Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

Merlin said:
the XT150 are not the Problem.
The M14-7 connectors i cant "extend"

Display, BMS, Halls, PAS

4 of that big bitches :p

yah no kiddin, I have spliced and extended the Halls and heat sensor wires on Crystalyte motors, thats a pain in the ass and I would rather brush my teeth with my glock than do have to keep doing that. No way on the m14-7.
 
This is how i tamed my rats nest. No exotic cable lengthening required
 

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Merlin said:
looks well organizes that "mess" :D

did you have also pics from the downside? where the controller is mounted?
did you use the rubber sealings?

Yes I can take a pic, and I used a piece of MC tube to cover up some of the wires. I will snap a pic later and post it.
 
Thinking about it, why not replace the side cover bolts and cage nuts with a bigger size myself. This can easily be swapped out as sizes seem to be standard.

I can't stand having bolts loosen up. It seems the blue locktite doesn't help also.

I am going to switch them out for an m6 size to allow much greater torque on the bolts, and to use a 4mm hex driver. From research it seems any bolts that use a 3mm hex or lower get easily stripped. 4mm hex seems to be OK.
 
dvdrwsor said:
Thank you!

No problem, but before you decide on anything I would come back here and say what you intend to do. You want to keep the geometry of the bike reasonable. If you want a fat bike rear tire than you have to look at maybe a 24" to give you an outside diameter of around 26"

I would say best to just use a 3" size motorcycle tire like I do and run it at 12PSI, that will give you best overall experience. Fat bikes tires will probably wear away fast on that rear and are expensive.
 
Offroader said:
dvdrwsor said:
Thank you!

No problem, but before you decide on anything I would come back here and say what you intend to do. You want to keep the geometry of the bike reasonable. If you want a fat bike rear tire than you have to look at maybe a 24" to give you an outside diameter of around 26"

I would say best to just use a 3" size motorcycle tire like I do and run it at 12PSI, that will give you best overall experience. Fat bikes tires will probably wear away fast on that rear and are expensive.

Thats great advice, MC tires on the rear are really the best set up for any ebike running north of 3kw. 3 of my 4 ebikes are running MC tires on the rear. The only e bike I have not running a MC tire is only putting out 2kw.
 
Plus the MC tires are really cheap when compared to a bicycle tire. Especially a fat bike tire.

But it depends on what ones goals are, the fatbike tires will make the bike look more like a fatbike bicycle, than a moped.
 
I think I may have found a better bolt for the side covers.

The cage nut size will be limited to m5 because the square hole is a smaller size which only fits a maximum cage nut size of m5.

However, what I found are aluminum dome head bolts which have a head size of 16 mm, similar to the size of the washers on the side cover bolts now. What is also good about these bolts are that they use a 4mm hex wrench!!! so they will not strip like the current 3mm hex wrench. They are also aluminum to save a little weight. I also think alunminum bolts don't require lube for torque so you may be able to get a much higher torque on the bolts, especially with the 4mm hex wrench size.

So for you guys who want a better (4mm hex wrench) and easier bolt (no dealing with those washers) you can purchase something like this, they also come in different colors if you don't want silver side cover bolts.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium/aluminium-dome-head/aluminium-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mm-x-16mm-54.html

lfb516xlbk.jpg


But what I intend to do is also use nord lock washers under these bolts to make sure they do not become loose.
 
Offroader said:
I think I may have found a better bolt for the side covers.

The cage nut size will be limited to m5 because the square hole is a smaller size which only fits a maximum cage nut size of m5.

However, what I found are aluminum dome head bolts which have a head size of 16 mm, similar to the size of the washers on the side cover bolts now. What is also good about these bolts are that they use a 4mm hex wrench!!! so they will not strip like the current 3mm hex wrench. They are also aluminum to save a little weight. I also think alunminum bolts don't require lube for torque so you may be able to get a much higher torque on the bolts, especially with the 4mm hex wrench size.

