Link
1 MW
Ping's batts don't have very good discharge rates, either, but we get along pretty well with them. :wink:
Any idea of actual range?
Any idea of actual range?
range/power boost Stingray electric
- Thread starter dsljohn
- Start date
docnjoj
1 GW
That chain ring looks pretty, but doesnt seem to have alot of teeth on it! Maybe a 52 tooth one would make a difference in the pedaling speed?
otherDoc
otherDoc
dsljohn
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2008
- Messages
- 20
Well, it fell far short of my goal, I did about 11 miles on the new batteries and then I had to pedal home on my own power -- not an easy task on this heavy one-speed. I think I'm going to go for a larger front sprocket, I'll take your advice otherDOC and go for 52 teeth.
HELP!
I have a stock stingray with a 24v system, the batteries died from 2003 so I replaced them and tried to upgrade to a 36v system. I am running 3x 12v12AH batteries in the plastic engine case and the stock charger obviously didn't work because its rated for 24v, I just bought another charger that is 36v 2.5amp. So I charged the bike and it finished but only ran no more than a mile and then completely died (hear is a link to the charger http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=300200312172). SO that charger isn't working right either and I don't know how many amps I should be getting with a charger.
My question is to anyone out there that can recommend a charger for the stock system known to work or any advice for how much amperage needed. Do I need a better controller? but then I don't know how to wire a new controller properly from wires not coordinating. Should I simply just get a 48v charger so I know its gonna have enough juice. Any advice at all would be very grateful, thank you.
I have a stock stingray with a 24v system, the batteries died from 2003 so I replaced them and tried to upgrade to a 36v system. I am running 3x 12v12AH batteries in the plastic engine case and the stock charger obviously didn't work because its rated for 24v, I just bought another charger that is 36v 2.5amp. So I charged the bike and it finished but only ran no more than a mile and then completely died (hear is a link to the charger http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=300200312172). SO that charger isn't working right either and I don't know how many amps I should be getting with a charger.
My question is to anyone out there that can recommend a charger for the stock system known to work or any advice for how much amperage needed. Do I need a better controller? but then I don't know how to wire a new controller properly from wires not coordinating. Should I simply just get a 48v charger so I know its gonna have enough juice. Any advice at all would be very grateful, thank you.
dogman dan
1 PW
My guess is the controller couldn't handle 36v. 
64ragtop
100 W
Well, I think I may have found the last electric Stingray for sale anywhere. But, maybe not. I called a distributor and gave the poor dude on the phone some grief about the bike being on their website, but not available. So, he "found" one - the last one in the place, he said - and bumped the price and the shipping cost posted in the webpage. Told me that I probably had an old page, and the price he quoted me was firm. So, it's on the way here for a bit under $400.00. I feel kinda "diddled" but not really raped, 'cause this is a whole ebike for $100.00 less than I could build something similar. Pretty well planning on overvolting very shortly after assembling, 'cause I'm a big guy. 
I'm wondering what has failed in others' experience, and what the fix is. I understand the electric Stingray uses a brushless motor, but is it geared or not? If the stock controller won't handle 36 volts, I suppose pretty much any 36 volt brushless controller will do. Can anyone confirm that? Here's hoping that it doesn't spend more time being "fixed" (see my sig) than being ridden!
Thanks for any feedback - I appreciate it!
ATB
BC
But, maybe not. I called a distributor and gave the poor dude on the phone some grief about the bike being on their website, but not available. So, he "found" one - the last one in the place, he said - and bumped the price and the shipping cost posted in the webpage. Told me that I probably had an old page, and the price he quoted me was firm. So, it's on the way here for a bit under $400.00. I feel kinda "diddled" but not really raped, 'cause this is a whole ebike for $100.00 less than I could build something similar. Pretty well planning on overvolting very shortly after assembling, 'cause I'm a big guy. I'm wondering what has failed in others' experience, and what the fix is. I understand the electric Stingray uses a brushless motor, but is it geared or not? If the stock controller won't handle 36 volts, I suppose pretty much any 36 volt brushless controller will do. Can anyone confirm that? Here's hoping that it doesn't spend more time being "fixed" (see my sig) than being ridden!
