made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
in the meantime, a petrol station would allow you to inflate them kick and high (maybe too high) 
How is your Chinglish lesson going ?
How is your Chinglish lesson going ?
Roadster E-Board Build (videos added 15/06/14)
- Thread starter daverobson08
- Start date
daverobson08 said:Pediglide - I hadn't even realised that! Now that I look at it, there is definitely a difference. Thanks for thatI think the tyres definitely need properly inflating. They seem to be difficult to fill up with a bicycle pump. I might invest in a digital compressor or just a foot pump.
Hey you're welcome. Your build looks like one of my build (except for the brushless and wireless system) that it's easy to chime in. I hope I don't sound annoying. Btw, get yourself one of those flexible tire valve extenders, it'll be easier with it to pump them tires......see I'm annoying.
daverobson08
100 W
Yeah I have one but it's a little too short to be useful. When I get chance I'm going to take the wheels to the petrol station for a proper inflation like made_in_the_alps suggested.
Today my grip tape arrived. I've been playing around with laser cutting it. I think I've found the settings to get a nice clean cut:
I quite like the honeycomb pattern which somebody achieved with their griptape -I can't remember who it was though. I think it's been done more than once before actually but it looks pretty effective.
Today my grip tape arrived. I've been playing around with laser cutting it. I think I've found the settings to get a nice clean cut:
I quite like the honeycomb pattern which somebody achieved with their griptape -I can't remember who it was though. I think it's been done more than once before actually but it looks pretty effective.
daverobson08
100 W
Finished laser cutting the grip tape and I have nearly finished applying it. I laser cut the pattern I wanted and used the negative as a stencil for applying the hexagons:
As well as the honeycomb pattern, I added a volt/electricity detail on the nose just as a little homage to the fact that this is an e-board. I think it turned out alright.
I kept the negative/waste grip tape intact so if anybody can make use of it then they are more than welcome to it. It is Jessup grip tape and measures ~9" wide. I'm happy to post it to the UK but any further away, I'd have to ask for a little contribution to postage costs
Today's job list is:
1. Finish trimming the edges of the grip tape
2. Prime the wheels and paint them white
3. If the wheels dry in time, take them to the petrol station to be inflated
4. Measure up for an aluminium enclosure
As well as the honeycomb pattern, I added a volt/electricity detail on the nose just as a little homage to the fact that this is an e-board. I think it turned out alright.
I kept the negative/waste grip tape intact so if anybody can make use of it then they are more than welcome to it. It is Jessup grip tape and measures ~9" wide. I'm happy to post it to the UK but any further away, I'd have to ask for a little contribution to postage costs
Today's job list is:
1. Finish trimming the edges of the grip tape
2. Prime the wheels and paint them white
3. If the wheels dry in time, take them to the petrol station to be inflated
4. Measure up for an aluminium enclosure
beto_pty
1 kW
Great idea and awesome way to pull it off...
looks really cool.. and the volt touch is genious..might start including that in my next builds
looks really cool.. and the volt touch is genious..might start including that in my next builds
daverobson08
100 W
@beto_pty - Cheers, feel free!
Small update today. I finished trimming the grip tape (haven't had to do that in years!) and I'm pleased with the result:
I also added wedged risers to the front and back trucks and put them the right way round. (Thanks to Pediglide for that one!) The new angles have definitely decreased the turning circle, it's still not as tight as I would like but I guess that is just the nature of longboards compared to street skateboards:
I got the wheels painted. Split the rims apart, primed, and painted them. Again, I'm happy with the result. Let's see how long they stay white though! :
The board in it's current state:
I had a little issue with the new motor position after adding the risers. The bell of the motor was too close to the deck and fouled it when turning the board. I got my dremel and sanding bit and removed as small groove. It just fits now. Perhaps shorter motors would be a wise idea next time.
I also got the wheels inflated properly. My cycle pump didn't work and the petrol station pump didn't work either but I got a foot pump with a locking valve fitting and that did the trick. The ride is much better now.
I took it out for another test ride and it was great fun and it got up to 16/18mph (depending on which app you believe). There was a lot of stopping and starting though because the batteries kept dropping off. It looks like velcro won't be good enough. The final job which will fix this will be to get the enclosure fabricated. Once that's done there won't be a lot left to do and I'll call this project complete. That being said, I'm sure I will move on to upgrading it/adding another motor/another 3s to take it to 9s (with a new ESC of course). All in all though, I'm pretty chuffed and I can't wait to ride it every day
Small update today. I finished trimming the grip tape (haven't had to do that in years!) and I'm pleased with the result:
I also added wedged risers to the front and back trucks and put them the right way round. (Thanks to Pediglide for that one!) The new angles have definitely decreased the turning circle, it's still not as tight as I would like but I guess that is just the nature of longboards compared to street skateboards:
I got the wheels painted. Split the rims apart, primed, and painted them. Again, I'm happy with the result. Let's see how long they stay white though! :
The board in it's current state:
I had a little issue with the new motor position after adding the risers. The bell of the motor was too close to the deck and fouled it when turning the board. I got my dremel and sanding bit and removed as small groove. It just fits now. Perhaps shorter motors would be a wise idea next time.
