Punctured tire prevention?

SamTexas

1 MW
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
2,712
Location
Houston, Texas
I just walked my bike home. 3 miles under the noon sun was certainly not something I want to do again.

So how do you prevent punctured tires? What works for you, what does not work for you?

Do Slime self sealing tubes really work?
 
I use Maxxis hookworm tires which have an exxonpro liner in them. I supplement them with panaracer Kevlar liners (2 side by side in front, one on the back tire). Then I use a Kenda downhill tube with 2.25mm thick walls. Knock on wood, but I have easily over 20k on ebikes without a flat. This is suburban riding withe typical glass/metal/pothole hazards - your terrain may have hazards I haven't encountered, dogman seems to ride rough terrain a lot and may have other suggestions.

-JD
 
I thought that puncture proof tubes were the answer until I had a flat this summer. Seems the glass worked its way thru the (at least) 1 cm (half an inch) and blew the air out. I was luck because the guy that drove me home said that he would bet it was glass as he had the same problem. His suggestion was more tread so the glass would not get a chance to penetrate. Anyway - now I carry a small pump and patches and use a regular tube (you can't patch a puncture free tube easily). I bought a new kevlar tire with lots of tread depth. And thanks to the guy that drove me seven miles home...
 
High quality kevlar-belted tires (Schwalbe Big Apples in my case) plus the extra thick thorn-proof tubes. I haven't had a puncture in over two years and I ride about 80 miles per week on city streets.

About the slime tubes - in my experience, they don't work and they are impossible to patch when you do get a flat.

Another important thing is to make sure the tubes are the correct size for the tire. In the last two weeks, I've seen three friends get blowouts from putting 1.9" tubes in their 2.125" tires, or even 2.125" tubes in a 2.3" tire. Overstretching the tube is just a blowout waiting to happen.
 
Schwalbe Maraton Plus tires are closest thing to being "puncture proof". I have 3 sets. and between them they have 20,000 KM NO FLATS
 
Motorcycle tires.
 
I've got the same problem. I've had probably over a dozen flats in the past few months always on the front tire where my hub motor is. I've got a box full of old tubes sitting around. My patches only seem to last a short time before I get another flat. So I'm often going out and buying another tube. I'd rather spend the money on a good quality tire with a Kevlar lining to prevent flats as much as possible. Those self sealing tubes did prolong the time between flats for me but in the end it went flat too. Also those tubes made my ride unbalanced with the slime flying around the wheel.
 
Slime didn't work for me.

I just had a flat yesterday. My combo was Michelin C6 downhill racing MTB tubes, Stan's no tubes sealant, kevlar liner, extra liner cut from an old inner-tube. Had ridden about 100 miles on that before my flat. Prior to that, I rode 1000 miles with no flat on standard tube/tire/no liner/no sealant. Go figure. Last night I ordered 2 Specialized Crossroads Armadillo tires. Hopefully with that, and my previous combo, I'll be bullet-proof.
 
What are you saying? Use Cyclops? Use 20psi? As I stated in my post (which is also in your link) the stans didn't work. The liner didn't work. Bigger tires didn't work.
 
I had a ton of flats on my electric wheel. I think part of it is that it needed to be tensioned. I installed a heavy duty rim tape, a THICK heavy tube from my LBS, kevlar lined tires, and had them professionally tensioned. No problems so far.

Slime was horrible. I have an SLA battery pack on a rear rack and a direct drive motor. The slime would force itself into the valve and basically any time I tried to inflate the tube it would clog the valve and destroy the tube. Never again.
 
In this thread it seems I am the only one that likes those thick slime tubes so far. I don't notice a balance problem, but also seldom see 30 MPH (when coasting down hill) and otherwise don't exceed 20 MPH.

