Quick disconnect for phase wires

[calab]

Have enough slack to be able to take the hub motor off and change a tube.
There is no real need to have a connector on the phase wires other then changing a tube/tire.
I've done it and still doing it with phase and throttle but of course not the battery as they are xt90's.

If you want a solid conduction path, why use a line break at all? The motor comes with an unbroken wire with lugs.

 

[Eastwood]

Waterproof is the key, I listed some near the bottom but they are bulky.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Anderson&utm_term=anderson%20power%20connectors&utm_content=Anderson%20Power%20Connector#?specs=314

Fancy little handles that take up no space whatsoever. :wink:

PP180's look good for 180a
You could parallel them if need be, that is always an option and is done in certain pcb trace designs to gain amperage capacities.

8mm bullets - https://www.progressiverc.com/products/8mm-bullet-connectors
ditto https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=hh-cas-cc_bullet_8.0mm

Amass 7mm - https://www.arrishobby.com/products/amass-as150-connectors-anti-spark-7mm-gold-bullet-as150-male-female-connector?VariantsId=13802

https://www.cnconnectors.com/portfolio-item/200a-3000v-dc-high-voltage-connector-plug-2

http://www.iconnector-tech.com/

waterproof

Anderson PowerPole has a bigass connector for 6 ga. SB350 google it

Yeah I like these bullet connectors but they’re only rated for 300 A. I’m trying to find some bullet connectors that would handle 550 phase amps. Running these connectors in parallel would be way too much, too bulky.

 

[Eastwood]

Beats me why it needs to be waterproof. Halls yes, but not the phases. You won't want salt water in the plug, but fresh won't be as big a deal.

An RC hobby bullet will not need to be floating at the back, so the housing can get sealed at the back. Then a bit of tape can seal off the crack where the male and female come together.

To handle higher current, six of them, instead of three, if you can't find any big enough for your needs.

Or, your big ass andersons could connect inside some kind of water resisting box. Or, you could just locate the connector on top of a fender of some kind, but under your ass and the seat.

Well they don’t have to be waterproof, would just prefer if they were. Being that I ride hard Enduro I actually ride through creek beds mud puddles etc. This bike get wet on a regular basis from heavy off-road use.

 

[999zip999]

Salamander

 

[Eastwood]

Omg. I cannot imagine having those big thangs on my swingarm. Lol. Then three of them? Six total? Lol. it will be like starpping a hoagie to the swinger.

I am just using gold XT150 or an EC5. Then covered with heat shrink permanently, to be replaced whenever removed. . They will coconut all the current the wire can handle.

If you want a solid conduction path, why use a line break at all? The motor comes with an unbroken wire with lugs.

But hoagies are good :lol:
But yeah I would never use six connectors on the side of my swingarm I will just cancel the idea before I went that route. I need this to look clean and be functional.

The reason I’m using line break as I mentioned above in the original post is I have two different hub motors that I will be switching frequently. They’re both QS205 and one will have a street tire and then the other motor is for off-road use/enduro. I mainly use this bike as a dirtbike but I do like to ride on the streets some times.

Using off-road knobby tires do not last on the street, Plus there’s no traction. So that’s why I have the idea since I have two motors is to set one up for street use and the other one for off-road use.

 

[Eastwood]

Have enough slack to be able to take the hub motor off and change a tube.
There is no real need to have a connector on the phase wires other then changing a tube/tire.
I've done it and still doing it with phase and throttle but of course not the battery as they are xt90's

Well as I mentioned in my last reply this is about changing hub motors frequently it has nothing to do with changing tires. For me it’s not that big of a deal to change the tire while the motor/rim is still connected to the controller.
So yeah to be clear I’m trying to create a quick connect/disconnect to be able to change hub motors quickly and frequently

 

[Eastwood]

So what are your guys thoughts on this connector? I mean it’s rated for 500 A but the output of welders at that current is about 40 V so that’s what the connector is rated for 40-ish volts.

But that’s pertaining to welders I don’t think it would matter in my situation right? My voltage as of now fully charge is 84 V but I plan to build a higher voltage pack when this battery starts to die off.

