Re-winding a hubmotor

this might not make it in time, but the common pie is around 7.4 kv and .2 ohlms.
changed to delta i got 12.6kv and 65mohlm.
also the halls might have to be moved to between teeth not in the middle of a tooth, had strange problems with this..
fine work by the way, the double pie would be unreal.
 
toolman2 said:
this might not make it in time, but the common pie is around 7.4 kv and .2 ohlms.
changed to delta i got 12.6kv and 65mohlm.
also the halls might have to be moved to between teeth not in the middle of a tooth, had strange problems with this..
fine work by the way, the double pie would be unreal.
Click to expand...

Even single pie is unreal. On a meager 72v/56a, i have not even seen the limit of this motor just yet. It gets barely warm on hill climbs, where it will drop maybe a few mph from cruising speed and that's it.. It will out-accelerate a lot of motorcycles i've seen on the street. It's thrown me backwards more than once. I am honestly a little scared of riding it and need to turn the power DOWN.

I think you will have the hub motor to rule all hubmotors ( including the cromotor ) once you are done with this project, farfle. So far, my single Magic Pie II is proving to be a poor man's crystalyte 5xxx.

( just a word of encouragement since i'm still super jacked up on how awesome this motor is )
 
Well there has been a small setback... Looks like ill be stopping by the steelyard one town over and be buying a 3" slice of some 9" round rod. Im thinking a Crystallite style aluminum slug stator with liquid cooling channels.

2012-01-12142219.jpg
 
soo... you bolted the stators together, and the holes weakened the spokes enough to shatter them... when you did what? what torqued them to destruction?
that's a huge setback friend. I hope you can fix it with your solid center idea.

I just spent two hours stripping one of my hs30 stators of it's burnt windings. I have enormous blisters as a result. Makes the reality of rewinding seem more painful somehow... Still, once the other stator is stripped i can look at machining down the inner flange and sticking em together. Can I ask why you decided to drill/bolt?
 
parabellum said:
What is that big iron thing in the axle hole? Are you attempting to make motorcycle type bolt thru axle?
Click to expand...

hey hey, that's a nicely machined piece of cold roll... and yes, it will be a motorcycle style axle, but with a little bit of a twist to transmit the torque.

Andje said:
soo... you bolted the stators together, and the holes weakened the spokes enough to shatter them... when you did what? what torqued them to destruction?
that's a huge setback friend. I hope you can fix it with your solid center idea.

I just spent two hours stripping one of my hs30 stators of it's burnt windings. I have enormous blisters as a result. Makes the reality of rewinding seem more painful somehow... Still, once the other stator is stripped i can look at machining down the inner flange and sticking em together. Can I ask why you decided to drill/bolt?
Click to expand...


The bolt holes where there on 3/8 of the spokes to mount the internal controller. It failed when I pulled on it while winding the first slot, which was a tremendous learning experience... 4 turns is not gonna happen... 3 turns fits great tho. So it will be a three turn delta for a Kv of 12ish, and a 12ish percent in copper fill :D . The end turns fit nice and flat to the stator with some convincing with a wooden tool and a hammer. and the .020 Nomex paper is indestructible, you can pull on it hard enough to break the wire (and the stator :cry: :cry: :cry: ) without pulling a short.
 
Thats the suckyest suck that sucks.
 
Sheet! You must be HUGE!

Seriously though, bad luck and hope you get it sorted soon- we're all waiting eagerly to see the results!
 
bit the bullet and ordered 4 lbs of 18 awg. Soon i will join you in your double hub madness. Need to machine down my flanges. The hs motor has an unused keyway in the center, so I can just press out the axles and then install a large one with a keyway and a retaining ring of some sort on either side.
Where did you order your nomex from farfle? and what is that java electric vehicle sim you screenshotted a couple pages back; i'm now using statorcalc but have yet to find that java app.
 
Way to go! I got the nomex paper here from bigmoose, shoot him a pm. The Java app is the swblueto simulator (maybe spelled wrong) google search the name of the sim and you should be able to find it on the sphere, if not I'll shoot you the working version when I get home tonight
 
A rather large lump of metal :) , they didnt have any 9", or 10" , but they did have 12, so, i got a 12"x2" pieceof billet goodness, soon to be a stator core

2012-01-13151341.jpg
 
Amazing. Water cooling still on the to do list?
 