My experience was on a ride where someone threw a bunch of tacks out. Many flats. One friend had to change three tubes on a two wheel bike. I picked up two tacks on a front tire of the trike, pulled the tacks out, saw a little green goo, didn't lose any air, and rode on that tire/tube for the next six months.
 
auraslip said:

The only problem with running large tires at such a low PSI is they are dangerous in high speed turns, ok really any turn at any kind of speed. They will fold in on themselves causing the rider to lay the bike down. Trust me, this does happen and does suck!
 
auto_bike said:
The slime would force itself into the valve and basically any time I tried to inflate the tube it would clog the valve and destroy the tube.
What exactly happened to the tube? Because if the Slime clogged the valve all you'd need to do is use a valve core remover tool to unscrew it, wash it off, and put it back in and it'd be fine.

The Slime tubes come with a plastic version of this as the valve cap, although my luck with those plastic caps is that by the time I actually need to use one they've been damaged by teh intense heat and sunlight (UV) here in Phoenix, since it can be years, leading to me not bothering with them, and instead keeping an old old metal valve cap with remover tip in my toolkit. But even needlenose pliers or a small enough flatblade screwdriver will work to unscrew a jammed/clogged core.

That said, the only times I ever had Slime clog a valve core were when I A) overfilled the tube with more than I should have, and/or B) tried inflating the tire with the valve stem at the bottom, instead of rotating it to the top like the Slime instructions had told me to (but I didn't actually read those until some time after I had the problem :roll: :lol:).


@Rassy: I also like those thick Slime tubes, but I don't just use the regular Slime--I use the stuff with rubber chunks in it that's meant for tubeless tires, as it fills larger holes, and has saved me from a walk home when the puncture was large enough the regular stuff wouldn't ahve worked. Because of the weight of my SLA friction drive on DayGlo Avenger at the time, I had to keep stopping and adding more air, because even though the puncure in even the TIRE was sealed by the rubber+slime they use in that, the air kept leaking thru the nipple holes and valve stem hole. But it did work, whereas not having the slime at all would've left me walking 80lbs+ of bike home, plus all the cargo I had on it (at least 30-40lbs).


But what I really like to use are the Slime protector strips. I have only had one failure, and Slime company cheerfully replaced BOTH strips on the bike under warranty, AND sent me new tubes, too (the thick thorn-resistant kind). The failure was a roofing nail that must've been directly beneath DayGlo Avenger (with the SLA and friction drive above) on the rear tire, perfectly centered, and it went thru the tire, the liner, the tube and dented the rim, too. Considering how many other unavoidable roofing nails off the back of the truck in front of me *didn't* make it thru that liner at the same time, in the same spot of road, or thru the front tire, I'm not unsatisified with the liner's performance, really. :lol:

FWIW, I'm still using the failed strip and the other non-failed replaced strip on various test-bike wheels, and haven't had another puncture thru either one; it's been 2-3 years or more now; I forget exactly. Might be more.


The only problem I have with flats these days is when the valve stems herniate and rupture, at or near the brass/rubber interface. :roll: Pretty sure it wouldn't happen if I didn't have such heavy bikes, or carry heavy cargo on them (or keep reusing old tubes that most people would've (or did!) retired years ago, from necessity).


Keep in mind that the tires I use are also just whatever I happen to get on junk bikes, for the most part. Once in a while I get one "new" from someone that replaces what came on their bike, and would just toss the originals, but it's rare that they will fit anything I have (usually they're 700C or 29, or other skinny roadbike tires, etc).

So they're the thin cheap stuff...but I expect in my heavy cargo bike usage (or that on any other heavy ebike) that just about no bicycle-class tire will really hold up, by itself, to the stuff on Phoenix/Valley roads and paths, without liners and/or Slime or something.

About the only tire/tube I have ever tried that would survive no matter what is "airless" ones, that are "solid" foam/rubber. And unless you like squishy mushy riding (assuming a heavy bike), they kinda suck, and sorta always feel like I'm riding on a low tire. I don't know how much efficiency they waste, but when I get the one currently on the back of DayGlo Avenger on a new non-destroyed wheel, I'll test that out, vs a regular tube in the same tire at my usual 60PSI, if I can.
 