500A Welding Cable Quick Connector Set Camlock Style Male&Female for 3/0-4/0 Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KG2N6GP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NYS224NB90PJ124A758V

 

[999zip999]

With wires short is the best.

 

[calab]

Those are welding cable connectors which will suit your ampacity needs.
Plentiful available Anywhere, USA

 

[larsb]

Yeah I like these bullet connectors but they’re only rated for 300 A. I’m trying to find some bullet connectors that would handle 550 phase amps.

For the type of riding that you describe an 8mm bullet would work. I’ve run the smaller xt150 connectors at 400A max for years without issue. I’ve also run dielectric grease filled xt150’s on my efoil in salt water for about two years so you really don’t need waterproof ones even though you ride mx :wink:

 

[dogman dan]

Ok, I understand. I just wondered if you were planning on a bike to ride below the tide line, or had that much salt on the roads in winter.

I still think double up some large RC bullets will do er for you. And again, don't put the connection where it gets sprayed by the wheel. I liked putting both the controller and all the connectors between my ass and a home made fender.

 

[Eastwood]

So I ordered one of these welding connectors just to see the size and weight. Yeah screw this idea they are so heavy and really big :lol:
just one of these connector feels like it weighs about 3 pounds :lol: definitely will return this!

 

[Eastwood]

For the type of riding that you describe an 8mm bullet would work. I’ve run the smaller xt150 connectors at 400A max for years without issue. I’ve also run dielectric grease filled xt150’s on my efoil in salt water for about two years so you really don’t need waterproof ones even though you ride mx :wink:

Yeah I’m leaning toward using the 8 mm bullet connectors. I’m glad to hear you are running the XT 150 connectors at 400 max with no issues :thumb:
Guess I will give some 8 mm bullet connectors a try. I normally have my phase amp set to 350 when doing trail or Enduro riding and only have the phase amps turned up higher when drag racing which is only for a short period.

Check out these bullet connectors they actually come with A insulated sleeve.

5 Pairs EC8 Connector with 8mm Gold Bullet Plug Male Female Banana Plug Connector for RC ESC Motor LIPO Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083FLLHDF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FB6CCT4RCJ39Y9X05RQN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Eastwood]

Ok, I understand. I just wondered if you were planning on a bike to ride below the tide line, or had that much salt on the roads in winter.

I still think double up some large RC bullets will do er for you. And again, don't put the connection where it gets sprayed by the wheel. I liked putting both the controller and all the connectors between my ass and a home made fender.

No I don’t ride below the tide level and I don’t deal with much salt, just lots of water and mud. Although I’m trying to stay off the trails when they’re too muddy.

Yeah I would like to put the connector under the seat but with my Enduro frame would like to keep them at the end of the swing or near the axle so I can take the back wheel off without cutting zip ties. I might use the ones I posted above that have the protective insulated sleeve, then just fill the backside with some waterproof silicone and use gorilla tape to tape where the two connections come together.

But I might try to just use one bullet connector per phase wire instead of doing parallel. I’m trying to keep this clean looking and not so bulky. Also as mentioned I normally keep the max phase amps at 350 and only turn it up past that when I’m doing drag racing which is for a really short period. So maybe the single bullet connector that’s rated for 300A can handle the 500A for a brief period? :?

 

[larsb]

Sure it will :thumb:

 

[999zip999]

That's the way I would go . Rrmember to get your hand out as JohnCr would do and feel the connections .

 

[dogman dan]

I went to little velcro wraps on my dirt bike for the motor wires. I was replacing tubes on it every 3 months, riding like mad through mesquite thorn desert. Part of why I just said f it, and bought a gas dirt bike for that stuff. Now its more like change the tubes annually when I change tires.

Sure is a lot harder to pick that thing up when I crash though, than the e bike was.

 

[E-HP]

I went to little velcro wraps on my dirt bike for the motor wires. I was replacing tubes on it every 3 months, riding like mad through mesquite thorn desert. Part of why I just said f it, and bought a gas dirt bike for that stuff. Now its more like change the tubes annually when I change tires.

