Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

[opperpanter]

Hello all ...

Thanks for this useful thread.

I just started programming my BBS-HD and there is one thing I don't understand.

I want to be able to use the throttle at all times - without pedal assist. On the basic page I can adjust the "limit current" and "limit speed" at PAS 0.

Sorry for asking but what exactly does these parameters define ? Some have set them both to 1 and others 0 and 100.

What setting do I use if I want 100% throttle at PAS 0?

Thanks in advance.

Michael, Copenhagen

I can't remember exactly how this works, I think there are guides in this topic that explain it in detail.
I will post my settings below, which are just stock settings from em3ev. This gives you full throttle possibility in PAS0.
Please not this is from my BBS02 750W.

I think the trick is in to setting the throttle assist level to 9 and speed limit to by display command on the throttle.
It could be that the speed limit and current on the PAS0 level have to be larger than 0 for this to work, can't remember.

 

[tomjasz]

I think there are guides in this topic that explain it in detail.

http://electric-fatbike.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/

 

[joss]

Wow! I didn't expect that much interest in what I did. I will try to answer all questions.

...one more question/issue

The program window can not be maximized and does not have slider bars. I tried setting different resolutions on my laptop screen but it makes no difference.

 

[tommie]

Wow! I didn't expect that much interest in what I did. I will try to answer all questions.

...one more question/issue

The program window can not be maximized and does not have slider bars. I tried setting different resolutions on my laptop screen but it makes no difference.

Had the same problem with two laptops, in the end had to plug in an external monitor

 

[geofft]

Is it not possible to drag the edges of the configuration software window out to a larger size?

 

[joss]

No - there seems no method to extend the window.

 

[Penoff]

This issue might be caused by the zoom function new Windows versions have. I built it on Windows 10 and it looks just fine.

The reason I removed resizing is there are no resizable element in the window so no point in maximizing it or stretching it. Also it is so small that there is no common monitor it won't fit into. I have a TV that I connect my laptop to. I use it to watch movies. Every time I connect to it Windows automatically enlarges everything. I will try and see how the Bafang Configuration Tool looks in this case and I might have to do something to fix that.

For the one that asked about throttle at PAS0. To do that you need to set both values for PAS0 on Basic tab to 1. Otherwise it won't work. Also make sure it is enabled properly at the Throttle Handle tab. I see you used the old version of the program. If you use mine, there is a file that I use and it works just fine on BBS02 750W, having throttle operating at PAS0.

 

[opperpanter]

Nice penoff. Where did you find the source files?

 

[joss]

Hi Penoff - thanks for your reply - you were right I had a custom zoom set in the display settings. I am on win 10 but I think this is a carry over from the original win 8 which my laptop was delivered with. The screen is a crazy 3200 x1800 and I had down scaled it to 1800 x 1080 so I could see the text. Win 10 seems to have better handling of these hi res displays by creating a changeable zoom. I'm now using the recommended settings and the bafang window is perfect.

 

[Penoff]

There was no issue on my TV with the scaling of Windows 10. That's why I can't change anything because I can't reproduce the issue. I believe it's Windows issue. I've had that before with other programs in Windows XP when it is zoomed.

The source files I found in the zip file on the first page of this thread. It was there all the time. I just saw the file extensions and new those are the actual source code of the program. How that leaked out of Bafang I have no idea.

 

[Spaceball]

Is there any settings that can be changed that will increase the cadence (motor speed) that the power starts to taper off.
I have both my limit speed and keeper current set to 100%.
What would happen if I disconnect the PAS sensor from the controller or would it be based on the hall sensors.

Thanks

Spaceball

 

[joss]

I guess if you disconnect the cadance sensor then the PAS would never engage (because no rotation would be detected)

from penoffs help file...

Start Degree (Signal No.) – This parameter sets how many pulses from the pedal sensor are needed before the motor starts. Full pedal revolution on BBS kits generates 24 pulses. Setting this to 0 or 1 will not work. A value around 4 works well as it doesn’t start with just a small move and also doesn’t require too much rotation.

 

[tomjasz]

http://electric-fatbike.com/bbs02-installation/



To disable the PAS take the controller off by pulling off the left crankarm and the chainwheel and then removing the plastic cover. Remove the 3 hex blots and wiggle the controller off carefully. Find the black connector and peel some of the silicone off of it. Find the thumb release tab, press it and pull the connector apart. Use a tiny screwdriver or screw to push the tab down on the female contact and carefully pull the wire out of the connector. Cover the end of the pin with electrical tape and reassemble the unit. Be careful screwing on the black plastic cover as it is very easy to crack the case from over tightening.

 

[LikeToRideMyBike]

http://electric-fatbike.com/bbs02-installation/



To disable the PAS take the controller off by pulling off the left crankarm and the chainwheel and then removing the plastic cover. Remove the 3 hex blots and wiggle the controller off carefully. Find the black connector and peel some of the silicone off of it. Find the thumb release tab, press it and pull the connector apart. Use a tiny screwdriver or screw to push the tab down on the female contact and carefully pull the wire out of the connector. Cover the end of the pin with electrical tape and reassemble the unit. Be careful screwing on the black plastic cover as it is very easy to crack the case from over tightening.