Been searching the Internet for "HOT patches", for quite a while. Don't seem to be any available anymore. :roll: :roll: :roll:

Too damn much "pay to get things done" going on. :roll: :roll:

Down here, the glue in the patch kits does not stick worth a damn, and, the patches rip as well as the tubes. I notice the tubes feel more "Oily" than what I remember, in the States.

Give me a small Hot patch kit and lets get on with the ride.
 
Harold in CR said:
Been searching the Internet for "HOT patches", for quite a while. Don't seem to be any available anymore. :roll: :roll: :roll:

Too damn much "pay to get things done" going on. :roll: :roll:

Down here, the glue in the patch kits does not stick worth a damn, and, the patches rip as well as the tubes. I notice the tubes feel more "Oily" than what I remember, in the States.

Give me a small Hot patch kit and lets get on with the ride.

I picked up a Slime brand classic tube patch kit at auto parts store and already used it a few times this month due to some asshole dropping brass tacks along the bridge bike lane. At 1st I thought it was coincidence but not anymore - way too many flats for all bicycles on this route.

Anyway, once I rough the rubber and smear the glue I torch it with a lighter and let it burn off the excess. Stick the patch in place, press or clamp for a few minutes and it seems to bond/vulcanize very well. Dunno if that's what you mean about HOT patch but it's close enough for me.

btw - I'm running Cyclops with thick downhill tubes in the rear and 3-4oz of Slime. It's not flat proof but it actually handles glass pretty well. For nails, staples & tacks Slime usually help's get me back to my apt. But I've gotten pretty good patching the tube while still on the bike which makes a roadside repair much easier.
 
so you put that stans sealant stuff inside your tubes? how?

Remove valve stem, and pour it in. Easy, but can be messy.

The only problem with running large tires at such a low PSI is they are dangerous in high speed turns, ok really any turn at any kind of speed. They will fold in on themselves causing the rider to lay the bike down. Trust me, this does happen and does suck!

I've never had this happen, but then I usually run at around 30-40psi on the back, and 25-30psi on the front. 20psi is too bouncy.

What are you saying? Use Cyclops? Use 20psi? As I stated in my post (which is also in your link) the stans didn't work. The liner didn't work. Bigger tires didn't work.
I just had a flat yesterday. My combo was Michelin C6 downhill racing MTB tubes, Stan's no tubes sealant, kevlar liner, extra liner cut from an old inner-tube. Had ridden about 100 miles on that before my flat.

Ok, this needs to be said; those tire liners CAN give you flats if not installed properly. Especially the SLIME tire liners. The edges on the sides can dig into the tube if not installed center. The edges on the ends of the SLIME tire liners CAN and WILL dig into the tubes causing eventual flats. To remedy this, I use elmers glue or a bit of duct tape to hold the liner in the center of the tire while installing the tube. If you already have slime liners, sand the ends down so they're not sharp and then wrap them in duct tape.

What type of flat did you get?

WRT to patches: I've found the glue on type VERY hit or miss. What I have had surprisingly good luck with are "scabs" or stick on types. You just need to clean the affected area, ruff it up with an abrasive, and stick them on. It's not so much the glue that holds them on, but the pressure against the tire itself. These are great for small holes, but not worth trying it on anything too large. To be honest though, if a hole is bigger than a small nail it's probably best to just trash the tube. They're only $4 anyways (well the DH tubes I use are more like $10)

As I said, I've gone 9,750 miles with out a flat now, but I still carry a pump, the patch kit, and the tools to undo the hub motor. To be honest I actually have had two flats in the past year; one was on the side wall from glass (a huge gash!) and the other actually came from the rim strip breaking and the a spoke pushing into the tube from the inside. Not much I could do about those, and they're not really typical flats so I don't include them. But for sure a pump and a patch kit or a spare tube is definitely a great idea for things you can't predict(like drunks with knives or vindictive exes). At the very least a pump will get you home in 90% of the time if you have tire sealant.
 