Sure is a lot harder to pick that thing up when I crash though, than the e bike was.

My best interim solution so far are velcro chainstay protectors. If you get the ones that stretch (lycra), you can use one, or two if one isn't big enough for the cables, but one works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Guards-Mountain-Protector-Lightweight-Accessories/dp/B08C5CBY9Q/ref=sr_1_13?crid=233GPHJ86F6TI&keywords=chainstay+protector+velcro&qid=1648226239&sprefix=chainstay+protector+velcro%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-13


My plan for adding connectors at the chainstay, for easier maintenance, is to use the XT150 connectors without the housings, and just use shrink wrap instead to keep things more compact, then bundle the three together, so of like a 3 conductor MT-60. I'll add a little electrical tape at the joints, that I would replace after maintenance. Won't be waterproof, but enough to prevent a phase-phase/phase-ground short, unless it gets totally submerged. I don't ride in the rain or cross streams, but do ride in mud.

 

[Eastwood]

I went to little velcro wraps on my dirt bike for the motor wires. I was replacing tubes on it every 3 months, riding like mad through mesquite thorn desert. Part of why I just said f it, and bought a gas dirt bike for that stuff. Now its more like change the tubes annually when I change tires.

Sure is a lot harder to pick that thing up when I crash though, than the e bike was.

Yeah I considered getting a gas dirt bike again but just love ebikes more. No gears no throttle less maintenance. My favorite thing ebikes is the instant torque without having to raise the RPMs of a combustion engine. But don’t get me wrong I still love some gas dirt bikes as well, just haven’t owned one in several years. It’s funny all the people I ride with have turbo side x sides and ATV’s and I’m the weirdo on an electric bike :lol:

 

[Eastwood]

I went to little velcro wraps on my dirt bike for the motor wires. I was replacing tubes on it every 3 months, riding like mad through mesquite thorn desert. Part of why I just said f it, and bought a gas dirt bike for that stuff. Now its more like change the tubes annually when I change tires.

Sure is a lot harder to pick that thing up when I crash though, than the e bike was.

My best interim solution so far are velcro chainstay protectors. If you get the ones that stretch (lycra), you can use one, or two if one isn't big enough for the cables, but one works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Guards-Mountain-Protector-Lightweight-Accessories/dp/B08C5CBY9Q/ref=sr_1_13?crid=233GPHJ86F6TI&keywords=chainstay+protector+velcro&qid=1648226239&sprefix=chainstay+protector+velcro%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-13
Chainstay.jpg

My plan for adding connectors at the chainstay, for easier maintenance, is to use the XT150 connectors without the housings, and just use shrink wrap instead to keep things more compact, then bundle the three together, so of like a 3 conductor MT-60. I'll add a little electrical tape at the joints, that I would replace after maintenance. Won't be waterproof, but enough to prevent a phase-phase/phase-ground short, unless it gets totally submerged. I don't ride in the rain or cross streams, but do ride in mud.

Thanks for the link, Amazon has everything :thumb:
Yeah that’s a good idea to keep your connections compact with removing the housing. I would consider doing something like that and just using heat shrink but in my situation plan to be switching motors frequently so it would get annoying to have to re-heat shrink everything. I’ll probably just use electrical tape to seal up everything except on the ends of the connectors i’ll use some silicone. I’ll post some pictures below of the M8 bullets I received

 

[Eastwood]

So here are some pictures of the M8 bullet connectors with the housing. As of now I plan to use 4AWG wire from the controller to the swingarm that connects to the bullet connectors. Then for the wires going into the hub motor I’ll probably just keep the stock wires. It’s interesting the new QS205 V3TI actually comes with flat phase wire so they’re much more compact. The phase wires feel much thicker than my older QS 205 V3, I guess they upgraded to a thicker flat phase wire.
Oh and I’m going to the 4 AWG wire because I have to cut the wires anyway and weld on new lugs to connect to the controller so I might as well upgrade the size of the wires while I’m at it right, definitely doesn’t hurt. Also the M8 connectors fit nicely with 4 AWG wire

What’s the thickest wires people squeeze inside the QS205V3 axle without boring?