That's what I did. Full throttle on PAS level 0. Nice!

 

[Spaceball]

But will this allow the motor to spin faster (higher cadence) before the controller starts to limit power?
I currently have a throttle and the PAS connected. Mine is a BBS01 and I also have it limited to low power (6A @ 36V) due to our restrictive laws.
Other option would be to replace the internal controller with an external one.

 

[tomjasz]

But will this allow the motor to spin faster (higher cadence) before the controller starts to limit power?
I currently have a throttle and the PAS connected. Mine is a BBS01 and I also have it limited to low power (6A @ 36V) due to our restrictive laws.
Other option would be to replace the internal controller with an external one.

Is something wrong with your performance?
I've been running two BBS01's using stock EM3ev settings. I think they work fine. Don't read into these threads and start playing engineer unless you are willing to accept consequences of failures. That's my opinion after several thousand miles on two BBS01 350W. It's not a powerhouse. Eternal controllers are another can of worms. I'm sure someone will disagree, but the proof is in my pudding, and long lived motors.

As always, YMMV.

 

[Spaceball]

I am just not happy with where the power tapers off. I normally spin around 90 and in to the high 90s when I want a bit more power. By then the controller has already backed off the power. I am not a grinder and with the extra wide Q-factor of the BBS units it is not good for the knees if you grind with such a wide Q-factor (I am only a skinny guy).
My BBS is setup to deliver 200W assistance at the rear wheel (legal requirements) and I will add another 200-400W depending on the conditions.

 

[tomjasz]

It's a BBS01. Some have put 500W controllers on. But jeez it is only 200W. Not meaning to be sarcastic. Roust up Lurkin. For some good insights.

But isn't it rated for 80RPM at 100%?

 

[Lurkin]

I've never bothered playing with the programming settings. I'm too lazy to be bothered.

I think I get what you want - for the unit to keep applying power as the cadence increases, beyond what it is currently set to. I'd be also thinking about how hot the unit gets if it keeps applying power - just something to keep in mind.

Page five may have the answer... reading the rest of the thread to confirm it before making changes would be a good idea. I'd be researching the current decay setting. Let us know how you go.

Linky link to page 5: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&start=100#p887835

[EDIT] discussed at Page 14 again, may not be such a great idea

Linky Link https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=58780&hilit=bafang+current+decay&start=325#p918482

 

[tomjasz]

Thanks!

 

[Spaceball]

Well a little testing today.
While I am only running 6A current limit at the controller with all the other settings maxed power starts to be limited at about 85 crank RPM.
By around 90 RPM there is no assist. It was the same either using the throttle or PAS.
Not sure if disconnecting the PAS sensor will help. Looks like external controller testing might be the next step.
How about some open source software for the BBS0X, that would be cool.

 

[opperpanter]

I think the unit is designed for this rpm, so I think you'll need higher voltage to get higher rpms.

 

[tomjasz]

I think the unit is designed for this rpm, so I think you'll need higher voltage to get higher rpms.

Exactly. A 500W controller could bring some improvement. But otherwise it is what it is. No amount of programing will change it into a faster drive. IME.

 

[Spaceball]

Will try an external controller first.

 

[deepfraught]

Quick note recommending the Panoff software build and help file, in combination with Karl's compiled blog page.
Got me started quickly after a few other initial issues, it detects the com ports available, I had an issue with Device Manager not showing the Ports (COM and LPT) along with incorrect cable USB driver.
So it was really nice to find a tidy improvement to the software, got the job done now it's testing time!

Hi everyone! I just registered on the forum but I've been reading it since I decided to convert my bicycle to electric.

I see many people reporting about damaged controllers, USB to serial adapters and even PCs. I have some experience as well. I burned my USB to serial adapter on the second connection. Good it was original FTDI chip and it had good protection so my laptop was intact. My first thought was I killed my controller but I started thinking there is some protection in the newly produced controllers. So why does it happen and how to avoid it? If you are using USB adapter with original connector you won't get in trouble. Unfortunately those are sold as "programmers" and are quite overpriced. Therefore people use cheap adapters and some wires. That's where the issue lies. Using wires (even with some tiny connectors at the end) might lead to short circuit between neighboring wires. If the short circuit is to one of the high voltage pins you will kill your USB to serial adapter and possibly your PC and even the controller. There is one pin at the connector which is directly connected to the battery meaning you can have above 50V there (from a fully charged 13S battery). This is more than enough to kill the 5V USB to serial adapter and your PC as both are sate up to 6V and anything above that can be lethal for the device. The same applies for the controller itself. When I killed my adapter I thought the controller is also dead but it wasn't. There is no way of that happening if it didn't have some protection so I suppose something was changed or I was impossibly lucky. So when I changed the FTDI chip on my USB adapter I measured with multimeter for short circuit every time before connecting the battery to avoid further damage. I hope this will help someone else save his equipment.

I also saw the programming software is packed with the full source code so I decided to rewrite it because it was just terrible. I fixed numerous bugs, improved the interface and the English and added small help file. If you are interested you can find it here https://penoff.wordpress.com/2016/01/13/e-bike-conversion-software/