Shifter questions.

[Boyntonstu]

I want to limit the chairing to the largest gear.

The shifter will not lock nor will it pull the chain guide far enough to move the chain onto the largest gear.

I can cut away all the shifting elements and place the chain on the gear,

Is the chain guide necessary to prevent fall off?

If the chain guide is required, I will have to figure a way to force it into the correct position.


The rear shifter is not working, Broke. Dead!

I almost alway us the smallest gear so with that in mind the large chainging and the 11 tooth rear is pretty well lined up.

This is about the semi-recumbent.

AAMOF the chain is stuck on the rear gear and until I replace the shifter, I can live with it.

 

[izeman]

if you call the front gear shifter 'chain guide' then NO. it's not needed to hold the chain in place. why would it. if it's setup correctly it will not touch the chain at all but during shifting process. you would hear the chain grinding. so you can take the shifter off completely if you want to.

 

[Boyntonstu]

I disconnected the fron shifter cable and rotated the chain guide as shown here:

The rear shifter is a shifter without the F as seen here. Garbage.

High gear chain ring and high gear rear 11 tooth is way too high.

I need a few lower gears, so I will take the unused chainring shifter and bring it to the right side to shift a bit on the cassette.

That should do it.

I hope that I can now PA above 20 mph.

 

[dogman dan]

See those two screws on the top of the front derailleur? Those are the stops. one of them will allow you to move your front derailleur farther out to reach the large ring. Adjust so your derailleur will go out farther.

My favorite trick is to replace the front shift cable with a piece of baling wire. Clamp like the cable did, then push the shifter out to the big ring. Then bend over the baling wire through the cable end on the derailleur. Now you can remove the cable and shifter for the front derailleur. If you need to, you can unbend that wire anytime, and let the chain run on the lower gear. This is for limp home, when a battery dies, or other problems mean you limp home.

Same trick with the baling wire can let you use the low gears when needed on the back. This can unclutter your handlebars of all shifters, yet still leave you able to shift in an emergency.

But the best bet is what you are doing, move the rear grip shifter to the right side.

 

[Boyntonstu]

See those two screws on the top of the front derailleur? Those are the stops. one of them will allow you to move your front derailleur farther out to reach the large ring. Adjust so your derailleur will go out farther.

My favorite trick is to replace the front shift cable with a piece of baling wire. Clamp like the cable did, then push the shifter out to the big ring. Then bend over the baling wire through the cable end on the derailleur. Now you can remove the cable and shifter for the front derailleur. If you need to, you can unbend that wire anytime, and let the chain run on the lower gear. This is for limp home, when a battery dies, or other problems mean you limp home.

Same trick with the baling wire can let you use the low gears when needed on the back. This can unclutter your handlebars of all shifters, yet still leave you able to shift in an emergency.

But the best bet is what you are doing, move the rear grip shifter to the right side.

See those two screws on the top of the front derailleur? Those are the stops. one of them will allow you to move your front derailleur farther out to reach the large ring. Adjust so your derailleur will go out farther.

The screws did not work.

BTW The 10" longer wheelbase on this semi-recumbent gives a much smoother ride, even without shocks,

 

[dogman dan]

Ok,, your derailleur is broken then. Or the shifter cable is just that far out of adjustment. The thing is manufactured to be able to reach the outer gear.

You should be able to back out one of those screws, and then the derailleur will be able to move farther to the outside. Push it with your hand, if the cable won't pull that far, then tighten the cable.

Definitely, 10" longer makes the ride better. I love my longtails.

 

[Boyntonstu]

Ok,, your derailleur is broken then. Or the shifter cable is just that far out of adjustment. The thing is manufactured to be able to reach the outer gear.

You should be able to back out one of those screws, and then the derailleur will be able to move farther to the outside. Push it with your hand, if the cable won't pull that far, then tighten the cable.

Definitely, 10" longer makes the ride better. I love my longtails.

I trashed the shifter and the cable, I see many videos where they remove the 2 out of 3 innner rings to make it a single gear,

Too much work as far as I am concerned.

My favorite trick is to replace the front shift cable with a piece of baling wire. Clamp like the cable did, then push the shifter out to the big ring. Then bend over the baling wire through the cable end on the derailleur. Now you can remove the cable and shifter for the front derailleur. If you need to, you can unbend that wire anytime, and let the chain run on the lower gear. This is for limp home, when a battery dies, or other problems mean you limp home.

Good idea. It can also be done at the rear cassettte. I tried it yesterday. A screw adjuster is also possible, In my current setup using PA, I am 100% in high gears.

 

[dogman dan]

Yep,, with the baling wire trick, you can ditch both shifters and just lock the bike in high gear. When I removed the front derailleur, I found I'd occasionally have the chain jump to the lower rings on bumps. Shortening the chain some can help with that, but locking in the front with the wire so you still have a chain guide works real good.

And if you break down and need the lower gears back, you just re bend the baling wire to pick another gear, no tools needed.

 

[Boyntonstu]

Yep,, with the baling wire trick, you can ditch both shifters and just lock the bike in high gear. When I removed the front derailleur, I found I'd occasionally have the chain jump to the lower rings on bumps. Shortening the chain some can help with that, but locking in the front with the wire so you still have a chain guide works real good.

And if you break down and need the lower gears back, you just re bend the baling wire to pick another gear, no tools needed.

We think along the same lines. Incidentally the rear shifter cable on my long bike was about 8 feet long!

I went to a bike shop yesterday with my Day 6 semi-recumbent wheel and my 1,000 W hub motor wheel.

I wanted to exchange the rear clusters for $10 because the Day6 bike has 11 teeth and the Hub high gear has 13 or 14. Higher speed PA is the goal.

The bike guy said that he did not have the correct tool for the hub motor and after examination, he said that one was a free wheel and the other not; cluster vs cassette. (I may be wrong about the terms)

This video shows how to remove the freewheel from a hub motor:

[youtube]OAMV5BSHck0[/youtube]

Have you made changes to your hub motor gearing?

BTW this video is way out of the box thinking:

[youtube]phIYZp4-FR4[/youtube]

 

[amberwolf]

To see the differences between cassette andn freewheel, you can go to the Sheldon Brown bike info site, and ti has nearly everything you would ever need to know about bicycle parts and maintenance, failures, prevention, etc. (what it doesn't have it often links to, or gives enough info to find the solution with google).