I may do oil cooling, and then liquid cool the stator, that way the oil cools the end turns, and the stator can cool the slot copper and the oil.
 
Better it broke on the bench than on the road leaning over

did it break because you drilled the spokes or is the material really crappy/brittle

you actually got lucky because you probably would have snapped the spokes with torque anyways like lowracer did to his beefy cast stator X5404

We should take your experience into account when drill side covers. thanks and good luck!
 
am i doing this right? can you see something obvious i have done wrong?

hs screenshot.PNG
 
Andje,
your stator diameter # looks wrong to me.in moto calc.(i would guess its over 100mm in diameter)
as for the other calclator...there are some fanciful #s in there.
 
thanks thud, i had added a decimal to make 18.8 cm instead of the 188mm. I also tweaked the numbers in the ev calc. Which ones seem fanciful? I have a 400amp 144v kelly coming, so the voltage and battery current really will be that high. Reduced wheel diameter to something more reasonable, and increased lbs and cross section, but I still get what seems to me to be very nice numbers indeed.
I'm basing the guess of kv off of doubling my stator and then halving the turns so as to get approximately the same kv. I will definetly nail down that number more, but it seems like 10 kv is giving me good efficiency and top speed; turning it up or down impacts one of those two factors.

hs2.PNG

Sorry to thread jack, Farfle :p
 
threadjack alert!
Sorry, i thought the voltages were you just playing with the calculator :oops: .

After digesting the #s a bit further I think your going to be running into saturation issues well before the motor starts delivering 28k watts of output .... Unless you have some better laminations than typicle...thus all that extra power on the controller side will be "cushion" The motor is only going to make as much out put as it can.....the rest will just cook the windings. How fast is up to you. will be interesting to see where the bmf starts kicking in & stabilizing the set up.

I chuckle when the guys running astro motors claim 14k watts out of the 3220 (for how long? on a 4.5kw rated motor?) Just cause they read it on the data logger...The continuos rating is far more realistic for any application where you run a battery through a full cycle.

I really would love to see what these blended hubbies are capable of on a dyno once all is said & done. Swaging it, I will guess you'll peak an out put # in the 12kw range...(& the only way to measue that is on a dyno) no idea on what to call it for continuous rating....depends on the application i supose.

OT.
Farfle, show us the chips flying off the lathe on your new stator support gizmo. I wanna see what 2 slices of magic pie will do!
 
Thud said:
threadjack alert!

After digesting the #s a bit further I think your going to be running into saturation issues well before the motor starts delivering 28k watts of output .... Unless you have some better laminations than typicle...thus all that extra power on the controller side will be "cushion" The motor is only going to make as much out put as it can.....the rest will just cook the windings. How fast is up to you. will be interesting to see where the bmf starts kicking in & stabilizing the set up.

I chuckle when the guys running astro motors claim 14k watts out of the 3220 (for how long? on a 4.5kw rated motor?) Just cause they read it on the data logger...The continuos rating is far more realistic for any application where you run a battery through a full cycle.

I really would love to see what these blended hubbies are capable of on a dyno once all is said & done. Swaging it, I will guess you'll peak an out put # in the 12kw range...(& the only way to measue that is on a dyno) no idea on what to call it for continuous rating....depends on the application i supose.

OT.
Farfle, show us the chips flying off the lathe on your new stator support gizmo. I wanna see what 2 slices of magic pie will do!
Click to expand...
I can put 15kw in and get 6.5 hp out lol.
 
In a perfect world, the stock Kelly 40k ellectrical rpms will only spin a 28 pole pr motor to 1428 rpms....
thats good for 110 mph in a 26 wheel...(89mph in a 20 inch rim) again, in a perfect world :mrgreen:

what is the norm on the monster hubs when measuring wheel rpms in a no load as compaired to on the track performance?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

fourbanger
Pack build: Sewer Pipe Dynamite Roll
Replies
2
Views
1,536
fourbanger
fourbanger
ridethelightning
repairing broken magnets/ hub motor magnet re-gluing
Replies
0
Views
1,614
ridethelightning
ridethelightning
L
Guide: fixing deadband of Wuxing hall throttle
Replies
3
Views
5,345
Firedog
F
ecat
Dual hubmotor powered trailer build
Replies
23
Views
7,548
eMULE2020
E
Kodin
Tank Bike - (Previously: Yet Another Genesis)
2
Replies
28
Views
12,172
Kodin
Kodin
Back
Top