Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

[Tom L]

I wish we had a Jaycar here in the states! I can find that connector anywhere in Southern California.

You should be able to find it on line somewhere. The Amphenol LTW part number is AU-06BFFA-SL7001, http://www.ltw-tech.com/p2-products-detail.php?product_series_sn=12&product_classify_sn=15&sn=694

 

[pjgold]

After today's commute I am very happy with the changes made not only was it the fastest run in to work ever, I did the 46km round trip with plenty of charge to spare and never needed to touch the throttle .
Interestingly these settings are using less power I believe it is because although the power is on more often it is at a much lower level, I was able to cruise along the river for the last part of my ride at a comfortable 35kph with only assist level 2.

 

[ErikDK]

A heads-up for Europeans:
I've just received this USB to TTL converter: http://www.ebay.de/itm/USB-RS232-TTL-UART-PL2303HX-Konverter-Adapter-Kabel-CP12005-F44-/271361620831 I ordered it Wednesday evening.

It was recognized as Profilic USB-to-serial comm port (Com 5) without downloading any new drivers, but I already use other USB-to-serial devices, so others might have to.

 

[Ken Taylor]

I do notice that motor speed does vary with cadence (i.e. higher cadence, more motor speed)

The two are mechanically locked together.

Only on Panasonic mid motors can the ratio be changed by changing the motor sprocket.

Yes of course - I meant power level.

With the pedals free wheeling you should be able to get any cadence up to the motor speed. On a test stand you can can rotate the pedals faster or slower and look at motor speed. Was it different to that?

 

[ErikDK]

With the pedals free wheeling you should be able to get any cadence up to the motor speed. On a test stand you can can rotate the pedals faster or slower and look at motor speed. Was it different to that?

If you pedal slower than the motor spins the chainring, the motor is doing all the work.
If you pedal faster than the motor spins the chainring, you are doing all the work.

On a Panasonic mid-drive, the motor has a 9-14T sprocket pulling the chain at a certain max rpm and the chainring only transfers the power from the pedals working on the crank.
By varying the ratio of chainring teeth to motor sprocket teeth, you can change the cadence, since the Panasonic controller doesn't monitor crank rpm, only the torque applied by the rider.

 

[mushymelon]

With the pedals free wheeling you should be able to get any cadence up to the motor speed. On a test stand you can can rotate the pedals faster or slower and look at motor speed. Was it different to that?

If you pedal slower than the motor spins the chainring, the motor is doing all the work.
If you pedal faster than the motor spins the chainring, you are doing all the work.

On a Panasonic mid-drive, the motor has a 9-14T sprocket pulling the chain at a certain max rpm and the chainring only transfers the power from the pedals working on the crank.
By varying the ratio of chainring teeth to motor sprocket teeth, you can change the cadence, since the Panasonic controller doesn't monitor crank rpm, only the torque applied by the rider.

I don't think this is what he meant.

I believe he was asking when freewheeling at different pedal speeds without adding power through the crank does the motor speed or power increase with cadence.

 

[Somebodystopme!!]

This plug looks promising. I haven't found any data on the exact diameter of the plug but the pin outlooks to be the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/mini-xlr-6-pin-female-Audio-Microphone-connector-TA6F-/351058696978?pt=US_Computer_Microphones&hash=item51bcba9b12

6-pin mini xlr connector. The metal shield will most likely need to be removed in order to work. I'll find out when my plug arrives.

Also, cross your fingers, I have my Chinese contact checking on 25 connectors and 25 bafang original programming cables.

If he comes through with the actual cables I'll let everyone know and sell them at cost. Cross your fingers....

 

[Kepler]

Yes it might work once the metal outer is removed. I needed to be so careful turning down the plug I am using due the pins being so close to edge.(sorry about the rubbish photo)

 

[eugen]

This plug looks promising. I haven't found any data on the exact diameter of the plug but the pin outlooks to be the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/mini-xlr-6-pin-female-Audio-Microphone-connector-TA6F-/351058696978?pt=US_Computer_Microphones&hash=item51bcba9b12

6-pin mini xlr connector. The metal shield will most likely need to be removed in order to work. I'll find out when my plug arrives.

Also, cross your fingers, I have my Chinese contact checking on 25 connectors and 25 bafang original programming cables.