I also got the wheels inflated properly. My cycle pump didn't work and the petrol station pump didn't work either but I got a foot pump with a locking valve fitting and that did the trick. The ride is much better now.
I took it out for another test ride and it was great fun and it got up to 16/18mph (depending on which app you believe). There was a lot of stopping and starting though because the batteries kept dropping off. It looks like velcro won't be good enough. The final job which will fix this will be to get the enclosure fabricated. Once that's done there won't be a lot left to do and I'll call this project complete. That being said, I'm sure I will move on to upgrading it/adding another motor/another 3s to take it to 9s (with a new ESC of course). All in all though, I'm pretty chuffed and I can't wait to ride it every day
made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
thxs for the pics, that's lovely. you seem happy with those wheels, wish you luck for your enclosure :wink:
Well done! Great effort on the grip tape and the white hubs look better, looks like real mountainboard wheels.
Although...I'm not sure about them risers. You effectively lessen the leverage force of your board by putting on a narrower riser. You will feel a lot more squish side-to-side but it will not translate to turning.
I'd rather fancy a riser that is the same size/area as the octagon shaped top of the truck. The harder the material, the better. Or you could just remove them since you said the motor gets a bit too close.
Although...I'm not sure about them risers. You effectively lessen the leverage force of your board by putting on a narrower riser. You will feel a lot more squish side-to-side but it will not translate to turning.
I'd rather fancy a riser that is the same size/area as the octagon shaped top of the truck. The harder the material, the better. Or you could just remove them since you said the motor gets a bit too close.
daverobson08
100 W
Pediglide said:
I know what you mean, the leverage is definitely reduced. The octagon shaped top of the truck is actually larger than the deck itself anyway so there was already less leverage than the possible maximum. Maybe I'll try to make some larger risers which are the full width of the deck. I could make them thinner too which might stop the motor from getting too close to the deck like this:
daverobson08
100 W
I've now reached a bit of a roadblock. :? I've got the aluminium for my enclosure along with some panel mount XT60 connectors. I'll have to work out some way to make a panel mount JST connector but that won't be too difficult. I could make the enclosure for my current setup now but that seems short sighted because I plan to upgrade it to 8s in the very near future.
The advice I need is twofold:
Problem 1:
Which ESC should I get? I'm happy with the Toro 150A so far but it is only rated up to 6s. For 8s I'll need a new one. These are the possible options:
Turnigy Trackstar 1/5th Scale Sensorless 200amp 8s Opto Car ESC - £74
Have people had much luck with this ESC?
Alien 120A 2-8S Car ESC BEC Twin - £99
Can I use this ESC with just one motor until I get another one?
TURNIGY K-Force 70A-HV OPTO V2 Brushless ESC (UK Warehouse) - £42 - Heli ESC
Is 70A pushing it a little too low? Are Heli ESCs no good?
Turnigy dlux 80A HV Brushless Speed Controller (OPTO) - £47 - Heli ESC
Again, is the rated amperage too low? Are Heli ESCs no good?
Are there any others I should think about? I don't feel too keen on ordering two Flier ESCs from AliExpress but they do seem good - does anyone else in the UK fancy splitting the costs? :wink:
Problem 2:
I don't want to pay for an expensive balance charger to charge 8s at once but I want to be able to hook up the board and leave it charging without needing to switch around wires between charging batteries. Can I buy another cheap balance charger (upto 6s) and charge 2x3s batteries (6s) and 1x2s battery (2s) in the same circuit? This is my idea:
I have left out the balance leads to keep the diagram more simple. I don't think it would cause any issues adding them in. (Forgive my poor understanding of wiring diagrams)
The advice I need is twofold:
Problem 1:
Which ESC should I get? I'm happy with the Toro 150A so far but it is only rated up to 6s. For 8s I'll need a new one. These are the possible options:
Turnigy Trackstar 1/5th Scale Sensorless 200amp 8s Opto Car ESC - £74
Have people had much luck with this ESC?
Alien 120A 2-8S Car ESC BEC Twin - £99
Can I use this ESC with just one motor until I get another one?
TURNIGY K-Force 70A-HV OPTO V2 Brushless ESC (UK Warehouse) - £42 - Heli ESC
Is 70A pushing it a little too low? Are Heli ESCs no good?
Turnigy dlux 80A HV Brushless Speed Controller (OPTO) - £47 - Heli ESC
Again, is the rated amperage too low? Are Heli ESCs no good?
