motor

Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Hi

I was given a DD hub motor. Branded TCDM. It doesnt have a controler inside, but has a connector with the 3 Phase wires and 6 smaller pins, which I assume are 3 hall sensors, ground, +5V. I am trying to figure out what the last wire is.
From what I've read, I think it could be a thermistor, speed or an extra hall sensor. Is there a way of telling with a multimeter?

Thanks
 
Since it's DD it's unlikely to be a speed sensor. What resistance does it get from ground to that wire? Does this resistance change with temperature?

FWIW, I use the Ultramotor that was used on the old Stromers and A2Bs, which is what TDCM bought and rebranded as their motor (or rather, they probably made them for Ultramotor, as the Stromer motor actually says TDCM on it's label with the UM logo molded into the covers).

Which connector is on your motor? I can check the one of mine that still has the OEM connector on it to see which pin is the temperature sensor (might be next weekend). On mine it's a 10k NTC of some flavor and is directly compatible with the Cycle Analyst's temp. input. there are pics of my motors, cabling, and connectors over in the recent pages of the SB Cruiser thread.
 
Ok thanks. I emailed TDCM and someone quickly replied with this diagram, which matches the connector I have.
 

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I think that's the same connector as on the A2B Ultramotor/TDCM motors I have. I'll see if it matches wiring just for curiosity. :)
 
I just measured the spacing on this hub and it seems to be 126mm. My bike frame has rear 135mm.
Could I get them to work together with some spacers, or is this a bad Idea?
 
It's probably designed to work with spacers to center it in the dropouts and fix chainline issues (presuming yours is a rear motor as all the others I've seen are so far)

As long as the spacers on the drive side don't interfere with the freewheel or freehub for the chainline, and the axle itself is long enough to still have all the necessary torque-arm hardware on each end underneath the axle nuts and washers on the outboard sides of the dropouts, they'll work fine.

If necessary you can install the torque arm hardware on the inboard side of the dropouts, if it doesn't interfere with the drivetrain on the right or the brake caliper/etc on the left (if you're using disc brakes).
 
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