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Radster Trail revival project

TryingToLearn

🧲 New user
Joined
May 23, 2026
Messages
9
Location
Canada
Hello my good people, I have recently bought a Radster Trail from facebook marketplace but its in a rough shape and its display beyond repair. I bought the ebike because I wanted to do a DIY project battery pack + BMS but doing my research has left me with doubts. I have tested the motor and controller which seem fine but I'm looking to know if they really work by powering up the ebike. For that (to my knowledge) I would need a new display, I was wondering if there is an alternative display that is compatible with its stock motor controller ? Or maybe perhaps buy a semi compatible display that would atleast let me use the very core functionalities of the ebike ? Just trying to make the right purchase, I have read that some motor controllers-displays use proprietary communications between eachother that would make other off brand displays not function even if connected together.

Thank you for your time
 
I was wondering if there is an alternative display that is compatible with its stock motor controller ?
Maybe? What is the stock motor controller? Photos would be helpful. Although you are correct, controllers and displays are not usually mix-and-matchable.
 
Maybe? What is the stock motor controller? Photos would be helpful. Although you are correct, controllers and displays are not usually mix-and-matchable.

Sorry, I will include the pictures right now. So for the motor controller is LD.CR.S607 and for the display screen is DSX T900. I tried looking up the company for their products but it seems that they don't sell them
 

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Sorry, I will include the pictures right now. So for the motor controller is LD.CR.S607 and for the display screen is DSX T900. I tried looking up the company for their products but it seems that they don't sell them
Is that the one that uses a wireless keyfob? I think you’d need to go to rad. Modding the bike (replacing the controller, etc.) would be complicated due to the integrated battery and torque sensor. Earlier rad bikes weren’t as proprietary.
 
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Is that the one that uses a wireless keyfob? I think you’d need to go to rad. Modding the bike (replacing the controller, etc.) would be complicated due to the integrated battery and torque sensor. Earlier rad bikes weren’t as proprietary.
Yes, it the one with the wireless keyfob. When you say its complicated due to integrated battery, is it because to make a DYI battery pack, it would be mechanically challenging to do or is it because there is also a handshake communication from the battery pack to motor controller inorder for the ebike to function ? I have posted the connector of the battery to the motor controller
 

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I tried looking up the company for their products but it seems that they don't sell them
Which company? Rad Power Bikes recently claimed bankruptcy and was bought out by Life Electric Vehicles in Florida. Check and see if they have a replacement display for you.
 
Yes, it the one with the wireless keyfob. When you say its complicated due to integrated battery, is it because to make a DYI battery pack, it would be mechanically challenging to do or is it because there is also a handshake communication from the battery pack to motor controller inorder for the ebike to function ? I have posted the connector of the battery to the motor controller
Unless there’s something special about the bike that would make it worth investing significant time and money into your project, I’d sell it and look for a better donor.

EDIT: On my laptop now, instead of one finger typing on my tablet.

If you decide to proceed, then you'll likely replace the controller and display (should be purchased as a set), but unless you are very lucky, the torque sensor will add significant cost to implement, since you will need a controller (or a Cycle Analyst) that is compatible with that model of torque sensor. Since there's no information readily available on what it is, you will need to disassemble to access it and hopefully find a model number or other identifying information. The workaround would be to add a cadence sensing PAS, attached to bottom bracket, if that's acceptable.

If the original controller was integrated into other accessories on the bike, such as lights, then you'll probably need to work on that system separately and add a buck converter to supply the power.
If you go with a cadence PAS and can deal with the accessories (there are plenty of threads on this. I recall a member slaphappygamer, or something like that, that modded his factory bike and dealt with lighting issue, so you can search that), then you can do this very cheaply, but it's the same thing you'd go through if you started with a normal bike, except you have the motor already, without paying for a broken ebike.

On the motor, you can perform all the tests you need to ensure it functions by following the testing steps for the motor phases and hall sensor in this article:

There's a sticky in the troubleshooting subforum that includes links to the article above, and more troubleshooting articles. The link is also in my signature below, "DIY Newb FAQ"
 
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Which company? Rad Power Bikes recently claimed bankruptcy and was bought out by Life Electric Vehicles in Florida. Check and see if they have a replacement display for you.
Good news is i checked with a local store affiliated with Rad Power Bikes and they can pair a keyfob, bad news is if the stock motor controller cannot handle a DIY battery pack due to proprietary handshake then the stock motor controller and display are useless to me
 
Good news is i checked with a local store affiliated with Rad Power Bikes and they can pair a keyfob, bad news is if the stock motor controller cannot handle a DIY battery pack due to proprietary handshake then the stock motor controller and display are useless to me
Are you selling it?
 
Unless there’s something special about the bike that would make it worth investing significant time and money into your project, I’d sell it and look for a better donor.

EDIT: On my laptop now, instead of one finger typing on my tablet.

If you decide to proceed, then you'll likely replace the controller and display (should be purchased as a set), but unless you are very lucky, the torque sensor will add significant cost to implement, since you will need a controller (or a Cycle Analyst) that is compatible with that model of torque sensor. Since there's no information readily available on what it is, you will need to disassemble to access it and hopefully find a model number or other identifying information. The workaround would be to add a cadence sensing PAS, attached to bottom bracket, if that's acceptable.

If the original controller was integrated into other accessories on the bike, such as lights, then you'll probably need to work on that system separately and add a buck converter to supply the power.
If you go with a cadence PAS and can deal with the accessories (there are plenty of threads on this. I recall a member slaphappygamer, or something like that, that modded his factory bike and dealt with lighting issue, so you can search that), then you can do this very cheaply, but it's the same thing you'd go through if you started with a normal bike, except you have the motor already, without paying for a broken ebike.