So for you guys who want a better (4mm hex wrench) and easier bolt (no dealing with those washers) you can purchase something like this, they also come in different colors if you don't want silver side cover bolts.

https://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium/aluminium-dome-head/aluminium-dome-head-bolt-m5-x-0-8mm-x-16mm-54.html

lfb516xlbk.jpg


But what I intend to do is also use nord lock washers under these bolts to make sure they do not become loose.

This might just solve your problem. Aluminum on steel naturally sets. Wouldn't even have to use loctite.
 
dvdrwsor said:
Is this frame compatible with 26" rear wheel and 4" fat tires?

if we talk about a 26" rim with 4" tire -> never.
swingarm is only 10cm (and 4" are 10,16cm)

at the end it is only ~9cm...

i dont think a 24" bicycle rim will fit with a 4" tire anyway.


....as offroader and rix allready said: bicycle tires are very expensive compairing to mc tires...
and if you like to use your throttle, after 500km your bicycle tire is finish.
 
They do have 24" but are not as common. I would go with these over a regular 26" fatbike tire. But it may not come with 36 hole.

Qulbix did have a fat bike raptor at one point, I believe they used 24" rims on it.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/03/06/nahbs-2015-new-hed-24-fat-bike-rims-have-all-the-width-a-little-less-height/
 
Hi
I just received one of these frames, and i hope you can help me :D
What chain length are people using on these frames ?. I bought a 38 teeth crank and a 16 teeth freewheel, and i will be using the 10.5 marzocchi moto rear shock.
I hope you can help me :D
Best regards Olesen
 
askiller said:
Hi
I just received one of these frames, and i hope you can help me :D
What chain length are people using on these frames ?. I bought a 38 teeth crank and a 16 teeth freewheel, and i will be using the 10.5 marzocchi moto rear shock.
I hope you can help me :D
Best regards Olesen

I use a 10.5" shock, but have a 32 tooth up front. I also use a 16T freewheel in the rear.

The problem when using a 10.5" shock with the Q76R is that the bike has a lot of rear travel. So much travel that it was hard to take up the chain slack to make sure that you have full travel (chain not too small to prevent shock from bottoming out) and also the chain is not loose when not compressed. I believe Qulbix designed this bike for a 9.5" shock. I am not complaining because the suspension feels superior to the 165 raptor, which worked fine and was designed with a 10.5" shock. I also had to drop my spring weight from 400lbs to 300lbs.

The bike works with a 10.5" shock but you have to take extra care when sizing the chain. I just got mine to work with a 10.5", if I had any more rear travel I would have been screwed with my setup.

Just some tips if anyone has to install a chain with a 10.5" shock.

You have to remove the spring when installing the rear shock to make sure you are able to fully compress the rear shock or your chain will prevent this if you remove too many links.

What you need to do is install the chain and then push or sit on the seat to compress the shock fully and see how much slack is in the chain when fully compressed. If the chain is tight, can't move it any, you removed too many links.

Uncompress the shock fully by lifting up on the seat and see how loose the chain is, if it is way too loose and you can't adjust anything to take out some slack you have to remove a chain link.

Make sure that you mount the shock to the top hole on the swingarm as I have it in the picture below, the lower hole will even give you more rear travel which will make it harder to get the chain right.

Take your time when sizing the chain because you can't add back links, only remove the smallest section at a time.

If you have a derailleur with a long cage, mine is short cage, you may have less issues. You can adjust your derailleur to take up some of the slack also.

I bought a 116 link chain and had to remove some links to get my chain sized correctly. This is the chain I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DMSOHE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Post here to let us know if you had any difficulties when using the chain, I know one other person who used a 10.5" and he had the same issues but was using a similar setup. He did get it to work.