If he comes through with the actual cables I'll let everyone know and sell them at cost. Cross your fingers....

i just order one of this what you found
will see in one month what ill receive

 

[Ken Taylor]

I believe he was asking when freewheeling at different pedal speeds without adding power through the crank does the motor speed or power increase with cadence.

Yes that was it, but thinking about it more, it seems that because the motor produces very little power when unloaded there might be no change in speed or only a change in speed when there is a very large difference between pedal and motor speed.

I'm not sure how you would observe a power difference on a test stand that doesn't load the motor. I test motors on a Kurt Kinetic, which isn't as flexible to use as a dynamometer, but does load the motor. With this sort of test stand you should see a noticeable effect on speed of changing pedal cadence if the parameter produces the behaviour I speculated.

 

[pjgold]

The Current Decay appears to be the setting that holds the power higher in the RPM range, the higher it is set the higher the RPM before the power dies off.
I found I like this setting up high as it smooths out the drives power range in each gear.

 

[Arvicola Terrestris]

After unsuccessfully searching for a plug to modify and connect to the controller. That also is available to me in Denmark, which means an European shop or ebay. I have got the idea of replacing the existing plug with a new waterproof type. More work but it will definitely work.

Do I miss something?
Or have somebody in Europa found a supplier for the plug?

I searched ebay for "6 pin waterproof connector" and found these candidates:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-4-LED-Li...al_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2c79171f70

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IP68-Waterp...622?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3a29dd6e

 

[mushymelon]

I believe he was asking when freewheeling at different pedal speeds without adding power through the crank does the motor speed or power increase with cadence.

Yes that was it, but thinking about it more, it seems that because the motor produces very little power when unloaded there might be no change in speed or only a change in speed when there is a very large difference between pedal and motor speed.

I'm not sure how you would observe a power difference on a test stand that doesn't load the motor. I test motors on a Kurt Kinetic, which isn't as flexible to use as a dynamometer, but does load the motor. With this sort of test stand you should see a noticeable effect on speed of changing pedal cadence if the parameter produces the behaviour I speculated.

I guess you could remove the chain and turn up the assist all the way. With a good watt meter should get some info.

 

[tomjasz]

I'm about to pull the pin on number two BBS01-2, but haven't developed the skill for configuring a program cable. Someone sell one or have an instructable with directions for dummies. Please?

 

[dumbass]

I believe he was asking when freewheeling at different pedal speeds without adding power through the crank does the motor speed or power increase with cadence.

Yes that was it, but thinking about it more, it seems that because the motor produces very little power when unloaded there might be no change in speed or only a change in speed when there is a very large difference between pedal and motor speed.

I'm not sure how you would observe a power difference on a test stand that doesn't load the motor. I test motors on a Kurt Kinetic, which isn't as flexible to use as a dynamometer, but does load the motor. With this sort of test stand you should see a noticeable effect on speed of changing pedal cadence if the parameter produces the behaviour I speculated.

I guess you could remove the chain and turn up the assist all the way. With a good watt meter should get some info.

The problem is the wheel sensor needs to see the wheel turning or it kills the motor automatically. So you would need to hand spin the rear wheel. This is what I had to do while doing my bench testing.

Bob

 

[dumbass]

I'm about to pull the pin on number two BBS01-2, but haven't developed the skill for configuring a program cable. Someone sell one or have an instructable with directions for dummies. Please?

I too am hoping someone on the forum will come up with a simple P&P cable and sure fire download program for us more "challenged". Most of us are going to eventually want to do some kind of tweaking on the program but just don't feel comfy diving into it with unknown patch cables. In my case I can't or don't peddle hardly at all. So for me the "0" setting = fully controlled throttle would be perfect. Then it would run like any other setup.

So somebody save us....please

Bob

 

[tomjasz]

I'm about to pull the pin on number two BBS01-2, but haven't developed the skill for configuring a program cable. Someone sell one or have an instructable with directions for dummies. Please?

I too am hoping someone on the forum will come up with a simple P&P cable and sure fire download program for us more "challenged". Most of us are going to eventually want to do some kind of tweaking on the program but just don't feel comfy diving into it with unknown patch cables. In my case I can't or don't peddle hardly at all. So for me the "0" setting = fully controlled throttle would be perfect. Then it would run like any other setup.