On the motor, you can perform all the tests you need to ensure it functions by following the testing steps for the motor phases and hall sensor in this article:

There's a sticky in the troubleshooting subforum that includes links to the article above, and more troubleshooting articles. The link is also in my signature below, "DIY Newb FAQ"
Yeah it is quite a pain this bike, but I'm doing this for purely educational purposes so I don't mind putting hours and some money into it. Ideally, I would like to use it as my day-to-day mobility and if the project is a success and well done, I would like to contribute to the community and post it as a guide to anyone looking to revive their Radster Trail.

You are right, I'm most likely going to replace the stock motor controller with a new one. I haven't disassembled anything yet as in regards to the torque sensor model but I have read that previous Rad Power Bikes owners have used KT controllers on their slithgly older bike models so I looked into them and they state they have something called "simulated torque PAS" so I'm hoping it works. The problem is, the connectors from my hub motor to the KT controller(see below & image for info) does not match. I would have to splice them somehow ? The connector of my hub motor is a L1121 male and the KT controller is not known to me...

Just to be sure, if I change motor controllers I would need to change screen display but ALSO change the stock accessories such as lights ? Could be the case because if we take the controller I linked in this reply, almost or none of my stock connectors match

Controller:
Controller link
 

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Yeah it is quite a pain this bike, but I'm doing this for purely educational purposes so I don't mind putting hours and some money into it. Ideally, I would like to use it as my day-to-day mobility and if the project is a success and well done, I would like to contribute to the community and post it as a guide to anyone looking to revive their Radster Trail.

You are right, I'm most likely going to replace the stock motor controller with a new one. I haven't disassembled anything yet as in regards to the torque sensor model but I have read that previous Rad Power Bikes owners have used KT controllers on their slithgly older bike models so I looked into them and they state they have something called "simulated torque PAS" so I'm hoping it works. The problem is, the connectors from my hub motor to the KT controller(see below & image for info) does not match. I would have to splice them somehow ? The connector of my hub motor is a L1121 male and the KT controller is not known to me...

Just to be sure, if I change motor controllers I would need to change screen display but ALSO change the stock accessories such as lights ? Could be the case because if we take the controller I linked in this reply, almost or none of my stock connectors match

Controller:
Controller link
The KT will provide a decent PAS experience, but not the same as a torque sensor since it only supports cadence, unless you install open source firmware, which will support it (but some hardware tweaking will be involved).
You’ll need to trace your lighting conductors to see how they may (or may not) connect to your controller to see what you; need to do.
You might get some good tips from this thread I mentioned earlier.

PS. Your motor connector appears to be proprietary, so you’ll need your soldering iron or crimpers. You need a controller that supports a speed sensor input.
 
The KT will provide a decent PAS experience, but not the same as a torque sensor since it only supports cadence, unless you install open source firmware, which will support it (but some hardware tweaking will be involved).
You’ll need to trace your lighting conductors to see how they may (or may not) connect to your controller to see what you; need to do.
You might get some good tips from this thread I mentioned earlier.

PS. Your motor connector appears to be proprietary, so you’ll need your soldering iron or crimpers. You need a controller that supports a speed sensor input.
Actually, upon receiving my battery supply, I just plugged it into the battery connector's two big pins ONLY(there's like 5 pins total) and the whole ebike managed to turn on. Does that mean that it doesn't actually have a proprietary handshake between the controller and the battery ?

Its important to mention that I haven't gotten the chance to unlock it yet so i can't really test parameters nor engage the motor via throttle. But everything else works, the brakelights, display turns on (stills needs passcode)
 
Actually, upon receiving my battery supply, I just plugged it into the battery connector's two big pins ONLY(there's like 5 pins total) and the whole ebike managed to turn on.
Battery supply? Battery? Power supply? Battery charger? What? Unclear.

What did you plug into what?
 
Battery supply? Battery? Power supply? Battery charger? What? Unclear.

What did you plug into what?
Oops, i mixed the words battery pack and power supply together. I meant to say Power supply and I connected it to the 2 large flat blade terminals(see image below)
 

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So you got a 48V power supply and connected it to the 2 large flat blade terminals and the system powered up? That is a good sign. What is your next step?
 
So you got a 48V power supply and connected it to the 2 large flat blade terminals and the system powered up? That is a good sign. What is your next step?
I have tested what i could with the guide linked by @E-HP. Right now, the next step would be to unlock the ebike by going into the local store that said they could maybe unlock it. I had thought that the stock battery and controller would need a communication handshake between them to power on the ebike because of how the battery's connector has 5 pins and not your simple typical 2 pins(red&black). But now that the ebike turns on with the Power Supply, I'm not too sure if there's proprietary communication, I had always thought that if there was actually proprietary communication then the ebike wouldn't be able to turn on. I guess I would have to take the risk and unlock it via the store unless someone here tells me that they're sure that there is proprietary communication that would impede me from connecting a DIY battery to the ebike with having to replace its adjacent stock components.

The only thing I could think of is that the 3 pins would be passive signals like temperature, charging signal, etc.
 
The only thing I could think of is that the 3 pins would be passive signals like temperature, charging signal, etc.
I looked at the available info earlier. Their batteries, including the newer "Safe Shield" models, that probably would be used for your model bike, don't mention anything about temp monitoring of the pack, but maybe they are used pass on charge monitoring info, which may not affect how the battery discharges.
 
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