 
Thanks a lot offroader
Really helpful information :)
Do you think it would be a problem with the 38 teeth chainring and clearance to the rear swingarm.
I will post my build here. But i must admit that my color combination is exactly like yours :D
 
@ Merlin & Offroader
Thank you for your answers. I like the idea of cheap and durable tires, but I want to ride it in the sand and snow without the chance of getting stuck. Can you recommend a motocross tire size that can do that, or a place to research myself?
 
askiller said:
Thanks a lot offroader
Really helpful information :)
Do you think it would be a problem with the 38 teeth chainring and clearance to the rear swingarm.
I will post my build here. But i must admit that my color combination is exactly like yours :D

Silver is the probably the best color to be honest, I'm surprised more people are not using it. The silver makes it look hi-tech / futuristic and expensive.

you will have enough room with a 38t chainring. I went with a 32T because I want maximum clearance under my bike.
 
dvdrwsor said:
@ Merlin & Offroader
Thank you for your answers. I like the idea of cheap and durable tires, but I want to ride it in the sand and snow without the chance of getting stuck. Can you recommend a motocross tire size that can do that, or a place to research myself?


You can check out the picture of the fatbike Qulbix has on its webpage. Go to http://www.qulbix.com and click on gallery. I'll post the picture here. They use vee rubber 24x4 tire on the rear but I am not sure what they use on the front. 24x4 is the best size to use on the rear. Not sure why Merlin said they don't sell these rims and tires?

I would ask Qulbix what rim they used in the rear. They can build the wheels for you also if you order the motor from them.

IF you want to ride in sand and snow, you may be better off with a fatbike tires to be honest. To get anything that size in MC it will be extremely heavy, not sure if that is something you want to do but you could consider it. The fat bike tires should hold up well in the sand and snow and not wear too quickly. However, if you rode those a lot on pavement the rear tire would probably wear quickly. I think you have to figure out how much you will use the bike on pavement, and if it is going to be a lot of miles then you have to take that into consideration.

Front tires shouldn't wear too quickly even on pavement. My knobby duro razorback last 1000's of miles on pavement and still have knobs left.

I would also go with a 6T QS motor, or at least 1 turn higher then what most people get if using 24" fatbike tires.



 
Offroader said:
dvdrwsor said:
@ Merlin & Offroader
Thank you for your answers. I like the idea of cheap and durable tires, but I want to ride it in the sand and snow without the chance of getting stuck. Can you recommend a motocross tire size that can do that, or a place to research myself?


Not sure why Merlin said they don't sell these rims and tires?


because they dont sell single parts to end customer. No Motor, no Controllers...
only if you buy a complete bike from them.
and good to know: save another 25$ and dont buy the decals. all pics you see online are "old".
if you buy today a raptor, the decals had no Raptor graphics. because of what?....ask ziva. its her job to tell the customer that they want to distance/distinguish from DIY builds.

Offroader,
i see the pic. but cant believe that it is a normal swingarm. At that point where the tire sits the swingarm width is maximum 9cm.(Raptor 140)
4.0inch wide tires are 10cm.....
 
Offroader said:
Merlin, yeah those stats are way off. There must be a way you can calibrate them.

The Max-E seems to get the wattage about right. I believe 4.1 to 3.3 is about 2.6 AH on the Sanyo cells. I'll have to cycle a cell to see what i get on my charger.

Quokka said:
n running a heavier rear motor? I am contemplating a QS273 but it's going to come in at 20kg p

I'm running a Cromotor v3, and will be changing to a lighter Mxus Turbo motor to save weight in the rear.

The QS273 would be ridiculous heavy. I personally wouldn't use that unless you were going to stay on the street all the time and wanted to push serious power. The QS205 with extra copper fill is a heavy beast on its own.

However, it is hard to say how noticeable the weight is. It seems you don't really feel the weight of the hub motor too much or you get used to it. You may be able to get away with it, but why would you need such a beast of a motor.

I would be much better able to answer your question once I get my MXUS Turbo and see just how much losing 3KG of weight in the rear makes. I would say if you plan on off-roading the bike not to get it. The QS205 with extra copper fill is more than good enough.



Hello Offroader,
have you changed to MXUS V3?
do you feel difference compared to Cromotor v3. It is less torque with MXUS?
Do you notice less cogging with MXUS?
Do temperatures clime up noticablly faster?
 
I'm a couple months away from getting this motor installed and running. Wish I knew the answer before having to lace this motor up.
 
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