Here’s a link to the wire I’m considering purchasing, do you guys think this is a decent brand and quality? I believe OFC is speaker wire so I’m not sure if it’s compatible?

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex Kable OFC 4 Gauge Power Wire Copper Cable Black (10 ft) 4 AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HVQDYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_61Z032QJCQ3YF9SD5C5M?psc=1


In the pictures you can see the M8 bullets are much beefier than the XT90’s anti spark

Also you can see in the pictures the flat phase wires are the perfect width for these M8 Connectors

 

[Eastwood]

Ok so don’t have experience with speaker wire but it seems like it can’t handle the same amount of current?? So think I will go with ancor brand with 6awg. The 4AWG is probably overkill and it’s too expensive.

Ancor Marine Grade Primary Wire and Battery Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV0HE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3YXS7AAAQKJ64006N45?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[calab]

Damn those M8 bullet connectors look stout, nice big bowls for a big pool of solder with a blunt hammer tip soldering iron = easy

The dual 180/240w Wellers plumbing iron would be a cake walk
The downside is the cheap, weak soldering irons might not have enough heat to dump into the bowl.

I've always wondered what the hole on the side of the bullet is meant for.

 

[Eastwood]

The dual 180/240w Wellers plumbing iron would be a cake walk
The downside is the cheap, weak soldering irons might not have enough heat to dump into the bowl.

I've always wondered what the hole on the side of the bullet is meant for.

Well with these “type” of lug/connectors, I typically hold the connector in a vice and then torch it with a butane torch gun and feed the solder wire into the connector filling to the top then quickly insert the wire. You have to insert the wire pretty fast as the solder begins to harden but also be careful to not splash the molting metal on your skin I got a couple beauty marks from splashing solder :lol:
I’ve done this method with battery terminals and it gives you a real solid connection :thumb:

Oh and for the hole in the side I would “guess” that it creates a more sturdy connection as it’s somewhat of an anchor for the solder so the connection doesn’t slip out of place.

Well also I guess it could be an access hole to drip solder into the connection besides just through the end, so maybe it has more than one function?

 

[amberwolf]

The hole in the side is usually intended for you to feed the solder into, while preheating the cup and wire with your iron tip. The end of the cup is generally supposed to be filled with the wire going into it, so there would be no "room" to insert the solder into to get it down into the cup to fully solder the strands of conductor into it.

(if you use the end of the cup for this you'll get more wicking of solder into the strands into the insulation area than down into the cup, and this will stiffen that area and allow more stress on the wires at the end of the wicked area, which can eventually cause fatigue cracking and break your wires off at that point, inside the insulation where you can't see this has happened).

If the surfaces to solder to are correctly heated along with the solder during the process, the solder will bond to the surface and cannot come undone; there is nothing needed to anchor it into place.


Note that if you don't preheat the wire to soldering temperatures before inserting it into the molten solder, you instantly create a cold-solder joint, which is fractured at the interface and doesn't penetrate / wick into the strands of the conductor. It may "stick" to surfaces enough to not separate when pulled, but it is nowhere near as good a bond as if everything were at the same, correct, temperature for long enough to allow good solder flow over all surfaces.


If you ever have any old connections you are removing anyway that were done one way vs the other, you can carefully slice them in half lengthwise (difficult without altering the joint) and examine them with sufficient magnification under good lighting, and see the difference between them.


Properly-crimped crimpable connections are generally better than soldered ones; there is only direct conductor-to-contact connection, with no solder between them (which increases the joint's resistance). They are more heat-impervious as they cannot come undone if the joint ever reaches soldering temperatures (which shouldn't happen, but a poor contact connection can cause this via arcing), and they don't cause the fatigue-cracking issues that wicking of the solder up into the strands does. The crimp cold-welds via pressure all of the metal of the contact plus the conductors together into a single piece.

Of course, a badly-crimped connection can be worse than a badly-soldered one.