So somebody save us....please

Bob

Yeah folks, Able the Disabled, old farts need cables too!

 

[dirkdiggler]

The problem is the wheel sensor needs to see the wheel turning or it kills the motor automatically. So you would need to hand spin the rear wheel. This is what I had to do while doing my bench testing.

Bob

My speed sensor has been broken since after the first few rides. It still works, just shows error 21. Don't know why yours would kill the motor automatically. I need to get mine fixed, but it entails opening everything up and resoldering wires. I would love to have it working correctly though.

 

[dumbass]

The problem is the wheel sensor needs to see the wheel turning or it kills the motor automatically. So you would need to hand spin the rear wheel. This is what I had to do while doing my bench testing.

Bob

My speed sensor has been broken since after the first few rides. It still works, just shows error 21. Don't know why yours would kill the motor automatically. I need to get mine fixed, but it entails opening everything up and resoldering wires. I would love to have it working correctly though.

Good Question. I also got the ERR 21 but the motor also turned off. Maybe a difference in the vintage. I am remounting batt. packs and will retest when finished.

 

[Kepler]

I'm about to pull the pin on number two BBS01-2, but haven't developed the skill for configuring a program cable. Someone sell one or have an instructable with directions for dummies. Please?

I too am hoping someone on the forum will come up with a simple P&P cable and sure fire download program for us more "challenged". Most of us are going to eventually want to do some kind of tweaking on the program but just don't feel comfy diving into it with unknown patch cables. In my case I can't or don't peddle hardly at all. So for me the "0" setting = fully controlled throttle would be perfect. Then it would run like any other setup.

So somebody save us....please

Bob

Problem is, as it stands, its a time consuming process to make a plug and play cable with what we currently have available. Although there are cheap USB-TTL converters out there that will work, I used this one from Grin http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/ca-accessories/cables/ca-usb.html. It is a quality adapter with full driver support right up to the the latest Windows 8.1. I know that Justin went through a lot of testing before selecting this cable for programing the CA3's.

For the adapter plug from Jaycar, these cost $15 then I have about an hours work to assemble the cable including time on the lathe carefully turning the diameter down to suit.

So for me to make it, you are now looking at a $50 adapter plug plus you still need to buy the $18 USB-TTL converter from Grin.

Anyway, that's the plug and play option. Not cheap and to be honest $50 isn't really worth my while for the amount work involved.

 

[teslanv]

I think one could plug individual female leads onto the pins of the connector, and then hot glue them all as a bunch to make them into a single plug. - You would need to be careful not to permanently hot glue them to the Bafang connector and to be able to reregister them in the proper pin positions again, however.

Does what I just wrote make any sense?

 

[Somebodystopme!!]

I think one could plug individual female leads onto the pins of the connector, and then hot glue them all as a bunch to make them into a single plug. - You would need to be careful not to permanently hot glue them to the Bafang connector and to be able to reregister them in the proper pin positions again, however.

Does what I just wrote make any sense?

I think you have something there!

 

[mushymelon]

I think one could plug individual female leads onto the pins of the connector, and then hot glue them all as a bunch to make them into a single plug. - You would need to be careful not to permanently hot glue them to the Bafang connector and to be able to reregister them in the proper pin positions again, however.

Does what I just wrote make any sense?

I was thinking the same thing sorta.

I don't think using the original connector is the best bet. I was thinking of using some clay or something soft to make an impression of the original female connector. Using bare female/pins the ones you crimp on, bury them in the imprinted clay as deep as they would go into the connector then find a paper or plastic tube that has the same diameter as the connector, centre it over the pins and fill it with epoxy .

I will probably shrink tube the pins first so the epoxy doesn't leech inside the connectors.

Does this make sense?

 

[mushymelon]

Are these the ttl adapters we need to program this unit and if so why are people paying $15-$20 dollars for them?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&_sacat=0&_from=R40

 

[Somebodystopme!!]

Are these the ttl adapters we need to program this unit and if so why are people paying $15-$20 dollars for them?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=usb+to+ttl+converter&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Convenience. The $15 ones are local and don't have to be ordered. You will almost always pay more to buy from a local brick n mortar.