range/power boost Stingray electric

[vanilla ice]

Are you sure your original drawring is correct? Looks like you are reverse charging a single battery in that one. Make sure your polarity is correct on the charge socket.


This should be it..


I similarly added an extra bat in series to my Currie, but when I charge it with the stock 24v charger I rewire it back to stock, the use a separate 12v charger on the 3rd brick.

 

[Gunther]

Ok so I rewired it and am getting a 36v reading out of the that plug, so thanks for the help it looks like it is working well. My next question is I plugged in the charger and it shows a green light that it is fully charged because it is reading 36.5v but how will a 36v charger go up to 40v which is what it should be fully charged, right?

Vanilla Ice:
Should I wire it up to charge for the stock 24v and then get a 12v for the third battery wiring that separately for charging?
Does that work well for you, I assume you get around a 40v charge with all the batteries running on the bike.

 

[vanilla ice]

Some chargers go green after an 85% or so charge, then they gradually get up to full voltage. Maybe yours is like this. Other thing it could be is those batteries just wont get up to the ~13.4v that fresh bats would be at. Age, overdischarge, improper charging will cause their capacity to go down.

After you let it sit charging off the green light for a few hours does the pack at least read 39v??

If you have a 36v charger you don't need to run two chargers like me. I only do it because its what I got.

 

[swampjeep]

try testing the voltage of each battery seperately, maybe you have a bad battery.

 

[vanilla ice]

If the original wiring pic is correct, that means one 12v battery was getting a reverse 36v charge, and its probably toast. Unless you have a smart charger that didn't let it get damaged.

 

[sangesf]

I hate to hijack this thread, but I'm having a HUGE problem, and I'm sure you guys can help.

I have an electric stringray too. the problem is, my motor crapped itself

Does ANYONE have ANY clue, where I could get a replacement hub motor? What manufacturer?

I would like to replace it with a 24v 350watt hub motor. (Don't really wanna go 36v or more than 400w)

Thanx in advance.

Frank

 

[stingray323]

Crapped out I had that happen. Now I find that the motor may be repaired.
It seems that heat is the enemy if your died quickly when overheated it could be the similar situation to my own. My schwinn electric stinger had only 300 miles It was upgraded to 36 at home by adding on a third battery at the fuse link it was so easy. I ran it fast and up hill till it eventually quit. after recieveing a new controller from Pacific cycles i realized it was internal .
so I took it off the bike and will advise when I open it up or send it to a repair service I found in this forum under items for sale today.
we own the latest tpe of hub motor it has hall sensors and three phases this is worth 200 plus dollars.
ananda created it specially with an extra wide axel since the rear tire is 4.125mm
I suggest you copy my lead and contact a decent repair shop it will save you money. or convert it to an outer motor easily transferred to this bike there is a spot to mount an external motor below the seat and there is a model out there theat came that way from stingray it preceeded the 3 phase hub motor and can be view in a photo that I saw on ebay

 

[Gunther]

So I'm back...

I listened to all you who were helping me and thank you very much. I rewired the batteries so that they are ALL getting a charge and correctly for 36v. I went and got a fresh new set of batteries just in case and ran it for a couple of days until it died. Now when I try to charge it, and mind you it is at 34v right now the charger indicator light just stays green after leaving it a couple of days has not charged it at all. It still is at 34v and the bike rides for some odd feet before it dies.

I think I need a different charger is what the final problem is. I am currently using a new 36v Razor charger made for their scooters and mini bikes. Can anyone who is running a 36v system tell me what charger you use that you know works. I would like to try a different charger for the system and hopefully just get this Stingray running right. Thanks

 

[Patriot4]

Hi,
I just went on EBAY and found one with the same connector when I converted to 36 volts. Cheap! One thing you might want to check is that the connector is wired correctly, not reversed power or the wrong pins.

 

[vanilla ice]

What do you mean by "ran it for a couple days until it died?"

Order a charger from TNCscooters. Those batteries don't like sitting around at 11.4 volts. Don't use them anymore until you get a charger. In the mean while if you can get your hands on an auto bat trickle charger, use that on them one at a time.

 

[stingray323]

I used a 36 volt charger that I bought on ebay too it has the XLR port end. If you are using a old charger or the one that came with the bike at 24 it won't work. I have burned up 5 chargers this january. they are cheap at best If a reverse polarity hits the charger it burns out instantly then only green light still works.
basically a charger is a coil that converts 120 vac to dc 36 or whatever. I found a company in santa anna that sells a bare bones transformer for less that 20 bucks you must solder the wires on to it and it is a coil wound at 120 on one side and 36 etc on the other it is call a center tap transformer
I think that if you open up your case and charge each one individually on 12 volt with a 2 amp charger you can start over I opened my case and wired my own batterys in many indidual configuratrion you may want to attach a red and black wire to each one and run the wires outside so yo can work with them individually .
I bought a new kit for a front Hub motor for $239 at campsolutions do com and set my sting ray to work with a front wheel it is 48 volts brushless and has only three wires to the motor they sell 36 and 48 volt controls too. I am getting great reasults because the new set up does not cut off at 20 mph.
ther eis a low voltage cut off thats all it will run 5 sla when I first put a third bat on my stinger I attached it inline by using the red and black wires from the fuse that puts the new bat in the center of the other two worked pergfectly. My stinger sat after the rear hub melted the wires on a hot day the chinese put junky wires in the hub I can now sole that with a three wire controller . so have fun and get a new charger your is toast

 

[sangesf]

You're the second person talk about campsolutons.com, but it's campsolution... Singular, NOT plural


Thanks.