Thanks for any feedback - I appreciate it!
ATB
BC
Link
1 MW
Gunther said:
Amps on a charger only dictates how long it takes to charge, not whether or not it will work with a given battery. The voltage HAS to match, since a charger made for 24V on a 36V won't charge it at all (might also blow the charger) and a 48V on a 36V will destroy the batteries.
Seems your problem is a broken connection somewhere in the charging wires, probably in the bike.
Oh well everything was working but maybe I should solder the wires to the batteries like they had originally. Do you know how much runtime I might have with this setup(once working properly). Im not really sure how to calculate it but im sure this is a way with 3x 12v12ah batteries.
Also would my problem have anything to do with the stock controller or would an aftermarket one just distribute the power more efficient and have a longer runtime? Not quite sure what exactly a controller does except convert and distribute the power to the motor.
Also would my problem have anything to do with the stock controller or would an aftermarket one just distribute the power more efficient and have a longer runtime? Not quite sure what exactly a controller does except convert and distribute the power to the motor.
dogman dan
1 PW
Id say step one is get a voltmeter if you haven't allready. Charge the batteries and then check the voltage. It should be over 13v for a full charged battery, or for all three somewhere around 40 volts. If that checks out, and you can't find any broken connections, then you may have a cooked controller. The controller made for 24v may have been too weak for a 36 v power source. If you open the controller up, you may even see cooked parts inside.
Link
1 MW
Gunther said:
Hard to say, but probably a little longer if you run full speed all the time. Much longer if you back off on the throttle and use similar speeds as you got on 24V.
The controller still works, so it's fine. When it comes to overvolting, it pretty much just works or it blows almost immediately. A new controller wouldn't make much difference in range, since even cheap ones are pretty efficient. All the controller does is basically flip a switch on and on really fast (18kHz usually) to modulate the amount of power going to the motor. With a brushless, it also decides which phases to send power to for a given position of the motor.
Patriot4
100 mW
Hi, I got one of the last ones from the earlier EBay link. A week later I added a another 12 volt battery and got a charger off EBay. I have had no problems. A guy on a scooter rode along side of me in the park and said I was going 25 to 30 mph on the flat road. It is fairly peppy now and the longest ride I have taken is about 12 miles and it still had good power. Oh, i did solder the wires on to the battery. I paid $262.00 total another $70 to boost it up to 36 volts, which is a steal for an electric bike and yea there is no way to pedal that fast on this single speed. I am constantly geting asked about it and the people that I let ride it, come back with that EV grin and say they want one. Sadly, not really, they ask where they can get one and I have tell them there are no more. As far as I know, I am the only one in Denver that has one. I plan to eventually go Lifepo4 battery. And yes it is a bear to peddle over 100 lbs and me on this thing. Also the lack of suspension was rough on the butt, but is so much fun to ride!
dogman dan
1 PW
I guess I'm just not getting something here, I thought it wouldn't run now.
stingray323
1 mW
My Stingray overhated on a very hot day in LA It died, preciously I had added one more 12 v 12 AMP BATTERY INTO THE CASE PROVIDED. I now believe the controller overheated only.
I need a new one now the 24 volt ananda original is great with 36 I had veen zooming for months on the storck one.
but alas the heat got it and I can get no help from apcific cycles warranty dept they have no availability date for a warranty part.
it has eight wires to the motor. a five wire throttle and a red black wire plug. so I need to convert some other models control box to this bike
I want a 36 controller.
HELP please tell me of a replacemant control system that I can cut and fit to this motor with three big wires blue green yellow and thre of those colors in smaller wire plus two more a red and black small wire.
I never see this many going to the hub have YOU?
I need a new one now the 24 volt ananda original is great with 36 I had veen zooming for months on the storck one.
but alas the heat got it and I can get no help from apcific cycles warranty dept they have no availability date for a warranty part.
it has eight wires to the motor. a five wire throttle and a red black wire plug. so I need to convert some other models control box to this bike
I want a 36 controller.