Are there any others I should think about? I don't feel too keen on ordering two Flier ESCs from AliExpress but they do seem good - does anyone else in the UK fancy splitting the costs? :wink:
Problem 2:
I don't want to pay for an expensive balance charger to charge 8s at once but I want to be able to hook up the board and leave it charging without needing to switch around wires between charging batteries. Can I buy another cheap balance charger (upto 6s) and charge 2x3s batteries (6s) and 1x2s battery (2s) in the same circuit? This is my idea:
I have left out the balance leads to keep the diagram more simple. I don't think it would cause any issues adding them in. (Forgive my poor understanding of wiring diagrams)
torqueboards
1 MW
I vote for the AlienESC 8S. For the price it's a great ESC and lasts a long time. You can use it with 1 motor as well - I did on the 12S ESC dual with 1 motor for probably over 200 miles. Works perfectly fine. I'm using dual 8s right now on dual 50s and it works well. The best features are the low height, % braking options and regenerative braking. Also comes with anti-spark, built in BEC and sensor wires if you wanted to sensor.
made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
Forget about Heli ESC unless you want to go brakeless,
As additionnal side note, I killed a "TURNIGY K-Force 70A-HV OPTO V2 Brushless ESC (UK Warehouse" on my e-scooter.
I would be going for the 200A turnigy trackstar since I am short on cash
As additionnal side note, I killed a "TURNIGY K-Force 70A-HV OPTO V2 Brushless ESC (UK Warehouse" on my e-scooter.
I would be going for the 200A turnigy trackstar since I am short on cash
daverobson08
100 W
Alien 8s is 7s? I don't understand :?
superpef
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2013
- Messages
- 126
Yeah, apparently if you charge an 8s fully the ESC will be in "safety mode". Anyway I just use it with 7s and I'm very happy with this ESC. I read somewhere that it shouldn't be used with just one motor but if torque didn't run into problems it should be fine right? I think for our application those are the best, mainly because of the flat construction and the abstinence of cooling fans.daverobson08 said:
made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
...said in other words :superpef said:
it also mean that you can remove the cooling fan of 150A+ car ESC since no one around here pulled more than 50A on a e-board (normal use) out of them ...yet
- also needless to mention that as per the "battery range" thread, the highest power consumption on a e-board range around 500W average 1000W peak (just my 2 cents)
I asked Bruno of Alienpowersystems about using the dual ESC with only one motor when I started building but he said it could demage the ESC. My guess is that since both 'brains' of the dual ESC will be powered and controlled while only one is connected to a motor, it could get complicated for the one constantly trying to spin a motor that does not exist.
daverobson08
100 W
Thanks for the input everyone, it's appreciated.
I have to agree that the form factor of the flat Alien ESCs is nice. The lack of a fan is also a definite plus. I'm a bit surprised that the 8s ESC will only work up to 7s though. Why is it rated 6-8s?
Does anyone have any input regarding my charging solution? I hope the wiring diagram is clear enough :lol:
I have to agree that the form factor of the flat Alien ESCs is nice. The lack of a fan is also a definite plus. I'm a bit surprised that the 8s ESC will only work up to 7s though. Why is it rated 6-8s?
Does anyone have any input regarding my charging solution? I hope the wiring diagram is clear enough :lol:
torqueboards
1 MW
I would go 2x 4S Batteries for 8S. You can easily get the iCharger 208B and a HK 350W Power Supply to charge up to 8S at 20Amps for about $150. It's definetly worth every penny. You can then use a joiner for the (2) 4S balance plugs and make your charging port. I think that would be a lot simpler than what you currently have going.
Personally, I find removing the batteries and charging in parallel to be easier or go the full route and install a BMS system to it.
Personally, I find removing the batteries and charging in parallel to be easier or go the full route and install a BMS system to it.
i was planning on using 4- 3s 5000mah lipo for my DUAL E-MTB and i made a wire harness with some switches that would let me charge the batteries with our every taking them out. im not sure as to whether the diagram is correct and i have never tried it yet still waiting on my order from hobbyking.
both pictures are the same circuit just one has no extra connectors.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41a68kvoov1gzbh/aWF-Kz8dbt
1)first i used a "X" harness to put 2- 3s 5000Mah in parallel to give me a 3s 10,000mah total.
2)then i ran one side of the "X" in series with the other 3s group to give me 6s 10,000mah to power the ESC.
3)the other side of the "X" runs the 2 groups of 3s in parallel to the charger so its like a 3s 20,000mah battery.
ok here is where im unsure: i know if i power the esc everything will be ok(no shorts...etc.) but when i charge it im not sure if the power will back up into the ESC as it is still connected and also the power will go through the series harness causing problems.
my possiable solution:
1)on the ESC side: i have the anti-spark on the black wire (negative) so i will be adding a small switch on that. i will also use a EC5 connector for a "KEY" on the main black wire. i will also add a bigger switch for the red wire of the ESC(doesn't have to be a "KEY" as someone posted there is only a "float" if you add a switch to the negative side).
