friendly1uk said:
It is safer cheaper and easier to fit a bms to the pack and buy a proper charger. Nobody can give a reason to do it any other way, yet still people spend more on time consuming kit which is not as safe. Drives me mental...
I'll list the reasons I don't use a bms.
1. If a cell drops below lvc while I'm crossing a busy intersection with cars in both directions doing 50mph the bms will leave me in the middle of the street/highway with me and my bike likely dead forever.
2. My 880wh battery pack cost me $275. I can run/charge as 20ah 12s4p, or in 5 seconds change it to 10ah 24s2p, which I normally run at.
3. My pack is rated for 400A as 12s4p or 200A as 24s2p. A cheap bms as you suggest would limit it severely to 30-80A depending on how cheap.
4. I can charge my pack at 5C or up to 100A, or as little time as 6 minutes. Most cheap bms's are limited to 6A, or about 4 hours minimum for a 20ah pack.
5. All a BMS protects is under voltage and over voltage when charging. In case of thermal runaway, shorts or any of many things that could start a fire, it does absolutely nothing to protect the pack.
6. Cell LVC on every pack I've seen is limited to a max setting of 3.0V, which is way to low for rc lipo, so in reality it doesn't protect for over discharge anyway.
The only thing a bms on a bike does is take up space, lock you into the configuration, and makes it easier to charge. If the other stuff it limits you to doesn't bother you then go for it. Not for me. I rely on myself to monitor battery voltage and have the LVC in my controller set to shut off power before the pack gets too low as a backup.