 

[stingray323]

Yes I now realize it is CampSolution.com, I found out that my rear hub motor with sensors inside will run with the controller I bought from them. I notice that only three wires are needed to supply the 3 phase power, and this controller is supplied by 48 volts! the rear motor can achieve 30 mph on the flat road now " amazing"

 

[sangesf]

Yes I now realize it is CampSolution.com, I found out that my rear hub motor with sensors inside will run with the controller I bought from them. I notice that only three wires are needed to supply the 3 phase power, and this controller is supplied by 48 volts! the rear motor can achieve 30 mph on the flat road now " amazing"

And how exactly is the rear 20" motor doing 30mph?

 

[64ragtop]

....I notice that only three wires are needed to supply the 3 phase power, and this controller is supplied by 48 volts! the rear motor can achieve 30 mph on the flat road now " amazing"

And how exactly is the rear 20" motor doing 30mph?

My guess would be that it's spinning like hell, and maybe running a little warm - but I could be wrong :lol: .....

That said, 30 MPH on a Stingray that would haul me up the hills in Austin, Texas would tickle my fancy just fine :wink:

I'd even give up a little of that top end for climbing power, but that's just a sprocket change away...

ATB

BC

 

[sangesf]

....I notice that only three wires are needed to supply the 3 phase power, and this controller is supplied by 48 volts! the rear motor can achieve 30 mph on the flat road now " amazing"

And how exactly is the rear 20" motor doing 30mph?

My guess would be that it's spinning like hell, and maybe running a little warm - but I could be wrong :lol: .....

That said, 30 MPH on a Stingray that would haul me up the hills in Austin, Texas would tickle my fancy just fine :wink:

I'd even give up a little of that top end for climbing power, but that's just a sprocket change away...

ATB

BC

So to get it correctly, you're saying your running that 250w motor on 48 volts? You mean it hasn't died on you yet? (Don't worry, I'm sure it will!)

 

[Patriot4]

Just wondering, is your stingray still running? Just curious as I also have one running 36 volts.

Ray

 

[64ragtop]

Hi, Ray. I note you've been running your stingray on 36 volts for at least 6 months, and you've reported no problems. Congratulations!
I've let a bunch of other "stuff" delay my Stingray project, but am planning on sticking some Bosch "Fat Packs" inside the cute li'l v-twin
battery pack and running 36 volts as well. Are you running the stock controller, or did you find a 36 volt one compatible with the stock motor.
If you got a 36 volt controller, what make and model, please. I'm thinking that the controller is a more likely failure than the motor if it's
overvolted by 50 %. and another concern with the stock controller is the low voltage cutoff point. The 24 volt controller's Lo V cutoff would
let the 36 volt battery pack run DEAD FLAT! and the batteries might well be naught but toast....

Any extra details you would care to post would be much appreciated.

ATB

BC

 

[Patriot4]

Hi 64Ragtop, I'm running the stock controller, no mods other than adding the battery. The furthest I've ridden is maybe 15 miles. The Batteries did go bad in the fall last year after about 6 months. The originals were probably fairly old to begin with, installed new ones about a month ago. I have had no other problems. My top speed in our local park measured by guy riding besides me with a Moped was 27 MPH on the flat. When the weather is nice, no rain or snow, I ride to work about 4 miles one way and charge it up there. About the voltage, I am thinking of putting a 12 volt Zener Diode on the indicator bar so it would be half way acurate. Keep us informed with what your thinking of doing.

Ray

 

[tomascg]

Use the motor case! It can hold (3) 12Ah batteries.
-Tom
www.abqelectriccycles.com

 

[64ragtop]

I have an inquiry in to Ananda about their motors and controllers that Schwinn used on our Electric Stingrays.
This page on their website: http://www.ananda.com.cn/anandaenglish/product_list.asp?id=329
shows controllers in 24, 36, & 48 volt configurations

Currently, I'm thinking of a 36 volt controller and three of the Bosch FatPacks inside that cute li'l chrome V-twin
battery pack. Now, If i can just get to the darn project

ATB

BC

 

[tchapin]

My dad just picked an electric Stingray. It was complete (minus the fake pipes) but a little rusty. the wiring was a little hacked up in the battery box but after connecting a different charger plug and a new charger, we were able to get the batteries to work pretty good.

Now the motor has some problem. Every thing spins smooth until the power is turned on. Once the power switch is on, the back wheel has a bad vibration and a clunking noise. This happens when the motor is under power or just spinning it by hand. Under power it is much worse. The motor works but doesn't seem to have alot of power. With me on it (6 ft 190 lbs). I have to get it moving before the motor will push me along. one going, if I pull the brake lever just enough to cut the power to the motor, the noise and vibration goes away. as soon as the power is back on, the noise and vibration comes back.

I have not messed with hub motors so i'm not sure what to look for or how to pull the motor apart. I am hoping someone will have an idea what i should try next. if everything works good, maybe i will jump it up to 36 volts also..

 

[bbsux]

I don't know -- maybe the controller is wired wrong? That kinda sounds like when you get 2 of the 3 phases wrong....

 

[64ragtop]

I would guess phasing is incorrect as well.
How about a picture of the wiring to see if I can spot anything different from my unmolested E-Stingray.
Maybe if I turn mine upside down, I'll finally get some other work done on it

ATB

BC

 

[tchapin]

Thanks for the info. The major problem is the bike is 100 miles away at the moment. Not sure but he might be bring the bike down to me when he drops off the kids. I got a mini vac. this week when I dropped the kid off at his house on Monday and messed with the stingray. I didn’t have much time to mess with it and didn’t even look at the controller other than to see that wire were connected. With the wiring hacked up in the battery box it is possible the wiring was messed with at the controller. I would ask my dad but if it is more than plugging the charger in the wall and in the bike and seeing that the charge light are on, he will get lost…

I will hopefully have the bike here in the next month and can study the controller wires.