Yeah, burning the excess solvents out of the glue before placing the patch is an old trick.

What I'm calling hot patches, are, a small metal diamond shape with the patch on the outside on the bottom. The inside of the metal piece has an ignitable fuel that smolders and heats the patch to actually nearly vulcanize the patch to the tire. There was a small clamp with screw down spider, that sat over the metal piece and under the tube, and put pressure on the patch. Whole thing would fit in the palm of your hand. I've used that system a LOT through the years.

Maybe I (WE) need to get Miles to teach some of us HOW to do searches. I stink badly doing searches. :roll: :roll: :oops:
 
Maybe I (WE) need to get Miles to teach some of us HOW to do searches. I stink badly doing searches.

See that google tool bar at the top of your browser? Type "site:http://endless-sphere.com I'm tyred of flat tyres" into it. Once you do a few searches like that all you need to do is type "s" in the search bar, and it'll come up.
 
The flat I got Wednesday was a pencil sized hole at about a 45 degree angle from the top (road surface) of the tube. Seemingly, just enough of an angle to miss the kevlar liner. I thought maybe the liner caused it, BUT it was a round (slightly jagged) hole. Stan's didn't seal it. I patched the tube since it is (was) a brand new Michelin C6 downhill racing tube (1.2mm thick). I had the original Bontrager LT3 tires on there. They seem a bit flimsy/thin, so I've got the Armadillos on the way now.
 
OK. Thanks. That is great for ES site stuff. How about the rest of the Internet ? I usually put in exactly what I am looking for, and, get lots of unrelated stuff, some of the time.
 
Wow, you must really ride though some rough terrain Itchy! :shock:

Hope the kevlar tires help!

The last flat I have had was close to 2 or 3 years ago I think? It was using just cheapo $15 medium sized "street knobby" tires on my first E-Bike, and I had been using the "Stop Flats 2" brand tire liners with the guarantee (replace your liners & tubes if you get a flat) and I managed to pick up a smaller diameter nail straight through the center of the tire & liner that poked out the side wall rubbing against the rim brake! (that was the only way I knew there was a problem) This was following a nasty section of heavily traveled Hwy (only bridge to cross into Newberg) and they replaced my tube & liners as advertised.

Since I have started using panracers & similar kevlar belted tires, I haven't really had a problem on 700c or 26in. tires. I currently have Schwalbe Big Apples on my 'bent (same tires on my Tidal Force bike) even hitting unexpected "curb" like 4 inch high 45% "ramps" at about 23 MPH fully loaded for my last tour and a few unseen pot holes on paved logging roads (approximately 330lbs of bike, rider and gear) I haven't had any trouble. I run my Big Apples at 60-65lbs which is the maximum for these tires, and on most commutes into Portland, I take 99E (McLoughlin Blvd.) and regularly run over glass and other such things with out fear of a flat.
 
Harold in CR said:
OK. Thanks. That is great for ES site stuff. How about the rest of the Internet ? I usually put in exactly what I am looking for, and, get lots of unrelated stuff, some of the time.

Try making your search less specific, for example, instead of saying something like "Hot Patches" maybe just "tire repair" and then I like to do a "ctrl f" search to look for highlighted words in the stuff that google finds, like you might do the ctrl-f and type in "bicycle" or "hot" etc.
 
LI-ghtcycle said:
Wow, you must really ride though some rough terrain Itchy! :shock:

Hope the kevlar tires help!

Not really. At this particular spot, I was on Highway 51 (a 55mph zone) riding the 2 foot paved shoulder which occasionally has gravel on it. Most of my riding is smoothly paved (90%), but sometimes I like to go on dirt/gravelly bike trails. I do carry a spare kit with me, but it would be a major pain to change a flat in the field. On this instance, I put my weight over the front tire, and fish tailed about a 1/2 mile home with a flat rear.
 
Back
Top