HELP please tell me of a replacemant control system that I can cut and fit to this motor with three big wires blue green yellow and thre of those colors in smaller wire plus two more a red and black small wire.
I never see this many going to the hub have YOU?
Patriot4
100 mW
Hi, do not know if any of these controllers will work. http://monsterscooterparts.com/cu24v35a5cos.html . If you search ananda on this site they come up with two contollers.
Patriot4
100 mW
Another Source? http://www.partsforscooters.com/All-Parts/Controllers-electric. I think you can email these guys questions.
64ragtop
100 W
I think the controllers on those two sites are all for brushed motors, but the Ananda motors in the Electric Stingray are brushless!
stingray323 wrote: "I never see this many going to the hub have YOU?"
If I understood you correctly, you've found wires about like this:
though likely with different colors.
If so, you and I are gonna need to fins our replacement controllers from the likes of ecrazyman, Crystalyte, Infineon, and possibly others that I hope members here will know. I spent a bunch of time trying to make sense of this thread: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5713&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=120 on this board, and all I can get is that it seems to have the same number of wires as our Ananda motors. Seems like an area that needs further exploration.
I haven't blown my Ananda controller up yet, 'cause I have a blown rear tube and no spare on hand. I can hardly wait!!!
ATB
BC
stingray323 wrote: "I never see this many going to the hub have YOU?"
If I understood you correctly, you've found wires about like this:
though likely with different colors.
If so, you and I are gonna need to fins our replacement controllers from the likes of ecrazyman, Crystalyte, Infineon, and possibly others that I hope members here will know. I spent a bunch of time trying to make sense of this thread: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5713&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=120 on this board, and all I can get is that it seems to have the same number of wires as our Ananda motors. Seems like an area that needs further exploration.
I haven't blown my Ananda controller up yet, 'cause I have a blown rear tube and no spare on hand. I can hardly wait!!!
ATB
BC
It is likely you're using a brushless motor so you *need* a brushless controller to match. I believe 3 wires go the phases and another 3(or 4? or more?) are used for the hall sensors, if you're using a sensorless controller. It is possible that the hall-sensors are damaged.
So I'm running a 36v system, rewired the entire case with new wires, and have brand new batteries. It looks like the charge is fully at around 37.1v but I ride the bike to school which is a little over a mile around 15min ride. Today I backed off the throttle and was going a little over half for the throttle position but the bike pretty much stated loosing power buy the time I got there and didn't get me very far after I left. I just don't get why I am not nearly getting far enough on it or fully charge but it seems like it just eats the batteries up right away. Any suggestions???
Well maybe not a mile in 15min, but take into consideration of stop lights and traffic, I run the bike from 16 to 19 mph if my cyclometer is calibrated right which it is probably not.
And I just recently purchased a Razor charger cause it has the right fitting on it with these specs:
Type : Battery Charger
Brand : Qili Power
Output Current : 1.67A (1670mA)
Output Voltage : DC 36V
I also added a Pic on the previous page with how I wired in the third battery which could actually be my problem, check it out, I appreciate all the people helping out the novices on here like me, Thank You.
And I just recently purchased a Razor charger cause it has the right fitting on it with these specs:
Type : Battery Charger
Brand : Qili Power
Output Current : 1.67A (1670mA)
Output Voltage : DC 36V
I also added a Pic on the previous page with how I wired in the third battery which could actually be my problem, check it out, I appreciate all the people helping out the novices on here like me, Thank You.
vanilla ice
1 MW
Why did you wire the charge plug that way? Unless I'm missing something here, you want to connect the charge plug to the positive lead going to the controller plug and the negative lead at the switch.
Your bats are not charging properly, 3 SLA's should be above 40 volts fresh off the wall socket.
Your bats are not charging properly, 3 SLA's should be above 40 volts fresh off the wall socket.
Well I left it the stock way how it comes except threw a third battery in the system and looking at the wiring can tell that it doesn't connect to all the batteries, is there a way for you to open it in paint and show me where it should be connected by drawing in some different color lines to show where it should be connected?