2)on the series harness i will either add a another Switch or a "KEY" as im not sure whether this "float" issue will apply
like this everything will be disconnected while charging. i know its a lot of switches and such but it might even look cooler!
as for you dave, if you use just the 2- 3s batteries you could use my diagram just cutoff 1 leg of EACH of the "X" harnesses. but since your looking for a high power set-up maybe go with a ESC that could take 9s and add 1 more 3s to your harness and then you just have to cut off 1 leg of ONE harness. tell me if you follow!
im really young and don't have a degree in any thing, so im going on just what i know. if someone could confirm this and we are i business!
P.S. im working on a diagram of how it will look at the end with this harness switchs and such on the board. and i plan on doing a similar thing with the balance leads so i could hook one side up to a cell voltage alarm and the other to a charger.
hope it works!
both pictures are the same circuit just one has no extra connectors.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41a68kvoov1gzbh/aWF-Kz8dbt
1)first i used a "X" harness to put 2- 3s 5000Mah in parallel to give me a 3s 10,000mah total.
2)then i ran one side of the "X" in series with the other 3s group to give me 6s 10,000mah to power the ESC.
3)the other side of the "X" runs the 2 groups of 3s in parallel to the charger so its like a 3s 20,000mah battery.
ok here is where im unsure: i know if i power the esc everything will be ok(no shorts...etc.) but when i charge it im not sure if the power will back up into the ESC as it is still connected and also the power will go through the series harness causing problems.
my possiable solution:
1)on the ESC side: i have the anti-spark on the black wire (negative) so i will be adding a small switch on that. i will also use a EC5 connector for a "KEY" on the main black wire. i will also add a bigger switch for the red wire of the ESC(doesn't have to be a "KEY" as someone posted there is only a "float" if you add a switch to the negative side).
2)on the series harness i will either add a another Switch or a "KEY" as im not sure whether this "float" issue will apply
like this everything will be disconnected while charging. i know its a lot of switches and such but it might even look cooler!
as for you dave, if you use just the 2- 3s batteries you could use my diagram just cutoff 1 leg of EACH of the "X" harnesses. but since your looking for a high power set-up maybe go with a ESC that could take 9s and add 1 more 3s to your harness and then you just have to cut off 1 leg of ONE harness. tell me if you follow!
im really young and don't have a degree in any thing, so im going on just what i know. if someone could confirm this and we are i business!
P.S. im working on a diagram of how it will look at the end with this harness switchs and such on the board. and i plan on doing a similar thing with the balance leads so i could hook one side up to a cell voltage alarm and the other to a charger.
hope it works!
daverobson08
100 W
Thanks for the input everyone. That's a good idea BShady, it seems like cheap and simple charging solutions can be a little less than straightforward! I hope your method works.
I've decided to take a gamble on a Heli ESC (I'm hoping I can prove you wrong made_in_the_alps! :wink: ). I bought this:
Hobbywing FlyFun 100A HV + Programming Card
I've got a Turnigy 5A SBEC on the way from the International Warehoue and another 3s 8000mAh lipo pack taking my new battery config to 9s.
I think I have figured out a way to isolate each cell when charging and complete the circuit when riding using 4 XT60 connectors. This way I can parallel charge the packs while they are on-board. The JST harness will live in the enclosure and the whole setup should remain reasonably neat (I hope!)
If I fry the ESC on my first ride then it doesn't matter too much, I will just find another. I managed to pick this one up for £50 on eBay so it's not a huge loss
I've decided to take a gamble on a Heli ESC (I'm hoping I can prove you wrong made_in_the_alps! :wink: ). I bought this:
Hobbywing FlyFun 100A HV + Programming Card
I've got a Turnigy 5A SBEC on the way from the International Warehoue and another 3s 8000mAh lipo pack taking my new battery config to 9s.
I think I have figured out a way to isolate each cell when charging and complete the circuit when riding using 4 XT60 connectors. This way I can parallel charge the packs while they are on-board. The JST harness will live in the enclosure and the whole setup should remain reasonably neat (I hope!)
If I fry the ESC on my first ride then it doesn't matter too much, I will just find another. I managed to pick this one up for £50 on eBay so it's not a huge loss
galp
100 W
I recently bought two of those turnigy dlux HV. No problems so far. If you take care of esc there should be no problems. Just keep it cool and dry.
made_in_the_alps_legacy
10 kW
...not sure what you mean, i used this esc in the first version of my e-skate... (see in my built thread) it's now on my e-scooter, i have a spare one which might end up on a ebike, it works fine, i never got it warm, and not that expensive..daverobson08 said:
So... how are you going to brake now?
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